My father died of cancer two years ago, my mother has this issue in her house. I plan on trying to fix it myself to save her the costs of hiring a professional.
Just did this today. Cut and primed the boards yesterday. Ripping out, installing new boards and trim and painting took about 3 hours to do 2. Follow his advice with cutting boards in half and sawzall. Thank you so much for your help. All of you out there considering doing this project- do it. Super easy.
Hey Dustin - Thanks for posting this video. The garage door jambs around my two garage doors have rotted pretty badly. As much DIY work as I generally tackle, I never worked on garage door framing, so I was a bit hesitant to remove the exterior jamb until I could be sure it wasn't structural support. I've been searching quite a bit online, and frankly I've been amazed at how *little* info there is that covers the kind of garage door jamb construction and replacement that you show in your video. Glad to find yours, as it's the closest I've seen to my own situation. In our case, we've got 7' doors, with the 45 degree top corners instead of a plain rectangular opening. The jambs are very similar to the 2 x 6's in your video -- but mine have a 2 x 10 profile. I just picked up half a dozen 2 x 10 x 8 pressure treated boards for these -- I'll let them dry out before painting, or possibly cover with cpvc board.
hey Jonathan! that's so awesome you found me...thanks for the heads up...need to door the 7 ' 45 door. Im glad the video helped you and Thanks so much for sharing!
@@homemend I thought some more about this last night, and now thinking about returning the PT wood and getting Douglas fir instead - lighter and easier to work than wet PT, and I can prime and paint it right away instead of waiting months for the treated wood to dry out enough to finish.
Shortly after that note, I went back to the store, picked out half a dozen clean straight douglas fir boards, brought them home and brought the treated wood back. Got some Kilz exterior primer as well -- planning to prime front and back and the exterior edges, and leave the long back edges unfinished so any remaining moisture in the wood can escape as the wood ages.
Prime and paint all 6 sides before installing jamb, this will prevent rot for the future. Water gets wind driven behind jambs and works it's way down to the bottom. This goes for any facia, trim interior and exterior that could be subject to water or moisture, including the lowest part in a house.
I wish I had seen this earlier. I needed to replace a garage header (also covered with aluminum fascia) that was rotten from termites. The one aspect I hadn't expected was the header was nailed to the jamb. As I removed one side of the header , I split the jamb a little. Not bad fortunately. I used my oscillating cutter to cut the nails on the other side... Which made it easier to remove... Nice Video...
Just wanted to say thanks for taking the time to do this stuff...you just helped me replace an exterior door...with no level! Works perfectly. PS...in another universe you could be Jack Black! Thanks again!
Great video. Going to be taking this on soon. With the gap you now have on the bottom any thoughts on adding some foam, caulk, etc to the bottom to preventing critters in?
hey select! if you have a critter problem you may want to seal with exterior grade sealant...i like quad myself but never foam..too messy. you got this!
A very needed video, however, to save the next person down the line, prime and paint all 6 sides of you jamb. Final coat can be after it is up. This will prevent any water that may get blown in and behind from rotting the jamb. This tip goes for any exterior trim, facia boards and interior trim, baseboards etc..that could possibly receive moisture. This will save you so much time in the event of a water event, especially if working with MDF. I had a rental house flood and sealing all sides saved me, even with several inches of water in the house the MDF trim held up great 15 + year after
Great helpful video. Getting my rotted 2x8x8 off was a pain in the ass because in addition to being nailed to the 2x4 in the wall, it was also butted against and nailed to the 2x4 that my garage door in mounted to. So there were nails holding it in place going 2 different directions.
great video! my top jamb is rotted and hopefully the header and everything else is ok. The metal wrap had sagged and water and ants had gotten in. rather than trying to mess with wrap, I am gonna replace the side and top jambs with pressure treated wood and then once it cures, paint. hoping that is the extent of the damage.
Mcafton That is not the extent of your issue. You need a drip cap above your garage door. I'm guessing you have an expanse of siding above your garage door. Am I correct? Good luck Marc High Quality Home Maintenance Cedar Rapids, Iowa.
