Great demonstration on how to remove from plexiglas. I find the hard surfaces pretty easy to remove from as well. It’s removal from the membranes without damage that cause the trouble.
HEY! THANKS MAN!! Everyone shows how to apply this stuff, but your the first I've seen who has demonstrated how to remove it! And I appreciate your efforts to try several cleaning liquids for cleanup!
Excellent. Great demo, thank you Tito. A word of caution to you married men out there: The Rusk hair dryer is a special ionized hair dryer that runs $60 - $160 plus tax. If you think this is not worth it, try using a cheap hair dryer and watch how your hair flies with static electricity. They also die young. The Wagner heat gun costs $22 and delivers much more heat than air. If you value your marriage, use that instead. If my husband used my pricey hair dryer, it would feel to me, like I used his Mercedes for construction work. The marriage will be on rocky ground and you would be in the dog house for a while living on fast food.
Between scraping and solvent, use duct tape. Press the duct tape down on the EB residue and pull straight back off. The duct tape will lift off a lot of the EB residue. Use fresh duct tape as needed. The duct tape method really helps on rough surfaces and even fabrics and carpet. I was able to remove some EB “sticky stuff” from my carpet.
Gorilla tape worked great ! I used it on the door panel of a car with a textured surface warming it with a hair dryer on low setting then 'plucking' the residue off with Gorilla tape. It all came off easily with no need for a solvent. It was perfectly clean. Thanks for the video and thanks for the useful comments about using duct tape. Job done and no mess.
Thank you. This tutorial saved me a lot of experimenting and error. One thing to mentions, the solvents you suggested, and others, need eye protection and adequate ventilation.
Man, what a great video! I used a plastic razor blade to scrape the left behind residue and followed that up with mineral spirits in a microfiber applicator block and it all came right off. I thought I had ruined my RV by putting this tape on the paint to cover a broken window, but it was a breeze.
I recently had to use Eternabond tape to repair some leaky seams on my front cap. The tape worked awesome in stopping the leaks, but looks awful on the side of my camper. I have been loathing the removal task that lies ahead, so this helps out a lot.
About cleaning the residue - one thing you didn't mention is that petroleum distillates should absolutely not be used on TPO roofs, as it will basically destroy it. So gasoline is absolutely a no-no. I was surprised that the Eternabond web site, which suggests the same techniques as you do (loosen with heat, etc.) they also don't mention the dangers of using certain solvents on RV roofing materials.
Eternabond tape is certainly a great product for hundreds of DIY uses and certainly RV projects. Removing it is possible but I have done it and it is a slow and steady process. Heat is definitely the trick to get the bulk of it up. Great video as usual.
I love your videos, Brian. They are so helpful. When my flexible solar panel prematurely failed after less than a year, I was dismayed about how hard removing the eternabond would be. I am less dismayed now...though not less annoyed at the failed solar panel. :(
Yeah. It's still a sticky process, but certainly doable. I'm fortunate having several extra solar panels for testing and educational purposes. Still, failures are a real bummer and I feel your pain. This is why I don't permanently mount them anymore with eternabond. I need them to be easily removable. Thanks for the comment.
im about to add it to my fence to close a gap where the panels overlap for my dog to stop attacking neighbours dog and stop cutting her nose up glad i found this video incase i need to remove it
Very well produced Video! TY so much. " Gas " Never would of guessed, amazing. Thanks for doing the research for us. Eterna bond in the 1 foot wide 50 foot roll is about to become a close friend to our very corroded aluminum roof. I know its a temp fix and will lock in moisture, but the 82 over hang needs a complete rebuild in the near future, but I just retired and would like to find the rolled aluminum before I start. lol
For most any kind of sticky glue, just about any kind of oil should work, i.e. Pam, WD-40, etc. It won't work as fast as your gasoline idea and you might have to let it sit for a bit, but I would be surprised if the oil didn't work. Love your videos - thank you!
Tito, like the vid. Your style is cool, and you crack me up! Yeah, the gasoline is a little extreme. I'll give it a shot anyway, just for the heck of it. Since we're into the chemical thing here, I'll mention that I had great success removing gooey stuff (after removing a BUNCH of decals) with Professional-Grade Goof Off.
About a dozen years ago I put Eternabond Tape over all the seams on the roof of my RV and now the plastic top is delaminating from the adhesive/sealing stuff. I was careful to super clean the surfaces before applying the tape and it is still solidly stuck onto the places I put it. For a bit of background, the roof on my RV is aircraft aluminum, not fiberglass or the rubberized stuff. Based on my observations, I wouldn't use Eternabond as my primary joint sealer for the roof of my RV. Instead, I'd go with self leveling lap sealer and then after that has completely cured apply Eternabond or an equivalent product. As a final thought: A hair dryer might be okay for softening up this tape on clear plastic - I found that I needed to use my heat gun on its highest setting along with a metal putty knife to take up the majority of the Eternabond tape. I needed to replace a roof vent and this is what I found that worked best for me. Cheers.
