After doing this job three times in 10 years on the same door, I finally ripped all that trim out and replaced it with vinyl. No more painting, no more rotting. Did the same thing for my garage surrounds, for the same reason, with the same result. Looks great, no more rot!
I was just wondering the the same thing. Why not replace with PVC. It cannot rot. Even pressure treated is more resistant to rot and water damage, but it’s still wood. The only downside I can see with using PVC is it’s not as durable as wood, it dents easily a door trim or window sill that shouldn’t be an issue, but a garage frame? In the winter months we get snow, and shoveling out around the doors could be an issue. How well has yours held up to life?
@@jamesmchugo9422 My door frame has been in for five years, my garage trim has been in for four. I did have to replace one piece of garage trim after I accidentally hit it with the auger on my snow blower. Other than that, it has been remarkable resilient.
I called three separate carpenters for estimates on repairing my door jamb (walk in cellar). Both sides were rotted on the outside in the jamb to a height of 24". They all said the entire unit must be replaced (including a door) and quoted me $1200.00-$1450.00. I wasn't born yesterday, I could tell they were thieves. I bought a cheap oscillating multitool for $39.00 at Harbor Freight tools. I took out the weather exposed side cutting it by the door stop. I purchased PVC trim at HD. I'm old so I took my time. Took me about 6 hours of fussing. Total cost was $175.00. I was told it looked better than what a carpenter could do. It will last forever being made of PVC Veranda. So it matched, I did all three sides and used top quality stainless screws. I know I went a bit overboard on framing the door. But it looks so good. I kept the heavy steel door and there was not one bit of rust on it. I originally installed the unit 37 years ago.
I live in Douglasville Georgia and had the same idea. PVC will not rot.. But did you create a ledge with the hinged part of the casing? I can't ever find the right replacement because 34 yrs ago it must have been different. Its sad they didn't think ahead.
Thanks for your video. I repaired a rotte door jam on our outbuilding using these instructions. Worked like a charm and looks professional! My husband was impressed. He said "now I don't have to hire someone." Hell, no, we can do it! Thanks to you!!!!
Because all men should just automatically know how to do this. You should be honored, recognized, and rewarded for your courage, bravery, and ambition. You precious, perfect, honorable, courageous independent woman. We should have a parade in your honor.
You did a pretty good job on this jamb repair.... I've seen jambs rot like this for 4 decades now...and you only had two choices to repair it, either tear out the whole frame, or repair it like you did.... For the past 15 years or so, the Jamb materials have gotten better, and this type of repair should no longer be a problem....If the proper frame is used in the correct location.... I am a Door Builder by trade,, Building both standard and custom Exterior entry units.... And Currently there are 3 types of standard Jamb materials that we use... Primed fingerjoint pine jambs, Frame saver pine jambs, and Solid composite jambs.... The primed pine jambs should Ideally be installed in locations not exposed to direct weather, like a Garage, a Porch, or location that has a large over hang...... Frame saver jambs are our main sellers, because they pretty much Eliminate the type of rot that you just fixed... these are pine jambs, but the lower 4 inches are made of a Composite material to eliminate water penetration at the Jamb/sill joint... The all Composite frames are the best,, due to the fact of never having to worry about any rot,, but they are pretty pricey.....SOooo... As the old saying goes.... "You get what you pay for"....
@Ol' Moe Thanks for writing in! Awesome to hear you're a door builder. My grandfather built custom doors and windows, and he was a top outboard motor mechanic as well. I've definitely seen the frame saver jambs you mention--they just haven't caught on in my area yet! Lately I've been doing this same repair with PVC, as the price has dropped so drastically in this last year or two. But pine, especially finger joint, is so prone to failure in these areas. I've never really been a fan of fingerjoint anywhere outside--high humidity levels alone seem to make the joints express. Inside the home the stuff seems far more stable. Where do you build doors? Thanks again for writing in!
@@TheHonestCarpenter I live and work near the coast of Myrtle Beach South Carolina...Here the building industry is growing steadily every year, with more and more people moving into the area.... I also, have never been a fan of Finger Joint material,, when used for any frame work, doors or windows...Mainly due to each glue joint being a place for trouble to start.... As far as the Frame Saver jambs,,, The cost only adds a few more dollars to the price of the unit...But will save you from sill rot later on down the road.... Thanks for replying back...Keep up the good work....
