For the purest. They will always criticize. But for the guy on a budget. This is awesome. Everyone don't have welders or air compressed tools. I appreciate this video for what it is. Great job.
I like the idea...this might not be the real fix, it's a poor man's fix. This will help alot of us that don't have welding skills or tools. Thnx for the video
Very clever use of wax paper for shaping. This method also helps to minimize the amount of sanding. For better dust control in the finishing process, I would certainly encourage the use of more hand tools like files and sanding blocks. This is obviously not the method for restoring a classic car but for your every day beater with only a few more years of life left in it, it's quite adequate.
Oh my word, the criticisms! Look, what this guy is doing is helping out those of us who drive our vehicles into the ground. Along the way, they get battered and sometimes rusty. Do you take an 8 year old car with perhaps 8 more years of life to a professional body shop and pay $1000's for show quality repairs of a beater or do you just want the daily driver to look decent until the day it throws a rod out the oil pan? If the latter, do what this guy is showing and get it done while not making a body shop rich. Stop criticizing the repairs this guy is demonstrating just because they won't win concours auto shows. That's totally not what he's demonstrating. These are decent economical repairs for what they're intended for people who are going to DIY.
If you are so piss poor that you can't afford to weld it properly, just keep in mind that you drive one winter and the road salt will eat away the metal under the patch and the patch will just fall off. If you are poor, you can't afford doing this repair. These kind of repairs are only done if you want to sell the car quick.
Relax, 4banger. What if you don't drive in an area with road salt? The patch will likely last the rest of the life of the car if the existing rust is removed or neutralized. Mission accomplished. And if it lasts one more year, that's one more year with minimal investment in keeping the car decent looking. Buying any vehicle used requires careful inspection throughout, so an alert buyer will find the problem. Again, this work has its proper place. Not always, not peferred, but acceptable under certain conditions.
...Wanna know what I tell those critics? If you don't like what I'm doing to fix my vehicle and keep it running a little longer...YOU can step up to the plate and buy me a better one! If you can't or don't want to, then shut your goddamn pie hole! Plain and simple, I don't stand for their crap!
Dude. I was skeptical at first, but you did a great cosmetic DIY fix. To the people who claim this area is structural.... They literally have no idea how a car works or is built whatsoever. It's considered the quarter panel. On most cars they are removable. They aren't structural. Good job
Ps fibreglass is stronger to steel only in strength to weight ratio..... If that was important cars would be made out of bamboo. Stop trying to pretend your educated!
atomgonuclear Yeah ok dude 3 words unibody and rocker panel. Bet if that car is in a collision it folds in on itself on that side. The only real repair for this comes in the form of new steel and a welder. Cosmetically it looks better but it decieves people into thinking the car is structurally sound which it is most certainly not. Half ass repairs of cars will equal death real quick. And anyone who would cover a point like this where children are more likely to be sitting next to the shit repair is a great big giant asshole.
Good video. I was intimidating by needing to repair the rusted rear quarters in my 73 Chrysler until I saw this. Now I have the courage to tackle what previously appeared to be a formidable task. Thanks for recording and posting this. I found it to be educational, informative and encouraging. Don't sweat the haters, I'm seeing 7 likes for every 2 dislikes, if that's your score I call that a win.
Thanks for sharing this. Now, I feel like I can do my own work on my old work vehicle. I just use it for hauling building material; including dirt, cement, sand, etc. It doesn't have to be perfect, just safe from the elements.
Awesome work. Something to note for the all the pros who are trash talking. I know body work is not "work" for you guys, it's "art" (and I respect that). Where you guys go wrong is disregarding that it's not worth putting $1000 work into a $3000 car. If I am going to drop $1000 I'm looking at my brakes, bearings, suspension and tires long before I'm looking at the body work. I'll take a hack there any day to save a grand.
Where you go wrong is following a youtube video to repair something that can go ~100mph with you in it. Just because you can't see it, doesn't mean it isnt there. Just because your rear axle isnt hanging loose yet doesn't mean it wont in the future. This goes for *structural* rust.
