How To Remove Snipe | All The Tips And Tricks Plus a Simple Jig 

Thanks Tomasz 🙏🏾. I appreciate this reel and shall be making a jig when I next use my thicknesser. Your teaching style is very clear and simple- exactly what I need. I shall have a good dig through your others to see what gems you have. RU-vid at its best.

Great video thanks from Pearland, Texas

Very entertaining information, stay warm, safe, happy and healthy. From Henrico County Virginia

Excellent work, Tomasz! Thanks for all the tips! 😃 Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

I just got an older planer restored enough to be usable. I found out right away that the infeed outfeed tables on the machine and the technique used is the difference between serious project ruining snipe or flat boarss! I got some perfect snipe free boards but it is NOT easy to perfeftly replicate the technique every single time. You are the second source I have seen to build a feed jig like this. So thats next for me! Thank you!

Thanks for your excellent synopsis on the subject of snipe. I agree that infeed and outfeed tables are a major issue . Solution of jig is a good answer as well as lifting up alightly at the beginning and 😂end of the tables really helps!

Great tip Tomas! Thanks

Solid advice right there. I like the idea of using the jig. Cheers mate 👍😎🇦🇺

Another gem Tomaz, thanks as always for making a helpful video, it's just got to be worth a try mate 5*

Excellent tip Tom I use the slight lift at the end method 👍

i have used the extended sled for years. with sharp blades, quality wood and very shallow cuts you can go to about 2.5mm

Great vid Tomas thanks for sharing

A great help - Thanks

Was talking bout this problem the other day with a friend.... Them boom... of course "THEY" were listening and as I was scrolling along ....your video came across with wut I needed to see...click on and now you have another subscriber ..head slapper ...simple jig to a big problem...thanx for making me feel stupid.. can't wait to feel stupid again watching your channel! 👍 Keep up the good work!

Great idea!

Brilliant 👍

Excellent idea Sir 👍🏻👍🏻I will be making one tomorrow

Enjoyed watching the video Tomasz. Tony

well done. I think I'll try this.

This is a great tip, I’ve been plagued by this. Can’t wait to try it.

Lots of timber laying around. I sense a big project coming up :). Thanks for the video as ever.

Hello Sir, just short addition to your solution. To be clear, I'm not opposing your solution and the next is not my observation/discovery (somebody else provided it). So, as you explained when the front roller is off the wood can rise. However, if you slightly (fraction of a mm) rise the outfeed table than the problem with good chance of success, can be avoided too because the outfeed table will try to push the wood against the bed. As well, it is important to lock the cutting head vertical movement - that is another reason we observe snipes, the cutting head can "twist/drop" when one of the rollers is not engaged. At least it works for me (having the same machine). Respect!

Very informative video Tomasz ... on cheaper machines the infeed/outfeed tables are definitely rubbish, but your simple addition of a continuous bed should mean even a cheap planer should work a lot better 👍

Thank you, as a matter of fact I have to do it in mine.

THANK YOU very much . I have not packed out my new planer yet, but I have read alot about snipes and how to fix it.....your video has been the best so far ......easy to understand ...simple explanation and demo.....compared to others. My only problem is how to adjust the thickness now since I am loosing for example 1/2 inch. Thank you again !!!!!!

I've found that feeding pieces in at a slight angle helps in a lot of instances for some reason. I try to enter the piece so it meets close to one end of the first roller and exits at the opposite end of the second roller. If you stand behind your planer and visualize entry and exit with your work piece, you can get pretty good at this. If nothing else, you're using the full length of your blades so they don't just wear down in the center. I've also adjusted my outfeed table up at a very slight angle to mimic holding the board up as you demonstrated at around 6:40 in your video. This also seems to help. If you can't completely get rid of your snipe, just make sure it occurs on the side of your piece that will be less visible, say underneath a table for example.

Nice instruction for the snipe, and of which many probably don't know as not own a planer as such, but should be aware of especially on hand planes. I own the Triton TPT125 and have had it for 6 years, with snipe for a few months, until I came across Stumpy Nubs idea and used that to remove it. I adjusted it for my own use. My own preference lies with a 9mm MRMDF sheet, in a very similar concept to yours, but not only using one stop block on the in feed end; I have another on the out feed end to keep it snug and very tight in movement. These strips are also cut from the same material board. My thickness scale is also adjusted to reflect that 9mm difference, of which has been relabelled to reflect the material, and only a loss of 9mm to my height. So much easier than trying to calculate as you do it at the time. 👍

set your infeed and outfeed tables up just a bit.. if you are going to lift your board to take care of snipe.. just tilt your infeed and outfeed tables up .. just a bit

Thank you, Tomasz! I think your emphasis on the flexibility of the usual adjustable/foldable infeed/outfeed tables on most portable planers as the primary problem is correct. That is rarely recognized. I still use a Delta 22-540 planer I purchased in the 1990's for a little over $200 then that came with steel, removable but fixed tables that clip onto the planer bed on each side. Once precisely shimmed to the exact same height, absolutely NO snipe with just the most minor lift of the wood on entry & exit of the planer. (Still necessary to account for the knives grabbing the wood before the following roller.) My melamine extension, fitting just over those tables and supported by them is therefore just as flat and works beautifully for longer boards. The result is perfectly planed boards. I added a Wixey gauge though rarely use it. If I ever care to, I can add a Shelix head for $400 or so. Even then, my simple basic planer can be the equivalent of any of the fancy ones going for $900 up nowadays. I wouldn't trade it. It may be possible to adjust folding tables as exactly but there's no way they can stay as rigid as fixed ones. Unless one needs to carry a planer around, I'd routinely replace them with fixed ones on the planer table.