Actually, there is a third choice that I have used many times on cheap rental properties in particular. Cut out the rotted areas with a chisel. Then fill in the area with concrete mortar. Before I put in the concrete mortar I usually paint all of the exposed areas with a termite killer. This is a fast and easy repair requiring very few tools.
I might add, a speed square comes in really handy on this repair. Slide it to the location you want your plunge cut and use it as a guide for your oscillating tool.
Used your video to do this today. Was able to find a three foot section of jamb at Home Depot. So didn't have to cut my own groove. I sealed the ends as you suggested which is a good tip even for treated wood. Thanks for putting this together and supporting DIYers.
Damn. I would consider myself to know quite a bit about home repair and remodeling. But I always learn something (usually several things) from every one of your videos. Thanks for taking the time to share.
Good vid! Quick tip for you. The surgical line you speak of...if you want it to disapear, very slightly bevel the existing edge and new edge of the cut line with sand paper. Install your piece, and once adhesive sets up, use some automotive body filler over that area. Sand it flush once dry, and your ready for paint! You did a nice job, so might aswell take one more step to making it look invisible to the normal eye. The caulking shrinks back and you'll always see that cut line.
Watched this video a long time ago but remembered it. I just came back to say thank you and tell you this video helped me fix my own issue here on my house. Thank you!!!!
Ethan, I always use an old chisel or a sharpened flat trim bar for jobs like you're showing in this video. I find that either of these tools work better than a "demolition" screw driver.
I think a chisel is better than a screwdriver for removing sections of wood, too. No matter what tool you use, you have to be really careful with the wood removal process.
Wow. I just came across you because I had other questions to ask and I'm watching your videos and all of a sudden there was my problem video. Thank you so much you are a saint. I'm a 55 year old female who had wood rot on these door jambs and first I thought it was termites it was termites but I guess it's not mine is pretty deep. But I'm going to do everything that you said again I'm a 55 year old female and I'm going to dig in. Thank you so much for all of your kindness and support and help for people who need you
I watched the video w/interest as I've spent 30+ years in the field as a residential finish carpenter/cabinet maker. I'd be the first to admit, none of us "old guys" possess all the answers or angles, however I feel there are a few outstanding issues yet addressed here that are a disservice to a homeowner(s) & ourselves, as craftsman that need consideration. Generally speaking, door & window manufacturers have, for the last 30-40+ years, supplied the trades w/finger jointed jambs for interior and exterior jamb applications. Clear wood jambs can be specified at the time of ordering, however, at a significant up charge, which typically was the exception and not the rule in application. In this particular instance, I'm not certain that yellow pine, (chiefly the wood used in pressure treated wood products), but also becoming more and more prevelant w/ interior millwork, that this is the material of choice for a exterior jamb repair - even "dried". y.p. moves (expands/contracts) at a different rate than the spruce/pine/fir finger joint jamb material which is commonly used today. Additionally, y.p. grows differently, faster, has a different density than white pine/spruce, is not as stable (much more brittle) and doesn't perform/hold up as well when introduced or exposed to moisture long term. To the point, look closely at any exterior y.p. decking material - vertical or horizontal in application. Whether it's treated for moisture and exposure - after the intial 6-8, or even 10 month drying time, to receive and absorb an applied sealant - it still checks, along the length of each board. That's why Trex decking & similiar products have surged as a go-to decking material. My experience early on is that in repair work, y.p., especially p.t., checks (cracks) similiarly along the length of the board over time in exterior applications. Whether you're using "dry treated" boards before priming/painting or not - y.p. inherently checks, in time, no matter how you treat it after installation ...take it to the bank...it just does. There's a reason you don't typically find finger jointed y.p. door jambs - treated or untreated wood, used on EXTERIOR applications, w/entry doors. Additionally, 2" finish nails, or even 3" nails for that matter will not keep a y.p. board flat - the board WILL MOVE, curl, with the grain and, eventually, resists being fixed/nailed, by checking (cracking) along grain lines. It must & will relieve inherent stresses within the board, it's the nature of y.p. This allows moisture in, which can lead to paint failure & eventually, decay. I've replaced more than a few of these y.p. "patch boards" through the years on doors AND windows - they will