HOW TO REDUCE CLEAR FOR SHOW CAR LOOK 

Brian from Paint Society?

yep, that's the one

It sure is thick. Thanks 👍

What reducer do you used with your finish 1?

​@mariopaintclass6091 I spoke with a rep at Sherwin Williams and he said fc720 was thin enough. He said reduce at your own risk. What reducer do you recommend for Finish1 fc720 with a medium hardner?

I’m happy to hear that man😇 glad it worked out 💪

Thanks for watching 🙌

🙌🙌🙌

Mostly 4:1 is thinner than 2:1

I do my best

What flash times do you do between coats of clear?

@@danielkondra107 Sherwin Williams is set up for 5-10 minutes flash but I've stepped up again using the cc200 and cc950 there more expensive clears and there 3-1 instead of 4-1

@@rongamble9884 so what tips do you have for spraying FC740? I’ve used 720 and I’ve changed my application technique, and flash times but it still dies back no matter what I do, looks perfect in the booth, 3 hours later it’s dies back a little and shrinks a little. For being $100 clear I shouldn’t be complaining but I want to get a clear to where I know it lays and dries good. I was thinking to try the 740 and see if that is better

@@sekaf4125 thanks ! We will both have to research this I’ve never heard of such a clear.

Thanks John👊🏽 yes some clear is already thin

First of all thank you for your support 🙌 I’m thrilled to know that my videos can be of use to you and your students. You are so right I do indeed need to protect myself better I will moving forward.

Lately I have tried it twice now I heat my clear up in hot water for a good 10 Min before hand unsure If it helps or not

@michaellareem4014 I boil the kettle and pour it into a bucket, then add the tin of clear into the bucket. I use the infrared thermometer to read the temp of clear before use.

@Mr.HondaMan same but wouldn't it cool down when sprayed ? Also do you let your clear and hardner catalyse once mixed? Or no need to ?

@michaellareem4014 I would say technically, yeah, but for it to flow out of the nozzle properly, the viscosity needs to be thin. When I was painting in around 15°C, I had the clear in the mixing cup, mixed with hardener at 25°C with bit of thinners and put into gun. Give a last tac rag before clearing.

Bad advice,,jus up ur pressure and decrease fluid on gun

Thanks

Thank you 🙏

Thank you 🙌

It's not the brand my friend. It's very important not to use a thick needle. My one is 1 mm. Reducing it's a must to have a perfect finish and much faster to buff if there are any small dirt on paint.

What temp is your clear sitting around before spraying?

MS clears have more solvents, so it could be too much atomization allowing the solvents to be lost in the air before getting onto the panel to allow flow out. It's tricky, but to get MS clear to flow out, the mils must be thicker before it starts to set. This is why some clears stay softer longer as designed like FC720 while others are meant to cure faster, like Nason 498-00, so they must be applied wetter. However, there's a thin line between wetted out and running. Get a spare panel and find the sweet spot for the clear you use. Once you find it, stick with that clear!

@@HondasAreNotForChristmas well it's about room temperature really..not cold,not hot,it sits in the garage

@@wtfftw24i'm using a 1.3 gun for everything,except filler ofc

Thanks🙌 I don’t have any videos on that sorry. I’ll try to make one in the future.

@@mariopaintclass6091 That sounds good, appreciate the reply.

Happy to help

@@shanewatkins5636 it’s paint reducer

Yes they reduce the clear. Also some use expensive clear coat.

That’s why you shouldn’t reduce it too much. Some people do 15 20% that’s too much.

@@toru_rose6564Hey, there’s nothing wrong with experimenting to see what works best. I’m still learning just like you. Sorry if I mislead you.

@@mariopaintclass6091 Okay no worries

Awesome angles right? the camera man was even advertising a paint suit

@@mariopaintclass6091 lmao. Best part

@@mariopaintclass6091 I figured Brian was behind that camera angle. Haha.

Nothing changed.

Welcome! I’m in Florida

@@mariopaintclass6091 I will get in touch when I’m out there. You got skills 👍🏽

I use to get those white air bubbles with this clear. It’s solvent pop. Try not to lay it down too heavy and give it sufficient flash time in between coats. I use to pile it on to get the finish I wanted but when I started reducing it it helped with the flow which means I didn’t have to pile it on anymore. Also make sure you have the right hardener for the temp.

