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How to Remove a Ball Joint Safely - Harbor Freight Ball Joint Separator Tool Review

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Safely and easily separate a ball joint on a car or truck's suspension components. This video reviews the Harbor Freight Ball Joint Separator tool, item #99849, and highlights the do's and don'ts when performing this job.
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1. Lubricate the tool to prevent wear and breakage due to friction.
2. Do not use an air impact gun with this tool. A hand wrench or ratchet is more than sufficient for applying the necessary force so as not to damage the tool or potentially create a dangerous situation.
3. Do not necessarily tighten the tool so far as to pop the ball joint loose on its own. This can potentially result in a violent and dangerous outcome, not to mention that it can easily over stress and damage the tool. As per the video, use this tool in conjunction with the traditional method of hitting the steering knuckle with a hammer.
There have been a lot of comments here claiming that the component in this video is a tie rod end rather than a ball joint. I remain surprised at how many viewers, even professionals, confuse the terminology. A tie rod is part of the steering mechanism which is not being discussed in this video. This video features the true lower ball joint on a VW's suspension where it connects the lower control arm to the steering knuckle. If you're curious, look up this ball joint's OEM part #1H0407365A and note what it is called. The outer tie rod end is OEM part #191419812 and looks completely different and serves a totally different purpose.

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15 авг 2024

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Комментарии : 781

@cliffolson3229 2 года назад

Holy Hell,you are absolutely correct about not using an air tool with this. I'm sitting here having my life flash before my eyes 10 minutes ago using air with this tool. Ironically I had paused the video right before you gave that advice. Here I am working with the air kind of taking it slow, suddenly sounded like a firecracker ,went flying out and landed 3 feet away. If any body part was in the way it would have ended badly.

@chrismason598 2 года назад

Same thing happened with my it flew right into my knuckle and took out a dime sized chunk

@Marco2am 4 месяца назад

I just replaced my entire suspension on my civic and THIS TOOL saved me! I did everything I could, even ALL the hammer tricks. Thank you for the upload!

@WorseThanChiggers 4 месяца назад

Glad you had success with your project. That's what we like to hear!

@terranceaskew3165 5 месяцев назад

Just spent 19.99 on one, while working on an incredibly stubborn lower ball joint. This tool was the last attempt before a torch came out, and it finally popped. Harbor freight tools are usually hit or miss, but this was a hit for me. Thanks for the review!

@Barrera00009 2 года назад

Thank you for this tutorial I spent two hours trying to get it off with a hammer on the right side so I decided to go buy this and it took me 10 minutes to get it out. Of the left side. This is a must have for all mechanics

@Bwanar1 4 года назад

A little spray lube up top, on the ball joint, to begin with will usually make it come out a lot easier also!

@lloyd-qt1mg 4 года назад

Hey man ... you are a Top Gun! I love a man who respects the tools and the components he works on and you showed us exactly that. That's the way to get years of life from a 'friend' like your 'ball joint' remover. Thank you. Lloyd. Queensland, Australia.

@cwmoser 2 года назад

I have this tool. I put nut back on to protect the threads, spray on some PB Blaster, tighten the ball joint separator. Go drink a beer and listen for the pop. Return to finish the job.

@grumerguy 7 лет назад

Bought one of these to separate ball joints from spindles on 67 mustang. Unbelievable on how well it worked on these rusted 50 year old parts. I have used it more than 8 times on my 66 mustang project, and it has not failed yet! This tool is incredible.

@lizardtoter 5 лет назад

I CAN ACTUALLY SEE WHAT THE MECHANIC IS DOING! Most videos you can't see the work being done just the back of the person doing the job. Great video 👌👍.

@waterboxer87 6 лет назад

I used the same tool to pop free the tie rod end on a 1984 Volvo. Harbor Freight quality seems to have improve within the last two years. Most of my Harbor Freight tools have served me well. The combination of RU-vid DIY videos and HF tools have saved me thousands over the year With experience, you learn how much stress a HF tool can take before failing.