WARNING! You could severely damage your camper if you don't do this extremely carefully. Here is why: If you apply heat like that to a campervan or caravan, you run the risk of melting the insulation foam underneath the aluminium skin of your camper, which would result in a spot in your roof or wall that is now with drastically reduced insulation. In addition, the firm bond between the aluminium skin and the foam layer that is underneath that skin is vitally important for the structural integrity of your camper, so you are also structurally weakening your camper if you melt the insulation foam. In addition, be careful not to pull too hard when pulling off the rubbery remainder of the tape - it is not very difficult to actually pull the aluminium skin away from the foam that it is glued to, which would equally weaken your camper structurally. Wherever there are sandwich materials, such as aluminium that is glued to foam, I would tread with extreme caution when applying heat or any significant forces. If you are not careful, you could turn a small leak prevention job into very serious, major damage to the structural integrity as well as to the insulation of your camper. I realize that this tape does need to be removed for some people in some cases, but be very aware of these issues, take your time, and go extra gentle. It might be a good idea to take your hair drier and just blow onto a scrap piece of styrofoam to see at what distances and movement speeds it starts melting - the aluminium skin will readily conduct the heat straight through to the polystyrene, and so the same would happen inside your sandwich material roof or wall, except you won't see it - until next winter there's a huge cold spot with lots of condensation, or the camper starts to become wobbly because of the loss of structural integrity. Happy camping! :-)
Goo gone also works. First you hit it with the heat gun. Then pull the tape off with a scraper trying to remove as much as possible with this step. Finally goo gone will eliminate any residue.
praying this works on Gorilla Waterproof Patch and Seal Tape I used it all over my boat to get us through the winter, now it's time to make the repairs and I can't get the darn stuff off!!
Would like to see how that works with some coming off the RV roof after being on there for a couple years. Sounds like you have done it. How did the RV roof look after that process?
I've had to remove a couple of small sections. Looks nice and clean when done. I don't think it matters whether it's been a couple months or a couple years.
WARNING! You could severely damage your camper if you don't do this extremely carefully. Here is why: If you apply heat like that to a campervan or caravan, you run the risk of melting the insulation foam underneath the aluminium skin of your camper, which would result in a spot in your roof or wall that is now with drastically reduced insulation. In addition, the firm bond between the aluminium skin and the foam layer that is underneath that skin is vitally important for the structural integrity of your camper, so you are also structurally weakening your camper if you melt the insulation foam. In addition, be careful not to pull too hard when pulling off the rubbery remainder of the tape - it is not very difficult to actually pull the aluminium skin away from the foam that it is glued to, which would equally weaken your camper structurally. Wherever there are sandwich materials, such as aluminium that is glued to foam, I would tread with extreme caution when applying heat or any significant forces. If you are not careful, you could turn a small leak prevention job into very serious, major damage to the structural integrity as well as to the insulation of your camper. I realize that this tape does need to be removed for some people in some cases, but be very aware of these issues, take your time, and go extra gentle. It might be a good idea to take your hair drier and just blow onto a scrap piece of styrofoam to see at what distances and movement speeds it starts melting - the aluminium skin will readily conduct the heat straight through to the polystyrene, and so the same would happen inside your sandwich material roof or wall, except you won't see it - until next winter there's a huge cold spot with lots of condensation, or the camper starts to become wobbly because of the loss of structural integrity. Happy camping! :-)
I posted a video recently to show you how easy it is to remove with a heat gun. Check it out: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-YY3kmCzDMcI.html
Have you worked with the Dicor Rubber roof repair membrane? I have some damage from a tree to my EDPM and was wondering which would be better the membrane or the Eternabond? Great video by the way .Thanks You
Brian, I have one of those multi-tools that vibrate, and they work great. I use the scraper attachment on mine. I have a metal roof so I do not have to worry about cutting through a rubber membrane. Oh did you ask Melissa for her permission to use that hair dryer? It is always easier to ask for forgiveness 😁😁😁
Great tips on removing Eternabond tape! What about getting the residue off a rubber roof? I had to use it to seal up damage from a hail storm in Wyoming but now I have the sticky residue left. Thanks
yes and yes it well giving what type of roof you have . TPO loves to just be pulled up . in the end there really is no good way of doing this and thats what the RV makers want
I suppose it could be an issue if you really heat it up. I usually just get it warm enough to soften the tape. It doesn't take much. Take it slow and don't be too agressive and it should be ok. I've used a bunch of solvents on my rubber roof and haven't had an issue. I'm sure to wipe it down and clean it once the goop is up.
Great video Tito! I have a self-inflicted problem and need to remove Eternabond from an aluminum surface to reseal some seams I covered up and wonder if you know if Dicor self-leveling lap sealant will adhere to the eternabond residue? I can't figure a way to test it without sacrificing a tube of dicor on another surface or doing the whole job with my fingers crossed. Thanks!
I wondered if someone would pick up on that. Thumbs up for paying attention 👍You're right, the Eternabond was not the best option for that repair and was starting to loose it's effectiveness after a couple weeks. It's all I had on hand. I literally patched it at a rest stop.
