Great video . It should definitely be about being comfortable so you will enjoy riding your bike . I'm 62 and after years of racing my back can't stand the slammed position for long periods , so I went from a 56cm to a 58cm and with a 100mm stem along with a straight seatpost instead of a laid back seatpost . I now ride a average of 200 miles a week comfortable . Or should I say , with a smile on my face !
Hi James - you've gone from a 56 to a longer 58cm frame but reduced the reach by up to 2cm by using an inline seatpost - methinks you could have stuck with the 56cm frame (which is lighter than a 58cm frame) and retained the seatpost with layback and still achieved the same net reach 🤔
What a great presenter! I could watch this guy for months. Just might - Just SUBSCRIBED! Thanks buddy. Truly one of the few videos that makes sense and is easy to digest.
I have a Trek Emonda SL6 that felt good, but got a little uncomfortable on longer rides...>40-45 miles. I flipped the stem over (90mm / 7deg) and WOW what a difference. I have ridden up to 50 miles so far and no problems! It's amazing the difference just a few mm's makes. Not to mention I saved $ by not buying a new stem.👍
Oh Gee 😢,, I went to the man cave and checked a couple of older bikes that I've built and rode for fun,😢 I wondered why they gave me pain😢,I've bought and had experienced bike fits done with one of my bikes, and ive tried my best to replicate the setups,...in my case these bikes that I've put together are just to big, top tub and seat tube just to long. I'm now looking for a new bike or possibly a modern steel frame with disc brakes and can except my custom 700 wheels ❤,my specialized Deverge Aluminum is 10 years old and has to much Flex (always did)😮. Thank you for your gracious support and sharing your knowledge. #Oldmancyclists ❤
This video helped me so much! I'm the exact opposite of the situation you described. I'm average height but my legs are shorter and my torso is longer. Most bike companies wanted me in a size 54 but that made for longer cranks, bigger frame with longer reach. I wound up going with a smaller [size 51] bike and the cranks are perfect for me as well as the reach issues. One problem I did have was the seat wound up being most of the way back to be correct. I ended up getting a new seat post to move the seat mount toward the middle of the post for better balance. I then went from the std 90mm stem to a 60 so my reach was in the right place. It's the first time I've ever had a bike that fit me 100% correct. What a difference this has made for me. Thanks so much for all your tips and advice.
Great video. I have to say that most bars I see are too wide for people, reducing the bar width can make a big difference on reach (and neck relief). (Coach did mention this but I think its something that not enough people look at). A lot of 'gravel' bikes now come with shorter stems (longer top tubes) but relaxed geometry. I have ridden a 110 on a Pinerello (51.5) (hire bike) and 70 on my Specialized Diverge (XS)
Love your humoristic motivational speech / video to adjust the stem length to ride more comfortable. I did road racing competition in my teens and later again in my thirties. Picked up my bike again last few years after 10 years and noticed i am not as flexible as in my teens and thirties. Strain in the shoulders, neck and head aches when riding more then 1 hour. I have a stem of 110 mm mounted. After this video i searched my old bike stuff and found a stem of 95 / 100 mm. I am going to mount that and try if it helps riding more comfortable. It is not easy accepting getting older! I still remember how i went all out, went deep, was good in cornering and aero position in races. But now my body just can not do that anymore. I have accepted riding not as fast and as far compared to when i rode competition. I now have to accept i also have to adjust my position on the bike to that of a little bit older man..... i am 53 now, rode competition from 10 to 15 years old and from 29 to 35 years old.
One thing i notice mostly missing from this vid is short reach handlebars. Much is said about compact drops but little about short reach. In my experience, you can use short reach bars and leave the stem alone also meaning handling is not affected. Great way to reduce effective reach.
as an almost 73yr old lifetime rider, and race car builder. I find it strange that no one seems to care about weight distribution. I am a little too heavy in my upper body, so need a longer frame to avoid having too much weight on the front. This makes the steering downright scary if I adopt a modern position. We vary carefully distribute the weight when we design a race or rally car to ensure the response is not too sharp or slow. All the tuning in the world cannot fix a chassis that has 60% of its weight at the front.
I laughed so much I have to watch it again to actually hear the advice! My chest is clogged so I've coughed the rest of the time I wasn't laughing. Great video!
