This is one of the best step by step, how to videos I've ever seen on just about any topic - and especially on Taco cab mount mods. Complete with measurements and potential pitfalls. Great video! Thanks!
You have to actually go off-roading to see the need for a BMC when you have 33s or bigger tires. If just driving around and never flexing the suspension at full lock in a either direction and you have a 4” lift, than yeah probably won’t need one. 🤦🏼♂️
"we will use a sawzall so we don't have to use a plasma which will throw sparks and potentially cause fire" proceeds to immediately use a 4.5" angle grinder 🤣 jokes aside very informative video! Will be doing this before going to 35s thanks!
Thanks for posting this video, just bought a set from Alpines website for an FJ Cruiser. Just went to 35’s and I am getting rubbing with a previous body mount chop already.
I’d also recommend to all you guys who actually off-road to trim your those fenders. I wish I trimmed mine sooner, I knocked both of my fenders out of place on just 34s now going to 35s and trimmed those guys.
The body mount actually serves as 2 purposes. In the event of a crash it stops the wheel from going into the cab and crushing driver. With the new one you lose the safety aspect
Yeah, the cab mount is also a safety feature. would def be effed if you got into a head on collision. Legs would be crushed. Look it up you’ll find crash test information. But whatever not like a serious off-roader that would actually do this mod is concerned about collision safety lol...
Wear rubber gloves when you’re using acetone. It takes 6 seconds once it hits your skin to get to your liver. If you’re like me you your liver takes enough abuse. Great video guys
Hmm. I'm wondering if you can just trim the stock body-mount really far and not replace it with a plate. That would basically give you the same clearance . . .
I’m not tryna hate or anything but I feel like the chopping it slightly & welding it up method is easier & faster too LoL but aye whatever floats your boats 🤙🏼
as long as the bushings fit it shouldn't be a problem. I could be wrong though. I'd reach out to Alpine -- he's super responsive. info@alpinedesignsoffroad.com
I need this done on my truck is this guy in Utah.? How much was the mounts. Labor. I would do it myself don't have a pro welder. Let me know thanks. They make these for the second gen..kit
Looks easy enough, but dude... Where is the guard on that grinder? Zip disks don't fuck around when they shrapnel. Picked one out of a guy at works cheek, you could see it rubbing his molar. 15 stitches later
Sorry if someone has asked this before. Did you do anything to the sway bar so it doesn’t rub after going to a true 35” tire? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Get a relocation kit, or completely remove it. Most people with tires this size remove the sway bar for better articulation, and tbh it doesn't really help with body roll all that much anyways.
Flimsy AF. At least box it in from the bottom by welding another plate. There is a reason why Toyota engineers designed that entire bracket as robustly as they did.
How do you take care of the odometer and speedometer issue when getting bigger tires?? That’s really my biggest concern with dealing with the dealer servicing and all that how do you keep the odometer correct??
Hypertech sells a kit that's plug and play. It connect behind your gauge cluster and is adjustable for any tire size using the software on your pc. I have one on my truck, adjusted it multiple times for 33's and currently for 35's
It doesn’t seem like the Tacoma frame and parts are built for 35” tires. Will be interesting to see what kinds of longevity impacts come from driving and handling 35” tires.
Is there enough room to weld along the top outside portion of the new mount? I saw you did sides inside and out but couldnt tell if there was weld on the top inside and outside.
I have a 2019 Tacoma TRD OR. I have the BFG KO2s on my truck, but haven't changed the tire size. I was thinking about adding 33" or 35" tires sometime this year, but I'm concerned about the added stress to the CV axles and deeper components such as the front differential. Do people who add larger tires take this into consideration? Do you have recommendations to strengthen these components?
Canyon Overland A lot of people don’t take this into consideration no. A lot of modifications need to be done to make 35s and even 33s work properly but even then it does take a toll on the drivetrain. A 3” lift is basically essential to running big tires, which also requires a diff drop to correct the CV angles. Also you’ll be looking at UCA to improve caster and move the tire away from the cab. The biggest issue is power loss, you’ll ser need to re-gear to 5.29s. It’s not really worth it to me unless you have an almost 100% dedicated overland/off-road rig.
One approach is to do a thing and run till something gives. Upgrade that and do it again until the next part breaks. Eventually and with enough time and money spent, most items of limitation are worked out. However, it will come at a pretty heafty price. You either pay to play up front, or play and pay as you go. Unfortunately safety is compromised at every step of a modified vehicle. Not to say you can't reengineer the safety back into it, it just doesn't get done by most people that modify their vehicles. Your mileage may vary.
just adding tire size causes minimal stress on the CV, it only has to turn a bit more mass. lifts that causes more CV angles are the CV killers. RCV makes really strong CV, they claim it is stronger than solid axles. Then you have stronger pinion gears that even stock trucks break sometimes. There's no real solution, you can only beef up so much until something else breaks. CV are WAY easier and cheaper to replace and rebuild than diff gears. It can even be a trail repair if you bring a spare CV
@@insaynbcr if you’re wanting to run a tire that size you have to get the clearance from suspension lift. Cutting the body to fit a tire that size may clear when on the ground and steering but during travel with your suspension articulating it’s going to give you issues.
