one thing i would definitely add is primer and paint (before installation) on any fresh cut hidden surfaces especially on the bottom of the vertical, 22 degree piece, seen at the 7:30 second mark. after a few years, even if calked properly, the calk will break away, and it WILL wick up water like a sponge, especially on vertical pieces, - starting the fungus/rotting process all over again..
Thank you for your help!!!! Because of you, I was able to replace 10 sills and all the associated brick molds. I used PVC and cut all of the miters with a plastic miter box. Oh, I bought a cheap ($29) oscillating saw for removing the sills and tho it was inexpensive, it did the job just fine, even after hitting a couple of nails.
Thanks for the tips Chris. Ive got a big project coming up & im gonna have to fix a bunch of window sills at a house i bought. This was very informative!!
You made it seem easy for the DIY-ers. Thank you very much Chris for sharing your skills and knowledge. I know I will take 4 times, if not 10 times the length of time you took.. lol.
Well, he's not showing what it did to the interior trim, when he bashed the stool up and out. That'd beat the hell out of the interior trim. His demolition is rough, mighty rough.
Not to find fault, but I noticed you did not add sealer to the lower brick moulding,to stop water from wicking up and rotting.I learned this the hard way, I paint the bottom.
I've used PVC. I think its great for preventing future rot. I've encountered a few windows that have had PVC on them for a quite a few years and they seem to be lasting great.
Awesome video. Very instructive and I'm going to use this as a guide when I replace my brick molds and sills. I would have liked to have seen the inside of the window when you pryed the upper part of the sill away. It appears that you pries upward. Looking at my windows (which are a nearly identical design) the interior part of the sill looks to slide inward laterally instead of upward/downward. I guess I'll cross that bridge and figure it out when I come to it. Again thank you for such an excellent a d instuctive video. I will be watching and liking more of your videos.
Thanks for actually using sill material and nose. All the videos online just show people using whatever, 1x6, cedar, pine, and cut it into place. Windowsill is much better and easier.
I was wondering the same thing... He also cut through the shitty water barrier on the sill and didn't repair it. I guess its job security. That said, he did get in and out of the job real quick.
Noisy music is interference. No wrap, no flashing tape, no sealing/priming/painting of board ends especially. Those are reasons for so much rot before, and likely to happen again soon, after some rains. Otherwise, an interesting and instructive video.
Gotta be honest...did NOT think you were goona get anything done...BUT i was wrong. Nice job! Only question..what kind of trim is that that covers the sill at 6:26?
Matthew G Thank you. On the inside there is an apron and a stool. I think I called the apron a curtain in the video. The board going into the sill is called a sill nose.
Sad but true. I actually liked a lot of his work other than the fact that he doesn’t have anything to wipe his finger on to draw a clean caulking line and he didn’t end prime any of the wood so to your point yes that shit will rot out faster than the original slower growth timber.
You should glue, epoxy, or use construction adhesive on the outer part to seal up that gap so it can't get wet or that repair won't last 5 years. Even calk would be better.
This was a very very helpful video, I've watched a few of your videos and I've found them to be very easy DIYs to accomplish... or you just make it look easy, nonetheless thank you.
@@ChrisSilverman can you find thinner sills. The pocket windows we bought were measured to be a 1/2 smaller but for a few windows Lowe’s decided to make it a 1/4 shorter basically leaving little room to fit the window.
Matt, Great show. Got in at the end and knew you wouldn't see my comment so just watched to the end. Lindsay walking by at the end was funny. Surprised she didn’t hold the kids up going by. Lindsay, Matt is right, dont go to Ireland. Bad juju over there for you…. just kidding. Great place and the kids woiuld love it so wait a couple years.
Chris, When you removed the original piece, there was insulation that you pulled out. l'm watching you set in the replacement wood but you did show new insulation being done.
Here in Australia our window sills are made of a hardwood, I'm just replacing few that are over 80 yrs old ,by looks of the timber he's cutting out looks like pine or something very soft beside been rotten.
Dreadful, the gap on the bottom seal, right hand side was wide open. Rain would funnel inside the building i can not see that being water tight. Bearing in mind you are replacing the woodwork due to water damage.
Triangle cut is nice trick. But all 6 sides of that brick mold needs to be primed or you are leaving it open to rot again. Or use PVC - which has it’s own issues. Also, clearly you are handy and accurate cutting freehand with a saw on the ground or truckbed because you use one every day. For mortals, get a hand miter saw or get / rent a powered miter saw. It will make those precise angled cuts WAY easier.
Great video. Do you simply use place a finish nail into the front of the nose piece to hold both the sill and nose? ie: do not place any nails or screws into the top of the new sill.
Loved it but you lost me at one point. After you placed the new sill, you put in a piece in front of it but didn't explain what it was called or where you get it. It wasn't brick molding but wasn't just stock wood.
You can get the window sill and the nose piece for the sill at Home Depot or Lowe’s hardware store. There is a link in the description if that is helpful as well.
I just watched your video linked from another one and loved it! Easy to follow, I'm going to try it out! Also, I just realized youre in Raleigh!! I'm in raleigh too! I would love to learn more!
Hey, I have a quick question. I have a really old house, so I'm replacing the window sill as you did. It's a 7 1/2 wide piece. So I'll have to go with a 2x10 piece and rip it to match the size. My question is, would it be worth it to leave it at a wider piece to increase how far the sill sticks out, or best just to match it? Also, I'm just planning on using regular pine and giving it a good all around coating of latex paint before I slap it in, would treated lumber be better?
I tried treated lumber once. It wasn't the best because it had to be custom cut and didn't fit the best. It is definitely better to match it with the appropriate sill.
@@rustedhorsepower5132 You may choose to look at "Radiata Pine" as it is being used on exterior applications by Jeff Sweenor on recent episodes of "This Old House". It is farmed in New Zealand, trimmed each year to reduce knots and treated and sold in many sizes. If you only have one window to do, go with whats local, but if you can find a facebook page for Jeff Sweenor, you may asked him about his experience with it. He joined the This Old House crew on the "Net-Zero" house and a "New Products" home shown in season 40. The species grows in central coastal areas of California but its currently being planted in Australia but perhaps special treatment is used in New Zealand as it is close to the US Eastern seaboard. There are a number of suppliers signed up to sell it for this purpose on exterior applications.
@@rustedhorsepower5132 Depending on thickness and width, some use a quality stair treads in several common species as well. These are found at most any home improvement store sold each. Since New Zealand is just off the NE coast, it is easy to get product shipped into the states. Just don't forget the sill tilts down at 15 - 22 degrees but more important have a dado cut on outside bottom lip to break waters surface tension to allow for water to drip off. Use a saved cut section of the old to get angle and drip edge location to match others not being repaired. Also, use a quality oil-based sealer on all sides, let dry and apply a second coat. Using a silicone sealant inside to help seal water intrusion under the brick moulding and the siding. Tommy, from "This Old House" sprayed a low-expanding foam under the sill just as he was installing the sill. This not only provide insulation but as it expands, lifts the sill plate upward to provide a nice looking connection to the inside trim plate or stool as they call it. ASE Master Tech since 1978 / Retired
