Click here for a new bar ➜ amzn.to/2CxfiVn Click here for a bar dresser ➜ amzn.to/2j6ceHp Check out these other informative videos: Correct Way To Sharpen A Chainsaw ➜ ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--GIxowey6IQ.html How To Use a Stihl 2 In 1 Chainsaw Chain Sharpener ➜ ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-marzGaMq6pM.html How To Buy The Proper Chain For A Chainsaw ➜ ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-IMaGZghrKWg.html Correct Way To Adjust The Chain Tension On Your Chainsaw ➜ ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-FxgQSPQeYYM.html Make sure to check out the Saloon here too… Click here for my website ➜ www.stevessmallenginesaloon.com/ Click here for my Parts and Tools Store ➜ www.amazon.com/shop/stevessmallenginesaloon Follow me on Facebook ➜ facebook.com/stevessmallenginesaloon Follow me on Instagram ➜ instagram.com/stevessmallenginesaloon/ Follow me on Twitter ➜ twitter.com/SteveSaloon
For guys like me, Steve’s doing the lord’s work on these chainsaw videos. Since my dad died 2 years ago, I’ve had no one to refer to for help. Steve is now my chainsaw pop!
@@StevesSmallEngineSaloon This is exactly why I am also here. My dad always used to maintain and sharpen our chainsaw, but he died suddenly and didn't have time to pass on all the knowledge. Thanks for the tips, My firewood is very crooked. I think for me it is a combination of worn out bar + chain sharpened a little less on the left side.
@@georgeman27 sorry to hear about your Dad I had years to learn how to shoe horses from my Dad and only learnt how to trim now Dad's nearly 80 and I live about 6hrs away in a city although recently we had some time together due to bushfires it was great take care I hope your sort that saw
@@shaveclassy9986 Yeah, it was quite sudden, but i am fine now. It has been years. Thanks to Steve's tips on sharpening, my chainsaw purrs like a kitten. Turns out, and this is stupid, In ALL my years, I have never realized that metal files work only ONE way. So I was sharpening one side of the chain, while making the other side DULL...
After 45 years in the tree / saw maintainer biz, I have seen just about every mistake you can make with a chainsaw. Bar and chain maintenance are at the root of most. I think the most important is most of what you covered. My suggestion: after you finish cutting, remove the bar and chain, clean the bar, use a bar square on the down side ,not much.. one or two strokes,clean,grease nose sprocket and re install,leaving the chain loose. I get better bar life this way, rather than waiting until it’s grinder time. Love your show. Just remember, there are some people that should not pick up a chainsaw. Just for safety’s sake.
My local small engine repair shop hates this channel because i don't need him anymore.Steve has a video for everything i need and he knows his stuff.Thanks Steve
By far one of the best small engine channels out there. Steves videos have helped me countless times. I can't just can't say enough good things. Thanks for all of the effort you put into every video.
Just wanted to throw a big thanks your way. You're a good man to share your knowledge with the world for free. I know you have helped countless people and for that we should all raise a beer to you, in respect. Looking forward to watching you for a long time to come.
Couldn't agree more with ZP Pierce. I also don't have reliable men in my day to day life. Steve has been priceless In helping me restore an old Stihl ms290. With his help plus some other RU-vidrs I've been able to completely restore a chainsaw that had been passed on from someone recently deceased. I plan on regifting the saw back to it's owner after a complete restoration. Couldn't do it without you Steve thanks for you help and easy approach in teaching.
Thank you Steve. I worked in a small engine/saw shop and know most of this stuff but these videos are my refresher course. I tend to forget things these days and this is like going back to school. I haven't had this problem myself in about 30 years but when I did it was bad! Worse, it was my lack of sharpening skills at that time. I have also had bad rails too. I think? I think it was from me running a tight chain? A file did the trick as you showed. These days when friends bring me their saws it's usually a carb problem. Sometimes a good cleaning will fix them or just a kit and clean.
Customer's Stihl 034 saw was cutting crooked to the point it would bind and start smoking the bar. He was a DIYer, and last time he worked on the clutch/drum, he installed the dished washer backwards allowing the drum assembly to walk in and out on the crankshaft end.
