How to remove "servo brake" ABS from BMW k1200 or similar bike 

Awesome! Glad I could help!

Thank you very much! the kind words are appreciated. and, yes i agree. Honestly, if i never touch another BMW again, i will consider my life to be an overall win, and, you can rarely go wrong with a Honda. :)

thanks man

+Denis Railey What brand of brake lines did you use and what length

+C. Douglas Booth Jr .Local supplier .Lucky earlier R1100RT ecu not connected with servo.Speedo from front wheel old type cable..

+Denis Railey Took my old rubberlines off & took them in to local braid supplier.In USA can probably order complete set from www. affordablebeemerservices.com.

The switches on these ABS bikes are normally closed as opposed to non ABS bikes that are normally open. Therefore he had to use the relay setup he used to make them work.

OK did some research. From what I understand it's an 3AN or M10x1.0 thread size. So four flare caps of that size will be necessary to cap off the ABS servo lines.

you really need to find a wiring diagram for your bike and go from there. i cant even begin to guess without looking at a diagram what does what. but.. all u need are the wires i mentioned. or....... since you have already cut it off, finish out the original way. hell your bike may even have the additional speedo pickup thing on the swingarm. hell you may be riding a honda.. idk.. you never said what bike. but yah... if u plug all of the wires back it will work. but it will also throw a fuck ton of codes and give you a check engine light type thing and an abs light and all sorts of shit. but..... it wont affect the bike itself... all you really need sre the wires i mentioned. and.. to unplug the ABS light bulb in the dash. take the bulb out.

Rizwan Mustafa hey thanks. actually i have a followup video about that, and, i talk alot about it in comments in this thread too. long story short, yeah... take the pump off, leave the computer. dont cut the wires or you will lose speedometer.

i totally would, but I threw it out not all that long ago. it was taking up space.. dang.. sorry... oh shit speaking of trash.. you reminded me its trash day in the morning. thx

lylepurian unfornately i don't know the answer to either of those questions. but watch the follow up video before you do this. there is a link in the description.

lylepurian actually the link is in the comments section. not the description

***** What to look for Hashem channel?I found no link

+Георгий Алания ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-EmFlhmVjKMQ.html

Thanks, I'll see, but I do not know English, I'll try to find someone who can I translate. Just say it is possible to do, what to say in this video?

once again thank you very much for your work, the whole world can see and repair their bikes thanks to you!

+Георгий Алания About your ABS FAIL: DUDE! just repair that thing! the servo pump has most of the times only the broken carbon things like most electric engines... not much different to a vacuum cleaner engine... with some tricks and the right carbon stick's and a few hours you rebuild that thing. And all is good till the next time. Cost less then $100! That is what BMW will not tell you!

Just install an inline pressure sensor in the brake line to activate brake lights. they work great!

I don't know what an inline pressure sensor is. I ended up changing the front brake switch to make the brake light work. I never use the rear brake so I just left the switch there. And if I ever do, it's used with the front brake so I have a brake ;light either way.

These are available from Mike's XS. I removed the switches & just connected the wires on the pressure switches to the brake light wires.

thought I'd ask. is it a euro model? and either way you still need a wiring diagram. or... i know for sure there are forum posts that talk about the different wire colors. i found one once where someone had the same issue. maybe something about a purple wire but i dont remember for sure. not trying to leave you hanging, but i keep asking for specifics like a wiring diagram or maybe which wires are different or something fkr me to go on. you'll still need to wire up those relays so your lights work. the voltages and amperages are different, which is why they use them.... but most bikes dont use relays for brake lights. you can look at the wires going to the master cylinders and write those down... thats 4 wires... then you can use a power probe to figure put which ones are hot when the key is on. then you can look at the tail light bucket and figure out what colors are hooked to the tail light. that gives you a great start. write it all down and compare.

but more importantly im sure SOME of those wires are the same.... which ones are missing? but physically look at the bike and the wires at the ends that plug into master cylinders and tail light.

brown is almost always ground on euro bikes .. "earth"... soil... dirt... ground.. brown... most japanese bikes are green... earth... green plants... ground... and they are generally thicker wires.

