Great video! A couple of additions I would offer, based on painful experience. Repacking glands (also called stuffing boxes) is usually down in much more difficult circumstances. If you're in a position where it's difficult to work, it helps to use a DIY collar out of PVC pipe, to use as a tamper. Choose a piece of PVC pipe the same ID as the shaft diameter. Cut a 2 inch piece and cut a 1 or so inch wide slot across it, forming a collar. Push this collar over the shaft and use it as a tamper. Secondly, the packing rings make a better seal if they're cut on the diagonal instead of straight across as it increase the surface area.
Like you said, there are many different configurations. Your video has REALLY helped me to see how it's supposed to be done! The one I need to repack (which has a three bolt flange) was definitely NOT done properly! Thank you so much!!
How old was this boat ? I’m trying to have my 70 sail boat done ! Tahiti ketch boils in 1970 it got a wooden block in the inside where the flange bolts to the wooden block . Thank you finally it’s becoming clear some what needs to be done .
Exactly what I was looking for. My boat is different but all the concepts are there. Do you ever cut the new stripps on an angle (say 45 degrees) so that the two ends overlap?
@@dhcrouchmarineltd3049 I was thinking that there might be less of a chance of water seapage, and it you cut it too short or too long then when it compresses it will find the correct diameter. I haven't replaced mine yet. Just watching videos and learning. Your video is one of the best.
Great video, mine is not this type, I believe it to have been made by Roy Willerby of Southam and uses a C spanner to adjust. During normal forward operation, how warm is acceptable for the stuffing box to become? The shaft moves freely and after a few hours running I can hold my hand on the stuffing box bot it is quite warm
Heat is investable and difficult to prevent in mechanical work. However anything below 40° I can't see an issue. If you have access to a thermometer check it. Also does the propshaft spin easily by hand? Make sure the engines off when checking
Thanks for showings us how to do it Darren & sharing your tips . When you screw the actual stern tube in & the stuffing box on ,do you use the same grease on the threads or is there a special grease to use ?
If you mean to seal the bearing I use a good modern sealant like CT1. its never failed me Also CT1 can be adhered under water, not that I've had to try that. How you getting on, boats taking shape now.
How do I message you about packing a stern gland on a 1977 moody 39 please? We have had some very questionable advice and would like to ask you your opinion
Should you get no water dripping into the bilge when you've repacked the gland properly? I was told it should drip for cooling purposes, but that really doesn't make sense to me... If it is supposed to drip water, how much should it drip? Thanks in advance.
Hmmm interesting to hear someone suggested dripping is to manage heat. In my opinion you shouldn't get a lot of heat. If the packing is to tight the shaft will generate excessive heat from friction and this will damage the shaft. The packing system is designed to stop water ingress. That's it. So after a cruise if there is no water coming in, the packing seal is doing its job. If you you stop crusing and there is water dripping then this is time to add some grease. If you see the grease increasing into the craft then the packing is to loose. All your hoping to achieve is water management. As in no water. A worn shaft may confuse things as no matter how much grease you apply or how tight the gland is water will still come in.
I am familiar with deep water glands. Vetus are very common. They are effectively a lop seal. Vetus used to be a brass unit with an embossed double lip but now make use of common lip seals. The silicone is friendly to the seals material as say a grease would damage the seal medium. On shallow water the deep water seals work but there is a huge risk of damage to the propeller shaft if a fouling happens. The cutlass bearings offer no real shaft support in that situation and i have seen many a bent shaft. Like anything, best make use of equipment in its designed application. As the name suggests "deep water seal" best use in deep water. Canals are not deep.
@@mediahead6799 Each manufacturer has thier own rules so best refer to the manual for your brand of product. However I know the vetus say silicone grease at least once a year.
What to do if the two threads are loose? I have thigtend the two nuts. But the thread itself come loose every time. Should I lock it with loctite? I can’t put a nut on the other side.
Just how loose are we talking? You can use some thin nuts against body. It'll just take some of tue adjustable depth out. . You can also try locktight too
Hi there. I use that k99 water resistant grease bit it still drips a little. Is that the right kind of grease to use? It's on sabb engine with 2 geaser points so I not very common system I think
K99 is for stern glands. If you still have drips the propeller shaft is likely worn out. I have a video which shows shaft wear. Take a look as you me be due pulling the propshaft next time you dry dock to inspect it.
Yes provided you plan it well. Newer shafts and seals will leak very little. Older worn shafts, seals and bearings may allow far more water in as your Woking on it. Ensure there is plenty of grease in the greaser and you have a decent bilge pump. If in doubt seek a professional
sorry , can you show where or how to add grease? my assembly was dripping about every 4 seconds, I can not move the shaft by hand ? any thoughts thx again
If you tapered the ends so they compress flat then I can't see any reason not too. But you may risk a poor seal. However it would he interesting to experiment.
The grease is to stop water. What design of bearing do you have. Is it stepped, so a bearing every so often. This sounds long and the heat build up is something to he aware of. I'd love to see a picture darrencrouch@dhcrouchmarineltd.co.uk
@@dhcrouchmarineltd3049 cheers, its a narrow boat from the 70s, cruiser stern. Its well built but it had a seized shaft when I got it, so probably to do with lack of grease down the shaft. Its not stepped no, just brass bearing at each end. The wrong packing may have been in it, so I don't think grease ever got down the shaft. Do you think a shaft like that should always be packed full of grease, or just at the stuffing box end? Graham.