Steve, I'm so glad I found your channel. I've learned more about chainsaw maintenance in a few videos of yours than I've ever found from others. Most recently, getting the right 2 in 1 sharpener for your chain (I got the wrong one) and why my saw drifts to be side when trying to cut straight. Thanks!
Thanks Steve. I'm rebuilding a Jonsered 630 for my Dad and the bar on that saw had short rails. I could see daylight between the new chain and bar rails. New Oregon bar on order. Thanks again.
Thanks so much for posting these videos, my dad never did proper maintenance on the old chainsaw (pioneer partner 400) or taught me much in the way of how to even use it. With your videos it's been a slow but steady process of first getting it to start, tensioned, sharpened, and now getting it to cut a bit better/straighter.
Thanks again Steve. You helped me diagnose the real reason my Tanaka ECV4501 was cutting crooked.....my chain bar rails were uneven. Having a new bar and the old one and standing them as you suggested (or trying to stand them!) on a flat surface quickly showed up the issue! Thanks again. Now lm going to attempt to dress the old bar and keep as a spare. Great channel! From an Irish subscriber!! 🇮🇪🇮🇪🇮🇪
Hey Steve, been watching your channel for years now I have a 661cm with a 42” Oregon bar. Yes, one step above the max size. I blew out the sprocket on the end of the bar. It even caught on fire and melted the paint off the tip. Had it in the Alaskan mill for sugar maple Sprocket was free and oiled. Brand new bar and had no issues logging the first few logs. The rest of the bar is totally fine Gauge and pitch were correct. Stihl chain on the Oregon bar. Skip tooth 3/8 .063”. Brand new chain. Brand new clutch and drive sprocket. Brand new bar second time using. My thoughts are not enough oil Getting to the tip, lower quality bar ba stihl, chain maybe too loose, maybe the sprocket got worn off to one side and the chain was riding the side, probably a combination off all of these. I will replace the bar sprocket and try again. There is a small possibility of a manufacturer defect on the sprocket but it’s welded inside the tip now and I can’t get a Pi look at it until later. Anyway just wondering if you had any additional thoughts or ideas.
Steve, I have used a wider gauge chain on a bar that the grove is too Wide. We did this in the logging Industry and it worked fine. We also replaced the tip that fit the chain.
Good video. I cut wood in the high desert. The sand eats chain, bars and sprocks quick. I ended up getting the bar rail grinder from Bailey's and a bar rail closer from Madsen's. The grinder is very helpful! But, I often close the rail too much which I'm used to sligjtly re-openning back up. I like the cannon bars the best as they last (a little) longer in the sand then even Stihl and for sure longer then the Oregon and Husky bars. But one thing is for sure, I cut straight now.
I have been in the small engine business for 25 years. The was excellent and comprehensive training on bars and chains. Box stores usually know little about bars and chains. Our local box stores often sold chains to customers that were a different pitch and gauge than their equipment required. I have straightened out those issues often. I would surmise that your video helped many people.
I just got a new bar on my 15-year-old Stihl due to that wide gap and uneven rail situation. My cuts were starting to look like they were made with a circle cutter rather than a straight bar! Great information, Steve. I'm happy to have come across your channel.
Very good, informative video. You didn't touch on one cause of crooked cutting that I personally experienced. As the bar wears, the guide links can touch the bottom of the slot in the bar, which will raise the tie straps of the chain above the rails of the bar, allowing the chain to tilt right or left. When this happens, the bar is plain worn out. I also clean the bar slot each time I change or sharpen my chains. It's amazing how much junk gets jammed in that slot
Steve, thanks for posting this. I was cutting firewood this afternoon and the saw was only cutting well on an extreme angle. I took the bar off and set it on the table, could not get it to balance on the bottom side, top side balanced well. Flipped the bar and went back to the wood. Cuts like a dream. I will try to file the bad edge and see if I can save the bar. Thanks again man!
Steve, you're my go to guy whenever I run in to problems with any of my gas tools. You've saved me a ton of cash and time. Love your vids! I discovered a variant on reason #2: the driver teeth on the chain wore down very quickly. The chain was the right gauge originally, but wear made it like like it was now too small. I suspect the reason was that too much downward pressure was being applied when cutting (and the chain was loose) prematurely wearing out the chain's driver teeth. Keep up the good work!!