@blueridermg 6 лет назад

Thanks for the demo. Good to see you took your time on this and showed that it’s not always brute force but some patience technique that can do the job.

@jonathanpascual5353 4 года назад

Thank you for the video. People can say whatever they want about Harbor Freight. They say “low quality”, I say good enough for me. I don’t do these kinds of jobs for a living. So I don’t see a point in spending a boat load of money on some tools that I’d probably only use _maybe_ twice a month. For some specialty tools, I may only use just once.

@FromThe3PointLine 11 месяцев назад

This worked for me. September 12, 2023 and it was $21.64. Thank you

@TehMattman 7 лет назад

Went searching RU-vid for a solution to a stuck ball joint and didn't know this tool existed. It works great! The hammer trick did not work for me, but under enough pressure, my ball joints did come off with a little bit of an explosion.

@allenmckinney9533 6 лет назад

VonWoodson leave the nut on the end so it catches when the joint comes loose.

@NickPeaden 5 лет назад

Great review of a decent tool. It did well with the tie rod end separation without damaging the boot! I bought one of these, oiled it up, and broke the jaw off (with a "breaker bar", of course) within 15 minutes of purchase and returned it for a replacement at the local HF. Then I went to Tractor Supply to get a better torch than the small pencil propane unit I had to a large flame torch (MagTorch MT245) and upgraded to propene gas ("MAP-Pro"). After I had no luck with a pickle fork, beaten the paint off the control arm (with 1 and 4 lb hammers), broken the clamp tool, and had messed around with the tiny torch, I finally took a combination of this tool, and a lot of heat and got the damned thing to pop free with a sound no less than a small-caliber gunshot, sending everything flying. After replacing that one side, I eventually found the jaw of the broken tool embedded in my push broom during cleanup. Let it be known that turn of the millennium Taurus wagons do not give up their ball joints lightly. Penetrating oil (Kroil) and putting a pitman arm puller (recommended tool in the shop manual) under tension for 24 hours after hammering for hundreds of strikes has not worked yet for the other side either. She needs the heat, or liquid nitrogen, but I don't have any cryogenic fluids around.

@NickPeaden 5 лет назад

Backup plan was a zip disc in the angle grinder against the control arm. Control arms are cheap. Steering knuckles are forever!

@That_Handle 4 года назад

Working within tight temperature tolerance considerations on a brake line job, I used a non-contact thermometer to monitor the temperature of a corroded brake fitting while I was thoroughly heating the female side up after which I thermal-shocked the *male* side with dry ice after and while spraying creeping lubricant onto the male threads. A few rounds of heating the female side and then getting the male fitting to a frosty state while being assisted by tapping on the male fitting buy a ball peen hammer using a rivet punch to land the shock right where it needed to be received on the male side finally broke the twenty-year-old brake fitting free. Dry ice is only about $2.50 per pound at my local grocery store of which I probably only used a pittance of it and the rest just sublimated away. Prior to that , the thermal Delta was just not great enough on about a half a dozen previous attempts. I'm keeping that idea my back pocket for suspension work in-line line with Spirit of your comment. 👍📌📍

@TehKaiser 4 года назад

Ford likes to spec metal that rusts shut in 20 years.

@NickPeaden 4 года назад

@@TehKaiser Nothing rusted together. This was in the deep South. It just didn't want to come apart.

@christophercole3055 5 лет назад

Thanks for posting this! I'll never put down Harbor Freight tools again. Worked like a charm on my '67 Beetle!

@demetriostsillas8981 8 лет назад

I used this tool to separate 16 year old stuck New England Passat front lower control arm ball joint. The Trick for me was to leave the nut on the end of threaded tip so the lever has more surface to press against. Took advice of the review and banged on the knuckle to free it. One thing to be careful with is that on some cars the ABS wheel speed sensor is in the same knuckle and can be damaged or get dirty with rust if you bang away on the housing. Might be smart to check the function of the ABS before you put the wheel back on.

