How To Remove Moisture From Your Compressed Air

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Parts that I used for my setup:
Transmission cooler: amzn.to/2tvqGhF
Brass flare nuts: amzn.to/2MZBWey
Brass flare fittings: amzn.to/2lAc9wE
Water separator (auto drains when the trap is full): amzn.to/2KiVmJj
Water separator (only drains when the compressor shuts off and the line unloads): amzn.to/2MnqfOQ -Good for low duty cycles
Water Seperator that I used: amzn.to/2IAxzYo (not cheap or easy to get)
Flare tool: amzn.to/2MnJGWB
Cooler Mounts: amzn.to/2Lg55zH
Tubing: amzn.to/2VSYUIE
Help support the channel by using my Amazon links.
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same.
In this video I show you how to build your own compressor aftercooler and cooling coil using copper pipe. The aftercooler will greatly reduce the moisture in your tank and air system. The benefits of reducing moisture in your compressed air are:
The aftercooler works far better than the cooling coil. If I had to choose one to use I would use the aftercooler. The tank will last much longer if your compressor has an aftercooler. A lot of higher end air compressors come with them as a factory option. They can be added yourself for far cheaper. Both the cooling coil and the aftercooler work on the same principle. When air is cooled any water vapor is condenced back into water. A properly working dryer system will trap this water an keep it out of the air system.
Questions? Shoot me an email at repairgeek365@gmail.com
Disclaimer:
The information, demonstration and any content contained in this video is for informational purposes only. The user Repair Geek makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the effectiveness or safety of the contents of this video. In no way should the contents of the video, including the tools used, be repeated or tried by anyone. Viewers should only seek the help of a trained professional located at a licensed auto repair shop for any fix, modification, alteration, or any change to their vehicle. Repair Geek shall not be liable for any injury, damage, or loss to any person or property that may result from use of the tools, equipment, or any content contained in this video. In addition, there is no way to guarantee that the video is not altered or modified or is not in the final form submitted by Repair Geek and therefore, Repair Geek does not warrant that the video is unaltered or not modified. The links on this video to products are for informational purposes only and in no way are an endorsement of the safety or effectiveness of the particular product. Viewers understand that anything contained in this video or linked to or from this video is the sole responsibility of the viewer and in no way provides an express or implied warranty as to the safety or effectiveness of any linked tool, product, or video. Therefore, viewer agrees to release, waive, and discharge Repair Geek or anyone affiliated with Repair Geek, from any and all liability, claims, demands, actions, and causes of action whatsoever arising out of or related to any loss, damage, or injury, including death, that may be sustained by the viewer, or to any property belonging to viewer, regardless of whether the loss is linked to the use of the contents of this video, or otherwise and regardless of whether such liability arises in tort, contract, strict liability, or otherwise, to the fullest extent allowed by law.

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24 июн 2018

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Комментарии : 272

@RepairGeek 5 лет назад

@rognegrete79 4 года назад

Wold you make one and sell it

@mattthomas1369 4 года назад

@@rognegrete79 What size fittings when i click the amazon link it brings up a bunch. Im guessing you used 1/2 inch?

@Sam-wp4ps 4 года назад

@@mattthomas1369 and how many of each fitting did you purchase. 1/2 inch right

@mattthomas1369 4 года назад

Sam I ordered -8AN Female Flare to 1/2 NPT Male Adapter AN Fitting BLACK off eBay it worked great

@mattthomas1369 4 года назад

You will need 2 of those fittings

@TexasScout 4 года назад

I made a VERY cheap "refrigerated" water trap many years (when I was broke) ago when I had a painting shop. I bought a 25' coiled yellow hose, fittings and a water separator like you have. I drilled two holes in a plastic 5 gallon bucket side by side at the top. pushed the coiled hose ends through them from the inside, attached the rest of the stuff. Then I filled the bucket with ice and water and weighted the hose down. Worked like a charm.

@oby-1607 4 года назад

Most honest water removal system I have seen yet. Water is the bane of any air system, hurts the air tank, tool and project at hand. Thanks for sharing.

@brucewilliams6292 5 лет назад

I am impressed with the delta T using the transmission cooler. Well done. I was thinking of doing the same with an automotive AC condenser and fan system.

@HavanaWoody 4 года назад

Good due diligence and applied logic. It's cool to hear you have subjected yourself to a lot of reason and experiment

@rickdavis7141 2 года назад

The only video I seen so far that took the temps like you did to to prove that is works. Thanks

@JB-lr9lx 4 года назад

2 things- The superheated compressed air won’t drop its moisture until it returns close to room temperature. If you put your coolers on the other side of the shop away from the compressor heat, it helps. The “fan” cast into the compressor pulley is a joke. Get a $10 box fan or 2, and mount them so they blow over the electric motor and compressor. That’s made the biggest difference on my set up.

@chuckspage3853 3 года назад

J B, Can you reach out to me ? I have a couple of questions about my set up. I thought this tutorial was well done, he seems like a smart young guy.

@mback12000 3 года назад

Only thing is, you want to cool before the tank to keep the water out of your tank. If the cooler is across the shop you are running pipe both ways. Agree on the small electric fan - made a huge difference for me too but I have it blowing on the aftercooler mounted right on the compressor.

@imkindofabigdeal4308 3 года назад

I'd add a radiator cooling fan to the transmission cooler to bring the temp down closer to ambient. Should improve performance (way more air flow than the compressor wheel "fanish" thing).