@@mariopaintclass6091 I would get them in corners and inside bends. I’ll try reducing next time, thanks!!

Never heard of it. I’ll have to try it out tho

appreciate the reply heaps you and brian are such great teachers it means alot i cant seem to find it at all online probably is horrible stuff which wont be friendly and more then likely dry super quick or something crazy and dieback @@mariopaintclass6091

Ya man np

Hey man, I’ve never used thinner in my clear coat.

Take off the fluid cap completely catch it back on hold down the trigger and turn in fluid cap until you feel a push on the finger holding the trigger. Then turn it to 1/2. Wide open fan. 1.2XL TIP

@@mariopaintclass6091 Thank you, So 1/2 turn in from full. Sweet, ill play with it from there... Thank you and love the VIDS sir!

@@DIYSolarEnergy thanks for watching

Ask any question you might have

@@mariopaintclass6091 well here goes I’ve painted my truck 3 times now and almost the same issue it’s like chemical pop, boils. This last time I thought I had it figured out but not so lucky! The paint is single stage urethane from TCP global. It happens almost immediately I sprayed the bed and was working down the door and fender looked back and had a bunch of circles like fish eyes. The temperature was 70 and I’m using slow reducer. I’ve installed a cheap water and oil separator and a motor guard filter . My air lines come in the garage and go up n down the walls 4 times 6’ each time with drip legs and drain valves then to the regulator and filters. I’m using a Devilbiss pro lite 1.4 fluid tip and T20 air cap. One thing I’ve come up with is my cleaning method I spray and wipe down with 98% isopropyl alcohol then follow with Napa widow cleaner. I think that’s backwards should be window cleaner then the alcohol maybe. I just don’t get it I’ve painted several vehicles and never had so many issues! Another question I have is if I sand it smooth how smooth to spray with a clear coat would 800 grit scratches show in the clear. Thank you for any insight you can share I realize these thing are hard to diagnose not being able to see it.

@@timhudson8958 from what I’ve gathered here you have a stable set up at home and you have painted plenty time before n never had this issue. That rules out an airline problem, I know for that it has nothing to do with your paint gun, and you were using slow reducer in 70 temp which is ok. Now if I’m picturing this problem correctly I can say for sure it’s your cleaning method. I’ve experienced this before we use water based cleaner and solvent based cleaner I use to go solvent first and then water and as soon as I start spraying those rings would pop up. It looks as tho inside the rings the paint separates inside, correct me if I’m wrong. So what I did was I started cleaning with the water first and I use micro fiber towels one wipe one dry. N my problem went away. It’s like water is so strong that if it’s not dried properly before paint it reacts. Now questions for you. Have you used this particular brand of single stage before and have you always used your cleaning products the same in the past?

@@mariopaintclass6091 yes the paint I have used twice before but many years ago I don’t feel the product is the issue but with all the new VOC rules it may be more reactive and less forgiving. I’ve ordered a new water and oil separator from Eastwood a fairly nice one this time and will continue to use my motor guard filter as well. I will also change my cleaning practice . I’m going to sand it back down through the grits starting at 400 and ending at 800 will 800 grit scratches show in a clear coat?

@@timhudson8958 okay 800 grit won’t shop in clear coat

1.0 should already have it coming out fine

Reducer

16 to 24 hours this also depends on the type clear you use and temperature.

Paint reducer

No sir unless I have a wrinkle problem

Thank ya@@mariopaintclass6091

normally you never put any hardener in base..

how much hardener in the basecoat do you mix in? im having a wrinkle problem @@mariopaintclass6091

Actually, the hardener in the clear is what kicks the base coat to harden...

Sure!

Maybe a different brand

Sikkens

@@mariopaintclass6091 thank you

Don’t ever do that

@@mariopaintclass6091 you used reducer?

About time USA come out of the dark ages and moved to the metric system - it is just so much easier to work with

⁠@@krh007Yes we do use units of oz and mL in the States.

Think he meant multiply by .05 not .5

@@Abu_Idris Thanks that will be useful as I use small amounts of paint and clear.

Nope