Like and subscribe for more! All parts, tools and more information in the video description. If this video helped you, please support the channel by clicking "Thanks"! Thanks for watching!
Basically, you go to a beauty supply shop and ask for hydrogen peroxide cream. It's like, 40% H202, not 3% like the regular stuff in a bottle. Anyway, take the plastic apart and paint it with a thick (but even!) coat of the cream, then cover with plastic wrap to keep it from drying out. Place in a sunny area for up to 24 hours. Wash and check, repeating if necessary.
I used to refurb copy machines...bottle of V-40 less than $10...could do the machine panels with just a few ounces...set out in the bright Mississippi Sun. Probably only took an hour or two to get the desired results with no streaking whatsoever!!!
Remember some of the equipment you may buy may not be yellow as a result of oxidisation. In the 70's, 80's 90's, many households were smokers of cigarettes among other things and youd be very surprised how yellow or stained things would get from the nicotine in the air. I had a white kitchen, white tiled floors, walls, white cupboard doors etc and 2 people were smokers, myself included. The nicotine deposits were rather bad. Not only would it coat surfaces but everything else in the house.
Yes I agree we moved into a house we thought we had to paint the walls. I watched Shannon lush on cleaning with natural products. She recommended washing walls with lavender. The type for cleaning not essential oil. You should have seen the brown grease streaks that came off omg 😳 after washing the walls with the lavender mixed with water we no longer needed to paint. I am from Australia and have a product called tricleanium which is amazing also especially for stove air filters. Cheers Jodie Melbourne Australia 🇦🇺
I’m having to clean my late sister’s apartment ready for sale. She and her late husband were heavy smokers - they both died from lung cancer. The apartment is thickly covered in nicotine/ tobacco tar. Once valuable books and artworks have lost most of their value due to cigarette smoke staining and smell. It’s a large apartment and I’m in my late seventies and can’t afford the thousands asked by specialist cleaners. Not much of a legacy from sis !
Superb. Outdoor UV Lux many orders of magnitude over indoor devices. Car headlamps polish out the amber as its on the surface use car paint cutting paste (tooth paste as a second choice), plus point you have super glossy finish when done.
Have you tried Brasso on car head lamps? (It's a metal polish) It works really well, a lot better then toothpaste. It can be applied every 6 months, it makes them look great! I have a video on it here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Znm17shIbaU.html I didn't get tooth paste to work so well, although it did a little.
For even UV exposure, one possibility that came to mind was to place the container in sunlight on an electric rotating display stand. They are readily available and not expensive? BTW, thanks for sharing this. Very interesting. I have had limited success cleaning plastics with household bleach. Although it improved appearance, it was quite patchy. This H2O2 and even UV exposure method looks more promising.
Thank you it really worked. I have old air conditioner and interior unit was really yellow, now is almost white after 24 hours. I just sprayed hydrogen peroxide on the surface and then wrapped it with transparent foil and let it be that was all. If i wanted to have it really white then i can repeat the process. UV light is not necessary for this . Thank you sir
You do not need UV-light. You need just energy to do the process. I retrobrightened a lot of commodore Amiga stuff using 11.9% H2O2 in a conceiled plastic container I simply put into my oven (65 to 70 °C for 3 h). Worked perfectly. Only downside: most oven at home are not big enough if you want to retrobright a computer case this way. So I have done mostly Amiga tank mice and keycaps this way. Be carefull: Prints on plastic (like the labeling of keycaps) are often done with "pad printing", covered by a transperent layer. This is destroied if exposed to H2O2 for to long. The print literally swims away, so with keycaps you might gett "letter soup". But the keycaps themself are perfectly clean afterwards... You can use dyesub transfer to reprint keycap labels afterwards by the way. Peroxide cream is an alternative if you want to retrobright thinks nor fitting into your oven. But every UV-brightening has the downside of getting the object evenly exposed. So you might better build your own 70°C oven using bricks and old heatbeds (for 3d-printers)
@@TutorialGenius Still, UV is not essential. It just allows to do the reaction at lower temperature. @65-70°C you can do totally without UV light. ABS has no problem with 70°C. Heat always come from all sides, unlike UV. So definitly the simle way to get nice results, if your object fits into a box which fits in your oven.
@@oleurgast730 Sounds like you should make your own video on it. My video is to show it can be done with 3% and the sun. Nothing more. Nothing less. Sounds like your have other plans and ideas, good stuff!
I am going to try to do some parts on my stove. Really didn't want to drag my stove outside so I did a little research on UVB and found that reptile light bulbs for aquariums transmit UVB. I also ordered 20% peroxide cream for hair. Come on Amazon! Thanks for the tips! Will let you know the results.
If you can buy hydroponic equipment in your area, they should have super h2o2 that is 30%. 1 gallon in USA is around $20. Be sure to wear protection, it will burn instantly if it comes in contact with skin.
Very good tutorial, thank you. For just a second I thought your Dog had been attacked by a sabre toothed Tiger! The orange caught my eye, especially the way its spread out! 🤣
Another thing to consider is that old plastics can (slowly) degrade even if not yellowed by the sun, so a process like this is not a cure all. It won’t be any stronger, for instance, so a plastic that’s more prone to breaking after 10-20 years will still be more fragile even if you pretty it up like this. Remember to use more caution with these retro items.
