Many years ago I was able to read specifications for a home being built in California in 1928. The architect spoke of the lathing and clearly stated that plastering was to commence within 48 hours of installation so it did not dry out prior to plaster. You see, the boards were green when installed, not dry. Dry wood affected the lime/sand ,mixture and the wood could warp when wet plaster was applied. The old school plaster took days to set and dry unlike modern hardwall mixes that set in a few hours. I guess the bonder your using seals the wood to prevent this issue occuring. I've seen chicken wire or expanded lath used where replastering over stripped lathing to ensure a good bond in very old repairs done decades ago.
Really good information, thanks for sharing. It all makes sense and is logical. I use the Plaster Weld to “paint” over the dusty lathe, otherwise it would not bond . There are many ways to get from here to there and understanding the basics is key.
This is awesome - also I had no figgin clue what nails to use - everythign I got was too big or too small it felt like - wasn't sure If I should just brad nail it in lol
I found that I could make new lathe by ripping a 2x4 on a table saw to about 3/8" width. HOWEVER, lathe is normally rough sawn so it has a really rough face (splinterville!) and ripped 2x4 is very smooth, you can take a rasp to rough it up if you really want to. I don't know if it makes that much difference since you are relying on the keys to keep the plaster on, and PVA bonder brushed onto the lathe is a good idea too. The 2x4 I think were spruce or pine. Whatever they sell at Home Depot.
I have done what you are doing, ripping strips of wood and using them as lathe. The plaster will key in between the gaps. That’s what will hold the plaster in place.
Thank you! So glad someone finally has a video on lath. What if I can't access the full space from one stud to the other, but I still need to fix lath that was removed by electrician?
@@craftsmanshomesllc8219 sorry about that. Meant to say I CAN'T access the full horizontal space between studs. Fixed my comment. I have one stud exposed. Moving to the right horizontally, there is a gap right after the stud where the electrician cut out lath. Continuing right, the lath picks up again, but there's plaster shortly after. I don't quite see the second stud to the right in order to replace the entire horizontal lath. Should I cut the plaster off till I see the next stud? Then replace that whole horizontal length? Or is there another fix like putting a vertical lath behind the exposed unsecured lath? I hope that makes sense. I'm new to this. Thank you.
@@gregorynuttall there is a simple solution that sheetrockers use. Take a piece of wood and put it in the hole. I sometimes have to put a screw in the wood to have something hold onto. Then secure the wood by putting a two screws through the plaster in the existing lathe and in your new wood Now you have a background foundation on which to build on Predrilling through the plaster to create a pilot hole may be necessary.