It's a whole different ball game to remove this off a hard surface. If it's a rubber roof like on an rv it's definitely going to be harder. There should be no reason to remove this unless it was an emergency patch. The only issue i see is if you use this on an rv around skylight or some other item on roof that will need replacing. But overall using this over lap sealant has been a better option for many. It will last forever.
I'm going to replace my fantastic fan with an air conditioner. The fantastic fan flange has eternabond over it and also some lap sealant. Fiberglass Bigfoot truck camper.
I just spent hours removing this Gray sticky tack stuff and tar underneath. My 1971 camper roof vent , I made a jig for my heat gun so I could scrape it off with a flat putty knife Then I decided to use a torch and a potty knife Both worked really well to remove this ash vault tar stuff, But I had lots of difficulty trying to remove this. gray sticky tack Once I put the heat away I pulled out some gas and a rag It worked a little bit I also used choke cleaner with a metal brush Not fun at all I wish it was a better way to remove that gray stuff
Great tips brother. One of the reasons I’ve been hesitant with putting this on was because I thought there was no way to get it off. You’ve proven otherwise here. I wonder if “Goo Be Gone” would work too?
I've got this tape on my slides. It doesn't look too bad, but some spots are loose and coming off. Can I just clean up the existing tape, leave it on and tape over the old tape?
Remove the outer white layer first leaving the gray sticky stuff. Then tape over the gray stuff. That's what the manufacturer recommends anyway. Good luck.
Great video and just the information I was looking for. Do you happen to know if this will work for removing Dicor? My sister has Dicor on the roof of her RV and it's old enough now that it has started to crack, and she's now got a roof leak. I want to remove the Dicor and replace it with Eternabond. I've used Eternabond for many years and it is great stuff.
Yes. I've removed lots of dicor too with a heat gun, putty knife and mineral spirits. Maybe this will help ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-YY3kmCzDMcI.html
I worry about using strong solvents on a fiberglass RV roof. I have to remove some EB to get to the holes I covered up with it. Will goof off work the same?
I haven't had good luck with Goof Off. Mineral spirits and turpentine are less harmful, but try out on a small spot first. You can clean it off really well when you're done.
Hey Tito! I bought an older fiberglass truck shell and the carpet on the ceiling was bad. I took it all off, pressure washed it and paintef the inside with Henry's silicone. 😮 I doidnt realize nothing adhere to silicone. Any ideas on how to remove the Henry's silicone? Thank you!
Are there other brands other than eterna bond that are good? I found a few as I'm looking at sealing All the way down both sides over my weather stripping and was looking for a little bit cheaper alternative, but don't want to put something on there that's no good.
Thanks for all the helpful infos. Just wondering if that technique is also suitabel for Eternabond sticking on the roof of the van. Scratching with plastic or Terpentine might ruin the lack finish...
You could. But yeah, on low. You don't have to get the tape too hot, just warm it up a bit. A heat gun has a bit more focussed heat and may get too hot which could affect the underlying glue on the rubber roof. Use your best judgement.
Wouldn't WD40 leave an oil residue? What if you want to replace the tape with new tape. Probably wouldn't stick? I've used acetone and it worked great! But be careful on painted surfaces not to use too much. Try to get as much tape off with hair dryer and scrapper as possible. Best way is to heat and scrape. Most will come off that way
WD40 does work good for goo/sticky removal, but I haven't used it for this. It would probably work though. Plus, a can of turpentine or mineral spirits will go a lot further for around $3.
Leave it up to Tito to school Us all. Have you tried denatured alcohol give that a try please i’ve used it to get rid of all kinds of nasty 3M adhesive 👍👊😎
Hey Tito! What if you have a rubber roof material? I was told to not use petroleum based products on rubber or it could soften and weaken the rubber roof material... Thanks, Jim
I don't recommend using gas or turpentine on a TPO or rubber membrane type roof, it will cause damage to the membrane. Eternabond has an excellent cleaner just for that purpose.
Thanks for the input but could you please elaborate on "damage to the membrane". I've done quite a bit to my rubber roof in 11 years and haven't found a way to really damage the material at all. Thoughts?
Tito, there is a chemical reaction that takes place with the gasoline or turpentine when it comes in contact with the TPO or rubber. You would need to remove the residue very fast to eliminate any damage and use soap and water to reduce the reaction. You are very fortunate no issue have occurred.
Doesn't the method of scraping and chemical cleanup depend on what your roof is made of? A fiberglass roof is going to survive scraping and cleanup better than a rubber roof. I've used WD 40 for cleanup, it's not as quick as gasoline but it's a bit safer.
Using a plastic scraper and a shallow angle is the key on my rubber roof. The rubber roof is pretty tough. The chemicals get wiped off quickly. You could apply a conditioner after if needed. Take your time and don't be too agressive. I may also also sanded down the edges of the scraper just to remove pointed edges.
Not sure. But when removing old "baked on" vinyl decals, it helped with the underlying goo glue, making it easier to remove. I used it when nothing else was working to remove these really old decals.