@mback12000 3 года назад

@@imkindofabigdeal4308 That's exactly what I did. $15 on Ebay for high flow fans. Note all those fans are 12v so you'll need to buy a power supply to run them, also on eBay for about $20. Wire it after the motor relay so it turns on and off with the pump.

@stepheneggert7388 2 года назад

I.e. fan on comprsoirs..to cool...I have a factory fan on the motor pully. To cool the factory radiator cooler..on my Saylor-beall..model vt- 730-60-1-FP.. A INDUSTRIAL type air comprsoir..I live in hot sunny FL. 100 h....all summer ..that is a life saver with the electronic auto tank drain..yes your fan helps..cool the pump..what Saylor-beall did ..to there units ..sold me ..its all made in America...no china parts..my unit wt.is 600 LBS.. and runs so quite..as well..they been around building air comprsoirs over 100 years. All cast iron pumps..

@conover1978 3 года назад

Great video! Covered everything very thoroughly. I like that. Plus a parts list of stuff used in the build.

@michaelflorindi3053 4 года назад

Thanks for taking the time for the links. Appreciate it. I'm not doing any car painting. But still have too much moisture getting past the separator. I'm going to try this without the copper. If there's still an issue I'll cross that bridge. Sucks as my pump pulley is in a plastic house. May have to fab brackets. Nice IR BTW. Big bucks!

@chuckspage3853 3 года назад

Very simple, clear tutorial. Thank you for sharing !!

@tyking1533 5 лет назад

First, Thanks @Repair Geek for the great idea, as well as sharing it. I followed this exact design method and can attest that it works very well. Once the system was installed I measured the the tank inlet temps, and comparing them to the outlet temp at the pump I've seen as much as a 175 degree difference between the two on a 70 degree day. Plus, even in the dry air of the western state where I live, I typically get a couple ounces of water in the moisture trap during a single tank fill on a 60 gallon compressor. This is water that's not going into my tank or into the lines downstream. This design works. I used all soft 1/2 copper, picked up a tubing bender which helped routing the copper on the compressor, and bought a flare tool for the fittings to the transmission cooler. Putting it together probably took me the better part of a day all totaled with a couple trips to the hardware store, but it was totally worth it. Almost looks like a factory accessory, and the secondary water/oil trap before my primary regulator has been nearly dry since. A couple weeks ago I was running an HVLP gun for almost two hours painting a fence. I lost track of how many times the compressor refilled. The water/oil trap on the compressor had pumped out a solid cup of liquid (auto-drain). The trap before my regulator stage had a couple drops of water inside. I hit the blow off valve on the tank and got what was probably an ounce of water.

@AN-kg4ei 4 года назад

it would be nice if the OEM offered something similar that wasn't a huge external cooler costing thousands. I guess it's planned obsolescence... maybe they own shares in razor blade cos.... Thanks for sharing this - great setup!

@tysonkahler 4 года назад

Nice and clean setup! Thanks for sharing the links.

@kirkbrode 4 года назад

Super helpful video! Thank you. I'm really glad you mentioned which cooler/condenser (the transmission cooler) is more effective.

@mback12000 3 года назад

Great video. I did the aftercooler with the same trans cooler (although I added a cheap 10" electric radiator fan) - absolutely fantastic results. That little cooler is equivalent to 16 ft of pipe!! (it's a 16 pass cooler w 12" per pass) PLUS it has fins. Air over the fins makes a huge difference. Now there is nearly zero water collection in my tank, lines or wall mounted separator - it all ends up in the separator before the tank. This mod is highly recommended. And it's much cheaper, simpler and more compact than the pipes on the wall.

@donsmith9081 2 года назад

Sounds great! Can you link parts used and pictures? Thanks.

@colindavidson6483 Год назад

That’s perfect man! Good setup

@lkj0822g 5 лет назад

I've been researching this topic for a couple of weeks (i.e., watching RU-vid videos). Your video is one of the better ones I have seen. I have decided to install a compressor aftercooler and water separator (thanks for the links) as you have and later decide if the copper manifold is worth the time and expense vs a desiccant type trap.

@jasonenz4238 4 года назад

Lee_CPA hey bud. Did you end up needing the copper manifold? Thanks! :)

@douglasthompson2740 4 года назад

Good point. I think I will give it a try. Using a 3/4" main line with 1/2" drops. Thanks. Doug

@NMranchhand 4 года назад

I like a good research adventure! BTW, I think you’ll find that the mfr. anticipated the air tank acting as a condenser and that after won’t hurt it if it’s drained daily through the petcock. Also, the most efficient use of your aftertank 50’ of rigid cooling line is to run it at a slight downward incline across your walls with as few 90 degree elbows as you can, with several drops along the way to collect and remove the water. This is more efficient at water removal than your up and down course where some air, trying to loose water, is forced to rise against a waterfall of 100% humidity that won’t accept it. Such a system is remarkably capable at removing water. But your experiments made a very Interesting and thought provoking video from which I gleaned several great ideas and enjoyed very much. Thanks.

@toddpaulsen1396 4 года назад

Great job and nice and compact. I could use this for my everlast plasma cutter.

@shanevision 5 лет назад

Ive been watching A LOT of air cooling system videos on You Tube. This is by far the best I've seen. Nice job man!

@RepairGeek 5 лет назад

Thanks.

@mikeconnor3602 4 года назад

I am very surprised the transmission cooler will hold that much pressure. Cool

@toddpaulsen1396 5 лет назад

I need to make one of these for my compressor. It would help consumable life for my powerplasma cutter.

@IthacaFixer Год назад

Great idea. Very clear explanation. Thanks!

@johnnycanosoda 4 года назад

Nice clean job!

