Thanks for taking the time to make this video. Most importantly the tools needed at the end of the video is a HUGE help. Nothing worse than having to make several trips to the auto parts store in the middle of a job for silly (use only once tools). Thanks again!
This is exactly how its done. Easiest and fastest way to do it. Saved me $1200! You can just disconnect that little shift wire under the steering column. And be sure to know that your dash (if it isn't already) will crumble into a million pieces once you man handle it. I just covered it with one of those cheap dash mats of Ebay for $35. It looks much better now. Thank you Charles Moebes for putting this online for us shadetree mechanics. My AC is blowing ice cold now!
;) no problem. I enjoy hearing that I've helped out other people. Thanks for the comment. Yeah the Georgia sun did a number on my dash too. I just got some realtree fabric from a friend and a hot glue gun... Good enough for an old work truck.
Thanks for the video! I've got a '99 that I purchased new in October of '98. The air conditioning went out in early 2002. I've driven it without air for all that time until now when my heater core finally failed and forced me to go in and fix it. Your video helps me feel a little more at ease doing the job myself!
This vid is very helpful. I don't have a problem with my evap at this time but I worried about the day when it would fail. Now I know I can fix it. Thank you!!!
im getting ready to tackle one of these at work, im a mechanic but i work on oil field equipment and hate working on cars and pickups. we normally just send these to dodge but they charge 1200-1300 to do these but with the oil field down my boss man wants me to do these and this video is going to be a huge help. ours are 2010-2012 3500 but after looking at some other videos they appear to be very simalar. this is the best and most informative one i have watched thasnks so much for sharing!!
Good video. Appreciate it all these years later. Also, pretty sure I heard that infamous music in the background that usually plays at 1630 on military instillations...good ole Retreat.
One of the most descriptive and well thought videos I have seen on this. I am not to worried about doing it now. You didn't leave anything out, I will take the IPad to the truck tomorrow morning and get to work.
Thanks I just finished and everything went smooth thanks to your video,my truck is a 2000 3500 with a cummins and a local shop quoted me 1300 and i replaced evaporator and heater core for 120 and it only took about 4 hours,thanks again
Thank you very much for making this video! The shop gave me a quote of $1500 to replace a $65 evaporator. If it was not for this video, it would be out of luck and out of money!
Thanks for the demo, damn.....Im glad you guys have good backs left, I'm on my 3rd fusion...great job on the evap core. I don't think mines leaking but I'm sure it wont pass air thru it....97 model used in the hay fields for years by me and my dad, just trying to bring it back to life now...not really sure why, old memories I guess...tks again..
i have a 98 i need to do currently. awsome video. thanks, and nice work. taking the dash down complete will save many hours of work. did not even know it was possible.
thanx 4 reply treelite . im just guessing from reading at forums but what i think some have done is use hack saw blade to cut heatercore tubes off core while still in the box . this allows them to then remove core by just lifting out . then they install the new kind with tubes that are turnable , turnable tubes allow them to get tubes through firewall without removing box . and ive seen over 5 guys at forums say theyve done heater core without touching ac . and the guys seemed honest
Thanks! Very helpful video. Doing mine this weekend. Have everything done except bolt the dash back up. Biggest problem I had was with the quick connects under the hood. Getting them off (don't think the core had ever been changed) and getting one of them to snap back on was a major pain.
I have been having AC trouble for 4 years now. I don't know who to trust. I was told it was my evaporator, but no one can confirm that it need replaced. They want to charge me 1,000.00 to replace it. Now that I see all of the hard work you put into it... I don't want anyone to do that and screw it up even more.. I see so many areas that someone can break... I don't know what to do.. I guess I will have to Hot in Florida.... Thanks for the Video you did a great job!
Take it somewhere and ask them put a vacuum on your system for about 10 minutes. If the vacuum lessens in the 10 minutes then you have a leak. Same principle as sticking a suction cup to a window then poking it with a needle. It can be in numerous places. You can get them to add uv dye to the system also, which makes it easier to track down the leak with a black Light. Good luck!
+Charles Moebes I have had die put in it several times. This last place I took it put die in it again and gave me some free-on, the vary next day my condenser fan went started shaking, I took it back and had that fixed 300.00- then 2 days later I was out of AC again.. . I took it back and they said they could not see a leak and that it must be my evaporator... But I see the die on the hard line valve area and on an elbow. - they put more Free-on in it..I don't trust them. It is still cooling now but I don't know for how long... I called the dealer, and they said they do a pressure check and it will tell me exactly where the leak is.. is that what you mean about vacuum? I will not pay 1,000.00 or more to have my dash ripped out. I would invest it in another vehicle first.