move and decay - even p.t. boards - more so than the regular pine f.j. board... they just do. Lastly, the repair does look cosmetically pleasing initially, but the sill is left unsecured to the bottom of the jamb & it will move out of place over time - foot traffic, constant opening/closing of the door, house movement - and the structure does move/settle over time, even minimally; caulking will not remedy the joint long term, causing potentially more damage beneath the sill and framing beyond the jamb. I know, as I've demo'd plenty of these type repairs, beyond the door unit itself. They do not hold up season after season and with foot traffic. They just don't... look, I understand the scope and intended purpose here - what's warrented in this instance; the economics, the time and labor ect.... but, if you want repeat business, and that's what this is about - business, then do it right, or don't do it - for the sake of sparing someone the heartburn of another re-do... I generally try and steer the homeowner towards total jamb replacement w/a clear wood (non-finger joint wood) repair, even utilizing those fiberglass bottom jambs & then prime the stuffing out of ALL sides/ends thoroughly & (2) top coats of quality exterior paint. I reconnect the rabbet/joint milled at the bottom of the jamb (made in the field) to the side or edge of the sill for a solid connection w/screws & apply a bead of caulk where the sill meets the shoulder of the rabbet, allowing a 1/8" gap between the top of the sill and the underside of the bottom of the jamb cut, to allow water to flow away. I have yet to have a call back due to a joint failure or water issue that is caused by failing paint/caulking at this reconnection. Lots of words, yes... but that TV commercial & the Midas man wasn't whistling Dixie when he told the customer, " you can pay me now - or pay me later." I'd rather walk away from work, having to forego income - than "paying a customer" to get off of a job, because my "repair" wouldn't remedy their issue. And if you don't quite understand how YOU end up paying a customer to get off a job - continue with the "practical patch work"... one day it'll come to you & outa-yo-back-pocket...
Pressure treated is not what I would have used. Something kiln dried and a harder pine like Douglas Fir. Great job on the instruction. I have replaced many rotten areas of door jams and not one has been a problem. An inexpensive repair can turn dreadful and cost more when you aren't willing to use better materials to begin with. Keep up the great videos!
I did the same except backed the original and new both with shims. Yup, a door jam kit is about $50.00, but then, inside outside trim paint, etc. It all adds up! Labor and Time I have money we'll, I'm out of my pay grade if I gab a beer and couch it off😂😂. You are so right, though. I'll say a porch cover-overhang for doors will save your wood.
Nicely done! When purchasing a new door upgrade your jamb (Door frame) to composite bottom or complete composite jamb. Generally the first place water damage is found on an exterior door is at the bottom of the jamb as this video shows. A composite bottom jamb has the bottom 6-8 inches of the jamb and brickmould made from a composite material which won't rot. Or go with a complete composite jamb. Its a great investment for a little amount. Hmmm, I sound like a door salesman or something...LOL
Rather than using a level cut as you did, I use a scarf cut sloping down to the outside so it will shed water. Silicone is not paintable so I use elastomeric caulk (Lexel, e.g.) at the bottom.
That makes a lot of sense! I fear that I would find making two slanted cuts that match more tricky than it's worth, but I might be willing to give it a shot on my next repair.
@@victorquesada7530 if the guide block is at the angle you can run the oscillating blade along the block but flat against the downward bevel. You can make the replacement piece, just keeping the same angle on the table saw or mitre saw that you made the guide block with.
Thanks for posting this great video. My parent's house needs this kind of repair, now I know what I need to do and how to do it. The only thing that I would do in your case is not use the shims but use long strips of would, the thickness needed and put them behind on each side of the new board in order to have an even backing. This video was very informative. Thanks again.
Often wondered if a repair like this could be done. Great how to video, and really explained it well. I have a garage side door with both sides doing the same thing. This is better than having to replace the whole door.
I have three doors that need these repairs. I was planning on pulling the whole door frames/brick molds. Thanks. This type repair will probably last the rest of my life.
very nice! subscribed...as a retired painter/handyman, i like to prime both side of repair wood before it is pinned in. in my day i didn't have those oscillating tools--what an improvement over the old days. i probably would have planed a thicker repair piece to avoid the shims, but this is quicker and a good idea. also, i like dynaflex for the caulking and anything else i can use it for!