@VB-bk1lh 4 года назад

I would also pay close attention to the tubing size of the trans cooler vs. the compressor outlet size, if the tubing in the cooler is smaller than the original compressor outlet tube size you may decrease efficiency and create more heat at the compressor. Also, if all tubing is the same size, I believe there may also be a greater expansion effect at the water separator which I think would cause even more moisture drop out. With the amount of water your getting, you may also want to consider a different type of air cleaner and longer drop tubes on the copper tube cooler on the wall. I could see it accumulating quite a bit of water if you were able to catch 2oz in that short amount of time. an all day run on a humid day may leave the drops overfilled on that wall cooler. On my system, I used a through the wall heat exchanger which I adapted from a commercial application, its basically a huge high pressure radiator with 1" tubes. I made a 2" diameter, 30" long drop below it to catch and hold moisture with an manual drain. Every drop line in my entire air system also has a drop and a clean out valve beneath every coupler. Water get caught at all points but the most is caught at the cooler. My cylinder head temps on my compressor are no where near what your seeing but I'm running a dual pump Quincy with two 5hp three phase motors. It doesn't turn near the RPM yours does. The hottest I've seen on a 98 degree day has been around 171 degrees F. Both pumps are pressure lubricated and I'm running 240 psi into 210 gallon air tank with an additional reserve storage tank on the far end of the system of the same size with its own water drain system and separator. At one time the system was running a full machine shop but these days its only for my personal use, mostly running a few machines and some painting. I have four dedicated 'painting lines' each with a charcoal canister and desiccant based water separator and mechanical regulator.

@bobfarmer9733 5 лет назад

I used this exact transmission cooler on my set up. I originally used 5/8 copper tubing to connect from the pump to the cooler inlet, the cooler outlet to the separators and again from the separators to the tank. I was concerned about the vibrations being transferred to the cooler so replaced the line to the cooler with a stainless PTFE lined hose and the other connections with a 1/2 whip hoses. Galvanic corrosion played a huge roll in component choices here. I also added a 12v fan to the cooler to supplement airflow and ensure proper cooling during continuous duty cycles of the compressor during blasting. It is wired to run when the compressor activates. I was not aware the regular 45 degree flare would work with the AN fittings on the cooler. As of now my weakest link in this is the anodized aluminum AN to npt fittings connected to the cooler. I figured these would be easy enough to replace if they corroded to the point of failure. Stainless AN fittings are upwards of $75 each!

@bobbg9041 5 лет назад

die electric union or plastic fitting between dissimilar metals. Good eye! as copper and cast iron don't mix well together. I would not waste my money on steel pipe anyway. Just use high pressure rubber hose and no problems with galvanic corrosion. your weak link will be that hose as rubber dosn't last forever but it will save the compressor tank and help cut down noise from vibrations.

@wheelstandr 5 лет назад

I like your update (Not cheap or easy to get), so I bought the other one you listed. I also liked that it is easy to source new filters for this one. I bought a Parker regulator and a parker water filter for the air out of the tank. Thanks again for the video. This is the cleanest and neatest installation I've seen. I like that it has a (from the factory) look. I have a Kobalt 80 Gallon I just bought and wanted to get this on and done before putting it into service. Its a shame you can't get more compressors in this price range with these systems on them from the factory. 👍🏻

@jasonenz4238 4 года назад

That's my thinking. Plug and play! Not "get the compressor, order parts, spend 2-4 weeks getting everything set up, repairing leaks, spending as much as you did on the compressor"...I just wanna paint small parts lol

@ChappysGarage 6 лет назад

Good idea, I am planning on upgrading my shop with a big compressor like the one you have. Will look into doing this to help ensure the tank lasts forever (since I am not great about remembering to drain the tank occasionally!).

@RepairGeek 6 лет назад

You still have a small amount of condensation that forms inside the tank. I've had about a tablespoon sized amount come out of the tank drain. Just like a fuel tank of a car that's in storage, condensation will form inside a sealed container if it's left for a long period of time. You still may want to look at an automatic tank drain just in case.

@ChappysGarage 6 лет назад

Sure, certainly isn't going to completely eliminate condensation in the tank but will certainly reduce it.

@stevenJEDI3 Год назад

Great setup nice and quiet also

@AtlasReburdened 4 года назад

If you need the pressure dropped for the end use you could always utilize that decompression to take extra heat with it by adding an enclosed evaporator between the first cooler and the trap and dropping the bulk of the pressure through an expansion valve there.

@pjz318 3 года назад

Another awesome video!! I will definitely be doing this modification to my compressor. Thanks for the video!!

@jasonenz4238 4 года назад

I understand about 50% of all this. Great video, learned a lot! Gotta figure out how you mounted and installed that after Cooler! All this talk of flanges and degrees...I'm a basic nut and bolt guy lol. Thanks for helping me understand a little better! :)

@jasonenz4238 4 года назад

After more research I understand pretty much 100% of this video and realize now just how amazing this video is! Thanks brother! :)

@keithnoneya Год назад

When I was a kid my dad was a professional mechanic and I would go to the garage where he worked. There was this hug compressor in the back outside and where it came into the garage there were these two pipes that went up the wall. On the bottom was a petcock like you find on the bottom of a car radiator. Your system is very similar to that, and I was going to do the same thing except with a Semi truck radiator, I like your idea so I'm going to try it for my Media Blaster. Thanks for the great video. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

@fredericrike5974 4 года назад

One large mistake, that I think you distribution system video touched on, was to not run your long distribution system low, but run it high; run the primary pipes as large as practical (150% of necessary flow design at a minimum), with a slight down hill grade in the direction of flow. When you make a 90 degree turn, left, right or down, plan a drain leg and valve- Each drop point should come out of the top of your primary tube about 1-2 inches; you will have trapped most of the moisture remaining in the air in the primary- local drier/filters will get most of the rest. This method avoids the expense and complication of refrigerated driers, has no real moving parts (just the drain valves- which can be as small as possible"/economical) and uses no more electricity. I've built small shop systems (5hp/20gal) to large mfg (125hp/ 3x 80 gal tanks) and been very happy with my customers reactions. Including drain legs at most drops helps both actually and assures the port user they have safer cleaner air.FR

@skigdividerx4991 4 года назад

Great job!