I replaced my rotted wood a couple years ago & it wasn't too bad. You can't clad pressure treated wood with aluminum if you go that route..it creates a reaction with the aluminum. Just use regular lumber. The trick for piece of mind is to get away from the idea of caulking as the main element of water intrusion prevention and start thinking DIVERSION. Add flashing and drip cap like Marc mentioned. I bent some white aluminum trim coil flashing with a nice slope which covers the tops of the brick walls on either side of my garage & goes up the wall on the house about 8". Then ran aluminum flashing down the short vertical (top piece lapped over these side pieces of course)of those walls into a 105 degree drip cap(has a 15 degree slope downward away from the house) which runs along the top board of the 2 car garage opening. This drip cap is folded on each end in such a way as to create a continuous dam without relying on caulk to seal the 1" high dam on the end. The flashing from the verticals overlap and drop into this sloped drip cap with dammed ends. The bottom of the vinyl J channel was drilled with 1/4" holes every 12" to shed water quickly & was then put on top of this flashing/drip cap, then siding re-installed. Water flows off the siding into the j channel and immediately back out the bottom of the vinyl J channel &, hits the 15 degree slope of the drip cap then rushes away from the house and off the edge of the drip cap which hangs off about 3/4" over the edge of the cladded board across the top of the garage. water has no way of hanging around or pooling and creeping/ seeping into any caulked cladding overlaps like it did before.Any caulking is on the flashing where it meets the brick...and I used white Vulkem polyurethane. Even if you didn't caulk these verticals at all the water intrusion prevention is taken care of on the largest part of the problem: the 16'2" horizontal area directly over the garage than unleashes torrents of rain down the side of the house and into J channel then out to the drip cap..any little bit of rain that got in on the verticals with such a small surface area where rain hits would be minimal...but caulk anyways! My garage jamb is dry as desert sand even in the heaviest rains and will remain so until the house falls down. No more reliance on caulk.
@@homemend Well being a first time home buyer, thanks for teaching me what the hell a jamb was! Never heard it, prior! Now I'm looking for ways to sneak it into normal, everyday conversation. Haha
Hey Justin - if he customer then asked you to do the finishing (painting, etc) - how would you bill for that?? Or would you just throw that in? Also - what if they asked you AFTER the repair, would you bid it like a separate job or just update the final invoice?
J G hey jg! Great question! After they told me I would give them the price to add it on. So there’s no surprises at the end. I believe in paying full price for good work so I would definitely charge the customer. I would add the “ painted new jamb “ and the additional charge on the final. If they wanted you to come back and do it later of course they would need to pay at least the minimum service charge. It’s typically cheaper to get it done all at the same time. I hope this helps and thanks so much for the comment!
Thank you for this great film. may I know what size of the finishing nails did you use. The door jamb is rotten on the bottom and I need to replace it.
@@homemend Thank you, Justin, for the replay. As you might remember I'm working on updating our fence, but here came across another problem w/those door jambs. But do you remember what size did you use? I want exactly same. You are an expert, it is better to follow your particular approach. Thank you kindly again.
Hey Chris any wood that’s painted is usually under treated pine. Treated wood looks terrible when it’s painted. You could always put a couple coats on the bottom where the cut is
I just ask someone to do it for me and he first want to charge me $2,500 then reduce it to $1,500. Thank you so much for the video. I think we can do it under $400.
Hey linh, that guy was charging you to much for the repair. I'm doing double garage doors. Replacing 4 pieces of the 2x8 trim that was rotten. Charge the customer $485.00 to install & paint Louisiana area
So making the trim 82 1/2" long, leaving that 1/2" hole on the bottom. What do you fill the gap with that would be more or less rot proof, that would also keep rodents from gnawing and crawling under that 1/2" gap?
My driveway grades down toward my garage door, so water has been getting into the garage under the bottom of the door jambs (which are rotting and need to be replaced). How do you recommend sealing the 1/2" gap below the door jamb to prevent water intrusion?
Hey Angela, if water is running towards the garage then we need to stop the water from running towards the garage, possibly divert it somewhere else? They do have garage door jam seals but they are not much for keeping water out that is flowing towards the house.