87a to 87a are going to be voltage in.... hot wire... keyed / switched power

and the rest of them either come from the brake lever foot brake or tail light.... i hope that helps... if you trace them back, you can put 2+2 together on them. but a diagram would cut all of the guess work out of it.

yeah i agree completely. i did link to a followup video which explained the same thing you said, more or less. and i also put it in the comments, and said the same to others who responded asking me various questions, in hopes that they see it and do not make the same mistake i did. i did what everyone else did and watched a video about how to do it and i figured out all the ways it went wrong after the fact, but unlike the other videos, i did post a followup video warning people against the mistakes. fortunately, many have watched it. feel free to watch that one as well, and i do appreciate the comments. also feel free to leave any other advice that may help others out. thanks!

It's a winter project of mine to remove the pump and see if an effective repair can be completed. I believe the problem to be with the brushes on the pump motor, or motors in my case. If that is so, then the only problem should be finding the correct size brushes to suit. I tried to get BMW to recall the affected bikes and replace the pumps, but they wouldn't agree. They did offer the pump to me for £340, (originally £1700) as long as I got a BMW Motorrad dealer to install it, at a further cost of £400, but my argument was that this was a serious health and safety issue, and they should replace them. Also, why would I want to spend that sort of money on a 13 yo bike? I may do a video of any repair attempts.

Philip Kilpatrick i agree about the 13 year old bike thing. as for the pump, a few different things go wrong with them. the seals go bad inside and pressure does not build. or the motor can go bad. if you hear it "doing something" then the motor isn't necessarily bad. as for swapping the brushes, i'm not sure if they can be changed on the motor(s). i didn't actually open it up to see what kind of motor was in there. it's probably a brushless motor, like most modern day electric motors. that's not to say you are wrong. fact is, i'm not sure. but, 99% of other bikes in the world don't have abs, and those that do, rarely fail, but, this bike is notorious for failed ABS, which is evident by the amount of views i get on this video, and the plethora of other videos on the subject that exist. lol. however.. it's been a while since i've posted it, and the owner has brought the bike back to fix several other things, but has not had an issue with the brakes since i removed the pump. but... the thing i'd do differently, and it's been touched upon in other comments and a followup video, but, you leave the computer in place, and eliminate the pump part and connect the master cylinders directly to the calipers like every other bike out there. That way you don't have do do all of the crazy wiring, and will still have a speedo, if yours doesn't have an extra part for a manual cable like some of them do. you'll have to snip a few wires and pull the bulb so you won't have a light on the dash. but. it works perfectly fine. you can find rebuild kids for them but they aren't easy to find and they don't replace the motors, just seals. and the only way you can find brushes for them is to figure out who made the motor and contact them directly. (may need to find a Chinese translator). But the way i see it, is if it failed once, it will fail again, and again.. and if the motors are the problem now, the seals will be the problem next time. and it takes a lot of effort to remove that thing every time something goes wrong. and it removes over 13 pounds from the top of your top heavy bike, which helps handling more than you'd think, AND changes the power:weight ratio.. just my thought. but please do check out the followup video. it's in the description. and thanks for the comment!

I have the brakes directly connected now, both front and back. The ABS pump plays no part in the set up now. The pump is coming out anyway, as it's just additional weight that is no longer required, but as I say, i'll have a look at repair, and if it's unsuccessful, no harm done!! I'll keep you posted. keep up the videos!!