@dtrrtd774 7 лет назад

You don't really need to be so fearful about applying torque to the tool, it's built to take more torque than was shown rotating the socket wrench using the palm over the socket. With the tool it should be unnecessary to hammer on the suspension parts and risk damage to bearings. If all you have is a hammer, then that's when you do what you need to do, and pound away on it.

@donaldtate3372 4 года назад

Audience, just used this tool yesterday in the garage to change out upper control arms... It was a snap, crackle, then POP...Smh up and down. Worked effectively!

@Redface19 7 лет назад

EXCELLENT video. Clear, close, and well-lit; no glare from outdoor ambient light; valuable insight on use and maintenance of tool as well as safety precautions. I think I will be getting this from Harbor Freight TOMORROW.

@condensermike 4 года назад

Just used that tool on my 2007 Subaru Forester ball joints. Worked like a charm. The trick - as mentioned in this video - is using it in conjunction with a hammer. Make sure you keep the threads lubricated. I used 3and1 oil. The tool is actually really well made.

@kylewoodward7078 5 лет назад

Great video..no stupid music or rambling..strait to the point. Very informative. New subscriber.

@maxb1401 5 лет назад

I tried it, after your review, worked pretty well, took 2 tries, but got it position the right way. Was still a lot of hastle to get the broken ball joint out, but worked out at the end. Thanks for the review and tutorial.

@Joaquin-hf9sl 4 года назад

Y///

@ezerish 6 лет назад

I didn't have enough room to swing a hammer effectively, so I bought this and it helped alot. Did not notice the adjustable pin, so you taught me something.

@jeremiahbush3195 3 года назад

One of the best tools i have bought from harbor freight. So much better than a pickle fork.

@maq2000 3 года назад

OMG this video worked! I have the same type of ball joint where the screw is pointing upwards. I have the same ball joint remover from harbor freight. I have reviewed video after video and forum after forums. Still after 2 days of hammering and using the pickled fork and the ball joint remover, I could not get that damn thing to budge. I also had the same issue with trying to get the ball joint remover around the boot, but utilizing your tilted method, along with the hammer technique, and retightening, it popped off in a spectacular fashion!

@porthose2002 5 лет назад

You know, you don't produce many videos, but they always seem to be exactly what I need when I find one that applies. I'd spent several hours trying to separate the ball joint on the lower control arm from the knuckle on my 2012 Odyssey before finally giving up and going to bed. This morning I found your video, tried it, and after a few blows, the thing finally separated. Thanks for taking the time to make it. I only wish that they made those tools with a wider channel for bigger vehicles.

@machobunny1 5 лет назад

Excellent. There is worry about damaging the rubber, for some reason. This shows that on VW and Porsche cars that is not a concern, even for those who cherish parts that need to be thrown away anyhow. This makes it all clear. WELL DONE and THANK YOU. Oh. THere are "experts" below who think this is a tie rod. Not that it matters, but they are wrong.

@marcroberts8705 7 лет назад

i used a bench grinder to grind the inside of the jaws to make it wider, and now it works great!!! seems like its the answer to all my problems at this point, from tie rods, to removing a steering knuckle, i just love this tool. It just took a minor adjustment. just make sure you dont grind it down too much, the jaws will be too small and will just bend under pressure.

@MrCaribe65 6 лет назад

I have used the same tool on numerous vehicles. Allways worked like a charm...

@7493prado 2 года назад

Passenger side camed out like butter. Couple of love taps and that was it. Can’t say for the driver side. Hopefully this method works for me. Great video

@dcavalli9 7 лет назад

I bought mine over the weekend with the 20% discount coupon. It worked perfectly on my 2002 Honda Civic in separating the ball joint from the lower control arm that I had spent hours trying to hammer apart and drown with PB Blaster. It's worth the money and will save you time (and help you avoid possibly damaging the ball joint boot as I did).

