Thanks Chris. Incidentally I work in exactly the same way, but my issue is how do you bush a flat cap, like those in Hermle barrels? Also how do you bush a barrel when the arbor is wide/thick and the spacer (bush) is thin?
What do you mean? I show you how to bush a cap in the video. If the bushing needs to be flush, you just face it off with your cutter. This procedure applies no matter how large the arbor is. If the arbor is very large, you may need to make a bushing or buy a special one.
@@Chrisclockrepair it does. Not a question of burrs. The bush has to be a mm smaller than the arbor. I've bushed many barrels and the first 1 I did, this happened, then I slightly reduced the diameter and it worked perfectly. The clock kept stopping and I couldn't understand why. Luckily it was a German movement so removing the barrel was easy. As I was winding it, I did feel it jamming a bit but it didn't occur to me as being an issue. Then it dawned on me what the problem was.
I have recently acquired a ridgeway grandfather clock. It has three melody options. It was running perfectly on the Westminster chime. I wanted to see what one of the other melodies sounds like, so I turned the switch, listened to it for an hour, decided I liked the Westminster better, and I switched it back. Now the Westminster melody/hammer sequence isn't correct. It is adding in extra strikes. Sounds awful. How can I fix this?
Make sure you adjust the melody when it is done chiming and before it “warns for the next chime” i would try moving the lever until it “locks in position. It may be slightly off. The lever should kind of set or lock in the positions as opposed to just using the words on the dial. If that doesn’t handle it. You will have to adjust the chiming sequence, which i can do a video on
Some hardware stores will sell brass tubing; however, i will also order from speedymetals.com. If your looking for bushings, i get those from timesavers.com
