How to Regulate a Seiko Automatic Watch - 7s26, 4r36, and 6r15 Seiko Movements 

I must have really gotten lucky with my 7S26 movement. It's 20 years old and never serviced, Been on several deployments all over the world and never leaves my wrist. It might loose about 2-5 seconds a week. I'm no watch expert but all the videos I've seen that's pretty damn good.

Great video. I used to do this with my Monster but without the timegrapher which was VERY difficult. I ended up messing up the time completely, so I gave up and took it to my watchmaker, he LITERALLY took one minute to regulate it. He gave it back to me said it should be within a couple of seconds a day, and didn't charge me anything. The watch was +1 second a day until I sold it. In a month, I took all my watches to him and asked if he would be willing to do it for them, but this time to charge me. He laughed and agreed on the price of about one coffee per regulation 😃

This video is one of the best ones for setting a watch. First, set beat error ! Many videos on the net say not to touch this, and they are wrong. Beat error must be as close as possible to zero ( for me, 0.5 ms is the maximum allowed, and anything between 0.0 and 0.2 ms is fine ). The problem is that there are no indications of the direction to take to modify the lever position ! So you need patience and repeated testing before tuning it right. Then, secondly, go to the other lever to regulate speed, this is easier because of the indications + or -, or A and R ( Avance Retard ) or F and W ( Fast or Slow ). All this must be done with frequent back and forth operations to the timegrapher. What the tuto does not say is that all this must be done on at least two or three positions of the movement ( horizontal and vertical ). Therefore fine tuning of a mechanical watch fitted with the two levers can be a rather "long" work, but worth it. My only criticism to this video is that images are sometimes not perfect, but this is a minor problem : it is done with intelligence, that's what counts ! Congratulations !

On an elderly 7009 movement I made my adjustments by ultra-light "tappings" on the little lever rather than actually pushing it. With pushing, you need to overcome the slight stiction of the lever's friction, leading to it letting go and allowing too much travel. These tiny taps moved it so little that I was convinced I wasn't moving it all. Don't have a timer as per your demo so I was doing it the prehistoric way by setting and observing the result. Takes time, and lots of patience..

I just got a Timegrapher and this video will be very helpful as I have 2 Seikos I need to regulate. Wish me luck it’s my first try. Thanks so much 👍🏼

Thanks so much for this vid. Just regulated my SRP779 from +51 s/d to +5 s/d, beat error +11 to 0.7

A friend of mine and his more experienced brother were digging a ditch to get the right grade for laying a sewer pipe. At one point, my friend said, "There. That should be good enough." His brother replied, "No. If we settle for 'good enough,' it will not work quite like it could. If we do the very best that we can do with it, it still won't be perfect but then it will be good enough." This video reminded me of that story. I may give regulating a try.

Got a three way watch back remover, used your method to just regulate time keeping, not the beat error, but using the stopwatch off an iphone, took the watch in two moves to plus 9 seconds per day from minus 90 seconds per day. Thanks.

Really well done sir ! You did a bang up job, taking your time to explain small tangental subjects and then bringing us back for the meat and potatoes !! Super informative and I wouldn't hesitate for a second (pun intended) in doing this myself after watching this !!

Thanks. This helped first time I did this to a NH35A. I learned the hard way to have one of my 5 positions be -1 or -2 spd and the others be +.

Excellent video! The pace and conversational style were very enjoyable. Also thank you for taking the time to get your camera angles dialed in, the visibility was definitely good enough to get a sense of your technique.

When I regulated my 7s26 I placed a small screwdriver on the other side of the adjustment arm so it acted as a stop, that way I could make tiny adjustments without worrying about going to far. It's running at +1 sec per day at the moment.

You guys are amazing, I once did a minuscule beat adjustment on a 7S26C and it caused a noisy beat never to be recovered. Also for the hobbyist needing to replacement parts - Problems are you cannot buy genuine balance spring assemblies & escape levers so this watch is scrap and I've learnt to live with how they operate ex factory 🏭 and now just enjoy as is as you need way more watch making skills than a hobbyist could ever learn when unexpected things happen. So you that have skills & knowledge 👏 you are amazing!