@dtrrtd774 7 лет назад

I actually had this tool but misplaced it, and was ready to purchase another for work on a 94 Civic, but went a cheaper route- used the loaner tool that Advance Auto very nicely provides. I appreciated the service so much I'm going to make more purchases from them, so I guess the loaner program is good business.

@dcavalli9 7 лет назад

DTR RTD I rented a ball joint press from Autozone. It came in a dirty case (inside and out) with only a few cups. It did the job of pressing out the ball joint from the wheel hub (and pressing out the new one after realizing it installed it backwards and then the right way). I will turn to Advance Auto next time. (Their 1.5 ton floor jack is quite good. The 1.5 floor jack I bought from Autozone broke.)

@aarongray503 5 лет назад

Advance Auto and napa are the creame of the crop.@@dcavalli9

@dcavalli9 5 лет назад

@@aarongray503 My Bank of America credit credit offers 10 percent cash back for Advance Autoparts purchases but only five percent for Autozone.

@auxmike 7 лет назад

I just put an impact to the thing. Then I wait for the "explosion"! This tool was the ONLY thing that worked for me. Worth every cent:)

@nutsackmania 6 лет назад

I rip on one of these with a Snap On electric impact. Mount tool, hit it with the impact and it's off in 5 seconds. I've done this probably 50 times on the tool I have. It is one of the most effective tools for the money I've ever purchased. I'd probably pay $100 or more for it, but luckily it is $20. There are lots of off-label uses as well. When you need it, you'll be very happy you have it.

@loufresquez8031 3 года назад

Thanks for video used this tool today on 63 C10 pick up worked great. Sprayed with Pb blaster before grabbing tools got bolt of tool threaded half way gave a smack with hammer popped off

@turbo12v 7 лет назад

I recommend using their impact wrench too! I got a 3/4,1/2,and 1 inch. I used them on a semi truck,and they do the job right. Now,I'm getting the 20 volt 1/2 inch cordless impact wrench.

@JeffinTD 4 года назад

Mainly I use mine for tie rod, steering stabilizer and other smaller joints on pickups, occasionally ball joints on ATV. Decent little tool.

@mclarkallen 6 лет назад

I bought one today and it was almost too small to work on my 72 VW bus. But I put the nut back on and was able to grab the edge of the nut. I put my impact gun on it til it got tight, walked away and BAM. it popped off. Same deal on the driver's side. Great tool.

@srob4313 3 года назад

No for violence against ball-joints. Thanks.

@josecortez5213 3 года назад

Thanks for the warning about using the impact on this tool. I was as already picturing my milwaukee impact driver popping out my ball joint. I didn't imagine it could seriously injure me.

@duffman1241 5 лет назад

I have one of these never used it on ball joints! I split the two pieces and use it to remove injectors on my Cummins put the u under the injector and tap the other end with a dead blow! I have also used it to separate the exhaust side of my turbo I took out the bolt and hit the end with a dead blow it worked great!

@condensermike 4 года назад

I love this little tool. I used it on my Forester ball joints. Worked great.

@lope6996 4 года назад

tip: when using this tool keep the nut on loosely on the end to not spoil the thread. make sure the nut is easy to remove if not the thread will turn with the nut and will be hell to remove. i normally remove the nut all the way then put in back on about 3 threads in

@charleswilson4598 3 года назад

Some years ago I was working on my '87 Mazda. I was doing some front end work and had to drop the lower control arm. I had a book and it said do not hit the control arm with a hammer to loosen it. I didn't have any special tools and wasn't sure what to do. So, I went to a local Mazda dealership to talk to one of their mechanics. I asked him how do you get that lower control arm ball joint loose. He said " I hit about three good whacks with a heavy hammer and it drops out". Sure enough. I went home and hit that control arm three good whacks with a 3 lb hammer and it dropped right out.

@allenmckinney9533 5 лет назад

One of best tools ever. Great for tight areas.

@tommycortez_ 4 года назад

If you don’t want to mushroom the male threads , reinstall the nut flush with the ball joint and use the same technique. Good job on the removal.