Hey Alex, you would replace it the same way… This metal wrap could not be saved and would need to be re-wrapped, if it’s the header, it would replace it the same way… The garage door jam structural integrity will keep it together while you replace it. I hope this helps.
I like it man. Great video. I see where derby said to prime both sides which i cant disagree with that, i wouldn't have thought of that. But with that 1/2" gap from your base to your side plate, would you silicon the full gap to ensure no water reaching the wood or no? Then put your flashing over it. My thought is prime both sides with paint and then silicone the gap to make it 100% water tight... thoughts?
Gregg Louis hey Gregg! I’ve always left the bottom gap open...unless you have water coming in. IMO priming both sides is a little overkill. I hope the video helped and thanks so much for commenting!
The average field or house mouse can easily squeeze through a 1/4 gap. A 1/2" gap will invite a slew of insects, mice spiders, scorpions etc. depending on where you live. I only replace rotted jambs using pressure treated lumber and only with a 1/8" gap at the bottom to keep out the mice and then completely fill the gap with a 100% silicone sealant to keep out the rain and smaller insects.
Hi Dustin, I've got a rotted header that looks like it was the result of a missing drip edge. I'm not sure if this is common. Have you seen this before? The header and jamb are both rotted. Any recommendations?
Hope you can suggest how to fix this: One side of the garage door post due to roof leak has rotted away. (Roof fixed) So door is now (when closed) leaning inward on one side only. (My elderly parents home but I have to fix. No males around to help me or advise. I do all repairs alone) I am afraid to open the door fully because I think the door would fall on me? I am very handy with tools but have not tackled anything like this. I think IF I open the garage door fully all that weight (yes just aluminum door) will make it fall. Am I wrong? Any help is very much appreciated. I learn so much from all you wonderful talented men that want to share your knowledge. Be well.
hey thanks blonde! its hard to tell you if its safe of not...i would ( if it has one) disconnect the garage door opener by the pull cord and try to lift it by hand.. the door probably wont fall but i would have 2x4s cut to length for emergency braces...i hope this helps..
Can you tell me the type of wood you used for the replacement? Looks like 2x6x8 Pine? My handyman framed in my carport with pressure treated wood and I'd like him to replace with a more finished wood that I can paint.
Your handyman did it right. If you'd like it better, get Kiln pressure treated, or wait until that pressure treated dries out (about a month) , spackle the knots and paint it.
@@goiocarlos he did everything ok except for not giving me space at the bottom and he used pressure treated for the header as well. I left it as it is. Thank you
I know this is an old thread - but I just found it (I'm in the middle of replacing my garage door jambs), and thought it's good to keep the content updated, questions answered, etc. The video and discussion has helped me, and could help others. Re: pressure treated lumber: I actually bought half a dozen 2" x 10" x 8' pressure treated boards yesterday and brought them home -- but read some more and thought about this last night and reconsidered. Depending on how recently the wood was treated, how wet it is, and the weather conditions (rain, humidity, sun, etc.) around you, PT lumber could take anywhere from weeks to several months to dry sufficiently for you to paint it -- you can test it periodically by spattering some water on it: if the water soaks in, it's ready to prime and paint. If it sits on the surface or just runs off without anything soaking in, it's still not ready to paint. Once it IS dry, pressure treated can certainly be primed and painted and will hold up for many years. I chose to return mine and came back today with douglas fir instead: not being wet, these are half the weight of the treated boards, and can be sawed and drilled and will accept nails and screws far more easily. I've got Kilz exterior primer (for both sides and the exterior edges), and hope to get this all done either tomorrow or the next day. :)
Just the thing I needed to see. My circumstance is a bit different. This house is built in 1954. The door from first glance is trimmed with 2 x 6 materials on all three sides. Looking on the inside of the door construction, this 2 x 6 has its interior edge capped by a 2 x 4. My door hardware is fasted to this 2 x 4 on the 3-1/2" face. I can not determine if this 2 x 6 frame trim is structural. I don't know if its standard practice to have this only and always be trim. I have the same severe rot at the bottom and this is only made worse with the build up of resurfacing or sealing over the man years of existence. If its is structural, I would guess a cut out and splicing in new lumber at the bottom would be in order. Or, having metal capping made as I doubt I will find the right stuff at Depot or Lowes. It would probably be beneficial to add a weather stripping too. Many would say, replace that old wooden door. i'm selling in a couple years so I'm not putting in the expense unless I can deal with it myself. I can take that into consideration too but the 2 x 6 trim jamb still have to be fixed. Thanks.