Fantastic tutorial. You have the ability to pass knowledge thoroughly and crystal clear like a highly regarded tutor. It's a pleasure to watch your video productions and follow your detailed guidance on the bench. Amateur horology is a very interesting hobby and I'm glad that there are people like you that inspire us and give us the motivation to keep going and further delve into the complicated wonderland of the mechanical watch craftmanship! Thank you so much.

Thanks so much for this instructional video. Your attention to detail and calm concise steps are so much better than the other watch/ used car sales men techniques used by other " experts " / internet watch sales men, that post watch information videos. Well done and again, many thanks.

A very well done tutorial by far the best I've seen. I like how particular you are with everything. I feel confident to try this myself now.

In contrast to some other people who complained about it I found all the context and setup you provided to be very useful. I see now why I would not attempt this without a grapher, and I appreciate how my new 007 will need observation over a period of time.

Thanks! I managed to regulate my SNK393 to to +5 with a beat error of .1. It had a beat error of 2.5ms and was running at -36 after dropping it on the floor like a dope. It's more accurate now than before the drop. This was first attempt at regulating a watch and I just bought my new Weishi 1900 last week. So happy I bought it when I did.

thank you philodendron! This video - if nothing else - provided a greater understanding how to regulate a 007/09 - appreciate it!

Most comprehensive tutorial I’ve seen on this subject. Thanks. Great you had a macro lens. I regulated one of my Seiko 5s’ 7s26 to within 2s a day a few months ago using the same timegrapher but now for some reason it is running 25s/d fast (I think shock must have moved the timing lever a bit). Annoying. Will try again using your flattened cocktail stick method - scary if you slip though. Shame there isn’t a tool that you can safely lock around the lever to prevent slipping though.

Wonderful video! Regulating is so underrated for a 30min job

Thank you for the regulating lesson!

Great tutorial. I have a "5" with 7S26. I haven't worn it for quite a while and had just picked it up this week. It's off (ahead) by almost a minute a day and the lever as seen from the glass back, is quite close to the far end of the + sign already. I haven't ordered a time graph machine yet but an Android app shows that I'm in between +42s to +70s per day with beat error of 4ms. It's quite consistent with what I observed. I have some tools that can open the watch. I'll keep wearing the watch for another 2 weeks before starting to try calibrating it. Anyway, thanks!

I must be the luckiest SOB in the hobby. I’ve built about three dozen watches (NH35 & NH36’s) and all of them kept good time, good enough for me anyway. Then I built one about a month ago and it was gaining about 10 minutes in 24 hours. People said it was beyond help but I figured I had nothing to lose so I opened the Watch up and noticed that the regulating tab/handle was all the way up in the go fast position so I adjusted using the seat of the pants method. I moved the tab clockwise just past the zero mark. I let it run for 24 hours and it was keeping perfect time. Saved myself about $150 on a timegrapher.

Well done! Your video is clear and complete. Now I know why I should never try this at home. 😬

i have my grandfather's seiko watch and i didnt wore it for how many years, but when i wore it today,it only move if i touch it but if not,it stops working.thanks for this video now i know what to do :)

When adjusting the BE and R, I do it with the watch sitting on the time grapher. I make my gradual adjustments and let the beat settle for about 5 minutes then check results. Also make sure to always fully wind the movement before starting to make adjustments.

EXCELLENT video. Thank you. Very informative.

Excellent video! You have described the process so clearly that now I want to get a timegrapher and try this!

Brilliant vid loved it so informative I have the seiko 53kx 4r36 movement and this vid educated me on how the regulation works brilliant I know how the watch works and this vid makes the regulation of the time make perfect sense as a result I have subscribed to the channel.

Excellent, enjoyed that quite a bit ! Getting a Timegrapher ! Thanx

dielectric grease works on the gaskets... tiny bit on index and thumb, swirl your fingers together and then run the gasket through, it will apply a thin coat and should be good!

My new 4r36 5sports Seiko is running + 7 seconds per day out of the box. I’m tempted to leave it as is. But maybe after a couple months il try to regulate.

