Overview of how to remove a 2012 Subaru Outback CVT transmission with a few install tech tips at the end! Hope this video helps if you are planning on tackling this job!
Great video! Just started this project on an identical Outback today! I have done a dozen or more of the older EJ25 auto motor pulls and transmission swaps.. threw me for a loop seeing the motor mounts where they were! I'm to the point now of removing the motor mounts, a couple bellhousing bolts and the Transmission crossmember and it should drop right out 🙏 Also, I was able to get a 3/8 ratchet with a shallow socket at the Torque converter bolts from underneath much easier than pulling that top plug on this newer Gen! Happy wrenchin 🤘
Thanks for watching! Good luck with your project! I thought the same thing when I first encountered this setup!! I prefer the old style, myself! I don't like change!!!!!
Great video Smitty! I have a 2012 Outback 2.5i Premium and my CVT started slipping about 2-1/2 to 3 years ago at about 133K and it is now at 155K. I have been driving in M (manual) with the paddle shifters since it started slipping and that eliminates the slipping since that takes it out of the "constantly variable" mode and I notice that if I drive it in Manual for 20 or so miles and when the transmission is good and warm then I can slide it into automatic D (drive) and it doesn't slip. I've been driving it for 22K miles that way with only an occasional slip in higher gear position, 4th and above, when it's still cold. I have no clue about these CVT things or how they work and you obviously do and I can't get any real answers in the NASIOC forum, some of those guys in there can be real tools, but I was wondering if what I have going on is just a faulty valve body and the whole CVT doesn't need to be replaced? That would be an easy fix LOL! Wishful thinking right? I know these 2012's have CVT issues and SOA was offering rebates way back when the issue started but I am way past that. Thanks again and regards, Rick
This is a superb video, it looks like being my next job, it will be very helpful. One question though, if the battery is left off a while, would the car drive without re programming? I ask because I just changed the lock up solenoid in my 2012 OB and all was well for almost 1K miles, then BANG. Howling from the trans and no drive. As I had no access to computers etc. I had just reassembled everything and run the car in fwd/rev with the wheels off the ground till the oil was at correct level and all seemed well until the above dilemma.
Thanks for watching! As far as the computer goes, it's difficult to say, for sure. My advice would be to jump on amazon and for under $20 you can grab an adapter to keep the ECU memory backed up. Better safe than sorry! Just search "ECU memory saver"
My 2011 outback just did this too. Took off from a stop sign, and then howling and no drive/reverse. Did you find out what failed? Just trying to figure out if I need a total replacement or if it's something simple
Great video. What is the concern with leaving the battery off for an extended period? I occasionally need to leave my Outback in storage for several months and typically disconnect/remove the battery and have never noticed an issue apart from needing to reset the clock.
Thanks for watching! On some late model Subaru's (and other makes) it has the potential to wipe out the memory on the trans control unit, prompting a reporgram! Better safe than sorry!
Great video! I have to do the same job, but my engine is already out so ot should be even easier. Qiestion, did the replacement transmission work out? Did you have to reset it or anything like that?
So, on this job, I used an adapter that back feeds power into the OBD daig connector to save the “memory” in the ECU. The used trans worked like a charm!
Great Video! Super helpful for getting the tranny out of my 2013 outback. Can I put in a transmission from a different year (as long as it's the same generation) without messing up the programing?
12-17 are compatible (tr580), however the 14-17 models have the tcm on top of the trans and you have to reuse the valve body cover off of your old transmission as well as your original tcm
Thanks bro. I’m a Chrysler tech I own a 2014. I still have to check if it’s still the same but I was wondering how to get the torque converter bolts out besides the poor opening at the bottom.
Can the springs on the clutch side in subaru converters from cvt transmission get looser and make the car shiver when driving ? Fells like mine shivers in some driving situations !
If you do a search of "judder" or "shudder" you should find some info on that. "Traditional" automatic transmissions can develop this problem which is often linked to a converter issue. The CVT's are more often from an internal problem. I am definitely NOT a transmission expert, so due diligence on your part! Worse case, have it properly diagnosed by a transmission specialist!
Thanks so much for the video. My tranny is developing a slip and will need to take this on…when your installing the new transmission back into the car and hook up the oil cooler lines, is there anything I need to know about that process? I know how to check ATF fluid level for the TR580. I am assuming you just flush the cooler, hook up the hoses, check ATF level, run the car to temp, then check level again and maybe top it off? The air in the lines will purge on their own?
Best bet is to really soak those alignment dowels with some lubricant and tap them with a punch to get them "free." Carefully pry on the lower end of the bell housing as well. Good luck!
Assuming you removed all 4 bolts from the converter, then the nose of the converter is stuck in the back of the crankshaft. Gently pry it from the crank being very careful because the converter is heavy!
There are several brands of trans cooler flush you can use. They typically come in a spray can with an attached hose that connects directly into the cooling hose. Leave the other end facing towards a drain bucket. I will usually use the entire can to ensure good results. You should be able to pick up a can at your local parts store! Good luck!
@@NestorservingGod Yeah......I mean....it's doable on your back. We've all been there..... but, obviously, it would be a lot easier, faster, and even safer to do it on a lift if one is available! Good luck to ya!
