How to remove your John Deere 2030 Hydraulic Lift Cover 

I have done similar but fished it out with a piece of strong wire.

Thanks, will do!

Go for it!

The 2030 has the spring back one I just have the screw it to hold it in neutral, I will probably pop it apart just for a video at some stage.

Thankyou.

You never stop learning when playing with old tractors.

​@@BundyBearsShed😊8..⁰⁰⁰😊😊½❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤

The piece is usually rubber L57519 is probably the number for it.

Noy yet as I need to do the gearbox if I ever find time. Just line up the cam with the roller and you are good to go.

I think it was an old hydraulic supply at one stage.

Just a little yes.

fiest thing is to check the rate of drop knob in front of the seat isnt closed off. If the cam that comes up from the draft isnt sitting on the teardrop on the rockshaft and has moved to the side it will raise instantly. It is important for the roller to run on the cam or teardrop.

Thanks again for your review and advice!! We followed your recommendations and still could not get the lift arms to drop/lower. We also followed JD's technical adjustment processes and it did not help either. I bought the tractor knowing the lift arms did not work. They were raised. I was only able to drop them by removing the plug on the left side. We recently took the rockshaft cover off and discovered 2 e-clips fell off causing the spring and bracket inside to fall apart. We re-assembled, installed everything back, changed fluids and filter. I dont recall how long it took but after tractor idled, internal cavities filled with oil, the lift arms immediately raised even with lever in the fullest down/lowested position. We are concerned that the internal down valve is not functioning, its not relieving oil or pressure. We are also concerned that we could not get the internal bracket assembly to secure/fasten to the front casting well and question whether it will fall apart again. We also discovered the right side plug that has an internal/removable valve was installed backwards previously per drawings we found. Yet when we installed it correctly per the drawings, nothing else changed. Do you have any recommendations? We're leaning towards taking it apart again but removing the cylinder and checking both valves inside.

Probably not, air is not a problem normally they tend to self bleed. If you have shuddering on the linkage it is often a blown o ring in the lift cover that doesnt let the front pump catch up and destroke.

@@BundyBearsShed would that stop flow to the column? I can get some flow to it but no where near what it's supposed to be. And I cracked a few lines and it was constant air coming out even rigjt off the pump. That's why I thought I was sucking air.

@@brianyoung8097 yes the trans pump would be sucking air

Yes I like to use loctite 515, it seems to help a lot.

The SCV problem is possibly a poor poppet valve seat. I would try to do the draft adjustment first on the draft problem.

Im thinking the diff lock is what you are refering to.

@@BundyBearsShed thanks mate. I think you're right. It's missing the pedal so looks different to most. I wonder if someone's taken it off or if some came without?

Most had it that I have had.

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