@robertdurrance8161 4 года назад

you can also cut boot off since your not reusing. that will give you extra clearance

@frankli8881 4 года назад

I bought this tool because I don't want to hammer the knuckle. Now you taught me to hammer the knuckle.

@noelleonard2498 6 лет назад

This thing is awesome, have used it several times, don't know why I didn't buy it a long time ago. Yea, plenty of grease on those threads, apply some pressure, tap and voilà! I love this thing!

@-.__.__.-Rad 4 года назад

I would've left the nut halfway on... Nothing will explode anywhere that way. Also your clamp sits better on the nut than on just the tip of the screw

@rickycarroll1990 3 года назад

U suppose to leave the nut on, lol

@nissandudeful 5 лет назад

Maybe a helpful idea .... Put the ball joint castle nut back on by a couple of threads and THEN use your tool. The way the tool is made , it's not for trying to align and hold onto the threaded end of the ball joint, hoping that it doesn't slide off. The nut gives it more surface area and also prevents it from popping loose and possibly completely off unexpectedly.

@wswiii3663 5 лет назад

Always put the nut back on if you want to reuse the ball joint or tie rod end. Doing this keeps the threads perfect and keeps the parts in place, not flying off, plus the tool has more to work with.

@jasonsims007 5 лет назад

also keeps from screwing the threads up

@toortoor783 4 года назад

Good suggestion.

@charleswilson4598 4 года назад

Good idea.

@toortoor783 4 года назад

The best advise it works the way you advised

@sexybluelady 7 лет назад

The tool is very good to use on big trucks. I used it on drag links and pitman arms. Works great on trucks. On import cars, just use a pickle fork and a hammer.

@adaboy4z Год назад

It worked for ball joints and few other things. thanks for the review.

@ladymecshardware2062 5 лет назад

This is the only tool youll ever need for ball joints in my opinion. I love it. Its not heavy. Its just perfect

@chefboyardee8201 2 года назад

Yeah definitely dont use impacts on these the first one snapped and im lucky i didnt catch a slug sized chunk of steel to the face

@dickphan 3 года назад

Very useful tool for ball joints!!! 👍👍👍

@ekcivic3843 4 года назад

Best 20$ i ever spent although i bout lost my face when the balljoint exploded😂😂 works great would buy another for sure 👌

@allisteryoung243 3 года назад

Super helpful sir. Got an 02 camry that im putting together for a commute car. Awesome review 👍😉

@FirstLastOne 5 лет назад

"Popped it loose with very little violence"... only happened because that ball joint knew it would be shown on social media and didn't want to be signaled out as a troublemaker. Great vid!

@jerrellstrawn6409 7 лет назад

Excellent. The hammer relieves a great deal of stress on the knuckle and your tool.

@vmukal8430 8 лет назад

Thanks for posting this video - very clear and well done. Your tip on using oil on the threads and using eye protection are right on. I have found that even if you can get the fork of the tool completely seated, the ball joint will often not "pop" out unless it is hit with a hammer as you did in the video. Thanks again!

@amhurford 4 года назад

Putting silicone grease or WD40 silicone on the fork of the tool will help lubricate the metal to dust cover often enabling the fork of the tool to slide further over the dust cover and help to avoid damage to the dust cover if it is to be re-used.

@DIYApprentice 7 лет назад

I've had the same tool for a number of years and I've used it many times. Here are some things I've found that work fairly well: (1) Lubricate the bolt's threads as mentioned in the video. The tool's finish is coarse and could tear the ball joint's boot, so I heavily grease the fork, also. (2) The fork is fairly narrow, so it might be necessary to carefully hammer the tool into place on the ball joint so it's not tilted. (3) I put a nut flush on the end of the threaded ball joint stud so the tool doesn't damage the threads. I use a spare castle nut. I only had one incident out of many attempts where I could not get the ball joint to pop loose - in fact, nothing I tried worked, including the 1/2" ratchet stomp method (ended up having to replace the ball joint after it got mangled). Normally, you should be able to crank away with a 19mm or 3/4" wrench or socket and not have to coax the ball joint loose with additional hammering on the steering knuckle.

