How to renew a motorised valve motor or head. No draining down. 

No problem, pleased you sorted it ok.

Wow, thank you. All the best.

No problem, keep warm.

You bet!

Glad you liked it!!

No problem 😊

Thanks tom.

No problem.

So the “pros” couldn’t even figure out a simple problem such as this?

What was the issue?

No problem. Pleased you have managed to save some money on expensive plumbers fees.

No problem Anna Y.

Well done Sandra.

Thanks, finallevel29, your kind comments are much appreciated. Al.

No problem JNF

No problem 👍

+Harun Al-rashid No problem pleased you did it ok.

No problem Bilal.

The motorised valve will cause this when in manual mode.

No just leave it off manual.

It will be 22 mm. If you are not sure just measure the inside diameter.

You're welcome!

Glad I could help!

Yes it will

Oh and the heating works only if the hot water is heating up!

That is the motorised valve faulty

Oh bum! So not just the head needs replacing but the whole valve? I'll need a plumber for that,not going to risk draining my system myself.👍

Thanks Norman.

How easy should it be to turn? By hand, or say with long-nose pliers (i.e. still not masses of torque applied)?

@@ArifGhostwriter It should be very easy and if you have to exert significant force with a very short spanner or pliers it would suggest it requires changing. Having said that, if you are handy, you could remove it from the system, strip it down and clean it up. But in terms of effectiveness it is quicker to swap it out.

Norman sir! Many thanks - & Happy New Year (given your original post is from 5 years ago!).

No problem Fred.

The Honeywell one is best but a lot more expensive.

Yes it does

Yes they always run a bit hot.

It is normally the V4043h

No you would have to get the same model as your mums and replace with that. Not this Honeywell one.

Best to renew the actuator (the complete valve head) The switches on the wall very rarely go wrong.

Thanks Nigel much appreciated.

Yes it should.

No it just means you have not seated it properly into the slot . When the lever is pulled across lift it up into the cutout slot.

@@dereton33 Thanks for your quick reply. It does seat in the slot ok, but as soon as I let go it springs back down. I tried many times. As I have no hot water, I was thinking of changing the motor first. I just wondered if the lever springing back was indicative of a fault with it.

A quick update. I took off the casing and noticed the motor was stuck and the spring mech wasn’t working, the reason why it wouldn’t stay in manual mode. I ordered a motor, fitted it and it springs back and manual works. The old motor was very stiff to move, so would go to central heating, but wouldn’t spring back for hot water, Although, with the new motor it works on auto now. Hot water again! Hopefully, this will help someone. Thanks again for your video, it made me brave enough to have a go. :)

Yes, absolutely

@@dereton33 Thanks so much for replying Al! I only replaced the honeywell valve itself & there is no resistance on the switch! Does that mean I need to replace the valve body too? Thanks mate

As long as it is the same model.

Not sure they are compatable.

No problem Mark.

No make sure you stick with the same brand, in this instance a honewell.

Yes

If you are not sure go directly to Honewell and order from there.

No problem 👍

Way to find out, is to remove the head before replacing and see if you can turn it manually.

If it is one of the old models it will start to leak water as soon as you start to move it. The new ones just pull off easy.

Thanks, the motor doesn't seem to want to come off, it looks as though the spindle is stuck in the motor... can this happen? I've tried levering it with a screwdriver but the shaft isn't shifting and I don't want to break anything (or flood anything!)

Yes a good idea Ash.

Excellent, thanks

Does it matter what type? Or just any? Apologies for all the questions..

+regbloke Repace the valve but make sure that it is the same make.

Those ones are the type that cannot be done without draining down. You may as well renew the complete valve once that is done.

Yes a faulty valve. It will need renewing.

Afraid it will need a new valve.

@@dereton33 thanks for taking the time to reply 😊👍

leave it disconected, but taped over.

Best to buy the complete valve, head and body.

See if it will turn ok with a spanner. You will have to take the head off first.

You're welcome!

I would renew the whole thing as you have already replaced just the motor.

dereton33 it was the whole valve that was replaced not the motor. Should I be looking for a different brand rather than flowmasta?

In that case yes. Honeywell are best.

Thanks for the help

Check stats and boiler first.

Yes the head motor is gone.

Thank you

Try some system cleaner followed by fresh inhibitor.

Replace the valve head.

@@dereton33 thank you 😊

Usually just the head Yes.

Yes you will have to drain down.

@@dereton33 OK thanks for replying so quickly 👍

You can remove the head without draining. There are just a couple of real old models where you have to drain the system. Rare these days.

Just the heating side Peter.

It is more likely to be air Bob, try slacking off the flow outlets on the valve, to see if there is any air trapped there. Try also slacking off the cylinder flow and return nuts, to see if there is any air there. Also check the pump for air.

It is always hard to pull open as you are pulling against a spring.