@HavanaWoody 4 года назад

I have been considering piping my intake from inside the house were I run AC and dehumidifiers.

@SR-gt350 4 года назад

On the copper exchanger, run the 6 tubes in parallel by having a top/btm header then the velocity and pressure drop will be less to allow for more moisture to drop out. It will allow you to have one auto drain separator on the bottom header to drain moisture. Excellent job!

@dathonlawler81 3 года назад

Hey do you have a photo you could share if what you’re talking about? Do you have any socials where you’ve posted this sort of content?

@Jeff_Seely 2 года назад

Imagine six tubes, all running vertically and all tied together by tees on the top and on the bottom. Inlet of air gets separated six ways on the bottom and the outlet receive that air at the top. The idea is to slow down the flow rate of air by splitting the total flow into six separate vertical pipes. Much like a header on an engine but with reverse flow rate. Then just tie the auto separator down at the bottom, eliminating the need for expensive ball valves. Also this can be done in large diameter, large schedule PVC or PEX for reduced cost. Makes sense now, my friend?

@talldrumgirl 2 года назад

Pvc rupture at 175 with water = leak. With air it can shrapnel so avoid. J

@anonimous2451 Год назад

@@talldrumgirl I've seen PEX done only once. But he did it to separate the water for painting he did not capture the hot air to condense and then re-feed his tank after the cooling radiator or Dryer system. This one done with Crimps makes me cringe. I know for how long its been allowed now, but, I am OLD School Solder the joints kinda guy. Everyone does what they can and with a budget but I simply cannot believe how many air dryer's I've seen done on you tube and NONE (almost none found 2 that did separate the compressor hot air to a dryer before returning to the tank) for nearly perfectly dry air, which saves on consumables in my Plasma cutter. Painting requires an inline desiccant filter and regulator. If one would employ BOTH methods the cooling radiator and the dryer lines on the wall and then return to the tank, adding in your favorite 3-5 filter kit inline AFTER the Tank works way better.

@anonimous2451 Год назад

@@Jeff_Seely What do T's at the top of the runs do for you specifically ????? I've seen a number of designs and most of them use the T at the bottom with 90's on the top and usually incorrectly install the T. The T needs to be on the 2nd, 4th, and 6th run of copper lines to form a turbulent vortex which helps eliminate the water to your drain valves. Mine are 6" drain catcher's. I've seen anywhere from 2-8" and anything less than 4" is too small. I sent all this back to my TANK and then installed a 5 filter / desiccant system to get pure air for my plasma table. Clearly this guy installed the T's on the wrong pipe and oriented incorrectly. Flip them to the 2,4 and 6th pipes with the drain under them and you have a better mouse trap.

@kw900lkevin 4 года назад

noticed you added a hour meter, good add on

@plumber77mjr 4 года назад

GREAT VIDEO! Very informative and I think you covered all the topics well. A few thoughts, I'd be slightly concerned about the copper cooling manifold, I was always told that airlines should be braised and not soldered. And the fittings you used are the pre-soldered or clamp style (??) I would have went with the regular style so I could pump more solder into them. Maybe on editing, mute the compressor noise and add background music! Is that an hour meter you put on your compressor? I'd love to know if that is standard equipment or an add-on, I love it. Again great job.

@plumber77mjr 4 года назад

PS Your disclaimer is awesome, you must have an attorney in the family!!!!

@shariqkudcs Год назад

The reason the aftercooler after pump is efficient in removing moisture is because the tube is preassurizing more than in tank or after tank. For optimal removal of moisture preassure is important, the more preassure and the greater the temprature difference the more efficient removal. You can also use running cold water on fins of cooler that would remove even more water. You can also use a vortex tube to cool the air and then feed into water separator but vortex tube will consume 6cfm constant.

@bluto1340 4 года назад

Thanks for the video. I fought moisture until I added an after cooler with a auto drain setup similar to what is shown here. I now can run my media blaster for hours, paint run tools or whatever and never have any water at the final regulator - ZERO visible moisture. Big side benefit is your compressor runs cooler. After cooler gave me a big temperature drop from the cylinder head outlet to the tank inlet. I tried downstream copper cooling coils but they were waste of money and time for me. Biggest bang for the buck is an after cooler setup. Need to fight the moisture as far upstream as possible. Trying to control the moisture downstream with only regulator filters and desiccant is a losing battle. If I had only figured this out years ago...

@akbychoice 4 года назад

bluto1340 I’m sure if he had used finned copper pipe like used in Hot Water Baseboard heating, the copper piping would cool and condense the moisture better.