ANSR Steve, there is another thing that might help the problem with the chain wiggling in the bar groove; its a bar rail tightening tool. It can close up the groove enough to tighten the chain movement. Love your channel. I watched the video today about the locked clutch drum on the Husqvarna chainsaw. The device to grease the clutch bearing is now on my list of tools I will be ordering. Thanks for the info.
Just tuned two bars yesterday, from an 018 and a 290. I have a woodshop and a shop build edge sander. Works great for getting the rails both to the same height. Uses a 6" x 48" belt with a platen at 90 degrees to the belt.
Sure enough! My bar would not stand up on my tablesaw table. Vice and flat file fixed it quick & easy. Cuts beautifully straight now. Thanks so much! Robert Anderson
Great Video! Thanks. Some guys start out on these DIY videos by explaining what a screwdriver is, where they were born, and how many children they have. I REALLY LIKE the way you get to the point. Now I'm gonna go put my greasy bar on the kitchen table and see what the wife thinks about you! HaHa! Thanks Steve!
Thanks you for this wonderful video. I had bought a new chain thinking I was sharpening my chain wrong (which I was for the record) and it still cut crooked. Never gave the bar a second thought. My bar groove was severely worn. New bar and I'm cutting straight agin. You're tha man. I ain't ashamed to admit it.
When dressing your bar, don't forget to also de-burr the edges. That same Oregon tool (Pferd also makes a good one) that works to level the rails is also good for deburring, you just turn it to put the cutting edge on the side of the bar, rather than on top of the rails. (A regular flat file works as well.) After leveling the rails and deburring, the corners of the rails are often razor sharp. I'll generally take my flat file or bar rail dresser and make a VERY light pass with it held at a 45˚ angle to just break that corner slightly. You hands will thank you for this step if you are ever handling a bar without gloves on.
My Oregon Bar is now cutting at an angle only after 5 cords of Blue Oak.. i filed the uneven rails back to spec and its cutting even again. Thanks for the great info. Cheers from California.
I love how Steve can crack a joke, humour it right up, with a straight face still. Beer drinking does this to you. [ask me]. I got a lot out of this video as well!. Steve would get on really great with Aussies.
Even if I sent all my repair/maintenance work to a shop, I would still watch Steve's videos because he cracks me up! My cat hates it when I watch these because I scare him when I laugh! Keep it up, Steve!
Steve i do ALOT of cutting firewood i do it year round i have a husqvarna 440 and when i 1st started i had this problem many times and come to find out it was a combination of all these things. My chain wasnt sharpened correctly ( i was still learning), my chain was slightly loose ( alot of the problem) and the bar needed filed down so ive havent had it in a while but when it happens i defently know what to check know i can sharpen a chain free handed without a guide & im proud of it took alot of practice and cut fingers🤣 great video
Thanks Steve, I have worked with chainsaws since 1972 but I can always learn something from you, Thanks again Budweiser. After a 6 pack my chainsaw sometimes cuts crooked, well i think it does !!!!
I encountered this very same problem today, chainsaw cutting at a angle. And I remembered I seen this particular video pop up in the "youtube recommendations". And lookey here, here I be. Thanks Steve! Keep up the good work/info.
Thanks Steve. I'm a bit of a novice with the chainsaw and other small engine garden maintenance equipment. Finding your channel has helped me enormously. You're a champion! Particularly liked the video on starting a flooded engine. Awesome. My own chainsaw is a Stihl MS311 which I love is only a few years old and has only light use, but I reckon I learned valuable information from this video which will come in handy soon enough. Thanks a heap from country Victoria (Australia)
I don't know if you're still reading comments on this video but i borrowed an old Stihl 029 from my father-in-law and all the problems you mentioned in this video the saw has or had really. I appreciate the tips and tricks
Just subscribed. You just fixed my saw, and I watched one of your videos on a weed eater carb. You fixed it to.Thanks man! I am going to start watching more of your videos and spread the word for your channel.
Just found your site, lots of info, ✅, went cutting wood yesterday, and my Husky started doing this . Went over my saw with your tips. I’m thinking it’s bar wear, chain moves from side to side pretty good?
I just experienced this very thing. i bought new bars and now that I have time, Im going to recondition the old ones. Now I'll always have a spare set of bars when Im on a job.