Devon.

Never just renewed the motor, best to renew the whole head unit. Not much more money.

DO STOP. You have one of the very old rare type that you have to drain the system to remove the head gear. You may as well buy a complete valve as you have to drain.

@@dereton33 Got it! Thanks. You saved me a soaking cellar. Will drain down and replace the whole valve.

You're welcome!

Try turning your pump speed down a notch first. If no luck then, I would replace the whole valve.

@@dereton33 Thank you for your reply, interestingly this afternoon, I ran the hot water for a bath and the humming stopped as soon as I turned the tap on ! and now two hours later all is quiet, maybe it's a dirty contact or something in the box ?

May also be high pressure to the combi you could try turning the flow rate down on the main stopcock.

@@dereton33 Thanks, but I don't have a combi, have a standard hot water tank, but it is still quiet nearly four hours on, but I had this problem about 12 days ago, but then after a couple of days, I noticed it went quiet, that is up until today !! so it is intermittent, so maybe the answer is to run a bath when the humming sound comes back ? lol, doesn't account for the strange sound when the CH turns on from cold though !

No that it dosent.

More to come!

No you will have to get the correct model for that one.

So far as I know as long as you are competent.

Then you need a new motor it is burnt out.

Thought as much. Was just checking it’s ok to remove if the leaver wasn’t pulled over 👍🏻

Yes more than likely.

It only goes on one way, keep the valve in the closed position on fitting.

Thanks!

I've ordered a new head (with valve too just in case). The valve is now jammed shut but worked this morning - is this likely to be the gear mechanism as the manual level is also jammed and I can't open the valve. New part not coming til Tuesday so at this point presumably I have nothing to lose by unbolting the head and having a look...

Yes that is not one that you can just change the head.

dereton33 Thanks very much for the reply.

Yes sure are.

The water will not come on if the water in the tank is already hotter than normal. Try turning down your cylinder thermostat to 55 c. This is not a motorised valve problem.

+dereton33.Thanks for the response. Love your videos,very informative and helpful,thanks

No problem.

Glad you enjoyed it!

No they are not interchangeable.

@@dereton33 Great thanks

Of course

Yes just copy the wires the same as in the control box.

Thankyou for getting back to me.

You will need to drain yours out.

I have drained the system, I opened the hot water and drained all the hot water out and then I shut off the mains cold water inlet and connected a hose to a drain valve which was located near the boiler dowstairs. I opened the pressure valve on the cylinder and waited for it to more or less empty and I then replaced the motorized head. I didnt open the bleed valves on any of the radiators as i thought i just needed to drain the cyclinder above the motorized valve. I then refilled the system keeping all the taps open in the house and once they seemed to stop spitting air out i turned them off. Now i seem to have all the rads working upstairs but only some of the downstairs rads seem to be getting hot... also I dont have any hot water yet. This is about 30mins after turning on the hot water and heating on again. Is there some major flaws in my workings here? help!! Thanks [EDIT]..... The hot water seems to be getting hot now. Still a few remaining rads to come on downstairs.

chris mitchell you did not need to drain the hot water system ( the system that sends water to your sinks and bath).

Norman Boyes I have got everything running again, all the rads are working, the only difference since I did it is both the hot and cold water don’t seem to have the same pressure as before e.g the bath takes longer to fill. I have the pressure bar set to 1 bar, is there anything else I need to do or does all sound well? Cheers

I will give that a go, thanks for the input Norman

You could try cutting the flow down by turning the lock shield valve all the way off and then on just a half turn. Failing that I do have a video on flushing out radiators. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_FlxN0c-qBQ.html Good luck with it

+dereton33 Thanks. I've watched your video and will give it a go. It's going to take a long time because there are only 3 rads on, my daughter hates being warm. Plus my boiler is a combo so as you know, I will be up and downstairs topping the system up from the mains.

Ok good luck with it.

The main switch to the boiler.

Half a turn.

If it is moving easy it is not jammed.

You're very welcome

The part coming today. Hope all goes well!

@@dereton33 blast. The thing is in such a bad place I was nervous to get it off! In case I could not get the hidden screw back in. The only trouble with the one that is on is that it buzzes like hell after central heating been on! Any ideas to stop that please? If not I will force myself into changing it.

It is switched on.

it's a 2 port valve only

Yes it is letting by.

Amazon have changed the link address. Try my store instead.

No don't worry about it.

No problem.

Great advice Colin.

Thanks.

Either the body is stuck or the pump is worn.

dereton33 my house have 4 heating zone. 3 of them are good. One have the same problem ( hot water can not go though the valve). I check the motor is good. And I switched to manual but hot water can not go through. Do you have any way can check the valve if it is stuck

You have one of the old type where the head cant be changed without draining down first.

To keep the valve open

@@dereton33 yeah but why does it need to be open plz