Watching him use that tool that folds the seal inwards to reduce the diameter so it'll fit in the bore, was more helpful than anything I've seen on RU-vid in the past three months. THANKS!!!
Great video. I specifically needed to know whether the cylinder needed to be bled once put back on the tractor, and Hoot answered that clearly and definitively. I love RU-vid.
Same here, I searched for bleeding procedures for an hour. Guess they don't need to since it will sef purge like a car's power steering system after a few full cycles
Thanks for posting. Hoot did an excellent job explaining the cylinder rebuild. I'm sure he has a wealth of knowledge to go with all of his years of experiance. I hope you bought him lunch for taking time to give us a how to video. Stay safe.
Great video! I have the exact same loader and had a leaking bucket cylinder. I was able to disassemble and replace the seals with no issue, however I question the use of grease during reassembly. I did not want to contaminate my recently-changed hydraulic oil and so I simply coated the piston, gland and cylinder threads with fresh hydraulic oil and had no issue with reinsertion. I agree with Greg W.'s comment .... don't show people how to correctly do something and then suggest they don't do it! Also, buy the seal insertion tool; works great! After all, when you DIY, the tools are free!
It makes it hard to concentrate on rebuilding the cylinder when all I want to do is stare at the calendar girl. I really appreciate seeing this done because I recently had a 3" boom cylinder rebuilt at the dealer. Now I see why it cost me about $150. No way I would want to tackle this job just to screw it up. Thanks Mike.
If you had any cylinder re packed for $150 over 2" then keep taking it to the dealer. I paid a hydraulic shop 360.00 to rebuild a Case bucket cylinder put it back on and the other side started leaking. This time I purchased a seal kit from the local Case dealer (Border Equipment) and the kit cost me 80.00. The loose nut on the video repair makes it look easy. In real life those nut are on so tight you need a four foot pipe over a 3/4 dr breaker bar to take them off.
Just watched this today and immediately went out and replaced the seals in my Kubota front loader bucket cylinder. It was an easy 2 hr job. It would have been a nightmare if I had only watched some other DIY you tube videos. Getting the tips from a pro made all the difference in the world. Now I will have no fear doing this again when the other seals go out on my 19 year old tractor.
Thankyou Sir. Your video presentation was super. It not only provided the correct procedure to repair a cylinder but helped us to save cost by doing on our own.Imparting your knowledge and experience is wonderful.
Thanks Mike. I watched about three videos. This one has excellent video of the process and technical explanation/warnings. Thanks. No leaks and nice and powerful, Kubota B26 front loader #1 left cylinder.
Thanks Mike...HOOT you are the Man! Thank you! I can (hopefully) fix my wrecker with confidence! Little things, like taking apart the outer rear seal BEFORE removing it. And Mike, I've never done it, despite your snarky "it'll leak" comment, with Hoot's help...I bet I'm first time successful!
Thanks for sharing this video. I am doing my cylinders now and this answered almost all of my questions. The only thing I did not see was an alternate way to insert the aluminum cylinder head onto the shaft. He used a hammer hitting the head and the head then went onto the shaft; however, I can tell you not all u-cup seals are so easy to pass over the that shaft variance (by the threads) with that amount of ease. A tool does exist which expands the u-cup seal just enough to pass over the variance. But, it was still a good video.
I have driven 9 and 10 car transporters for decades. If I learned anything, repacking only 1 cylinder in a multi cylinder application will always make the older cylinders seem slow. I always had both repacked at the same time, to avoid uneven raising and lowering.
Thanks for the video! After seeing that little tool you used to install the inner ring, I ran down to the barn and got 2 pare of needle nosed plyers. It worked perfectly! Thanks
Strange showing a how to vid yet at 1.14 you say people that do not or have not done this before have no business attempting . If they own the hydraulic cylinder they can do what they like . sounds sarcastic
Mike What about oil lost when you pull the hoses and the residual in the cylinder? Probably need a few quarts at least. Even if you catch it, not sure it's clean enough to go back in. Plus its hydrostatic, so it goes in the rear section I'm guessing. Good work by Hoot Just show us everything.