I did the first test and could not even reach them with the my fingertips. Explains the shoulderpain I had riding the last 6 months... Thanks for the video :D
I received a replacement bike (frame) re a product recall. The recalled frame size was 56cm, whereas the replacement frame size was 56.5cm - this also coincided with me developing a long-term lower back injury. Fast forward a number of years and I'm now riding the bike (with 56.5cm frame) but had to make the following adjustments: (a) 90mm stem - which as Scott mentions, can make the bike feel wobbly at speed (i.e. 30 mph and above), (b) compact bars - meaning the hoods are closer and the length between hoods and drops is reduced, and (c) an inline seatpost. As a result of these changes, I've reduced the reach by approx. 5cm - meaning the bike feels good to ride. So yes, have made some compromises but for me, worth doing.
Thanks for this! I have a threaded quill & stem, so unfortunately adjusting reach will probably involve removing bar tape & controls and replacing the factory clamping stem with one with a clamshell handlebar attachment method and adjustable stem angle. I went for my first real ride on my road bike (96-97 Giant CFR 3, 55cm size) and I had ALL the problems you described. My hands started hurting after about 3 miles on the hoods, neck hurt from looking up, and I thought my groin discomfort was due to me just not being used to a road saddle. Oh, and to ride on the hoods, my arms were at full extension, no slight bend. It was MORE comfortable riding with my hands on the bar tape just aft of the controls, except my wrists were rotated down (as they had to be, unlike when on the controls). I've come to the conclusions that my controls need to be moved up a centimeter or so, and aft a few centimeters. I wonder if perhaps raising my quill up some would work. Hopefully the minimum insertion depth is a fair ways down.
A slightly 'too big' frame will give you a longer head tube and so a more sitty up relaxed ride if that's your thing, also if your frame is too small a long stem will pitch you forward, instead of a 20mm longer stem, go 10mm longer and get the saddle backwards 10mm to keep all the angles right
Thanks for this video. I bought a too big bike and went back to the store to change it for a medium sized. But was tricked by the store to keep the large sized one. They actually did all of the tricks you showed in this video and the bike felt better. But it's still too big. I understand now that they tricked me to stay with the L sized bike. I wish I had seen your post earlier.. Know I'll have to buy a smaller stem (probably an 80cm one).
We tackled assembling the bike as a family project. ru-vid.comUgkxzg0clhbtRf2gGxPkVETFKJJKGqdsorQu The package is heavy, but I have 2 teen boys that were able to move it. The written instructions were great- we didn't need to watch the videos, but it was good knowing that the option was there if we needed it. After we were able to get it set up, the boys each rode 3 miles and I rode 8 and the bike stayed quiet. The display is easy to reset, and you can put it on whichever setting you are using (time, distance, calories, etc). I will say that my butt is a little sore from the seat, but that could be because I haven't rode in a while. While it is comfortable for me, it was not comfortable with the seat position for my friend (could not move the seat back far enough and he slightly looked like a kid riding a tricycle that he had outgrown). He also said that the seat hurt his manly parts. We are going to look for a different seat that will be compatible with this bike for him.I did purchase the Wahoo Cadence sensor and strapped it to the crank of one of the pedals. This will sync with my Apple Watch, iPhone and will import data in to my Health app. Wahoo does have other sensors available other than cadence. I can also keep either my phone or my iPad on the display and they both feel pretty secure.
I just want people watching this to know that shortening your reach is NOT always the fix for back pain. I kept shortening my reach and raising my bars and it turns out that I actually needed to lengthen my reach and lower my bars. Went from a 80mm +6 degree to a 120mm -6 degree and road 60 miles without back pain for the first time in a very long time. I’m very long torsoed with short legs. So just keep that in Ming if you’re still having problems with shorter and higher bar position.
This is exactly the direct advice I've been looking for just found it 30 videos later :P I'm an odd shape/size but this video was the best to help me figure out if the bike I have is okay or I need to change the size.
I have the same issue. I gave the bike shop my height and they handed me a bike, without bike fitting. Did your mummy test and the hood is touching my fingers. Changing my seat post to a straight post (original is a reclining), and may be getting a new handlebar from 10 to 7cm reach. Hope that helps. Stem is already 9 cm, so cant do much there (or can I?). Have also improve my sitting position, thanks to your previous videos. Your video really makes a lot of sense compare to many others, great job, and thanks for all your priceless content.
Same issue here. I have just mounted a 4cm stem (It was 6cm on the brand new bike). I'll try with the new position. I'm 168cm with short legs (74,5) and long torso. My bike is a touring bike S size. Next thing is to put the handlebar higher.