M B l

technically it will work for any year make and model bike or car or truck etc that has abs on it... all you're doing is removing the pump. but you need to find my followup video which explains the negatives. . and read the description

maybe... but.. before you go cutting shit please watch my other video in the description.. it explains thst you DO NOT have to cut everything or do any of this and theres a better way...

here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-EmFlhmVjKMQ.html

Go to the brake lever. find the wire colors. go to the foot brake pedal. find the wire colors. go to the tail light. find the wire colors. find the wire colors that come out of your turn signal switch just in case. go to the loom. find the matching wire colors. google a wiring diagram, or do this visually........ i don't know the wire colors. if your blinkers don't work as is, then you need to figure that out too. turn your volt meter on and find one with 12v when the key is on.. probably a big red one or big yellow one with red... usually..... find a ground, or make one yourself. then plug them into the the relays accordingly. one relay is for front brake lever one is for rear brake lever. so, by common sense, one wire from the one goes to one and the other goes to the other. ground and power go to both. some of the wires in the diagram i showed don't exist because YOU have to make them to connect the two relays together..... off hand, i think they are power and ground only. but FIND A WIRING DIAGRAM so at minimum, you can figure out what the wires are that were described in the diagram i put on the video, and then compare to the wires you traced on your bike. blue may be purple red may be yellow black may be fuscia. i don't know. but if YOU know what they are on your bike, you can compare them to a diagram.There are tons of bmw forums and even forums for this specific bike that have 100% of the answers. in fact, they even have the wiring diagrams for every model and year. But that's pretty much the extent of what i can help you with.. if you do those things i may be able to help you... but... if you do those things, you probably wont need my help, and will learn a lot in the process so it won't be as scary / fucked up next time you try to tackle a pro level job... i don't mean that condescendingly. i mean that as.... electrical shit is not for the faint of heart. it's pro level work. so... if you figure it out, you'll be all the better for it. good luck

MB, I hope you don't mind me jumping in here, but if Lex just removes the ECU (it's retained by 4 secure hex screws) from the top of the pump, then disconnects the 4 wires connected to the motors, all that remains to do is remove the bulb(s) in the dash. That way the wiring remains intact, in the event that the pump is refitted. Of course, the brakes themselves will have to be plumbed straight from reservoir to calliper, once the pump is removed from the equation.

hey klob, yeah, it looks like you'd go from 1 to 17. do a little more resesrch before you tear your bike apart though. i do have a followup video that you should watch. you're supposed to unscrew the computer part from the servo and throw the pump part away. not chop the entire thing out like i did... that eliminates all of the weird wiring crap, and in the case of this bike model, it would have still had a speedometer. some of the newer bikes had a separate speedo pickup, which you could tap into. this bike did not. the speedo went through the brake system.... anyway, please look into it before you tear your bike apart. there are always unforeseen issues.

+Klob Toluca About your ABS FAIL K1200: DUDE! just repair that thing! the servo pump has most of the times only the broken carbon things like most electric engines... not much different to a vacuum cleaner engine... with some tricks and the right carbon stick's and a few hours you rebuild that thing. And all is good till the next time. Cost less then $100! That is what BMW will not tell you!

I converted my own. You don't need to go as far as he did though. Just connect the brake lines as described in the video, and remove the brake warning and warning triangle bulbs.

man that sounds like you cut the completely wrong part out or something. bikes vary by maybe 1 or 2 wire colors but not a completely different setup for the same exact year and model..

BMW sells a death trap tells its customers it’s their problem and it can’t be fixed except by them the same way. This guy comes along and takes the time to figure it out and make a video about how to bypass it albeit not a perfect solution in this video, but it was a start-where’s your video of the solution?

Bob Murphy well if you only unplug the electronics, you won't get pressure to the calipers. the levers have hydraulic pressure to the unit where a switch is depressed which activates the unit which pressurizes the brakes. they are four separate closed loop systems. the unit itself was bad, so i yanked it. plus it loses something like 14 pounds off the top part of the bike.

Just imagine the class action lawsuit...

Is there instructions or video of that?

I'm facing the same issue!! carbon? I haven't even looked on how to desable that thing... But great video! I will see if I get open the "black box iABS" to check for the carbon... winter project :P