I found that the easiest way to reach the forsaken bolt is to; Instead of loosening the bracket on top and fitting a 13 on from there, you use your phone to locate the bolt from the top of the engine bay by following the bracket, you can see the part of the bracket that screws into the top of the dpf Farley easily from the engine bay, you just follow the outermost side of the bracket to the bolt(if you are facing the rear of the car that is the side of the bracket you want to follow). Look at a diagram of the dpf online and you will see what I’m talking about. Then once you’ve located the bolt situate yourself on the bottom of your car where you can get a view of it and reach your socket up with a long extension and reach around right to the bolt. It’s actually not bad at all once you’ve located it from the bottom. I wish I had someone to tell me that before I hassled around finding out how to do it for well over an hour. My bolt had a black cloth covering it from sight so make sure to check the diagram of the bracket and move the cloth if you have it as well.
@@diesel.bimmer only one way to learn bro. Keep in mind you need the tune after u delete the DPF and u might as well do an EGR and DEF delete so you can get one tune and call it a day
To get to that annoying 13mm, never had to remove anything from the top or do any of that extra stuff. Probably the best way to do it in my opinion is, just getting it from underneath. It’s extremely hard to fit the extension, 13mm and socket wrench in there but did in 10 minutes. I have an accessible lift but am sure you can do it with a jack. Hope this helps!!
Don't be fooled. Guy made it look easy, but only changing those pressure converters and vacuum hose was nightmare as it's tight as hell. I won't even attempt this. Was changing water pump gasket, now I have driveshaft problem coz I left lying tire under the ramps and drove on it....
I totally agree. I just did a full vacuum hose and dpf replacement a few days ago and it was a pain in the ass. Getting to the back top bolt that holds the dpf bracket is extremely difficult.
Help okay, on the little “box” the smaller sensor of the two which is reused In an aftermarket down pipe is plugged in on the second to last connector by the 02 or the one ?!?!
@@dkgarage5131 alrighty and I need to figure out if anything is done with the two lines that went into the dpf or if they just hangout, and if the T line that used to go into the egr is fine just hanging out with a screw in it, you just blanked the sensor which 1 of the 3 things I need concreted if I plug it in the back plug front or it doesn’t even matter with a tune im hearing and in that case it just acts as a bolt but is just strange because it has two sensor ports, o2 and pyro where does the pyro go, in this case I’m taking it doesn’t even have to go back, but hose stuff too I need answers one day
@@dkgarage5131 - the cat is the part of the exhaust downstream of the existing DPF that is like a wide oval shape. To me it looked like you were refitting the original exhaust - although I noted you fitted some straight pipes to replace the mufflers. The cat needs to be gutted if you’re replacing the diesel particulate filter with the downpipe otherwise all the soot will simply accumulate in the cat.…. or did you install a 4 inch pipe from the downpipe right to the end of the exhaust so effectively got rid of all the existing exhaust system?
@@stevenlow9442 no I’m the video I replied the dpf delete which it’s a 3 inch downpipe and in the video I put the stock exhaust back on with a gutted scr and a muffler delete I just installed a 4 inch single like a week ago
What year is yours? I got a 2011 and in the middle of this can’t get to the hidden motor mount Torx. Also can’t even find this hidden bolt you circle with the yellow in your vid. It’s behind the hoses?