I do too. He knows a lot more than I do and people tend to like him better, I'd be a little worried about him starting his own RU-vid channel and taking all of my viewers but I'm pretty sure he doesn't own a computer :).
Another great video, thanks, Tractor Mike. I'm curious whether both cylinders had internal leaks. If not, I wonder how your guy figured out which cylinder was the bad one. And, if the other cylinder was still good, how did the loader drop? I would think one would be sufficient to hold up the empty loader bucket.
This was very interesting and educational. Could I do this myself? Probably but I want the ram back in service soon. My time has value too and sometimes we aren’t saving money doing it ourselves.
Hey Mike! We live and breathe hydraulics down in Alabama. Give us a call next time you have a cylinder repair job. We have all the components and seal kits.
I liked the video and the technician knew his business, and corrected that problem quickly. I would probably do like you did and take my tractor to a garage and let a professional fix the problems.
How long should it take to rebuild a cylinder? I had a small bucket cylinder rebuild at a John Deere place and they charged me for two hours labor . I don’t think it should take any where near that long ?
Actually pretty easy to do if you pay attention to details. . But , I was trained to repair equipment in a Nuclear Power Plant on an aircraft carrier... so anything on a tractor is simple in comparison.
thanks for sharing, but when you posting a how to video, you should not say if your not an expert don't attempt this. other wise what is the point of the how to video
Thanks for posting an sharing Mike, only thing i didnt see was how the bladder went in shaft barrel pretty easily,,was there a special cup to shrink the seals before goin in hydrolic sleeve??, Thnks
Mike, I have a NH7308 loader lift cylinder (not the bucket) and I cannot get the cylinder cap to turn at all. Use there a truck to it??? Thank you great video
I'm the guy who never repaired any cylinder. When seal kit arrives I would repair cylinder on my trailer. So we would see do I have or not business with it. :)
I did not find this video clear at all about the direction or order of seals. Like what end is the lip? It needs more detail so someone can actually see the seal.
I would like to know what type of lubrification is required on those cylinders when they are not in use to protect them from humidity, water for potential rust. Some say putting thick grease on them but I wonder if contamination would be a problem or would be a good idea to put hydraulic fluid on them while in storage . Thanks
I agree, why say it can only be done by an expert. Also, this video is supposed to be showing how to rebuild, instead it shows a qualified mechanic just pulling it apart.
Mike I have been a viewer of your for a year or so. . learned a lot NOW i have problem I need 2 master brakes cylinders for an International Diesel 284 Dealer does not carry anymore (I called more than one dealer) Called Cook Tractor Salvage in Missouri - Came highly recommeded. very helpful. . . they carry the brake cylinder but were out.. tried several other online places - no luck Any suggestions for where to call for after marker - or salvage cylinders - OR a rebuild kit for the master cylinder? Thanks so much for your show Randall
I'd try Spring River Salvage in Verona, Missouri at: (417) 235-2233. They're IH people. Might also try All States Ag Parts, with a gazillion locations, but a big one in Sikeston at (573) 471-2727. Good luck!
That is actually a really bad thing. Hydraulic oil is very toxic. My friend whom never wore protective gear and was neck deep in hydraulic oil all the time is still struggling from health related issues because he never got protective gear. Your skin isn't a protective layer it is more like a sponge.
Hey guys I'm about to replace the seals in both my tilt cylinders n a Bobcat s630. Is it also the same as the tractor where I don't need to bleed anything? Can I just fire it up?
How does the system deal with the grease that is used inside the cylinder? Does it just dissolve into the hydraulic oil, get caught in the filter, or just stay there? Just curious. Pretty amazing how fast Hoot was able to repair that. I might try it on something older and not my primary machine, but would never undertake that on my tractor. Also, how did he check for external leaks other than by sight?
Good question. Im used to be a tractor mechanic myself. And has always thought about that to. It is pretty much standard procedure in the business to lubricate o-rings, valves etc.with grease. In an ideal world u should lubricate for assembly with same type of fluid that the part is working with during service. In this case hydraulic fluid. Nevertheless I have never seen any type of problem with grease in oil or diesel fuel in my years. To calm my mind I try to use the same brand of grease as the oil because then hopefully you have a little chance that the manufacturer have made compatible products that mix together and don't react chemically.