Well, after 4 years and 3 different mechanics... I took it to the Dodge Dealer, after they had it for 4.5 hours on day one, then 6 hours on day 2- they went through the glove compartment and into the evaporator case and did see that it was leaking. They saw die dripping and the sniffer did find it too- So now they want 1500.00 to fix it. It looks like I will be driving in my bathing suit and and fan when the 2 lbs they put in leaks out. I will be looking for another vehicle. I love my truck and will keep her, but I think I will invest the 1500 in a car- she will have a little sister lol- any suggestions on a car to get? I am thinking Nissan.. - I know not American, but they are supposed to be really good..
Just did this today, totally useful video!! the hardest part was separating the AC lines at the fire wall. My addition to this video would be to spray some penetrating oil onto the fittings to loosen them up. I had to and wait about 3 hours until they would come loose. Just do this the night before you plan on doing it.
Youre alright dude thanks for the video helped a lot ,.. my cash is low right now and I live down in the south where it is hotter the hell hadnt had no Ac in a long time couldnt aford it till you showed me how to do it my self
Thanks for taking the time to video and post this. Very nice job you did on it. This is an example of what's great about the internet. You probably saved more than a few people around $1000.
Great instructional video. I had to change the heater core in my '98 Durango so I had the dealer change the evaporator while they were back there because its very laborious to take out the dash.
6-8-13 thank you so much for making this video this is awesome!, I have a 2001 2500 and a few months ago I replaced the dash cover and I was cussin up a storm if I had seen your video it would have made the job a lot easier, I have to replace the evaporator core now, I'm doing it tomorrow and I will be using your guidance to do it. I want to thank you again and I think my neighbors will thank you to (they won't have to cover there kids ears)
I did the heater core two years ago. And I'm pretty sure you will not be able to remove the heater core without disconnecting the AC lines. You have to tilt the box or the enclosure toward the seats to get the heater core out. But you don't have to remove the box completely, just unscrew the little brace and ground wire than secures it to the box after u tilt it.. and disconnect the heater and AC lines.
Thx for taking the time to film the project. I need to replace the htr core in my 2000 durango 4WD 5.9L. I have "fog" lofting from the air vents, and have to add water to the system every few weeks. The vehicle is worth about what a shop would charge for the job, so DIY is in order. I don't know much about the AC side. Is there anyway to capture the refrigerant? How do I refill the AC? First vacuum our air, but how? My thought was to have a shop refill the AC. But I'll research first.
Dude, this is great...thanks for your time, and the effort you put forth to make this video! the only thing I need now is to get up and get her done! AWESOME thanks!
Very good sir. You showed me how to disconnect air conditioning hoses with the quick connect disconnecters and the hidden bolts inside to allow the housing to slide out. Also the vacuum hoses junction. Thanks.
Thanks Buddy, your a big help. I need to do mine. I can't find a leak under my hood and yhe freon isn't lasting an hour. I'm sure it's the evaportor core because I can smell the freon out of my vents when I top it off.
So... how long did this take to finish? I am really tired of being without transportation on account of attempting to do stuff like this myself, and ending up spending weeks getting done.
i have a 2003 dodge ram 1500 that im about to replace the evaporator and was wondering if you have to drain the radiator fluid to be able to remove heater core with the evaporator core as well? or is there a way to clamp off the hoses going to the heater core that carry the fluid to the heater? very helpful video but just didn't see anything about this part and thought it would be useful to know. thanks for all the helpful hints and info in the video.
@chris brewer, was everything similar? im attempting a heater core switch on my '00 dakota tomorrow. and thanks for the video, this is liek the only one out there that shows the loication of everything, and the steps.
This video has been super helpful. Iam getting ready to do my heatercore. I have a couple questions? did you have to disconnect the hood lever, e-brake lever, and wiring harness over in that area under the dash? Also do you think i would have to replace the evap core since my heatercore was leaking? and finally, did you have to discharge the a/c system before doing this? thanks
Dam... 😕 I'm going to try cleaning my 2008 1500 ram BigHorn with core cleaner through weep hole first... Hopefully don't have to go through that... I'll definitely have to record every single step to get it back together 😂 Great video Bud and good luck... 👍👊
I have been €¥#*£=en with this project for 4 weekends and your video just showed me that bolt on the ground wire that will release the dash. Truly thank you very much.
This is a good video. I have watched several now trying to build my confidence to do it myself on my 98 Dodge Ram truck. Not looking forward to it but this helps a lot. Will be replacing the heater core also. I just have to figure out what’s causing my ac to only blow cold air through the defrost vents when I step on the gas so I can fix that while I’m at it. Any tips on that would be appreciated.
this is the best heater core video i've seen. i've got the DIY printed out from the dodgeforum site and my haynes manual but your video is the most helpful. thanks! one question... did you drain the coolant from the radiator & block or did you just put a pan or bucket and drain from where the heater hoses meet the core at the firewall?