Great video i truly enjoyed

My 7s36 use to run -30s a day consistently kinda slow but consistent but now its running-50 seconds slow a day and its only 2 years old I'm gonna have to regulate it myself or take it somewhere it's my everyday work watch wich I suspect has taken to many beatings at work. Now my newer 4r36 is running +7sec consistently way better than my old 7s36 I think the new movements are better so far. Great video

Easy way to adjust the timing would be to leave the watch on the work bench to stop working before adjusting to save catching the balancing wheel ,,, cheers Shane uk 🇬🇧

Thankyou for a great overall video ...very informative 👍

Great tip on the electrical tape

Thanks. Found a cheap watch that is running fast ​so I might give it a go! Cheers.

I have a hand wound Seagull St36 and it's reliably fast at plus 20. I have an Omega 266 from 1954 hand wound which is plus 5 sec per day. I have a Seiko 4r39a which is spot on. My F67 Orient Bambino V4 is +10 seconds per day whether I wear it or not.

Thank you!

Thanks for the info! Very helpful!

You have a new sub! that was a very thorough well explained tutorial. I have all the last tools arrive today and now going to attempt to regulate with confidence, This is the second time watching and the third time will be during regulating..

Thanks for the video. When I got my Vostok, out of the box it was gaining 30 seconds a day, which drove me nuts. I decided to get some (really cheap) tools and tried regulating it. Was surprisingly easy, considering I don't have a timegrapher. Took a couple days to find the best rate (with reference to the time on my phone), but I got it down to about +10s/day. I think it's something pretty easy that any watch enthusiast can do, just be a little careful and patient. Obviously I don't recommend opening up a Rolex, but if it's a Seiko 5, I think it's worth a try

Vostok Amphibia are easy watches to regulate and the gasket doesn't need replacing due to its special caseback design.

I really enjoyed learnt more about what is involved in getting your watch ready for regulating,than by reading about it. A very good interpretation of all that's involved in doing this adjustment. 5 Stars Sir

I appreciate the detailed explanation!

Hey man, thanks for the video, watched your video and Long island watch's video on regulating your watch. I don't have a time grapher and was planning to do it in minute increments and slowly adjust it over the next several weeks. But since you said that there are apps for measuring the beat, I decided to try it out. I managed to adjust it to -1 sec/day, I know that this won't be an accurate representation, at least I have an idea. So for the next week I'll try to keep a good record of how much I'm gaining or losing. Thanks for the video once again... Cheers!

Nice tutorial. Among these 3, which do you think is best?

Very informative video. I’m going to work on my Seiko samurai this weekend. I’ll make a video on my channel to document my experience

Sir I admire your works. It reminds me of my grandfather job..Sadly he's gone last year. Those knowledge not fully shared to me. Anyway thank you for sharing your idea. Keep on posting sir. So by the way what's the difference between 7s26A and 7s26c?.Will the main assembly match each other?

Great Video, thank you.

Great video buddy!

Best video on this I’ve seen. You know your stuff. Unrelatedly I think you have bad myopia like I do. My refraction is -10 in glasses. Very few ppl as bad as me. :(

I bought a vintage seiko 7s26A that uses to gain 1 hour in a night. So I tried to regulate it.... Now it gains about 4 hours and half per day!! 👍🏼 But I've found the solution: SPEND MONEY! I'm going to buy another movement hoping it will nail, at least, the day!!! ahahahaahah

awesome video.

great video, thanks

I’m left handed and wear my watch on my right wrist, so my watches rest in the crown up position often when my arms are down by my side.

Good tutorial. Just thinking that if the watch is, for example, originally running -13 seconds on the wrist and -10 seconds in the dial up position, then wouldn't you want to regulate it to +3 seconds in dial up position? That would account for the slower running time while it is on the wrist versus the period when the watch is "resting" at night off the wrist (when it runs slightly faster). I guess an easy way to find out is to first regulate it as best as possible, then wear it and measure after a couple days, and then regulate again to be even more precise.

Precision vs accuracy... You were spot on. Do you have a physics/engineering background?

GREAT VIDEO !!!! THANKS VERY INTERESTING

I set a 7S26 to within -4 s/d without a time grapher, just by adjusting then checking it after 4 hours, and it took about 3 to 4 weeks to get it done. That watch gave me just about 10 years of solid performance so I just got another, once it started to slip again, and said to myself ''You know, $7/yr for fairly reliable accuracy is a good deal''. Out of the box, each was 4 to 6 s/d (fast, in my case), initially. Once I realized it was going to end up 1 minute behind every week, I did the math and found it's just best for me to replace them every 10 years because servicing (especially paying for it - cleaning, lubing, etc) just isn't worth it. I've made mistakes in life that cost me $70,000 because I couldn't, without a watch, tell the difference between 14 minutes and 15 minutes. Never again. I'm a Seiko fanboy for life at $7/yr, and everyone else should be as well, period.