Matt, I'm sorry I missed your question before, it just popped up again, I don't think there's enough grease there to worry about, and I'm not for sure, I'd say it just goes into the hydraulic system and dissolves there. I'll ask Hoot next time I see him and try to remember to post his answer. If you leave the loader frame and bucket up in the air and it doesn't come down, there aren't any leaks.
I'm concerned about this also, since I have a CVT transmission and a common sump. With a CVT transmission, I don't want to add anything that would change the oil's characteristics.
I am trying to get power steering hydraulic cylinder off my Massey Ferguson 283 UK Total Pain in the butt. Got to get mechanic out to the farm to help. Still haven't got it yet. Then I have to haul it over an hour to Elberton Ga to get it repaired.
Where do you get that special tool that folds that inner seal into a pretzel? That is what I am stumped on at the moment. EDIT: Never mind. Uncle Google found it for me. Very nice video.
is there a pin wrench to use in the gland ring ? some probably do not or the gland ring nut is just that a nut. I am not being critical as I never did this work... just wondering other applications use the other tool...
Oops...I use the term "guys" to refer to a group of people, without thought about gender, and have been called out on it before. I teach a class in ag sales at the local university and , out of habit, I start every lecture with "Okay guys, we're going to get started", which may offend half the class. I wince when hearing that when uploading the lecture. Something to work on, old habits are hard to break...
Tractor Mike, my degree is from the Department of Agriculture, my comment was in jest. It's fine. Love the videos! Also, my 3 year old sings the 'Farmer in Dell' 🎼The farmer takes a husband... the farmer takes a husband... then says "cause your the farmer, right mama?"
Hoot says the threads are likely bad somewhere. He thinks you could probably find the problem on the gland and repair it, he recommends a machine shop if the problem is inside the cylinder. Hope that helps...good luck!
Hey Mike. I've come across a John Deere 2140 MFWD for sale but the guy says the #1 gear range is out. Is it worth buying and trying to get fixed or should I steer clear
Steer clear. I'm double checking with a friend who is a former Deere dealer, but anytime you have a tractor with something that major wrong, it can be bigger and more expensive than expected and I'd vote to avoid.
Here's the answer from Steve, a former Deere dealer who agrees: We had a customer buy one on a auction. It was a 2550. Similar situation and $15,000 later we had it working perfectly. The range was out but metal shavings got into the hydraulic system and it had to have a new pump and several valves that were messed up. Also several other bearings in the transmission had taken metal and we were afraid to use them again.
He's fun to watch. He can be done with a job while I'm still trying to find where I put down my adjustable wrench. I've literally asked him thousands of mechanical questions during the 11 years we worked together and have never stumped him or known him to be wrong. I am in awe of guys with those skills.
Great question, I don't know the answer. I purchased the tractor used in 2010 and it was like that when I got it. Next time I see Hoot I'll ask him why they do that. I'm not sure, maybe the last guy who worked on it caused it.
Lol, I bet that's what it was.....the LAST guy! j/k Actually, I think I have the same problem on a 2 year old tractor, bought new, with only around 170 hours on it. The manufacturer nor dealer has impressed me with their willingness to take care of warranty issues so I was wondering if there was something to troubleshoot first before I called the dealer or tore into it myself. I think mine is with the actual lift cylinders. I heard one groan a couple times the other day when I left the FEL up with the tractor off but with an empty bucket. Not sure if it would do it with the tractor running.
I haven't had a chance to really check it yet. The tractor is kept on some land I have about 20 miles away and I usually rest the bucket on some stuff I don't want to walk away too easily. When I get a chance, I'll leave it up and curl the bucket too see if I can figure out what's leaking, if anything. I haven't seen any external leaks though. I watched your other video with Hoot. How did you determine which cylinder was the culprit?
Why did he say amateurs shouldn't do this job? This is about a thousand times easier than simply replacing the rear cylinder on my JD 430. Where is the hard part here? Why discourage people from saving money?