Bro,thanks alot for the vid,three garages were going to charge me between 6 n 800 buck to do what you just did claiming its a all day job because they have to take the whole dash out,lol
I have a 98 ram 4x4 and had it filled twice, and couldn't find the leek anywhere, but noticed a bubble gum smell in the a.m, inside the cab. Which apparently means the evaporator is leaking. Leaked the whole system in less than a week. So question is, if my heat is slow to get hot in the winter as well, do i get a new heater core and do both since its all apart? Thanks,and great video.
the heater core might be clogged up. you can get a radiator flush kit for a few dollars to flush the system. but the truck should heat up as the truck reaches normal operating temp. so if its really cold, its going to take a while to get warm. these engines are really simple. and there is alot of fluid and metal to warm up. my 2008 pathfinder heats up in a few mins. i dont know alot about the newer cars and trucks but i think there is a bypass or dedicated system for heating up the cab faster. opposed to waiting till the whole engine is warmed up. i could be wrong. im sure if i am someone will correct me. try flushing it first that might be an easy fix, but if your going to pull the dash out you might as well change both of them. and if its not the core it might be your compressor...
is it absolutely necessary to drop the steering column? or does it just make it easier?? i mean can you still do it by skipping that step??? i mean cause it looks like you just might be able to maneuver around it . the broken line and the epoxy fix kinda spooked me, i know how very delicate the part is, its light, cheap, and made of nothing, its crap. if i remember correctly, from experience from over 20 years ago, i think you can just pull the cable off very easily, it just slides off, and you can put it back on later, when you reinstall the column. that was on a older model chevy when i was young, is it still the same on this dodge? can you just pull the thin cable off, to keep from it hanging up and braking off or getting damaged??? thanks for any info, i have this problem and im using this video to help me fix it
Thanks this will help alot my truck would blow cold then it would go hot . Then the other night i turned it on and it was like choking and i looked under the truck and there was water but now i no how to check it
When we pulled the quick connects, the right one which we pulled first, was apparently under pressure and sprayed antifreeze everywhere when we finally got it off. The other one came right off. None of the videos I saw said anything about them being under pressure.
Thanks for the video. Best one out there....I'm going to replace the heater core and evaporator. I have a question. did you have to disconnect any wire harness from the steering column and disconnect the emergency brake cable to allow the dash to raise back or was there enough slack. Thanks
Just finished the evap and heater core replacement this weekend . all went well as planned. Only thing I did different was I un hooked the shift position indicator cable from the steering column. As you said it can easily get damaged if your not careful. Thanks for the heads up and thanks again for the instructions. Joe
You are very patient my man,,, what a pain in the ass job !!! Any work, under a dash sucks ! Especially if you have a bad back, like I do ! But, by your professionalism, you make it seem not so bad ! TY Very much ! I have a 2002,,, are they about the same ? 😁✌
nice job man!!! gotta do one soon myself thanks for the nice video but the one I gotta do is on a 94 gmc sl truck probably the same procedure or close.
Is it necessary to pull the box in order to change the heater core? I have the dash pulled and the old core is out, not sure if i can fit the new one without pulling the box loose.
great job on video , ive searched through tens of them in prep of doing my 2000 dodge truck heater core and this is by far most help . ive been reading up on internet and i can add ive found what sounds from forums to be the good four seasons heater core at amazon.com for $72 , it has the non moving tubes that i guess you cant install unless you disconnect ac which many dont want to do . but im not sure if have to undo ac so dont take that comment as fact as ive never done this heatercore before
just out of curiosity how did you know to go to that. The reason I ask is, the volume of air my A/C puts out is very Low, as if the evaporator is stopped up.(which doesn't surprise me since it has been used to farm out of since day 1) but, my driver side floor board stays wet also. and I keep it in the carport so I know its not a rain leak. and the only (fluid) line that runs in the truck is a Fuel Pressure gauge for my VP44. (dodge guys, you know what I'm talking about) so that pretty much narrows it down. But before I go into "dash-DEMO-mode" I was just wondering how you came to that diagnosis.
@Stump king, This may be too late for you but found my recirc / outdoor air door broken and laying on blower inlet, low to almost no air, months later the evap gave out so i will be going this repair soon, thanks for video Charles Moebes.
Man. Now that I see what all has to be done, as a guy with no driveway or garage anymore (apartment) I'm real tempted to go ahead and pony up the $850 quote my fav mechanic gave me. I guess I'm at least thankful for that! LOL
Someone replaced my heatercore and evaporator, but I still have no heat. Dealership seems to think they may have put the blower motor in backwards. Is that possible. Thanks for the video.
I don't think that it is possible to put the blower in backwards. If they did you could turn it on high and see if you feel air blowing out just below the windshield wipers. I'm not sure why you would not have heat. The engine creates heat.
Charles Moebes The dealership removed the blend door actuator, saying it is bad but not the problem. I currently have it all pulled apart and see nothing wrong.