What if you get a hair into the hairspring? Probably good to wear a hair net...in your case, a beard net. Excellent video quality. maybe use a telephoto lens on your camera and feed it to an HDMI display. The camera and lens can then be a foot or more from the watch and out of your way! Great video!

Handsome watchmaker...

Thanks for the video, it was helpful. If, however, I were to have the watch pressure tested after regulating it I would rather the watchmaker do the regulating as well.

I've regulated a few movements and my issue involves reinstalling the caseback. I can get things darned near perfect on the timegrapher, but that gets thrown out of whack when I tighten down the caseback. And, I'm not torquing it down with gorilla strength, either. So, that creates even more trial and error which is frustrating.

Most watch movements are slowed down when worn and in any angled position (other than dial up) because of the higher friction in the gears and bearings. Thus I rather adjust them to be at about +10 s/d in dial up position, so the watch doesn't start to lose time when I wear it longer. Usually I wear a watch (sometimes two at a time) for only about 4 to 6 hours a day.

By the way great video, interesting ,, have you made a video explaining how you use the time machine ,,,grapher thanks thumbs up 👍

Normally the accuracy and precision of things is very important to me, but for some reason my automatic watch being off 10 or 5 seconds a day does not bother me at all. Thanks for the video, it was very interesting.

I purchased a Seiko 5 Sports Automatic SRPG29K with a 4r36 movement in Australia in February 2023 and the world should know that this watch lost seven minutes in the 24 days of the first month of ownership. I advised the Seiko Australian supplier Linda and Co that the watch was faulty. They replied that it met the specifications so no warranty. Think about that before investing in a Seiko watch.... Robin T 28-March-2023

7 second difference in the vertical positions. That's pretty tight poising. The vertical positions do run a bit fast compared to the horizontal though. consider opening up the regulating index by turning it's etachron adjustment clockwise a bit. Also you want to wind the watch fully before you do any regulation. On this movement you can wind it up manually by turning the screw on the ratchet wheel(on top of barrel) a full 8 turns clockwise.

Very Nice vídeo

what happens if the beat adjustment gets in the way of the other adjustment?

I use a timing app. I have to get a timegrapher for my beat error now. I have a few watches that keep changing on the accuracy, so I need to get that beat error right on them. I have been needing one, but have been putting off getting it.

It makes me wonder , if wearing the watch and doing very physical activity wouldn’t alter the timing adjustment? Cheers Shane uk 🇬🇧

My regulator set to minimum still running fast

Nice discussion, camera angles, and clarity. Question about watch placement on the timegrapher. Do you loosely replace the case back when checking the error/rate in the face up position, or is there a way to place it on the holder so not to touch the movement with the case back removed? Looking to get a timegrapher in the near future after frustrating attempts using an earbud mic and phone app. Thanks for the clarification.

Very informative. I have an SKX007 that I will probably try to regulate myself in the future. I'd need to obtain a timegrapher and tools first for doing so, but I'm also curious if the watch doesn't need more professional attention. Right now with consistent wear it loses 1 full minute a day, and it's a secondhand watch (serial places it between 2004 and 2014, though I'm inclined to believe it's a 2014 based on overall condition). Might be worth playing with to see if I can tighten up that timing and if it seems like there is an issue with the movement, maybe I'll just spring for an NH36.

I set the lever to minimum, but the clock still gains considerably ... one minute per hour. the movement is a Seiko nh35. any advice? thank you very much

Best tool to open a watch is a ~10cm rubber ball. I tested it and real works fine.

Do you know if 4R35 and 4R36 movements have plastic parts?

How did the watch adjustments work out over the long term? Did it coincide with with you readings?

great vid, Guy - and it was two hard t believe it went that fast years ago. I have Seiko divers and Monsters and I am pissed off at Seiko QC - makes me look at Hamilton for a similarly priced alternative brand.