wow paul..sounds like youre mentally ready...you may be able to sawzall the 2x4 away from the 6 and pull it out as a whole... typically a grage door jamb is npot structural but if its a concern you could brace it... splicing sounds like a good idea...thanks for sharing!
@@homemend At this point I think a splice might be a reasonable repair. Im tearing off and replacing the 1954 cedar shakes on the garage, my last, wall. Figured I'd get after this jamb. Thanks.
Subscribed! My seller has wood rot on the inside of the interior garage wood frame; at the bottom. Can you cut out just what is rotten and replace a section on the bottom?
Anna Crabtree hey Anna! Yes you certainly can but I like to do at least 2 feet or so, so you’re not left with a small replaced piece. I hope this helps! Thanks for commenting!.
You make it look easy, that's for sure. But, still, somehow, I can't imagine myself being able to do it and do it right. A bit above my dollhouse-making skill level, I'd say!
Z Stone z! You got this man. The hardest part is gaining the confidence to do it. In the dollhouse game, I’m sure your attention to detail is on point. You can do this. Thanks for commenting now get out there!
really great video but I disagree with one part: I would use treated wood and cut clear to ground with maybe a 1/32 inch gap. Otherwise, with a 1/2 inch short cut, mice will get into that garage. If you have a way to cut it short like you did and prevent mice, I'm listening.
Hey, are three. Great, however, using treated lumber on a house isn’t recommended… Toxic fumes produced when burnt… this one was not being painted it was being wrapped in aluminum trim coil, which would be cut closer to the ground and sealed
Where can you find metal wrapping to replace the damaged pieces? Is it aluminum material? Everything I'm reading says not to put aluminum directly on pressure treated wood. Thank you! Very helpful video.
sandw08 amos correct. You usually do not wrap pressure-treated wood with aluminum. This particular material is aluminum trim coil which is sold in rolls at the Home Depot and Lowe's. You would need to bend it in the shape and dimensions of your wood. Typically garage door jambs are made of untreated lumber. I hope this helps and thanks for watching.
hey spark! just a semigloss exterior trim paint would be fine.. most of the time trim is done in semigloss but if youre trying to match a metal color, a matte may be better.. i hope this helps!
hey maxton!....great question....i usually run them the same length because it ends up looking out of place....i hope this helps,,,thanks for commenting
Barry G hi Barry! Typically they are white aluminum nails. I use them because they are white and I usually have them. But galvanized finish nails will work awesome!
hey renee! dont be intimidated...it just looks scary..you can! . I think this repair minus paint cost less than 20 . You could call a "handyman service" or a general contractor and they should be able to take care of it...thanks so much for watching.
You dont put anything below the half inch gap you left? I had to fill in mine becaue bugs, water, mice and wind was blowing and getting inside.. left like a perfect little dugout and thats what they did, dug it out until they were inside... was hoping you had some witty fix for that..
hey z ack...you can fill it with mortar. It may be the best but i also like to use quad..its hardcore exterior sealant that will keep out all that..i hope this helps! thanks for commenting!
what is a fair price to pay a contractor to cut out pieces that are rotten and wrap on metal? There is rot at the bottom two sides and across the top in the middle where they were originally pieced together. Can anyone help?
hey crafty.. if they are replacing 3 sides of the garage door jamb and rewrapping in metal, I would say 350-400ish... if you have a stock color,, if its a color no one stocks, a roll of metal is 75 per roll.. they may play a factor..however if it is wrapped they would only need to cut out and replace the rot, as it doesn't need to be paint grade. I hope this helps..
hey TG great suggestion.. however we dont really used treated lumber for painted or wrapped trim. the paint turns out green and wrapping it causes the aluminum to lose its finish..i hope this helps! thanks for commenting.