@HavanaWoody 4 года назад

I'm sure glad to see the struggle of others before I start my journey. I have a opportunity to use an amalgam of these ideas such as substituting the after cooler for a manifold that can be ran into an existing heat sink (ground water exchanger) that is right next to my compressor. I have sought to find ways to control and utilize as many sources of temp difference required as I can in my place. Well water for Dehumidifiering in the shop and other semi enclosed areas is another prototype I have been installing infrastructure to use over the last decade's of evolution. IDEALLY I would use only one cooling device to run my environmental needs and a walk in pantry/refrigerator/deep freeze. All have been taken into account for every move while building my engineered homestead. Patience has been rewarding. If nothing else I'm having a pneumatic blender and air lines across my entire place maybe even the bathrooms

@HavanaWoody 4 года назад

Addendum: I am researching Amish pneumatic development for domestic use as well I'm really curious to how much compressed volume can make that a viable if not eccentric alternative energy storage system

@jasonenz4238 4 года назад

Havana Woody interesting!

@juancortez4428 3 года назад

Very good idea I did something similar but that's already made!

@SteveWrightNZ 4 года назад

You can also use the waste heat from the compressor to reheat the air, raising the RH.

@rsz90182 Год назад

That is great work. I am doing a much smaller setup than you but will be using a water remover by Hypertherm. I hope that I don't get water out. But I like that you remove the water before the air goes into the tank prolonging the life of the tank also.

@trent308 3 года назад

This is what I was looking for, the results before n after. I was about to drop $150+ on just copper tube before fittings, traps, n valves but the trans cooler set up is obviously much better initial solution >sand blast cabinet, paint gun etc. What occurred to me though is why not pull an AC condenser out of a school bus or something as they are designed specifically to "condense"? Might b fitting issues to work out but those are easy, can u think of any initial drawbacks to an AC condenser? Thank you for the direction!

@wheelstandr 5 лет назад

Great video.

@igornapoleao4120 4 года назад

Great lecture and a superb clip! Could you please let us know what the compressor air flow and pressure is ? Mine, a reciprocating compressor, works at max 20 cfm @ 80 psi, do you think it could work? Thanks for your kind assistance! In principle I am only interested in cooling the air since it is used for pumping out drinking water from a well. Eager and needy to start your simple and clever project!

@RepairGeek 4 года назад

My compressor is 16 CFM at 175 psi. The cooler should support 25-30 CFM. At that point I would start looking into a cooler with larger tubes.

@ralphwaters8905 4 года назад

It's all about lowering the dew point of the "saturated" water vapor in the line. Your intercooler is a good idea, and will lower the temperature of your tank, therefore the water content of your air. I painted my car by running high-pressure air from the compressor tank thru a 50-ft coil of 3/8" copper tubing submerged in a tray of ice/water, then thru a filter/separator and finally the regulator. This setup would be impractical for regular use, but in my case it worked very well.

@marzsit9833 3 года назад

i did something similar at a shop that i worked at years ago. we had very bad moisture problems but the owner refused to pay for a refrigerated air dryer, but gave us the ok to put together something cheap. the shop was located next to a bar that our shop's owner was good friends with the bar owner, we took a plastic 55gal drum, cut it in half and filled it with 50' of 1/2" copper tubing with an auto drain separator at the bottom of the coil where it came out of the plastic drum. each morning when the shop opened, we went next door with keys to the bar and filled 2 5-gallon buckets with ice from their icemaker and hauled it back to our shop. our owner paid them something like $75 each month for their ice.

@fethri 3 года назад

Thank you, i will defenitively try your set up with aftercooler. I m not a specialist but the second solution might also be a problem because likely to create Legionnella ! Again i did not verify my thoughts on that but but better safe than sorry.

@Ottomannkahuna 3 года назад

I’ll use your purchasing codes and support your channel ✊🏼🇺🇸

@ElrodsGarage 4 года назад

I like it. When I upgrade my compressor, I want to do this setup.

@randalrobinson3424 4 года назад

Good video. Reporting the temperature of the air in the room would have increased the relevance of the compressor temperature readings.

@darkshadowsx5949 4 года назад

i dont know your setup but you can make your cooling coil colder by adding a respectable restriction on the input and a expansion chamber on the other side. the expansion of the gas after the restriction will cool the air down more. its also a part of how AC works. they have expansion chambers to increase efficiency.

@bobb7494 4 года назад

only problem with that is restricting air flow (adding pressure drop) from the compressor, exactly what you should be trying to avoid

@bobw3677 5 лет назад

I have an after cooler on my compressor but the only transmission coolers I could find were not threaded. I have been looking for threaded fittings on an affordable cooler with no luck. I had to use compression fitting and they keep breaking. I am going to try the after cooler you recommended. It has threads and should be a big improvement.

@RepairGeek 5 лет назад

I hope it works for you. Other people that have watched this video have used it with success as well. I personally have had zero issues in the 6 months or so it's been installed.

@nofncsfish 4 года назад

Great video. In the link it shows 3/8 rolled copper. I dont see where you used it.

@impsquared 4 года назад

very cool!

@RichMenzel 4 года назад

How do you make the connection from the copper pipe to the filters, some kind of swivel fitting? Great video, thanks for sharing.

@RepairGeek 4 года назад

You need an adapter that goes from NPT to flare. Home Depot and Lowe's have them in stock.

@rodjustinecorona4501 2 года назад

Great job man ! So are running cooling coil and after cooler at same time ?

@michaelglass1386 4 года назад

Nice. I wonder if a Salvaged AC Condensing coil and fan could be used as an "intercooler"... A lot more finned surface area on those.

@ralphwaters8905 4 года назад

An automotive condenser could easily handle the pressure, but the diameter of the tubing might impede your flow too much if your compressor is very large.

@immanutt4442 Год назад

my theory is to use top connections as the air inlets allowing condensate to cascade to bottom for blow down/drain off at both the after cooler and coil setup .