I am so glad our found your channel. 👍. I have been using Stihl saws for 45 years but have learned several really good things from these videos. And you are too funny. 😆. Who knew some plastic bottles can be used for water, too. 🤣. And your comment about not really having a point of reference to the pain of childbirth being less than the pain of a sleeping relationship of steel in your eye had me laughing out loud. It has just been recently that my log cuts have not been square. I thought it was me and those darn aging muscles that was not holding the saw better. You have brightened my day in showing that it may be something to do with an old bar or wrong chain size. I'll check all the things you show here. I already feel five years younger! 😄. Thank you!
My last comment was about my 16" Husqvarna. Today I used the old 24" Husqvarna, reserved for big logs (because as I get older, it gets heavier). Whadaya know!? It cut crooked too! It will get the same bar tune up tomorrow. Thanks again Robert Anderson
I tried putting water in a similar bottle. The problem is that it never got drunk. Beer seemed to get consumed faster. In short, it’s a good container for water, but it’s a better vessel for drinking a couple beers. Especially if you only want to drink “one”.
I really liked your video. I have an Oregon CS-1500 chainsaw that cut crooked. It has a built in sharpener which didn't do me much good. A salesman told me it was because it wasn't sharpened right. I bought a replacement blade that came with a new sharpening stone . It works fine now. My other chainsaws have more standard chains and normal sharpening works fine on them. Many thanks!!
Great info for my saw I used to cut a neighbor limb that fell recently. I’ve got an electric Kobalt saw and know it’s not made for large diameter but it’s all I have…for now. My popular ‘Wild Thing’ dies after start and have to definitely clean carb & tune it. Thanks again, Mark from NC
good video steve. i'd like to ad the best repair is to avoid the problem in the first place. most wear is from lack of lube and or abrasive infiltration. a dull chain grinds dust not pull chips when that gets in the bar groove it plugs the oil supply. so proper chain sharpening tension and rail cleaning with good oil is a lot cheaper than replacement parts.
When sharpening hand saws I used a homemade tool for leveling the teeth. Take a piece of 2x and cut a groove in it to form a tight fit on your file. Works just like the store bought.
This video randomly appeared in my feed as I am a subscriber. I Ihad no idea that much Maintence went into the bar. Thanks again for another great one! Cheers!
Thanks for the excellent information Steve !! I had no idea . You definatly provide useful information, and save many of us from learning the hard way...
25 years ago I had the smallest Sthil chainsaw . I cut lots of firewood and after a year or 2 noticed the saw was cutting crooked . It got so bad the saw would bind and stop altogether. . I noticed the saw cut properly until the top of the bar was out of site in the log, then it would go crooked and bind to a stop. It turned out that the rails on the top of the bar were so stretched apart that it was wider than the cut. . At the time I had been pressing down on the saw to try to make it cut faster, and I figured that by pressing on the bar I caused the rails to widen. I could feel the sudden widening of the rails as I drew my thumb and fore finger up to the top of the bar. I had turned the bar upside down a few times when the chain came off ,or when I changed it. I loaned the saw out after getting another bar and the user just put gas ,and not a gas oil mixture in it, and destroyed the engine . I learned many things by trial and error with that little saw. I now have a Slhil 026 I bought about 20 years ago and learned much more in that time , but not as much by reading the owners manual as I have learned from your videos in the last 3 days when I subscribed to your site.. You are by far the best at everything from small details to be sure we understand ,to your way of speaking . Oh, and yes your humor , and sipping beer. Thanks for the great teaching .
You also learned not to loan out your saw. I just learned that lesson. He didn’t put bar oil in it . Fried the chain and the bar is black. He paid for a chain, but I had an extra bar so I didn’t sweat it. Lessons learned. I’m going over to his house to cut the rest of them down
Again I appreciate your complete and thorough very thorough videos. Thanks so much coming on you tube and taking the time to make such GOOD INFORMATIVE VIDEOS. PLEASE DONT QUIT !!!!!!! Please don’t. I LOVE YOUR VIDEOS. LOVE EM!!!!!
Belt sander works awesome. Also dress the sides of the rails as they get a lip. If your saw tends to get stuck as you cut wood it probably has a lip on the sides of the rails.