Just wanted to say well done. A number of comments (including by me) are helpful additions but I know from experience that this repair just as you did it is very good and will last. Take the comments as hopefully helpful additions but not as criticism or just being negative. I’m a contractor and find your channel very helpful. Subscribed.
Whenever I replace any vertical wood trim I put a 15° bevel aka weather cut instead of making a straight cut. To do this using the same tool you used just cut a 15°bevel on a scrap piece of wood same width as the piece you're removing and tack it to the piece you're cutting off. Short point on the face, using this as a guide for your saw. It will make the joint disappear use a small amount of caulk in the joint. Also leave an 1/8" gap at the bottom of the threshold to allow caulk to adhere to the piece you're installing. I use a nail puller to put upward pressure on the piece while nailing to get the joint tight. Sorry about the long comment but I'm very detailed when making exterior repairs. Hope you give this method a try.
Xtreme200302003 I don’t mind the long comment, I appreciate you writing in. Question though: is a weather cut necessary for this application? If underside of cut above is sealed, and top of new piece is sealed (something I didn’t do a good job of showing in this vid, but have put in other vids), what do you think the odds are of getting water penetration on a vertical jamb? Especially with surface caulk and paint to follow. I like the 1/8” short trick though! I tend to use my 5-in-1 to scoot under and lift a piece in similar situations. Let me know what you think...
@@TheHonestCarpenter The short answer is , just try it and see for yourself. I think the joint turns out better. Is it absolutely necessary....no. It is just what I was taught to do when installing new exterior trim. You do pay attention to detail and turn out good work, I'd hire ya in a heartbeat.
Xtreme200302003 Thanks buddy! I appreciate the advice and support. I’ll give the block guide a try on my next go round. I’m always up for learning new methods 🙂
Thanks for the info. Recently bought a house that has some rot by the back door I'm looking to fix soon. Haven't done this kind of work before so it's helpful to see how it's done.
Great job! I love this fix. I would probably tear the whole thing out just to make sure nothing else is rotten. I had this same type of situation and tore out the old door and frame to find the subfloor was also rotten.
Instead of caulking for replacement pieces I'll take real fine sawdust & mix with wood glue to fill in joined gap. When it dries sand smooth & paint. Sometimes it makes replacement joint almost impossible to detect. Great video!!
All these “experts” and “perfectionists” should have their own YT channel. I’d bet if you visited their homes, they wouldn’t be so perfect. Thank you for the video.
So wish I would have seen this sooner. I pretty much did what you did. But I didn’t use the level tool you did to make sure i had a straight line, so I had to mess with the angle in my cuts to get it to fit. Glad that I at least did most of what you recommended.
the multi tool is a really nice tool to have, it does wonders. It is one of the best tools for a great job, to remove a rotten door jam thanks for showing us a great vidio.
Ethan, you saved me five to $800 in fixing a rotten door jam at my house. I was able to get a broken door jam combination from Home Depot that they couldn’t sell for $15. That’s all the materials I spent.Thanks for the great tutorial and your videos. I wish I could buy you a couple of beers!
For those who may have a hard time cutting a straight line. You can take a scrap piece of wood with a straight edge and screw it below your line. This will give you something to rest your tool on. It won’t just help with a level line but keep your pitch too. With this repair he’s already ripping with a table saw. No harm in ripping down a scrap piece of 2x6 etc and avoid the shims. He’s doing a cheap repair for those who can’t afford a whole door. Use what materials you have. Cut your height and angle and width as he showed. Insert the 2x6, scribe a line for your depth and run through a table saw.
Semper Fi , I agree. Some above complained about the method. Replace the whole board, pull the door etc. no need for that unless the rot made it into the framing. People don’t always know what’s involved in replacing a whole door and the expense.
This is why I have a Larson heavy duty storm door. With the lock on the storm door it is additional protection for you as you answer your door. If someone wanting to rush in they have to deal with heavy duty storm door while you close your main door and lock it.
I did this same repair two days ago. I hadn't looked at any videos and today found this one. I did the same thing he did with a couple of differences. I cut the old wood out with my oscillating tool. I used a chisel instead of a screwdriver (a screwdriver, really?). I didn't glue the board in place since in a number of years that new piece may rot again and need to be taken out. I do like the idea of using the oscillating tool to create a space away from the concrete. I did think about that but haven't done it. I'll do it tomorrow. Over all really good video.