To use less hydrogen peroxide, put something solid, non floating, non reactive in the cavity beneath the item you are bleaching. Maybe after, sunscreen to protect against sunlight.
Never heard the yellowing was from oxidation...I'd always heard it was from Bromine as an additive to the plastic to make it fire retardant--but then again the oxidation could force it to appear on the surface. I refurbed many a copy machine with yellowed plastic using Volume 40+ Cream Bleach--put item panels out in the sun to "cook". Absolutely never experienced "streaking" as I used a chip brush to apply a liberal amount of the cream bleach.
Pool chemical supplies provide 30% peroxide used to put the sparkle in the water. It’s sometimes called water sparkle or crystal water chemical. It’s sold in 5 liter bottles which is enough to treat a 50 000L pool.
In my experience with 3%, no it hasn't made anything more brittle then before. I tested this with some yellowed see-though plastic from cardboard kids toys (Like the Good Guys doll from the 80s). I can't say it made it any more brittle than before, but I used that as an example because this plastic is very thin and more fragile than a Dreamcast or a NES case for example. An oxidized piece of plastic, is in itself, more brittle (As heat for example) weakens the plastic. So it's already somewhat brittle before we begin. Perhaps people are blaming the process for an already fragile item. But, I have not tested the effects with a high strength H2O2 solution, perhaps that could yield different results as it would give off more heat (amongst other things), especially when in an enclosed area (Indoors with UV lamps.). Most videos I've seen use a 12% solution, so that could be responsible for this talk on brittleness.
peroxide does weaken plastics, just realized after I stepped on a plastic I've stepped on before only difference 3% was used recently and crumbled the plastic which before didn't budge. this does explain cracked plastics of the past 🤔 🙉
Seems like it could become embrittled, but good idea! FYI a friend once splashed concentrated (furniture) hydrogen peroxide on his arm. It turned white instantly and he started yelping for help. Ack?!
I love the way he says Haych two-0! Awesome video and great tips! We have an old Genie garage door opener with a caramel colored light lens that used to be white. I'm wondering if this trick might bleach out the lens cover back to new?
I don't see why it wouldn't work! 😊 I did my garage door opener the other week, it had the same problem! Thanks for watching! Haych is nothing on how I say: butter! 😆💯
Trop bien ca a même changer le logo Dreamcast du bleu a orange ca marche trop bien bravo cest Dylan qui ta donné l'astuce nikel ci cest certifié Dylan j'achète.
I use to do the sun and hydrogen peroxide routine until I found out that the sun alone did a fine job with no risk of accidental blotching that chemicals can cause.
@@TutorialGenius Sunbrighting works. My preference is not based on flawed logic, just experience. You may be able to get better, faster results, but I (and many others) prefer using just the sun.
@@networkg I actually did an experiment on Sunbrighting a long time ago. I left an item out in the sun, from dawn until dusk for almost 2 months. It cleared up some of the yellow, but didn't have much effect of anything else. It only made the item terribly brittle. It sounds good, but in practice, it doesnt work.. and the results are not good to be honest, especially for that timestamp
All you need to use to remove the yellow, is simple regular VIM from any grocery store! Works instantly as well. Put some on your paper towel and rub it all over, or drizzle it on the device and wipe it with paper towel, then clean the remaining VIM off with another wet paper towel... Simple, quick, cheap, and readily available in most stores all over the place!
Thanks for this video, especially the lesson on the different type of UV lights. Super useful. Here is a “silly” question: I saw that Philips (and other brands) are selling “Sanitizer Boxes” (hermetically sealed stainless steel boxes (super reflective) that are basically designed to disinfect everyday objects with two built-in UV-C lamps (lamp wavelength: 253.7 nm). I was wondering whether such a box could - on the basis of repeated sessions - enable a retrobright effect ? I've read here and there that for a good retrobright effect you need to combine heat + UV, and this box does both, so I was wondering. And also, I've some old walkmans to restore but not all of them are in plastic : do you think it can work on metal shell or lacquered/metallic paints ? Thanks !
I'm sure the box would work, given what I already covered in the video with regards to catalysts. For metal, I have no idea. I would guess not. I don't see why you wouldn't use some acetone or something on the metal though. That'll remove anything. There's no harm in trying if you already have the kit for other plastic objects.
@@TutorialGenius It's because I have a metal model on which a sticker "it's a sony" stayed for a long time, and when you remove it you see a difference in color (the sticker acted as a stencil), so I'd like to make this “mark” disappear (I guess that the color below the sticker is the original one). Thank you for your thoughts on the box. I might give it a try then
@@thewalkmangallery7128try looking on Google I found a wiki page oh Sony dis man it might have something in that. Just goes to show what damage the sun does. Cover up everyone that is having summer or spring, from cold Melbourne Australia 🇦🇺
I thinking to use this method on my bearbrick, but i worry if turn back yellow or even worse after few months? Saw some comments said that will become worse after few months later
I'm not sure what these guys are doing, or what sources they are relying on, but little of these people have done the actual test themselves. Perhaps they are shoving it right back into the window, or just echoing the last person, I have no idea. Since I made the video, it has darkened a little, but not yellow nor anything close to like what it was before I started
I bought a vintage 1970s/80s pair of Porche design model 5600 ski goggles that are yellowing. I'd like to restore them but want to protect the non-plastic parts if necessary. Will hydrogen peroxide harm ski goggle lens, especially the uv coating & the foam that rests against the skin while using them and the rubberized Velcro straps if the entire goggles are submerged in it? Do you use straight peroxide or dilute it with water? I may have missed that in the video.