@dtrrtd774 7 лет назад

The boot can be coaxed away from the control arm to get enough clearance to slide the tool between it and the control arm, once it's started between the boot and the control arm, wiggling it side to side to get it fully seated should preserve the boot. Seating it fully puts the heavy section of the tool in place to withstand the force, the tip of the forks isn't as strong and risks damaging the tool when using it with heavier force.

@AJFresh69 6 лет назад

Not enough people seem to recognize the importance of installing the castle nut upside down so that you don't press directly on the ball joint threads especially if you are trying to reuse the ball joint. Same for tie-rods

@mikeandrews6265 5 лет назад

who gives a shit about the boot? your installing a new B.J.

@WorseThanChiggers 5 лет назад

In this video, I wanted to reuse the ball joint because it was perfectly fine. Otherwise, I wouldn't have minded destroying the boot.

@ssmith4013 3 года назад

I have done many VW's with this. THANK GOD VW has those clamps on the end of the control arm so you can just slide a new Ball joint assembly in and out. Every car should have these. One of the few good ideas VW has come up with. Now, if they will just get the memo on not using tiny/weak, pre-rusted, and pre-broken Brake-Bleeder Screws we will be getting somewhere.

@colincourtney5990 8 лет назад

Good clear instructions. I add some releasing fluid to the pin base before I try to press it free, which helps removal. I also try to get the lower fork arm BELOW the rubber seal, to avoid splitting it, and in case I have to re-use it? Some removers have a dome in the bottom to locate on the ball of the joint. Your commentary was very clear and helped me understand the different settings of the tool. Thanks.

@jerryjones2976 8 лет назад

+Colin Courtney I also figured the same thing.... that the lower fork arm goes below the rubber seal - not around it. But when I lifted the lip of the boot to slide the tool under it, the grease oozed out and it hissed as trapped air got expelled. Now I am not sure what is correct... under the seal or around it.

@avid0g 6 лет назад

The boot made a hissy fit?

@csmers3743 4 года назад

Great video!! Great explanation and points, as well as being able to see what you were doing!!! Very helpful tips. I love Harbor Freight so will definitely pick this up as I have to remove mine very soon...

@kcgfy81 2 года назад

I have this one. Worked great for upper control arm ball joint but too small for the lower ball joint.

@daddyrabbit835 2 года назад

Same here. I have a 2007 RAM 1500.

@davidrobins4025 4 года назад

Thanks for the clear demonstration of the use of this tool.

@MrRockydee07 5 лет назад

I have the same tool, I think your way the bend and snap works much better ...👍

@kevint9702 3 года назад

If you can position a second hammer on the opposite side of where you're striking the outside of the ball joint socket, then strike it fairly hard, usually it will fall right out without a separator tool. I've done this for years. This works on tie rod ends as well. Rarely I will have someone with a pry bar putting some pressure on the joint. I've done this for years and never owned a separator. If possible and you have the room, it works best if you can swing both hammers striking the opposite sides at the same time.

@pickletheft887 5 лет назад

picked this up today. worked great, def worth the 19.99

@Slatinum_bookies 5 месяцев назад

This video shows how effective this could be and im definitely going to try when replacing my control arm

@Roach8431D2 3 года назад

Had the same one. First time I used, the top snapped right off. Didn't realize I already got the ball joint off and kept tightening it. -_-

@boosted2.4_sky 6 лет назад

It actually did better than I thought it would... Nice

@scottmillhouse5099 5 лет назад

Make sure to follow the lubrication advice, anti-seize may work even better than oil. I used this tool once on my Jeep and it galled before popping the ball joint, getting the tool back off was a treat

@Zoofactory 4 года назад

I just got smarter. Thx👍

@stevemojo2638 6 лет назад

great video but this tool as well as the compression tool for installing a new ball joint on the car can be rented from autozone stores. you make a deposit which is returned after you bring the tool back.