@@insaynbcr I deleted a couple comments I made last night, I really do enjoy his channel. I had a little too much whiskey and got way to opinionated lol. I hate to see someone take shortcuts when doing mods, if your going to do do it right.
@@larrysmith5578 Agreed! Get the tire clearance with the lift and the right rim tire combo. Honestly if I ever decided to put 35" or bigger tires on my '17 Taco, I would probably just go full SAS with an actual steering box. Hopefully there is something out there that has the wheel speed sensors already integrated in the axle setup to keep the computer happy. With the larger tires and SAS would come larger brakes to help stop the mass. Currently I am joyfully rolling on 255/85R16 KM3 tires, 2.5" ADS lift with ICON billet UCA's. With both the stock LCAs and the ICON UCAs tuned pretty much at stock alignment still, I get the slightest touch upon full stuff with tires turned roughly 30% either way, on the thin pastic liner well above the unmoletested factory cab mounts. Once I get the Marlin weld in alignment reinforcement kit for the LCAs installed, I plan to take advantage of the ICON UCAs to work out the forward caster adjustment and camber correction they offer. This should effectively weed out any further contact down there.
Perfect and good until you get in a car wreck and don’t have the full on cab mount to spare your legs but if bigger tires is worth turning you into LT. Dan then by all means go for it.
Body mounts in an accident, in a body on frame vehicle, is to minimize the amount of frame pulse in a crash that's transferred to the body from the frame, its the bushings not the metal frame bracket that transfer the energy. The tire's not coming busting thru the frame and into the cab
Maybe? The guys that make these parts for us make them for other trucks, so if you want to place a custom tundra order feel free to reach out to our support team at support@tacomabeast.com and they’ll be happy to help you place it 🙌
We sell the relocation kit yes, you can find it on out website here: tacomabeast.com/products/2016-2021-tacoma-front-cab-mount-relocation-kit?_pos=1&_sid=f709ee9ed&_ss=r
If I’m not mistaken,I noticed he welded down hand and down hand welds don’t produce as much strength as a vertical weld. I could be wrong but as a Ironworker I know when we weld out in the field with stick welding and if we weld down hand instead of a vertical the inspector would fail the weld if he saw this. Overall cool video👍
@Edward Anderson - Yup! You are not wrong bud. Welding downhill just makes a nicer smoother weld that can be easier to control the puddle with, and for the most part it is just a lazy approach to welding that part inplace.
You’re right but one thing I hate about welding up hill is you need to run a lot colder weld and obviously it won’t look as good for the finished product. Most customers are very judgmental on the way a weld looks. They don’t care if it’s right as long as it looks good. 🤦♂️
@@JYates89coupe Exactly. Very much like the folks that lift a truck with blocks and spacers just to "look" the part, but don't add any value to the function of lifting in the first place.
@@JYates89coupe I understand but 2 things,one who’s going to see that being it’s underneath the truck? 2nd,Me personally would rather have a weld look somewhat decent then to have that clip/body mount possibly snap and break off and god forbid that happens while in motion or operating the truck then you got a huuuuuge lawsuits your hands man and the risk of possibly injuring someone? Don’t get me wrong,I’m in no way shape or form going against what you’re saying bud,I’m just speaking in general? If you practice long and good enough you can make that vertical look like a down hand weld,I’ve welded vertical with my Mig and they’ve come out pretty damn good but then again there’s days I’m in the garage welding all day so that definitely helps!👍
I have a 1 inch Bilstein lift in the front and I was able to fit 35s with just a little bit of rubbing that eventually went away after the tread wore down a bit.
Similar to what we explained on this video. We were also barely rubbing. I am sure if we got a couple more miles on our tires the rubbing would go away. The rubbing will come again once you cycle through the suspension or when you try to park going into reverse by locking your tires fully. Not everyone is going to want to wait for they tires to slim down to fix their rubbing issue as it’s not an actual solution to the problem.
Got the same king shocks and 275/70/17 BFG MUD TERRAIN for now and stoked Not feeling good about cutting the frame on my 50 thousand dollar truck till it’s at least paid for🤪
@@RE3B00T true I own the second generation for about 4 years. Made it a mission to try to chase the rest living in the midwest during the winter time found myself quite often playing whack-a-mole finding rust spots and fixing them LOL thank God the bed is composite
@@RE3B00T And where it is driven. For example, I have a '97 Taco with 245k+ miles on it and very very little rust anywhere on it. I live the normally wet PNW and play on the coastal sand/beach with it. Also have a '17 Taco with 31K miles and zero rust so far.