@yougayism Год назад

thank you i missed thermo dynamics in school i guess ..... now im thinking i should put tubing in the walls of the concrete pit I'm making for my shop n put a collector at the bottom

@yougayism Год назад

thermo mass n so forth

@bryanandersen2657 3 месяца назад

The aftercooler maybe dropping your discharge air to a 15 degree delta T but what is doing the job is your coalescing filter. DO NOT use a desiccant dryer after a reciprocating compressor they cannot handle the oil vapor and will clog the media. You are also just reducing the heat load, but the moisture is still entrained into the system. The only way you can "remove" moisture is by reaching a minimum of a 38 degree dew point.

@HauntedBranch 3 года назад

I would hookup the wall cooler between the Transmission cooler and the water separator auto drain

@georgebear4557 4 года назад

Nice job! I need that set up for my plasma cutter. Just a bit concerned about the pressure rating of plumbing pipe. Please don't think I'm berating your achievement, I'm just worried that you might have an explosion when you turn the regulator up.

@RepairGeek 4 года назад

Thanks for the concern but regular 3/4 copper plumbing pipe is rated to over 700 psi. www.homedepot.com/p/Cerro-3-4-in-x-10-ft-Copper-Type-M-Hard-Temper-Straight-Pipe-3-4-M-10/100354200

@jgiajnorio 5 лет назад

best video so far, I've tried a couple condenser coils and have had issue getting fittings, only to hate the restrictions it puts on my pumps. im returning everything and ordering this. i used the links you provided, just wondering exactly what fitting fit the AN fitting on the cooler. I may user a braid flex hose instead of going rigid copper

@RepairGeek 5 лет назад

It's a 1/2 brass flare nut. It threads right on to the AN fittings. Supposedly AN fittings are a 37 degree flare and the brass fittings are 45 degree. On paper it shouldn't work, I realize that. So far I haven't had any leaks connecting the two together. Flare the copper tube and use the bass flare nut to hold the tube to the cooler. I didn't spend a lot of time on the fittings because the odds on someone having the exact same compressor as mine are slim at best. Thanks for supporting the channel by using the links. It means more than you may realize.

@jgiajnorio 5 лет назад

How did you mount your cooler to the cage?

@RepairGeek 5 лет назад

I used these: amzn.to/2Lg55zH

@douglasthompson2740 4 года назад

Did you notice any reduction in flow with the transmission cooler in line? Most I have seen run a fairly small tubing size. I would also wonder just what their working pressure is rated at? Most interesting setup, something I would consider for my own compressor if the above two questions were satisfied. I know my setup is highly inefficient as I get no water at my filter at all after years of operation and I monthly drain the bottom of the tank and usually get only three or four ounces of water. This is with a fair amount of use certainly not extreme and in a very humid climate. Thanks for the informative video. Doug

@RepairGeek 4 года назад

The short answer is no it will not restrict air flow as long as the filter is not pugged. Here is why: A straight 1/2" I.D. pipe will flow over 50 CFM @ 100psi. The water separator is rated at 65CFM. The cooler admittedly does not have a flow rating but, even if it's half of a regular 1/2" I.D. pipe that's still over 25CFM. The compressor will only put out around 15CFM @ 100psi. By that logic, my setup has at least another 10 CFM of capacity before the compressor becomes restricted. Also, shown in the video my temperature readings did not drastically increase on the compressor head which would indicate a restriction.

@bimmermavenwrench1660 3 года назад

@@RepairGeek enjoyed video thanks. for future planning, air flow by pipe size chart: www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.engineeringtoolbox.com%2Fdocs%2Fdocuments%2F1280%2Fcompressed-air-pipeline-capacity.png&imgrefurl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.engineeringtoolbox.com%2Fair-flow-compressed-air-pipe-line-d_1280.html&tbnid=ndHwZLGizwYSEM&vet=12ahUKEwjvrOiw1J7rAhXPRawKHZSIDWAQMygHegUIARDEAQ..i&docid=C68WUWE3Vjgr8M&w=635&h=858&q=cfm%20pipe%20size%20chart&ved=2ahUKEwjvrOiw1J7rAhXPRawKHZSIDWAQMygHegUIARDEAQ 1/2 in pipe around 53 cfm@100 psi; 1/4 in pipe around 14 cfm thanks

@gavins9021 2 года назад

I'm building a similar set up thanks to your inspiration, I have the almost identicle IR compressor 5hp 2 stage. My compressor had a 5/8" copper line between the pump and tank from factory. Didn't you have the same size tubing? didn't that make plumbing a pain when using 1/2" tubing?

@mrmotofy Год назад

His seems really quiet, is yours too?

@gavins9021 Год назад

@@mrmotofy Yes- I also made a "muffler" out of a 180 degree dryer duct lined with rockwool for the air inlet side, that cut the sound down considerably. Well worth the effort.

@Tyler-789 5 лет назад

Do you have a way of emptying the condenser of water buildup I saw another video and he added a ball valve to the transmission cooler as well to empty buildup

@oldowl4290 Год назад

I would wager that if you used the copper system first as the pre-cooler / condenser and the small black condenser as the post tank unit you would get better results and may not need the small condenser grill post tank at all. I say this because the copper, being much larger in diameter, as well likely longer in linear feet too, has more surface area available to help cool the air. I've seen a few other people using the copper set-up only along with a water separator, and that was in fact all that was needed. I've been weighing the costs / benefits of either and while the copper set-up will actually cost about 33% more overall with the fittings and hoses, I simply think it's a better way to go, especially for larger compressors like this. I've also seen several reports of guys busting seals on these little Derale oil cooler units that have become popular and my guess is that over time the water vapor corrodes the aluminum enough to pop a seal because don't forget, they're actually made for oil cooling, not air. If you were to switch it up however, I'd want to sweat the copper joints. Id be weary of compression fittings with rubber seals that could become damaged over time from the hot air, especially at the inlet connection where the air will be at least 200F.