Kurt, you are The Man! Thank you for make this kind of videos for all of us. It will take some patience to get it done sometimes and it seems to be that you have it all.
That's one fantastic idea you have there. You save 75 percent of the nasty shaping sanding process. As far as lasting this is as good as it gets for a daily driver that is already rusted like this. You can cut and weld till the cows come home and everything else will still rust. You will get a decent looking 3 years from that repair maybe 4 if you live in the road salt world but that is all the car will give you anyways. Best of all it's cheap, simple and effective. GREAT JOB.
Despite all the hate you received on most of these rust repair videos Kurt, thanks for them regardless! I think it's fine for a daily beater or winter car as you stated in the disclaimers. Up here in VT we have some crazy Winters and even crazier road salt. Eats these things alive. Great for a quick patch up job on something you wouldn't dream of throwing replacement panels to. Even if it is the "hack" way 😁
This is what I do to all my older vehicles after I kill the rust sand blast the area rough it up and seal it from both sides. Never have they rusted. Very excellent work my friend.
looks great and saves thousands of dollars....i would have patched the inside hole with lead to make it have more stronger support then just a open hole lead is very cheap and when it hardens forms really nicely...this is a great vid.
Hey, thanks. So all the BIG experts think it should be cut out and welded. Well, many of us have no money OR welding skills. We just want a cheap fix that we can do ourselves. Truthfully, by the time this type of fix falls off, my old car will be in the wrecking yard.
I know this is a very old video but this is the best tip I have ever got on RU-vid. Thank you sir. It's works so good, you could never spread this stuff good enough in difficult places and have it come out so well without your tip. Thank again.
Hey I am a Professional DIY Video Critic and I have a lot to say about this video. 1. It offends all the body shop pro's that for some reason watch DIY videos in their free time. 2. See now you got all the rookies commenting looking stupid by saying cut and weld a new panel on, that is such a hack fix. Correct way is to replace the entire car. 3. Most of the pro's haven't finished editing their videos BUT WHEN THEY DO....! You know they have to be sweet with the comments they are leaving.
For someone with an '87 GMC VANDURA 1500 with holes on the sides, this is a great part of a simple fix. I like the use of the wax paper for smoothing out the area.
I wont even bother reading the negative posts, but in his defense, its not a Porsche and it did the job. Fiberglass has structural integrity and I have used this method on small repairs on a 4x4 that gets twisted and articulated off road and I haven't seen any sign of the repair coming apart. So hey, there may be a better way for those master techs and engineers with expensive tig welders or those who can afford to pay a fabricator 100/hour to make it bulletproof, but in the end this repair did its job and I'm sure will last longer than the car. So kurtscottage don't sweat the negative people. The world will never have a shortage of them. What the world needs is more people like you who go for it and make a positive difference. I used polyester resin with fiberglass, but you gave me the idea of short strand with fiberglass and it looks a heck of a lot easier and quicker. Thank you
Good video and for certain problems it can work. I have done it for years on places that are not frame supportive. Dont let the negative posts get you down buddy.
Thanks brother, awesome help. I'm a cabinet maker not a body guy. But I prefer to fix things myself as they tend to last longer and I love my dodge. Can't let her die, she's been good to me and the most damn comfortable truck I've ever been in!
There are a lot of haters out there.everyone is saying he shouldn't do this or that way.But most of the professional does the same thing just a little bit better and charge you a arm and a leg for it.Kurt keep doing what you are doing not everyone have 1000 to 1200 to give away to some of these so call professional paint shops.
totally dig it. it was exactly what i was looking for to repair some areas that were not easily replaced with metal on the curved surfaces of a 50 year old truck. they don't make replacement pieces for some things . thanks for the share.