@ekcivic3843 4 года назад

Very true but now it cost 150 $ to RENT the ball joint press because they upgraded the name brand of there rental tools here in ohio i just replaced both sides of my civic i did get every penny back but who has 150 to rent a tool pluss buy the 40$ balljoint

@rickyjohnson974 4 года назад

@@ekcivic3843 exactly ☝️

@scottscratcher1220 6 лет назад

Thank you for showing us the safe and inexpensive way for removing the parts

@BoostedPastime 6 лет назад

I have a stuck ball joint on my Civic and this tool actually exploded in a white pop of air while in use

@iceman213 6 лет назад

I have one that was made in the 60s , it’s the exact same design and works perfect 👌🏼.......

@apagan65 4 года назад

Nice detailed instructions! Thank you.

@vicpnut1 2 года назад

Yeah if I had to guess ours not suppose to have the top hooked around the bolt like that …looks like should have the point of the jaw on top of bolt so not torquing to the side at all …am only Half way through your vid so I imagine you get it but might’ve worked without hammer if you had direct opposite pressure instead of angled pressure …..glad you hammered instead of trying to force with the tool

@miguelcastaneda7236 4 года назад

hate to say yea getting old used to use pickle fork and sledge ..bought this and hell yea works and for price its great..am sure snap on has one but i dont have deep pockets

@charleswilson4598 4 года назад

Years ago I was working on my 1987 Mazda. I think I was trying to drop the ball joint so I could pull the half axle, not sure. I had the nut off and was trying to figure out how to force the ball joint out of its socket. I didn't have any tools to do that. The book I had cautioned don't hit the lower control arm with a hammer. So I was unsure what to do. So I went down to my local Mazda dealer and talked to a Mazda mechanic. I asked him how they got the ball joint loose. He told me "hit it with a hammer about three times and it will drop right out". I did as he advised and sure enough the ball joint dropped out.

@SeekTruthinLight 5 лет назад

Glad it went well for ya... the right tool and the right method.

@grawey77 6 лет назад

I damaged the stud by bending it slightly on the ball joint and stripped the bolt on the tool trying to break loose the tension strut on a Chrysler 300. Ended up having to use a pickle fork which damaged the boot on the ball joint in the tension strut which was still good. I had to remove the spindle to press in a new ball joint in the spindle and breaking loose the tension strut is part of the process. Needless to say I have to replace the tension strut now for peace of mind.

@4tcobb 11 месяцев назад

excellent well explained instructional video, thank you so much

@scottneil998 4 года назад

Cv joint grease is the best thing to lubricate the threads on the tool as it can take the pressure better

@GCraigmile 5 лет назад

Keep the nut on it next time at the top.. This gives you a larger surface to push against and help prevent messing up the threads if you’re going to reuse the ball joint.

@hairlesschimp479 4 года назад

Pickle forks work with newer ball joints that don't have that huge screw. But i had to replace an entire control arm because the ball joint can't be separated from the arm. 2016 ford escape.

@ivyfrazier8039 2 года назад

Great video. Unfortunately on my 2012 Chevy Silverado 1500 it was too small to fasten to the lower ball joint.

@Jacksonkellyfreak 6 лет назад

We use these things in airliner heavy maintenance to push out seized aileron, spoiler/speed brake, rudder and sometimes elevator bolts. The amount of abuse they can suffer is substantial. Most of the time when the bolt finally breaks free of the bushing it's seized in it's as loud as a rifle shot and can usually be heard in the hangar next door. Just about all of us have the harbor freight ones, because we only use them once a month or so, and very rarely do we break one. In fact the only one I personally broke was the lower jaw because I had ground it down to fit in a tight spot and went a little too far. And yes we replace 100% of the corroded hardware we remove. One spot of corrosion trashes it whether it's a 50 cent screw or a $600 elevator eccentric bolt.