IMO the 4R movements runs a little better and is more robust that the 7s movements. I am new to the watch world but from what I can gather the 4R is a slightly better movement. Change my mind. 😆

Hi, in skx when i close the cashback the waterproof it is like before?

just the video I needed :) I kind of want to regulate my Orient, but wasn't sure if it's worth it. Question - would opening the back seriously compromise the water resistance? I'm not a pro diver or anything, but I would like to be able to wear the watch without worrying of getting it wet.

si,estoy de mi 7s26c hasta los cojinetes. martillazo y santo remedio.

I thought one lever was for minor adjustments and the other was for 'bigger' adjustments? Is that not the case? (I don't know the answer - that's why I'm asking) If you adjust the beat error, does that not effectively correct the timing by default?

Just wondering if the watch stayed accurate after this regulation.

Ive just bought a seiko 5sports with 7s36..and after one day of running is gaining 2.30minutes day.. Do yoi think can be adjusted with this metod?

No software version for that using a microphone?

Mine Seiko monster 7s26 first gen no matter how to adjust the wheel balance spring go positive sign and negative and observed but still it will go advance for 2 seconds per minute...

I just wanted to share something. I have an ORIENT AUTO and its possible to synchronize it with a CASIO A-168. But theres a technique, you dont use a BEAT ERROR of close to ZERO. Instead use a BEAT DEVIATION of 1.2ms. Then DIAL UP --> RATE ERROR should be +20sec/day. The problem with a BEAT DEVIATION of approx. ZERO is that the loss or gain will add up, in about a week you have to re adjust your watch. On this method you will loss and gain it doesnt add up. My ORIENT is synchronized in minutes with the CASIO for a year now (no adjustments made).

I might add: If you don't have the movement fairly well wound up, the readings won't be good. I sometimes grab a watch which only has a little power in it and put it on a timegrapher. (When I realize why the readings are so bad, it's always a relief.)

I think it's hard for most watches to be 'precise'. How much it gains/losses time per day really depends on the various positions the watch is left at and for how long a period of time in those different positions. This is due to gravity, and I don't think Seiko movements can overcome that problem with its 2 levers. I know Rolex has tried to overcome this by adjusting its balance wheel by placing weights on the balance itself, the idea here is much like balancing the wheels on our cars. These weights on the balance wheel are essentially screws which, if say, loosened, will make the balance wheel heavier at the point of the screw; and vice versa. And Rolex regulates their watches at 8 different positions. Now, after I complained to them that my Rolex is not accurate, they kept it for a month to service & regulate it. Even after all that effort, it 'usually' gains 2 seconds a day. And after 30 days, I would hack it for a minute to sync with the correct time again. Strangely, after that, it starts to slow about 2 seconds per day. Leave it for a few days to wind down, then wind it up and wear it again, it returns to gaining 2 seconds a day. I wouldn't call this behavious 'precise'. So as far as Seiko movements go, how do we find the true 'average' beat error and rate differentials. Say we note that it runs 10 seconds fast per day, but then while on the timegrapher with the watch faced down, it says rate is -15 seconds. Assuming, for now, that beat error is 0, do we simply adjust rate to -5 seconds? And if beat error needs adjustment first, then I'm totally lost as to what I should do. Maybe we should simply stick to 1 position (usually face down), adjust it and live with it; and say, "Hey, at least my watch doesn't need a battery!" I mean, it's gravity we're trying to overcome.

@JustBlueFish - I bought a 7S26 which has been fine for a couple of years since I bought it. It was a fresh-modded version. The movement is from 1996. It just recently started gaining 15mins per day. Its increasing now to 20mins a day! I don't understand why this is when it was working fine. Any help is appreciated

I think regulating a watch should be the final process after the movement has been cleaned and lubricated. As soon as you open the case you are giving contaminants the opportunity to get into the watch. Also water/dust proofing gaskets should be replaced. If it’s a cheap watch then fine, if it has a better quality movement I’d leave this to a good watch maker.

Would it be safer to adjust the levers with the movement hacked? (Or will that mess it up)

What, wear the same watch for a month. I like to wear a different one every day.

When you do an adjustment to the two levers, and you say you put it back on the timegrapher to check, do you put the watch caseback back on the watch each time?