When I was in the automotive business back in the early 1970's we called people who did work like this "paper hangers". Whether right or wrong, methods like this were used to makes rust buckets look better cosmetically prior to selling them off to unsuspecting buyers. The problem with these patch repairs is within a short period of time, sometimes as little as three months, the paint will invariably start to lift. This is because auto body fillers are in fact porous and water will get in from behind and start to lift the finish. The only type of body filler that will last for any length of time under these circumstances is lead and there are not many out there anymore who know how to apply it properly or would spend the money as it is rather expensive. So here is a little tip for you. If you are looking at a vehicle, take a small magnet with you. (a reasonably strong fridge magnet will do) Place the magnet on areas where rust blisters are known to be a problem. If it sticks, chances are reasonably good that the car is not corroded out or if it was rusted, the repair was done properly. If it doesn't, walk away and save yourself some grief. I remember looking at one car, a 1972 Dodge Charger, and found that neither rocker panel would hold a magnet. When I looked under the car, there was a row of metal screws running along the inside of each rocker that were obviously not factory installed. I called a friend of mine who was a body man and he told me that the rockers were probably totally gone and that what they had done was installed a wooden 3 x 3 or 4 x 4 and held it in place with the screws. They then used a body grinder to grind it to rough shape, covered it with bondo and paint, and voila: new rockers for about 1/4 the cost of replacement.........
+Norman May Paper hangers - never heard that one. I did body work back in the 70s too and got many years out of some repairs like this. I agree that any repair done this way with common Bondo-type fillers would bubble up fast. Critical to me was that the filler said "waterproof" on the can. If I remember correctly, "Tiger Hair" was such a fiberglass bondo-type filler. Another that was only around for a short time was "Satin Seven," which was not stranded and could be used for top-coating too. Finish by taking the body Shutz gun ans applying undercoating to the back side of the repair. I like your Dodge Charger comment! My last new vehicle purchase was 1986. I like to see the underside of any vehicle I am interested in. Apparently most folks don't, based on the strange looks and hard time I typically get when I ask. All vehicles are six sided but dealers really don't want customers looking at side number six for any reason.
The reason they called them paper hangers was the fact on rusted out areas they were know to actually use paper mache and window screen to fill in the voids. When this mess was dry, they then laid strips of newspaper with wallpaper paste over that. Next can the coat of filler. Bondo is expensive don't you know.....LOL
The type of material shown in this video is not porous. It is not even really a "filler" in that it is not designed to fill small imperfections in an otherwise flat surface. It is designed to craft entirely new shapes and structures, where none exist or to cover large holes and gaps (with proper backing to support). It bonds to just about anything, and is incredibly strong once cured. I recently repaired some sheet metal with it, and it was stronger than the metal when I was done. (These metal vs. plastic discussions regarding DIY body work remind me of talking about PEX on plumbing websites. It immediately brings all of the copper pipe old-timers out of the woodwork talking about "the only way to do this and that correctly is..." meanwhile I built my shower by myself, for a fraction of the cost, it looked professionally installed, and never leaked a drop.).
I'll also point out that metal, no matter how carefully installed will always be subject to new rust at some point. However, the material he is using in the video will never. ever. ever. ever. rust. ever. The entire remainder of the body could turn to rust dust and that little spot he fixed will still be just as it is.
I'm glad I watched this. My van is very old and I will be patching a large area in a few minutes this way because I'm not keeping it more than another year. I haven't done body work in years and this video reminded me of the wax paper step to make the final finishing easier. Thanks. I was thinking about replacing the 2 body parts, but not worth the cost for 1 more year of use.
just curious, how long did the repair hold up? also, using the paper to mold it seems like a nice trick. Also also is there a use in using several layers of fiber, to make it stronger?
I'm agree this is a very economical way to do a repair, of course if you wanted to do it the right and you know how weld that's a better option you know how we here in my town, I had a rusty car they not even wanted touch it. I said is time to see some videos on you tube videos to learn some knowledge from this guys
Before discovering the big machines man wore their best skills to make things, when it discovered the fiberglass there were many gibes and bad criticism, now have had to shut his mouth, I'm 68 years old and I've seen in the industry as they have evolved in the new findings.Brother continues and continues to apply your knowledge but be careful not to say what you know because there are people so they don't understand, that you have much success in your projects, don't give up ever.
Kurt it would be cool if you would post a followup video of this fix. I'm interested to know how this fix has stood up over the test of time - 3+ years.
