Great video, Elsabe! There are so many good tips and tricks out there for designing with knits, and you've pulled them together in a very concise manner for use with the SFD Body Blueprint. Kudos, and thank you!
@@ElsabeHurn I did a lot of looking into sure fit designs after seeing your video and have now just bought the dress pattern kit, I live in Australia so bought it from the Australian site, so I am now really excited to get started when it arrives. I love the way you teach, so I will be watching more of yours when I get going.
@@vindeljay you are going to love designing with SFD. I can’t remember when last I used a commercial pattern. I just use my old patterns for design ideas.
thank you, thank you so much for this detailed tutorial for removing the bodice darts, it was so helpful to me i really can't thank you enough,❤❤❤ by the way you're so pretty and i adore your style
Very well explained indeed. I just made a perfect knit block from my custom one. One important correction though : while removing the last waist dart do not cut from underarm. This shortens your bust line as well! Cut from the bust line instead. I lost quite a lot of bust circumference and had to redo that part.
Elsabe, thank you for such clear instructions. I have seen instructions for this before but could not really make sense of them. Your demo made it so clear and easy to follow. Have never come across the length adjustment but now I am aware of this it makes perfect sense. I am so enjoying your videos.
Elsabe, I am loving your guidance. I am in the very process now of fitting my bodice blueprint (for wovens). One challenge was fitting my narrow/hollow high bust. I’ve finally gotten it right (I think) . BUT, here’s my question: isn’t this method of removing the dart for knits actually ADDING fabric to the high bust area? Will I be re-creating that fitting issue I had in the high bust area by making this adjustment? I can’t wait to finish my (woven) sloper so I can take your jean jacket course! Thanks again for your wonderful guidance. (I’m loving your serger tips…I just bought a serger in March, and I’m just now learning to use it….thanks to you!)
How do you recommend removing a back shoulder dart? In the past I have moved it into a back yoke line, but am wondering if there is another way to avoid creating an additional seam line in the back of the knit shirt.
So I understand that if I am working with this kit, which I have, and a knit, I'm to take off 2.5 cm from the back, right? I never knew this! Thank you. I want to take my kit out and work with it again.
Thank yiu mam for sharing the imp. Information about dart manipulation on streach fabric. Just a small question. What we should do on non streachable fabric?
Thank you for watching. You need your bust dart in woven fabric to get a perfect fit. Without bust darts you will have drag lines from your hip side seam to your bust. It is also important to have the correct bust dart size for your cup size. With Sure-Fit Designs we use the adjust-a-bust template included in our Dress Kit. This gives us perfect darts and we don’t need full bust adjustments. We can still do dart manipulation then and move the dart into other positions on the pattern for different styles on our woven fabrics
Tq for ur helpful gd video tutorial.I noticed again n been meaning to find an adjustable sizing dressmaking model like what u have.How can i get 1?i am in Kuala Lumpur,Malaysia?
You will have to look at fabric shops, they might be able to get one for you. I know that Ama on sells these dress forms, see if they ship to your country.
Hi Lynn, thank you for watching. I curve the hemline to keep the lenght over the bust area. If you draw a straight line from the side seam you end up removing needed lenght for bigger cup sizes. You can get away with it a straight line if you have a smaller bust.
This is fabulous, thank you. Could I use this method to remove the dart when drafting Glenda's Kimono sleeve blouse course? Instead of just moving the dart to the armhole or waist and leaving it there? I mean, could I then add that step where you draw lines from the base of the enlarged waist dart to the underarm and close that up. I hope I'm making sense 🤦♀️
Very clear teaching method. Some tips were new athough I have more than 60 years of sewing experience. Although I followed along very carefully, I still ended up with some problems because of short bodice and large bust. Just a heads up. You'll get closer, but not all the way there.
Hello Elsabe, This is the first time I have come across your lecture, and I am soooooooo enjoying it. I haven't tried sewing knits yet but I am learning so much. Thank you for this. The trouble for me is that I am only 15 minutes in, very eager to learn, but need to go to bed. It's after midnight and the rest of the week is very busy for me. I might not get back the watch the rest until next week, and the Math Challenge will keep me up if I don't ask now. Could I please ask about sizing down? Does the percentage of stretch in the knit play a roll in decided how much to size down? I have small knit stash to practice on and it is hard to match the stretch patterns calls for. Lots of plans to sew for my baby Grandson. My first grandchild! Thank you so much!
Hi Momzilla, thank you for watching my video. Congratulations on your first grandchild. Enjoy every moment with him. Stretch ratio definitely plays a roll. With commercial patterns they designed the pattern for fabric with a certain amount of stretch. So if you choose your size and your fabric has more stretch, the garment will look to big(loose). If you have less stretch than what is suggested, the garment will feel to small (tight fit). If my fabric has more stretch than suggested, I usually size down by one size. If my fabric has less stretch than suggested, I size up by one size. I also look at the finished garment measurement that’s usually found on the front pattern piece, as that gives you an idea of the fit. I will record a video and add to the channel next week discussing the stretch ratio and choosing your size. I will then share a couple more tips on how I choose my size. I do have a video on sizing down for adults when working with a basic sloper, see link below. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-sr-QPqdi6bo.html
Quick question Elsabe…did you do these adjustments with or without seam allowance added to your pattern? Do you need to remove seam allowances first? Thank you 🙏
I was working with my Sure-Fit Designs sloper which only has 2.5cm/1 inch ease at the waist. Removing the full dart and sizing down as shown in my grading for stretch fabrics in a following video would have been too much negative ease. I can always size down for a tighter fit if needed on my sewn top. The amount of ease in your garment is a personal preference, so you can decide to take the full dart out if you feel you want a tighter fit
@@ElsabeHurn Ahhh. Got it. Thank you ❤️ I’m watching the grading video now. I will try out your tips from this video this week. I’ll check back with my results.
I will be updating the video where I remove the bust dart at some stage. With experimenting with stretch fabrics I found that with 4 way stretch I don’t need to curve the front hem due to the vertical stretch.
Due scoliosis I have a pelvic tilt giving me a prominent tummy. I therefore do not sew the front waist darts. This gives me the extra width and length I need across the tummy. When I trialed your technique I was aware I needed that extra but got into a mess when removing the bottom part of the bust dart. What is the best way of retaining this required width and length in the process. Thanks in anticipation.
I just find it easier to open up the pattern if I go that 1cm in. You can also go more to the point, just secure it with tape so that the paper doesn’t tear.