It has potential to harm the lens, yes. It's probably a good idea to remove it, or do a spot test (Just like when dying hair) As for the comment: "Do you use straight peroxide or dilute it with water?" - You should watch the video all of the way through, I already covered this part :)
Im curious, would this only work on white consoles/plastics? Or would it work on things like a purple gamecube? (Would it restore its original purple color)
Wait. For this Peroxide whitening, you said that you are using the Sun as a catalyst. But it sounds like you are in the U.K. But you are depending on sunlight to make it work. How is this possible?.
Actually there are all still doing great. They have been pretty much kept in a dark place, so the reaction will reverse very slowly without a catalyst 🌱☀️
@@TutorialGenius Glad to hear. I'm dealing with this issue with Hasbro products. A lot of their new Transformers figures are rapidly yellowing for some reason, and it's a huge problem currently. I'm trying to retrobright some right now to see if the yellow comes back.
Nice to see the good old Sun is still the way to go. Have you tried fixing the overbrighted NES? I have an old Amiga mouse I managed to overbright and its now sporting some white smudges. Is there really any way to get rid of them?
Yes I tried, after a couple of goes, it cleared up a bit :) I think its of trial and error. It helps when the sun it directly above to prevent shadows and whatnot! I had some trouble doing this in the winter haha!
@@TutorialGenius I can imagine, I just managed to buy 3L of 5% peroxide and waiting for sunny days to come in a few months :) I know it needs to be moved around every hour or so, I just wondered if a botched job can still be saved somehow, to get rid of the white smudges. But I guess the only way would be to make it all white which would look bad. Probably no way to get them darken back a bit.
That's interesting! I'm honestly not sure! Is there a sample you can test with? Maybe an over exposed one or something? Maybe you can test with a corner
@@TutorialGenius The photos I most want to restore are 100 year old 20" by 30" portraits. I have a feeling H2O2 would be the exact opposite of what I need (it takes colour out, not put it back) so I was wondering what the opposite might be - a reducing agent? (sodium sulphite maybe?). Seems to be very little info online, the usual advice is to photoshop it and mess about with the image but digitised images are hardly the same as framed originals. Alas, can probably only experiment once...
Yes, the tricky part is to get them off and away from the electronics though. For headlights, I recommend this method: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Znm17shIbaU.html
What about colored plastic from the late 70's early 80's. For instance I have an attack track that the blue lasers on one side change color, more of yellow blue. Will it restore back to original blue?
When im restoring plastics i usually use household bleach and a bit of washing up liquid. When im restoring say 40+ year old motorbike plastics that basically go white with light exposure, aswel as scratching, i use various grades of sand paper and finish with a buffer. My question is will hydrogen peroxide turn the plastic brittle?
@@TutorialGenius thanks I'll have to try it. I restore old motorbike and bicycle parts, usually old zink plated stuff. I use hydrochloric acid 10%. Its basically brick acid. It rips off the rust and old zink plate in seconds. I then re-zink plate them. I've done parts that have a rubber seal or insert and even that stuff doesn't really affect it. What it does have a problem with is aluminium parts, they turn black and even after rinsing are warm to the touch. They create a kind of black soot. It's easily removed though and doesn't seem to damage them either.
I covered in the video that H2O2 breaks down into water and oxygen when heat is applied, so it would be an interesting race to strengthen the purity over breaking down the H2O2. I bet it wouldn't work, or wouldn't be worth it... but in the interest of science, well that's another thing!
@@TutorialGenius Why would I waste my time when you "kinda" cover it? For someone supposedly wanting to teach others you sure are a gatekeepy kunt, aren't you?
Don't know if any one can help me but I am trying to clean up 1989 cherry coke robot transformer can. And I don't want the red to fade. By using hydrogen paroxide. Can't one help or know if it would affect the red or not? Please any one help ❤
I want to remove the yellowing from my plastic transparent sheet, the cream form of hydrogen peroxide makes the most sense, but how do I protect areas that I don't want the cream to touch, such as some writing on marker?
I've done this with a number of my items, and it always works, but some of them have yellowed again. I don't know if them yellowing a second time after I whitened them is due to light, or heat, or if it just happens that they won't stay white if they were ever yellow.
I researched cleaning the headlamps. A lot of the techniques used meant the clouding came back. I bought a kit from rainx which included a protective coating to stop this happening. Probably the same
@@TutorialGenius You mean everyone doesn't have a LV bag? They are super cheap in Thailand. 😜 And bonus: They never yellow because they don't last that long. 😃