The floor in my ram was an old washing machine surround held down with sheet screws beat in place with a 10 lbd hammer and sprayed with bedliner drilled and forgotten about. There are thousands of ways out there to fix rust and I personally applaud him for what he did. Not everyone's rich my bronco is more aluminum flashing and bondo than factory steel but the motors strong and the frame is epic. No reason to put a good horse down because it has no fur.
This is great... I'll be using this technique for my car, but also for sculptures and other crazy art projects. I freaking love how practical shop stuff can be used for other creative projects. Thanks for putting a list of the products/tools you use!
what's weird about the negative comments, you had disclaimers flashing throughout the video stating, This Was For Entertainment Purposes & it being a cheap fix for a car that really wasn't worth doing it the professional way... I received your video well, the dumb asses were gonna hate it no matter what.
Thanks man! A lot of thanks :) I just followed your steps and that spared me 50 bucks and a lot of nerves. I used bandage (fiberglass band). And ratio was 2 drops of strenghtner on a table spoon of polyester. Thanks again!
Well. I am a custom car builder and shop owner. I have over 20 years of experience. This is the wrong way to do a rust repair. Pannels replacement is the correct way.
People can hate this all they want, it's an old car and it's going to rust no matter how well you try to repair it. This is a really good example of how you can at least slow it down and some holes.
how about filling in that cavity with spray foam. then cut it and sand it to its shape and then add the fiber cloth and resin. let it dry and start sanding and leveing. primer and primary coat and their you have it.
Me to! Ha ha! Got a twin turbo conversion coming up on my wife's car. While digging around I saw a nice rust patch in the trunk near the gas tank. This video is perfect help.
I liked this put for a different reason I was watching others do BONDO for furniture I had to manufacture a piece That was 1 1/2 inches big and couldn't for the life of me figure how to do this. your video showed me how to do this with the wax paper to keep it from sticking thank you very much.
An alternative for the wax paper is cellophane wrapping, the thing to keep food fresh in the fridge. Never ever sticks to your polyester or epoxy, you can shape the resin easy and cleanly, you can leave it on the piece until fully cured.
Thank you for taking the time to post this video. It was very helpful- especially the wax paper trick. Ignore the jerks who have nothing better to do but post negative comments. The majority of us appreciate that you and others take time out of you busy day to help someone else.
I really have to laugh at the people who say how "dangerous" this is. It's a cosmetic repair method that has been around for ages. Now the dude will be able to get an inspection sticker, and he will be picking up chicks like crazy. What's the biggie?
This is dangerous for the people living around the car, street walkers or car drivers if the car body have a failure, hope that my familly never crossed this this car at this moment.
This is cheap and economical repair for older vehicles. I was looking for something this kind of educational video. thanks for sharing information. Good one!! Newer cars have most of body parts now made of fiber glass. And this is easy and cheap fix for older vehicles. Good Job again !!
If you don't have a grinder/have never used one before, can you use sandpaper and elbow grease to first remove the rust and then smooth out the fibreglass patch? Thanks in advance!
@@wheels.and.wrenches nothing wrong with being scared of a grinder, only a fool completely trusts his power tools. Precaution is a very nice thing to have. Grinders can be dangerous, that's why they include a guard to keep you safe in case the wheel breaks apart at 12k RPMs
I must say, this was very helpful, I will definitely do this to a Toyota Camry I have, the car has a really nice interior and low mileage for a 1999. But has a rust issue that is practically the same as the one you are showing. I really can't wait to do this.
As people we gotta do what we do to survive. its not about oh if you care about your vehicle kind of crap. if you have a crappy 1992 geo are u gonna make it look fantastic. Not unless the rest of the car is perfect. Guy is trying to show people how he does it and share but as soon as u post a video the haters flock!