What I do most of the time when I need several boards with the same thickness is feeding them with an overlap with the same sacrificial piece that goes at the head of the chain and at the very end. And that particular method is used only at the last run before I have almost archived the needed thickness. If the last run is used with minimal material removal, it also helps reducing the snap to the minimum. When it’s minimal, the hand plane will remove it anyways, and I still use my hand plane at the very end as it provides exceptional smoothness in just few strokes compare to significant amount of sanding with paper for the same outcome.

Thanks for the video! I have an old Delta 2 screw post planer, and I think the head itself actually rocks when the board leaves the first roller on it's way out of the machine, because there are only 2 screw posts which can't possibly hold the cutter head assembly perfectly level? I have noticed that adjusting my tables, and also holding the boards on their exit, has absolutely zero effect on the snipe. For these old planers, I think they either belong in the trash, or the scrap wood pieces must be used. Or some form of locking bracket must be inserted near the motor to stop it from rotating (probably not possible).

I'm glueing my stair steps now, and the biggest problem is with the ... oak weight. 90cm long, 26cm wide, 42mm thick is so blooming heavy, that after many trials with (in and out) feeding angles, I just gave up and decided to sacrifice the last 6cm on each board. (Makita 2012NB). At least now I will have no excuses to make a mallet, panzer-coasters or tealight holders :-))

Invest in a couple of roller supports if you're doing lots of thicknessing.

so then there is flex and imperfection in the factory tables attached to the planer if a solid board eliminates the snipe. You have proven your point it seems. I wonder if those larger industrial planers with the big beds have any snipe.

If after adjusting feed tables level there's still snipe due to table flexing, i wonder if a solution would be shimmed spacer blocks under each table. Would only work if your thicknesser is on a workbench of course, but in theory it should eliminate flex as there nowhere to flex to.

Tomasz, I seldom see such great videos with such great solution. I was thinking about one thing though: how come the new long plate stay stationary and not move. E.g when an oak piece exits the outfeed part, pushes down the long plane too, so its infeed part shold rise a bit?

Thank you Tomasz! Have you considered mororcycle jack for lifting system?

For the planer tabletop extension, I saw you add one stop block at the front, but did you add one in the back too? Thanks!

Hi @Casual Diy, How are you finding the Metabo? I recall you had the Triton TPT125 beforehand. I had the triton but wood shavings got between the blade (only 1mm thick) and the blade holder, and bent the blades significantly. I was being careful with it too, taking 1/2mm off each pass. So I sent it back. I haven’t yet replaced it but I was thinking of the TPT 125, but everything has rocketed in price since last year when I had the Metabo. I only paid £321 for the Metabo, and now you can’t get any thicknesser for that!

I have the same thicknesser, just wondering where you got the vacuum adapter from?

There was still snipe. Hard to see at the angle of the camera, but I saw it 😅

When I read the headline I thought you had a problem with a flock of wading birds.😂🥰

12:51

wszystko ok ale nie zablokowałeś dźwignią metabo takie moje spostrzeżenie mam taką sama

Or you could just but a DeWalt

Wild accent.

Hi Tomasz. I’m a late comer to your channel, but I am actively binge watching you. I like the simple no nonsense approach you have. You talk in simple terms and never assume the person knows what you are talking about ie no gobldy gook. I find your easy to follow dialogue so good. I have a query that you might be able to help with. I after either a planner jointer or a thicknesser, dilemma is which to get as a first time user. Space and money are an issue at present with the state the world is in. Iv’e been looking at the Triton TPT 125 thicknesser Planing Width 331mm @ £379.95, Scheppach PLM1800 152MM Thicknesser Planing Width 330mm @ £379.99 or Scheppach HMS1070 Planer Thicknesser 254mm board width £509.99 as of 18/04/23. The Scheppach HMS1070 Planer Thicknesser is out pf my price range. Basic option is the Titan TTB579PLN Planer Thicknesser Planing Width 204mm @ £199.99. Would appreciate your input on your suggestions. My man cave is 8ft x 6f shed at the bottom of the garden with power. Im UK based. All are either available on Amazon, Screwfix or Toolstation. My main aim is just simple DIY work. I would like to make some new kitchen cupboard doors and drawers from hardwood frame and MR MDF center, roughly around 40 units in total yes a rather large kitchen. Tools I have are 1/2 inch Triton router, Katsu palm router Bosch 1/4 inch router, router table, compound mitre saw, biscuit jointer, two jig saws, multi tool, Kreg pocket hole jig, MFT top with Benchdog kit and a plunge saw and extra rails. So not short on the main tools jut a plannerJointer/thicknesser. I’ve set myself a time limit of 6 to 7 months for this project as my wife has terminal cancer and they have given her a life expectancy of 12 to 14 months so hopefully she will see the finished job. I’ve taken an 18 month break from work to look after her, hence the funds problem. I will also be trying to source some Cull wood (lumber that has been pulled from inventory because it is damaged) from local timber yards to keep costs down as much as possible. See I have been listening to you Tomasz. A rather long comment but hope you are able to advise with your usual aplomb.