I did a whole video on the big screwdriver Anthony. I’ll take 3” extra leverage any day. Goes through pine easier than a chisel because the tip is so narrow. One of the first things ever taught to me on a construction site.
After more than 45 years as a craftsman in the restoration field, I recommend Abatron epoxy injection and epoxy consolidant for this and forget the dutchman scab.
Great video and great workmanship. Alternative is available though... there is a product by Abatron called LiquidWood and WoodEpox that I just used that worked well. You dig out the dry rotted wood and vacuum what’s left. Then you mix the liquidwood and brush on several times until absorbed. You then use WoodEpox and mold that into place while the liquidwood is still wet. Then you sand a bit until it matches surrounding piece and you are done. Once cured the product can be sanded, painted, or stained. Many historic restorations are done with this stuff. Either method is good. I am not a fan of lazy manufacturers that create the problem in the first place by using pine or melamine which deteriorates rapidly when water comes into the picture. Have a great week!
@Mountain Creek Good tip! I haven't used Liquid Wood yet specifically, but I've tried a couple other comparable products and had some success. For small patch, I think it can be a good route for DIYers who might not have as much saw experience. Thanks for writing in!
That can be like a dentist who didn't drill out all tooth rot and then put a filling in. You cannot always see ALL the rot, and if you miss ANY, even a speck, it keeps spreading and rotting. I see painters doing that type of repair all the time on jambs and windows, usually fails. Also the expansion and contraction will be different on both materials, causing a crack, then water, then rot/failure. Don't get me started on fillers for rot.
Don't use painters caulk to seal water out. If it says easy water cleanup it's not for outdoors where I come from. Also, a little pre priming or azek/PVC boards adds life. We always use composite jambs or doors with jamb savers here on the Oregon coast anymore, wood ones last about 2 years
English Vietnamese With Mimi is you are Vietnamese you should be more respectful of family. Please rethink before saying hurtful things especially during this time.
Iv done this repair many times and not always because of rot actually. My leading reason of this repair is actually storm door damage. I do it slightly different with the same goal, just different approach. I continue the "control cut" as you call it right down the interior stop. Once new jamb fits flush with the existing jamb, I run a pencil line along the back of my patch " representing the weather stripping" and run a rip. It will take two passes to open the kerf correctly. Most of the time it is approximately 5/32 or a blade and a half. Too tight and the stripping the never fit into loose and it will not stay in place. Then to finish everything off I've always used epoxy wood filler so I can sand Prime and paint within an hour
My saw blades hate PVC. I don’t like it either. There is a soda ash composite that can be submerged if you’re after something esoteric with limited availability and application...
@@TheHonestCarpenter cost of material shouldn't contribute to choice it's charged to customer anyway. ALWAYS use best materials for ALL work & not cutting corners sacrificing durability of repair
Great video, still contains valuable information. I was getting ready to replace my kitchen storm door when I removed my old one and noticed the rotten wood. Perfection video to saved me some valuable time and expense. Added a minor change, and 😉used Foam Insulation in the cavity, this should eliminate any future moisture issues. Used your last trick chalking the base of both sides of the jamb. Tomorrow just install my new storm door. Thanks again.
I design doors and windows for a living and the repair you did will work for a while. The real problem is that unless you buy a fiberglass or other composite door with a composite threshold the jamb stock will wick water again. Under the actual threshold is probably less than a number 2 pine grade pine board. What you kept calling the jamb is actually the "stop" the rest that you dug out is the actual jamb. When installing a new door even with a composite jamb, always use a rubber membrane on the floor that is sticky on the down side to prevent water wicking. It's good to run that up the rough opening about 6 inches and run it past the door and around the corner like flashing. The other beating doors take is no storm door. Every door should be covered by a storm door. The other issue that door jamb had was likely water splashing on it. If your door faces south or west get a venting storm door, otherwise the door can reach 400 degrees. I've seen the plastic surrounds that hold glass in them melt. Home Depot sells the jamb stock with the stop attached so you can cut all the way through to the rough opening and not have to pick out the jamb in pieces. Not trying to dog your work, but make your life easier in the future.