Great Job. I remember back in the 80's doing this with chicken wire and bondo. Didn't even have a power sander so I used a piece of wood and sandpaper to grind it down. Since I bought the cars for usually less than $300 they weren't going to live long anyway :)
contrary to what the haters say this is a solid repair and will last ,glass filler is resistant to water and slush so before someone says weld a piece of metal,think again....would be easier if you used fiber glass tape and then the fiber glass filler,but anyway good job
your right about fiberglass being resistant, however all that bare rotted metal that was covered up underneath the repair will rust even quicker causing even bigger problems. oh well, if you dont care about your vehicle this is the way to do it.
In real terms it won't matter anyways. The rest of the car will be ready to trash by the time rust starts poking through the repair. There really is no answer to a rusty car in the Rustbelt. You are just prolonging the shortly inevitable anyways so you may as well use fiberglass to get by.
repairing a 67 Buick skylark that some hack "repaired" a couple years ago using this method. glad to see its just a quickie fix for a junker and not a classic. classics deserve better. good job though, good for that 200,000 mile 10 year old winter beater.
hans hoogendyk lol so some kit cars are not made of fibre glass no ? And 40 year old cars can be driven without an mot no matter how rotten this guys repair is not good on your 3 year old car but an old banger you want another year or 2 from fine in my opinion
Everybody laughs at this but I as you pros this one question. Just how long does a car / truck actually last once they really start rusting when you live in salt country? That's the brilliance of this type fix. What's the point of doing a very difficult expensive fix when the rest of the car is toast in 5 years? What he is doing if slathered with undercoat on the back and primed and painted will last 2 years before it begins showing any sign of rust. By year 3 it's actually noticeable and by 5 it's nasty again. This all assuming you never made any effort to touch up or do a quickly repair. That's enough though and look at how easy and cheap it was. Guys used to paint the lower area of the fenders and doors of that region with black undercoat as well to cover and hide the rust bloom. That was in the nasty rusty 70's when you could almost watch them rust. Just put a straight line with masking tape usually along the lower body curve line , mask above and spray with undercoat. Touch up was simple too. Don't laugh it worked very well for daily drivers.
You should repair the wheel well first, before you do the outer cosmetic repair. That rust starts because water gets behind the panel from the wheel well. It's easy to fix. You can fiberglass it or weld it, then plug it up with asphalt undercoat. Once the entire repair is complete shoot some oil inside the panel to stop the rust from coming back.
Genius! And I can weld myself, but in the description it says WITHOUT using a WELDER for GOD sakes. So if you're posting negative comments you're just a TROLL. Why? His description basically weeds OUT professional. This IS what YouTUBE is all about?! And that's people like this guy right here actually trying to help out those who may not be able to afford the BEST of's. I think he done a terrific job plain and simple. And for you "professionals" who didn't READ the description "fuck off" somewhere.
People need to chill...The cave and pave technique has been used for decades by DIYers. It's a low cost cosmetic approach. I don't use it in my vehicles but, i don't try to be the Boss of everyone and tell them what they can and can't do to their OWN autos. Some' NOT ALL Used car lots and taxi cab companies have done unusual repairs for years. Seems like everyone wants to choose the lowest bidder (our government also) on most projects, home repairs and purchases. So why can't a person do cosmetics on their own vehicles the way they want? Google ART CARS. Our Government requires car manufacturers to up the MPG stats. so, they use light steel, aluminum, plastic chrome and fiberglass as much as they can. It's not like they make or, want cars to last for decades! I have a rust-free 1930 Ford Model A that WAS designed for the owner to be able to keep it that way. Now, Commercial vehicles are a different breed that need more oversight in repairs.
If someone was really concerned about the strength and integrity of their vehicle,I most definitely would steer clear of this method. But if someone plans on getting a couple of more years out of a vehicle or work truck, this looks a hell of a lot better than rust. It can be said many different ways, the only true way to prevent further issues in the future is with metal. Bondo and fiberglass never stand the test of time when used on cars.
Thanks for the quick and easy tutorial. I just bought a '93 Bronco that has a little cancer over the rear wheel wells and I have been trying to figure out the easiest way to fix them. I am not trying to get it perfect to sell on a TV auction. I just want it to look decent within my capabilities. Once the rusted out portion is whole again, I will probably eve cover it with some fender flares so again it doesn't have to be perfect. Thanks again!