Just want to say thank you for doing these videos I have fixed a lot of 2 cycle motors from you and only your videos thank you again and God bless you and your family..
I replaced a bar and chain figuring it wasn’t repairable. At least now I know I could have been sold the wrong chain. I believe I still have both. I’ll check chain for correct fit and bar to see if it is actual worn and recoverable. Thank you. Great common sense video. Steve, Plymouth MA/ USA
Hi Steve, your doing a great job conveying insight and knowledge on small engine repair, I also see every now and then you like to yank viewers Chain's! LOL, Pun intended but you're still a good teacher of the small engine!
Thanks Steve. Not being around professional lumberjacks i have never heard of the bar conditioning tool before. And I watched the video on carbs to fix and ole Echo chainsaw in the corner. Thanks
"Use the kitchen table; your wife won't mind." " Metal chips in the eye hurt worse than childbirth". You sure made my wife laugh, Steve. Yes, we watch videos like this together. I like to clean the debris out of out the bar groove with a small steel ruler, and lightly chamfer the dangerously sharp edges with a piece of emery cloth. Where in Canada are you, Steve? We're in Williams Lake, British Columbia, the heart of the logging and cattle industry. Love your super informative videos! Cheers, Paul and Sandy
You two are the best! I am on Vancouver Island now, but I used to live in Williams Lake when I was a kid!!! My dads best friend still lives there I believe. His name is Greg Poulson (Pawlson maybe) has a son named Brett and another son cant remember his name....
Out in the woods the steel guild plates will clean out the bar.Well that's if today's saws still have guide plates under the bar and clutch cover. The round file will also take off the burrs on the bar,it works much faster than a flat file.I just use the flat for rakers. I hate packing in more than I need to,wrench,files (flat and round),and a screwdriver for the carb and that's all my tools I pack in. Another lil tip,today's bars have small,almost pinhole size, holes for the bar oil.Drill them out with a 1/8" bit and it'll oil the bar and chain better and last longer.Also cranking up the oiler adjuster till you almost run out of oil when you have run out of fuel.
Thanks for the tips! My bar is fairly new with minimal hours on it. It is worn uneven already. Premature wear can be an indicator that the bar is not getting enough oil as is my problem. I have an old MacCulloch Mac Pro 610 with oiler issues. Seems that wood chips end up plugging proper oil flow constantly.
Steve great channel. Note the bar file ( blue one) is actually made for sharpening skis. Mine is 30 yrs old and does work great. Tip..when the file is done I buy a bastard file then use a cut off wheel in a 4 in grinder to cut a new section to length .
Appreciated for the infor. Now know how to fix the problem , wish know where exactly where you are situated , I am at almost the other end of the country ,would love to sent you a case of the best beer from my town , merry Christmas and a happy New Year , wish you and your family the best , thank you !
Steve, I have a fs38 STIHL weed eater. I have replace the carburetor, coil, spark plug, and fuel lines and filter. When I try to crank it it back fire through carburetor. Do you have a video on this issue.??
Thanks a ton for point 4, man (rails). You just saved me a hell of a hassle trying to find a new bar with everything in lockdown due to the C19 virus. I owe you a shot of whiskey.
I was wondering as to why my cuts were going crooked. I thought it was my own poor cutting technique. I have been too embarrassed to ask anyone. Thank you Steve.
I can’t thank you enough for all of the information that you give to us on chain saws. You are now my number one hero, just so you know John Wayne was number one.
Went thru this process recently. Another helpful hint: if you have a combination square, you can hold it up to light and see where the bar is uneven. Helps to pinpoint areas of greatest wear. Don't run a chain too long on an uneven bar, you will actually render a chain unusable by making the links uneven; it's best to address it early on.
I just seen this video and the information that you provide is awesome now I know where to start checking why my chain saw is cutting crooked. Great video thanks
There is something you can do about the gap between the rails being to big. There is a tool that you use to roll down the bar to shrink them back together. Then hit it with a edge dresser and run it. Most people it isn’t worth it but when you run a saw all day every day that bar and chain money adds up big
Thanks, Steve! This was a video I really needed and will save me a lot of 💰! As for the length of your videos, they are so packed with info it really doesn't matter.
