I am old and i have been working on cars since i was 10 years old or so and i absolutely loathe drum brakes,its extremely ancient technology, disc brakes are much simpler,more effective and easy to work on, why they still use drums is a mystery to me, probably 30 cents cheaper than discs for the bean counters out there. That "special" wrench your dad told you about is called a flare wrench and they are made specifically to work on brake lines,one for the cutout like you said and because they are made to real close tolerances,brake line fittings are notorious for rounding off if you use a open wrench or anything similar,please only use flare wrenches, it will save you a headache, also spray your brake line fitting with some WD40 or kroil oil the night before,it will help a lot. The way you explain the bleeding system it could be confusing so you might want to add some kind of edit to the video, it sounds like you're saying pump 3 times then open the bleeder screw then floor it, that's not correct, the "floor it" part (or actually hold the pedal down is more appropriate) goes before the "opening the bleeder" screw part, besides that great video man, good you are learning this stuff when your young, thats the way to go and it will save you tons of money in the long run plus girls like guys that know how to work on cars.
u can adjust the pads by using two flat screw drivers; one to spin the little saw-blade-like-wheel and the other to push back a little metal plate that block that wheel in the back. You don’t have to take the pads out again for adjust back or forth.
In his case. The saw blade had some dirt in the threads n was stopping it from spinning. He had to remove it to clean. I had the same problem. When I put it down on the ground while changing the shoes it got sand in the threads
Why replace the entire wheel cylinder when you can get the rebuild kit from Toyota and just rebuild the original unit? All that's needed are a small hone and the internal components. Just hone the bore and clean it very well. The kit should have 2 boots, 2 cups, and 1 spring. This would be the way I do my rear brakes on my Prius. The MAJOR reason for my opinion is the defective Duralast clutch slave cylinders and master cylinders, which have not held up longer than a few months, and the rubber components seem to react to the brake fluid in an unwholesome way. This results in the brake fluid turning black, even after only a few months. I also had a Dorman unit that failed and had the same symptoms, including jet black fluid within the unit.These units were all made in China, and their quality control for hydraulic parts may not meetToyota standards. Getting the components that were made in Japan or where Toyota can supervise the quality seems to be the way to go for my situation. Just because a part has a lifetime warranty does not mean I want to take everything apart a second time (after only a few months) and waste my time replacing a component that should have lasted much longer.The Toyota internal components will guarantee the suitability of the raw materials and assure that the repairs to the system will last for years. Aside from that, its really an easy task to hone the bore and to install the components. Definitely less time than swapping it out. Doing it this way demands attention to cleanliness and detail, because all debris from honing must be completely cleaned up and sparkling fresh. I am assuming the kits to rebuild wheel cylinders and calipers is available from Toyota. I love your Prius videos and you are a good teacher. Here's an idea for a video: How about doing a R and R of the ABS actuator, and using Techstream to program the device and bleed it? There aren't enough videos on this repair and it's desperately needed, since it's about $3200-#3500 at the dealership to have it done. The part brand new is around $1100-$1200 with discount.