Great job. I would like to recommend that you do something else in addition to adding the cut at the bottom to cause it to clear and stay dry off the concrete at the ground level. I would also prime both the bottom edge as well as the entire backside so that it is further protected and not likely to soak up water (like raw wood would). Thanks and keep em coming!!
I don’t like encapsulating wood with barrier. If just a pinhole allows water inside it will rot out more quickly because oxygen is low and no way to dry. Leave inside surface alone and provide downward angled weep holes. Not as aesthetically pleasing but who cares
Epoxy injection and consolidation are much easier and will not rot again (assuming you took care of original water source--otherwise the wood will rot away from the epoxy next time)
Awesome! Thank you! It's basically advanced LEGOs and understanding materials and building science. Knowing how to use a multi-tool and table saw helps!
To make it easier to cut a straight line, tack a guide strip to the lower part of the board. Let the multi-use tool blade rest on the guide strip while cutting. Even someone like me who's hands shake quite a bit can make a straight cut this way.
That's helpful as well! I was trying to hang cabinets the other day, and found the tip of putting a strip of straight 2x4 level as a shelf to make the cabinets easier to hold and easier to get level.
In addition it can be good to have the guide block be beveled so that it’s at say a 20:degree angle (ripped on a table saw or cut on a mitre saw). When you run the saw along tip it to the angled piece so the remaining jamb is angled down and the piece you put in is at the same angle also cut at the same angle on your table saw or mitre saw. That way it is flashed downward allowing water to be less likely ever to infiltrate the joint. Not a huge big deal but added protection.
You know you have this tool call an oscillating tool that can cut vertically just as easily as horizontally. You could literally have two cuts and take it out in three pieces. I’d also replace with with pvc vinyl board, and the shim can just be glued to new jam. No need to cut flashing.
you should have used hardy plank. It will never rot again!!! I have done this on several door and it works much better than wood replacement. I live in Houston where hot , humid and rotting are a way of life.
They also sell pre hung units with a jamb saver this comes with a composite material finger joined to the bottom of each leg. That’s all I order for clients or full composite
@gregwolters2 That’s a good point. A lot more milling companies are starting to add composite bottoms, so you can even get single side jambs with the 5 degree cut in place if you look around 🙂
My clients get jamb savers, I don’t give them an option, it’s something like $20 more. I used to do those jamb repairs and discovered that replacing the entire jamb side is faster and the finished product looks better. My local Millwork shop sells the jamb legs milled or unmilled for the hinges.
I have exactly this problem on a front porch door. I was wondering if this was possible. Apparently, it is! Thank you for the help. Now I can get this nuisance fixed and in short order, too.
@@rbrtck He showed in the video he shoots silicone underneath to prevent moisture from getting there. He showed it on the original piece and not the new one. You can't believe he would seal the bottom on the old wood and not do the same to the new piece he just replaced.
This seems to be more geared toward professionals to get the job done faster or for major damage worse than what was shown. An average person doing this at their home I would think would be to use a paint able epoxy after cleaning out the rotted ends using a dremel or die grinder. This Old House has a good tutorial on the other method, but this always seems to be the most popular method found online.
If it’s a 4 9/16” jamb, Lowe’s sells treated prefabricated jamb legs that you can install (just cut to size) that has the weatherstripping groove. Just make sure to cut below the bottom hinge so you don’t have to mortise it out.
Azak is the way to go on repairs like this. after being self employed since 1978 and in the trades slightly longer I do understand that anybody can trash talk anybody and talk their work down. You did a decent repair here. If I was going to use any type of wood for the repair I would have at least sealed the base of it with silicone. I have also drilled very small holes in the aluminum threshold under that piece to allow water to get away from it if need be. But, with all that being said. Azak is the way to go on a repair like this.
@MasterHustler Thank you! You can totally use the oscillating tool for the vertical cut as well, you just want to remember to space it back a half-inch from the edge so you can create the rabbet overlap. I typically break pieces out like this just to save on blade life a little--those blades can get pricey!
Another easy way to buy time and cure the asthetic is to purchase some inexpensive aluminum panels (ex. 4 x 5 inches). These can either be prepainted or bare ( which can be primed before installation). Form each piece of aluminum so that will completely cover the area on each side (including the corner edge) and apply it with construction adhesive, making sure it extends an inch or more above the affected area. Run a bead of exterior caulk at the base to complete. Then paint as needed to match the existing trim. I bought two pieces of unfinished aluminum sheet for 39 cents apiece at my local hardware store. Note: I did completely replace the brickmold.
needed to see this thank you. though im scared mine might have a little more damage then in your video. though as soon as i get mine fixed im getting me a storm door to further protect it.