@mannyfilmsinc 4 года назад

Great video, thanks. Did you use compression fittings on the cooler? and you mounted it on the grill of the compressor, is the air direction going thru the cooler towards the compressor head ?

@RepairGeek 4 года назад

I used the flared fittings I have in the description of the video. It's mounted in front of the pump fan on the grill so it gets airflow. The direction doesn't matter as long as you aren't trapping the water in the cooler. Meaning, the tubes in the cooler need to be horizontal to let water out of the cooler.

@ronyerke9250 5 лет назад

Very nice. I was a bit surprised at just how long the extension on your compressor's drain is. I hope you don't snap it off. A shorter pipe and flexible tubing after a barb might save you a headache farther in the future. Have you gotten a cover plate on that electrical outlet to the right of your copper pipe drier yet? If grinder or other debris gets in there, you might trip a breaker, and that's an avoidable inconvenience. I prefer weatherproof outlets ( they have covers ) in areas that get a lot of junk floating around in the air.

@RepairGeek 5 лет назад

I made the drain that long. I can operate it with my foot that way.

@ronyerke9250 5 лет назад

@@RepairGeek I was talking about the pump drain, not the tank drain. Sorry about the confusion.

@JohnCasale 4 года назад

A couple of years later, how is that auto draining water separator holding up? There are a few dicey reviews on amazon.

@hunterday6552 4 года назад

Note: what he is trying to say is a standard refrigerated air dryer. That will get your dew point down to 38 degrees. Also you will need an after cooler on your compressor before sending air into the refrigerated dryer. Unless you have a high temp refrigerated air dryer... which is really just an oversized refrigerated dryer. Also recommend having an electronic drain on the bottom of the tank.

@kainduran3480 4 года назад

I defently need to get a kind of this set up but is it good idea if somehow attach a fan blades on the compressor it all ready turning ...what do you think..

@pinfishtrap 4 года назад

Would two transmission coolers work even better?

@pbaylis1 5 лет назад

Instead of the copper manifold after the air exits the tank, could you just set up another condensor/water separator?

@jasonenz4238 4 года назад

Same question :)

@douglasthompson2740 4 года назад

P.S. Not quite clear where and how you drained the cooler. Was the water separator down stream of it? Doug

@johnestenfeld3836 4 года назад

The best dewpoint you can achieve with this is going to be ambient temperature. The majority of the water will be captured by the aftercooler separator, but not much more after that. Every 20 degree drop is a new dewpoint and every 20 degree rise the air will hold twice a much water vapor.

@jasonenz4238 4 года назад

Hmmmm, what would you suggest? I'm new to most of this but really want to understand it all. Thanks! :)

@jasonenz4238 4 года назад

Anyone know of a video of seeing an after cooler being installed? Trying to figure out the best fittings. Thanks! :)

@chvydrptop 3 года назад

That Derale transmission cooler has -8AN male ends on it, I got the same one. You listed Anderson Metals 54014-10 in your parts list (Assume its the -10), and assuming you put a 45 degree flare on your copper tubing. Only problem I see here is that -8AN is a 37 degree flare, so I am not sure how you got that seat correctly and not leak.

@blakestifflemire4229 4 года назад

The fact he propressed all the copper

@davecollumbell4592 11 месяцев назад

Hi there is the cool air to cooler the cooler coming from the fan from off the compressor pulley ? thanks

@hsimp316 2 года назад

Can you show the copper hook up to the air feed

@chargerforme7773 2 года назад

Very well done! Question, I just ordered a 7.5 HP compressor which will not arrive for 4 to 6 weeks. My guess is the pipe going from the pump to the tank is larger than the tubing used in the transmission cooler. If that is the case, any suggestions on what to use for a larger tubed after cooler?

@RepairGeek 2 года назад

A straight 1/2" pipe will flow over 50CFM. Even if the cooler flows half of that, that's still 25 CFM. If you're extremely worried about it Y the outlet from the pump to the tank and install 2 coolers.

@chargerforme7773 2 года назад

@@RepairGeek Thanks very much for the suggestion! This compressor flows as much as 31 CFM so I don't want to cause any restrictions. Plus, I was thinking it would be nice to have a larger after cooler so your suggestion will achieve that.

@stepheneggert7388 2 года назад

I like your set up...I see u have an hour meter on your unit..awsome thinking..I have a a Saylor-beall unit..with a factory hour meter..and on the motor a fan blade to cool the radiator as well factory..built into the belt cage..I live in fl. It's hot....and high h.....in the summer months..my unit runs quite check out Saylor-beall on u tube..great video...love itpls add a magnetic starter on your unit..it will protect your pressure switch, and motor ..u have an IR...unit..it costs around 300 bucks .but worth it ..ask any electrician..if your motor Draws over 30 amps..or more..my American made unit is built in st.johns, Michigan..a industrial type comprsoir like yours..

@keithnoneya Год назад

PS how's the system working out, and have you made any more modifications to the system?

@YR7A 4 года назад

that is a incredibly quiet air compressor for how big it is.

@vanmassey6885 5 лет назад

I am late to this party. I have the exact same compressor and have my cooler mounted but have been stuck on what to do going into the tank. It appears this is an inverted flare. I was hoping to use hydraulic hose after my water filter then into the tank. Did you just use a flare tool and flare nut?