My local shop did the same thing. If I remember, they wanted to sell me a 54 or56cm bike. Took it for a short ride. Then, I asked to try a 53cm bike. That is the one I took home. 5ft 9 and mid 60's, the smaller bike is so much more comfortable. They wouldn't even try to do a bike fit until I bought a bike first. They would make it fit me or me fit it. No good reason to use a local shop when I can do the same thing for myself and purchase online. Repair service is also only if you pay so that objection to online goes away also.
This is interesting , I feel like marketing of endurance bikes being more comfortable because of higher stack and shorter reach, is just that , marketing!
Been using 70mm stem for months now since the top tube on my bike is a bit long for me, works well and actually improves my cornering, i think i might even go with 60mm next.
Good video, very interesting, but I don’t seem to see any videos in this much detail for your average cyclists using hybrid bikes for commuting or leisure. If anyone knows of a good one and can post a link in a reply this would be ideal
My current frame is an Avanti endurance size 53. It is very difficult to find larger frames in Asia. To avoid being spat off it at every turn, and not able to afford to change it, I machined a spacer for the bottom headset bearing. this lifted the front end, changed the geometry enough to move my c of G back prob 20mm. And of course made the steering more docile. Downside is my hip angle is too cramped now, this limits post ride beers ! For mature riders having your bum above your head is not ideal, but modern geometry and dogma kind of forces on you. Compact bars are a mystery to me ! The drops are useless.
I have a Ridley Noah Fast. Gr8 bike, maybe a wee bit big. Problem is the AeroNomic stem-bar combo is fixed at 110mm & 40 cm, respectively. Other than shelling out >400 quid for new bar or pushing the saddle too forward I don’t have any option, do I? Vids are awesome (and funny!)
Does it work with gravel bikes? Or only road bikes? I have a “neck problem” on my Gravel even after a 400 km (in total) it hurts after riding :( P.S. switched from MtB
I'm 169cm with leg length 80,7cm. Riding old canyon endurace in XS size with 165mm cranks. I suppose I have short torso, so I put saddle more in front position - tried 80, 90, 100 and 110 stems. Still have doubts - when I do mummy test - 90 and 100 seem OK. But I fail falling test - OK, I have nice belly (every month smaller), but suppose that also the short cranks could not give me a good support point and I feel slightly falling :(
Is the Ridley grifn allroad aluminium frame with 105 a good beginner bike? Also for one total new to road bike is the Shimano r550 or whats its called pedal good enough? Im very afraid to maybe not being able to clip out when stopping and falling over. Also ridley site says im xs but a bike shop says small since thats what they have inn. If i was 3cm bigger that makes me go to small. Should that little make a big difference?
I need an advice on buying a hardtail X-Caliber 9 2022 with a dropper seatpost in XL size but I'm 182 cm tall. I tought I'd replace the 90mm stem with much smaller one 35mm. I hope that way the bike would be much more nimble and fit my size. It's an opportunity because it's a really nice bike but it's a previous year model that's on a huge discount. I'd take a 35mm stem with me to try it out first. I wanted to see what are your toughts.
Hey, coach. Mostly this year I have been going MTBING but when I get back out on my road bike I have an awful feeling with the break’s and traffic around me. Any suggestions. Loving your work. Keep it up 👍. Derek
That’s a shame Derek, sorry to hear. Maybe try and stick to cycle paths or go out at quieter times. Maybe start with short cycles on loops close to home and just build up confidence?
Coach! Whats your take on a frame just a bit smaller can make it longer but a frame that is bigger cannot make it shorter. Will it ever feels right if the frame is a bit smaller or bigger than the “right” frame? I also wonder if shorter rider will most likely need zero offset seat post to fit them on the bike properly. Also why is it some rider wants to have more forward position vs than being on the back end position? Doesn’t change the centre of gravity of the rider on the bike?
I bought a spin bike, an ICG (German) and I am a 5'5" female. I feel like my arms are straight and I am maxed out reaching despite. having the handlebars as close to me as possible. There doesn't seem to be any way to change it. Any ideas on how we can McGyver a spin bike that should fit most people but isn't perfect? I had numbness down my leg. :(.
Is there any to increase the height of the bars? I am guessing you have moved saddle forward but I don’t have any experience with this bike I am afraid.
great videos and very good advises, finally I got my position right and really enjoy cycling now. Seems my bike a little bit oversized for me (short arms) and i ended to use 420 handlebar (instead of 440) and 70mm stem.
im 5'7" on a TREK Domane SL6; I'm torn between a size 54 vs 52 bike. I thought a 54 would give me a more relaxed upright comfortable ride than a 52 bike, but I am having pain between my shoulder blades and hand/arm numbness. On mummy test, I land at beginning of my fingers. Any advice would be helpful! I can return my 54 bike within 30 days & I am on day 20. Store recommends just swapping our handle bars for a closer hood.