Nice! Optionally you can by a single vertical piece of the door jamb as opposed to an entire 3 piece set and then cut your section from that.. It includes the rabbit cut for weatherstrip, even though it may seem wasteful, its the correct width and thickness plus the weatherstrip cut so it makes it a bit simpler in that respect.
"I've never seen this part of a jamb rot"...I want to invite you to my home because that exact portion rotted and eventually broke off 1 month after I purchased my house. I am ready to repair it now. Thanks!
Expansion and contraction is different in PVC compared to timber which would lead to caulk and paint cracking along the joints where it meets the timber....which will allow rain water to enter and rot the remaining timber.
If you happen to have a nice front door, say Antique of expensive fiberglass, and the door latch or deadbolt is loose because the screws have stripped out the insides, there is a new door hardware I have seen here on YT called ReSecure Latch. It replaces that ugly metal sleeve that changes the look of your door and the wasted time on glue sticks or putty. I have used a few in my Apartment Maintenance career. It sits inside the door alongside the door latch. Super convenient and permanent fix.
On door jam cutting I will use a scrap piece of lumber cut square. tacit to the piece being removed. The lumber now is my guide so the cut line is square and true. Now fitting in the new jam piece is a breeze. Also can do angle cuts and beveled cuts easily.
I just cut out the rotted part and fill with hard rock. Sand to match wood and paint with quality paint and caulk. Never have had a call back and takes less then hour. Customers are happy and it saves them money since it’s faster.
The customers are happy at the moment because it might appear "done," but after a full heat and wetting cycle or two, they call someone else because the rock hard didn't move when all the wood around it did and they want to find someone who will really do it right and not just some patch job. just saying.
Lots of comments about sealing the end grain at the bottom. I use paro wax and a heat gun. The wax melts into the end grain and seals it better than anything else I've found. Great to use on end grain on deck boards too.
@Dave Freeman That’s a good idea. A lot of wooden porch columns these days are coming with wax sealed bottoms. I guess if it works for toilets it can work just about anywhere! 😁
Had a similar problem and used a similar method. A lot of rot in behind that I couldn’t totally correct. Used a lot of wood hardened and Great Stuff. So far so good.
If you had a router you could easily half lap a joint on the jamb. That way you have a firm top fix and can just nail the bottom with your packing pieces the same as you did. Just a different way!.
Just a suggestion. Never use shims that are cross grain cut. These will split if you hail through them. Any shim should be cut with the grain of the wood.
Hey Charlie, thanks for writing in. I agree, I use linear grain shins in any situation where they remain unadherred, otherwise you hear them just clatter down into the jamb cavity when they break. But in this app, they’re swathed in so much adhesive, they’re really just spacers for a day until glue sets up
I'm curious: in your deconstruction you used a screwdriver to pry it out. Wouldn't a basic flatbar and chisel work better for a more controlled deconstruct? This would also ensure you don't mar surrounding surfaces as much.
Never do it this way. The joint just creates another water entry problem through capillary action. As a home inspector I always recommend replacing the whole side jamb.
That’s what I used on half of mine. I couldn’t on the 2nd piece though, as the PVC was too thick. So i had to buy poplar that was the only thing that was the right thickness I needed. But I used that water proof product at Lowe’s (the one they do infomercials on... Flex Seal). and just painted it on. I’ll monitor it, but I feel pretty good that I won’t be dealing with the issues again.
@@TheHonestCarpenter man your video was perfect. I cut out the one side like you with the screwdriver. However the other side I found came out so much easier using the multi tool. Cut the dado on the table saw like you suggested. Very happy with the outcome. Thank you sir
I would have caulked the bottom before installing the piece, as extra protection for the plate and sill. Also, spackle the cut line and sand it.? I never use caulk because it shrinks and shows the crack. Same for filling nail holes...
Gary Chandler no worries. The painter on my current job uses the same term for wood filler. Just clarifying for other folks. I agree with the situation of caulk shrinking.