@RepairGeek 5 лет назад

On the tank side I used the nut from the stock copper line. I flared my new line and used the original nut. I've had no issues.

@Imwright720 Год назад

To much work for me but I like the concept. I need super simple plug and play.

@jamescole3152 2 года назад

I was thinking about this. It could be that your first cooler gets more water because it is first in line. The air dryers that use refrigerant above freezing is what I am thinking about buying. My homemade dryer using a freezer - Also I was thinking if you had a chest freezer and put a oh say 20 gallon tank inside of it. Run in and out lines into the top. And as the water freezes it will just fall to the bottom. So you would have to have a small drain at the bottom of the tank, but it could run up and out of the top of the freezer and have a valve or air blower on a 1/4" line after defrosting daily. The advantage to the freezer is the lower air temperature would dry the air to a lower humidity than a dryer that used temperatures above freezing. If you had a freezer that could get say 50 below zero. I am sure there is a table to see what the dew point and water content of the air would be at such low temperatures.

@jamescole3152 2 года назад

You may have to keep the in and out lines in the freezer about freezing. So they don't ah.............. freeze. Probably the in line would have warm air coming in so it wouldn't freeze. But the out line might freeze.

@jamescole3152 2 года назад

And you might pack ice cube bags around the tank to stabilize the temperature.

@walkertongdee 4 года назад

My concerns are that the automotive cooler isn't intended for all that pressure, safety issues and I need high flow with that restriction it will take longer tank fill time. But good if you don't use a lot of air.

@RepairGeek 4 года назад

It's a transmission cooler. It's rated to 300 psi. The fill time is the same. The compressor output is the same as well.

@stewartalbert3523 4 года назад

Good system , but there will always be a little water going into tank so drain once in a blue moon .

@cali_cal 3 года назад

maybe the after dryer thats tested here is better cause you have a filter on it?

@gavins9021 2 года назад

So I've been reading about mixing copper tubing and aluminum heat exchangers even with the smallest amount of moisture eats up the aluminum, thoughts. Also I've read that you shouldn't use tube and fin heat exchangers over bar and plate style because it restricts flow or CFM.

@RepairGeek 2 года назад

This cooler has copper tubes. Also, the cylinder head temperature did not drastically increase after the install of the cooler which would indicate a restriction. This as been in service for 3 years now and has been literally flawless so far. The smallest piping in this setup is 1/2". 1/2 will flow over 50 cfm. Most 5 to 7 hp compressors put out between 15 and 20 cfm, far from the limits of this setup.

@gavins9021 2 года назад

@@RepairGeek Hey thanks for the quick reply and good information

@jimmerriman6920 3 года назад

I've been thinking about building one of these "air dryer systems" as well. I have a question for you, would there be a benefit of having longer tubes at the bottom going to the 4 drain valves so that more moisture could drain to the bottom? Also, could this same system be build out of the plastic air compressor pipes or PEX that is often seen in commercial shops or large garages? The question is, are the pipes that make up this "air dryer system", required to be copper or brass? Both of those are far more expensive that PEX tubing. What is you opinion? Thank you.

@RepairGeek 3 года назад

Since I installed the aftercooler on the compressor the copper piping on the wall doesn't collect any moisture. If I had to do it over again there is absolutely no way I would waste my time or money building one. You use copper because copper rejects heat very well. This cools the air and causes the water vapor to cool and condense into liquid where it can be drained. Pex is plastic. Plastic is an insulator. It does not transfer heat therefore will not remove moisture nearly as well as copper.

@jimmerriman6920 3 года назад

@@RepairGeek Understood, thank you!

@sipthewater 3 года назад

All of that copper, coolers and stuff costs a lot. There are alternatives but you're smart to set that all up. Painters know.

@errolfoster1101 4 года назад

Instead of a water separator most systems just use a drop leg

@charliebeck1448 3 года назад

Did anyone ever use refrigeration copper y bends instead of 90s and tees to make a compressor air dryer just wondering if it would work

@tweake7175 4 года назад

One thing to watch is hhe pressure rating of the cooler. Most trans coolers are very low pressure rating. Oil coolers are usually better especially that style. Also the pressure rating is based on fluid not air. Air requires higher due to safety issues. Also with the water drain setup make sure there is no filter in it to clog up. A safety release valve would be good to fit. Otherwise nice job on it. Much better than most.

@RepairGeek 4 года назад

The cooler is rated to 300 psi.

@tweake7175 4 года назад

@@RepairGeek yes actually i think its 400psi for that one as its their oil cooler. However thats fluid ratings which makes it about 200 psi for air rating. Most trans coolers are only 100 psi fluid rated or less.

@tweake7175 4 года назад

@@RepairGeek its a good choice of cooler. See pleanty of vids of people using normal trans coolers or low pressure air con which is somewhat dangerous. Nice job. 😀

@91rss 4 года назад

a ft long pipe on the tank drain will collect the water vs letting it set in the tank. Automotive fittings are 45 degree and Hydraulic is 37, the term AN is obsolete now... with all that piping, how did you rig up the blow off switch, or does all the air in the pipes bleed off, where as before there was only a 2 ft run from the compressor head to the top of the tank??

@mrmotofy Год назад

AN is still used everywhere even 3 yrs later...looks like you're WRONG it's NOT obsolete

@91rss Год назад

@@mrmotofy In aviation it is, just because of thread engagement , but for general use, JIC is whats used. unless one wants to pay for AN.