Hey Coach! Thanks for this video. So I’ve been having problems with knee pain on my right knee. I tried everything - professional bike fit, inserts, spacers, cleats… nothing worked. And then I lowered my stem by 5mm and now the knee pain is gone, but now my shoulders seem to get sore. Is this just something I need to get used to, or do you have any suggestions?
Hi there, thanks for the this as this is just what I have been working on, and also from you last video. So just went from the stock 42cm bar to the same but 38cm bar, bight5and day better, I slot in place great now wrists relaxed and doesn't feel like I'm hugging a huge bus steering wheel. Huge difference in better head movement too. However after a little while my pain bottom of neck middle of shoulder still present after a 1.5 he albeit slightly reduced, and since failing your reach test there Quite significantly I think I'm gonna try out an 80cm from 100mm stem now, if this is correct thing to do will saddle position etc still be fitting. 1 last thing I also consider different prime aero bars as felt some 1s and hand just sit nice on tops and look cool, I'm thinking would they also solve my issue as they say on handle bars that reach is 80mm compared to again 100mm on the others 🙄!? Like you say I just wanna ride more gradually Thanks again Jon
Flipped my stem to the 'viagra' position, and that seems to have helped shorten my reach to hear perfect. I don't love how it looks, however. This is stupid, I know. I have a currently have a 120mm stem with 6-degree angle. So by flipping, I changed the angle on the bike by 12 degrees. Do you think a 100mm (w/ 6-degree angle) stem in the non-viagra position would accomplish the same thing reach wise? I have the flexibility, so body position is not the issue.
Whats the most adjustment on hood levers ? 0 is fine? My mechanic put it on 1 and its still little harder to reach ı have 8cm stem . Can ı go shorter to 7?
I've been riding a 58" frame cannondale for months on trainer can't do more than 1 hour with issues, recently put my outdoor bike on trainer which is a 58 and has made it alot more comfortable, 58" was supose to be a good fit for my 6ft height, but I had to have a 70mm stem to make reach work and still very uncomfortable, is there we can know when we hole on bike if its too big or small quickly? I guess seat position matters when you test reach too
Question sir..I have been riding 100mm stem on gravel bike. My MTB i recently switched from 90mm to 80mm. My neck is really bothering me,especially on left side near middle of my cervical spine. What stem length is considered “to short.”
Hi, for 172cm, 79cm inner leg ,what size you would say could use, 52cm or 54cm. According to manufactur could use both, but 52 is 400mm handlebar and 170cm cranks, and fe 54 420 and 172cm so also its a bit difference there. Stem difference its 90 vs 100 Thx for the help
This may be true in some cases, but I don't think it's the whole answer. It's not just a matter of reach. You can fix reach, but then be all scrunched up. The geometry of bikes has changed for the worse since the 80s for many people. They are either making bikes too race oriented, or designing them for short legs compared to torso length. I'd bet most tall Caucasians with long legs are have problems with bike geometry today. They need a very different geometry than most other people in the world. Long legs make the seats very high compared to the handlebars.
🤭😂 love this man))))) Thanks 👍 I remember (a year ago) that to build "my" cockpit size with road handlebars on mtb bike frame and to reach hoods like you show I was forced 😂 to turn the stem backwards of its usual position...You can imagine the look of the cockpit from the side)))))) but feels soo natural, like all my bikes with such cockpit size (I have been building all my bikes both mtb AND road according to Lee McCormack theory for 4 years approximately and they all really feel nice and spot on).
Just moved here from another yours video,and i have 54cm frame big for me,and have short 80mm stem and saddle height less and moved foward a litle and feell better than on my past 50cm frame ,1.70cm, thank you coach ,you make me feel better now 😁
Coach, I'm 71" in height with a 33.5 inseam and say normal arm length. Very interested in purchasing a Cervelo Aspero. Would a 54 be adjustable for fit than a 56cm? I've been told the Aspero fits a bit large. Thanks for the informative content.
When I was racing it felt that I was "bunched up" on a 13, so I changed over to a 14. Since retiring from racing, 6 years ago, I've lost some flexibility, so I went back to a 13 cm stem. I tend to ride a 59cm frame, with a 58cm top tube.
