Unfortunately that decision is out of our control. We do have something new in the works that will be similar so stay tuned! I think everyone will be pleased with it!
FINALLY Someone strengthens an I/O transom for a bracketed conversion. I would have put three layers of 1708 over the plywood and used a sister stringer up the center but the way you pushed ut up about a foot really makes it strong
That's because Andy faired the transom before installing the new plywood core to ensure he achieved full contact. That's how I'd do it too; this is the slap-lots-of-Cabosil-thickened-resin-on-and-trust-you-get-full-contact approach. Quick, easy and will probably do the job but without the peace of mind that comes with fairing it flush first. There ain't many people willing to pay for the kind of time required for Andy's approach.
One thing you have to remember with Andy is that he doesn't take customer boats and has only been doing his own projects. Full time shops don't have the time to put into individual jobs like Andy does and if they hit a customer with an hourly bill done Andy's method it would be absurd. This method works fine; Andy's is probably better but the end result is the same.
This "how to" video showcases some real hackery. I was shocked at how bad every aspect of this job was done. It was stunning. I don't fully agree with exactly how boat works today did it, but at least he didn't rely on polyester filler, and only one layer of 1708 to hold a boat together. This video was laughable, if it wasn't so frighteningly bad.
If repairing a rotted transom on the same boat, how would you know where to put the new stringers? If installing another sterndrive just larger. The new engine will be resting on them so how in God's name are ya supposed to know how high, wide etc they need to be?
