Sorry everyone I have been away for awhile. Looks like we have a lot of great feedback and information in the comments so make sure to take a look at that if you are experiencing these weird electrical issues! As for the repair on my moms Yukon, we still have not experienced any of the crazy problems that we had before.
Man same issue on my 2016 escalade. Wouldn't start at times even though all my instrument panel lights comes on. So I thought it's the starter. Then I figured since it eventually starts but dies when coming to a stop that's not a starter issues. So this ground cable seems hella promising. 🙏🏿 The cable fixes this issue!!
I figured the least I can do is say thank you. It has been 2 weeks since I replaced it and no more issues. You’ve save me a lot of money an time. Again thank you!
I just cleaned up and tightened the small negative cable on frame behind front passenger wheel well and fixed the weird issues on my 2015. That ring with plug measures amp draw for computer processing. Very rarely is the actual cable bad.
Thanks for posting the video, I recently took my 2014 Silverado to the dealer because similar problems, they quoted me $800 to replace the battery cables, so I told them that was kind of high for replacing battery cables so I would do it myself. Soooo, if that is the going rate, you saved your mom $710 and she should be so happy to have a son like you taking care of her! BTW, all my cables are pristine, so I suspect my problem is the bad grounding point inside under the speaker in the dash. I am going to hook up my volt meter and see if I can sneak up on the exact cause (nothing like a smoking gun to give you peace of mind) by checking for voltage changes across things (when I move the steering wheel) on connections (i.e. grounds) where there should not be any voltage. I'll connect the ground on the meter to the ground of the battery through a long wire, then probe around to see if the voltage at those ground points rises when I move the steering wheel. Anything more than .3 to .5 volts DC is bad, since all grounds should be very close to zero volts all over the vehicle.
Wow thanks for this info! Very helpful information for any of us looking to fix this issue. Diagnosing it properly using the steps you suggested would definitely be the way to go as opposed to throwing parts at it (like I did..but got lucky haha). Hope you get to the bottom of your issue, good luck!
I am not a mechanic or knowledge of engines. How do you find your grounds in a 2016 Colorado truck, my truck has some issues with not cranking i double check most of the basic things everything seem good including the fuse but when i play with the negative cable on this truck, i wiggle it the wire because they are hard to reach them. I suspect it has to be this cable or the ground because it now cranks every time. cross my fingers! Leet me know of a website or a link to find my ground connectors in this Colorado Sir. Thanks
Thanks for sharing this video man! I have been chasing this issue looking at different grounds around the truck and just living with this problem way to long! I’m going to try this out and I’ll keep updating as time goes on as well! I got a 2016 Silverado Lt!
Glad I could help! I was pretty skeptical over changing this wire out because I thought how could a ground wire go bad? But looks like it should’ve been the first thing I did because it worked. Good luck with your truck 🙌
@@sethmartin9498 Im having the same problem with my 2015 Silverado. Did you happen to try this yet? some hard slow turn it will preety much shut off and stablitrac pops up. Sometimes acts dead after that. Other weird stuff with the radio and inside lights also tranny weird randomly.
Very helpful. I did the same fix on the post grounds on each side under corner of windshield. Had issue on passenger side cleaned it drove fine for a week and same issues came back. Losing all electrical while driving but truck continues running fine. I think I am at the point where I change the ground wire to battery… if that doesn’t take care of it probably move on to BCM.. Thanks for video. I have 2017 Silverado so should be the same.
@@rangeday2923 well… took it to dealership had BCM replaced had same issue… however they did find the motor was not grounded… it’s been a couple months truck is fixed,,,
Hi. Thanks for the video. I am having issues with power steering. It gets locked for 1-2 seconds with warning service power steering. Really looks like a loose connection. I have Yukon xl Denali 2016. I’ll try this today. Hope it solves the problem. Went for regular oil and filters change at ACDELCO today and described the problem to them. They said they don’t work on any electronic issues as they don’t have any good electrician. They asked me to go any other local workshop. The dealer also doesn’t accept my car because it is USA specs and not GGC specs (middle east).
So was it cleaning all grounds and replacing the negative cable that fixed it for you? I’m having similar issues and got it back working temporarily by jiggling the negative but need an actual fix
Hello, I too am part of this community, 2018 Silverado @ 117k miles, after market leveling kit and 33x12.5r20 tires. Had this same issue & can confirm from a Chevy Auto Tech, that this was this issue for me. Negative cable to the battery and battery fuse box, that goes on top of the battery.
Hello, did your issue ever come back. I just installed a leveling kit and now I am experiencing weird electrical issues. Stabilitrak message, radio resets, driver side window message and total loss of electrical power like the battery is disconnected. Never had any problems before until I got the leveling kit installed.
I "was" having intermittent electrical power loss while driving. The symptoms were as follows - while driving i would randomly have a 1 second loss of power leading to have either stabilitrak, 4wd, or random downshift and all electrical loss for a fraction of a second. It would happen so quick that it would not leave a check engine light. I checked my grounds in the dash near the speakers, and they are good. I then moved to the external grounds. I cleaned all the connection points up with sandpaper and wd40. after doing that, the issues t away for 1 week, then came back. So i did a bunch of research and came to the conclusion that my negative battery cable (the one your showing in the video) becomes faulty quick. So i replaced it. Finally it seemed my problems were resolved. Fast forward 3 weeks later, and the issues are back. I am at a loss for words on this issue. I have a new positive battery cable yet to be installed. Im planning to replace the junction block on top the battery and the ground strap as well. My issues all started after changing my battery / and starter.
Last couple weeks that stablink would pop on amd hill assist Deactivate. Then just recently, I would go to start the truck. It woukd click, like a low battery. The truck would start. I went and bought a new battery. Now I get nights on the dashboard, no clicks, nothing when I insert the key and try to start. But when i turn the key to off position my front left headlight turns on then off.
@Justin Meyer that's an odd situation. What i would do first is try to reset the memory (leave the battery disconnected for 30 mins). If issues stay, next check and clean the grounds. The main negative cable run from the battery to the passenger wheel well and engine block (bottom of engine near starter). After that see if it improves. If not, check the ground on the driver side (right under driver seat underneath truck). If no improvements, look and clean connections at the ground strap (firewall to the engine, it's a braided ground). If that doesnt improve, check the grounds at the dashboard speakers (there are a few videos on this). If no improvments, time to start spending some money. I would start with replacing the main ground cable, they are about $100, but they are known to fail prematurely. If that doesnt work, look at the fuse distribution box about $140 (this is on the top of battery). This distributes power to many electronics. My issue was the starter heat sheild, it got loose and was shorting out my power to my modules. Check out the link below, it pretty much covers everything i mentioned with pictures and real descriptions. www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10168185-9999.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwju0IPdnez3AhWIT98KHcGsCOoQFnoECA0QAQ&usg=AOvVaw3HuR7mqEKFKF2iqohyHk3b
@@zacharymervich1169 . I appreciate the response and video. This just hapoed about 48 hours ago so in in the early stages. I did immediately order that distribution fuse on top of the battery. The place I bought the battery from, told me to be very careful changing the battery because a arc will either ruin that distribution fuse, or wires, relays, fuses. What he did not sat was to disconnect the negative first, then positive. Thrn reinstall positive first then negative. I will let you know what happens after I get ot figured put. Thanks again
I have a 2011 Sierra and yea when I say funky issues I mean funky, truck almost basically turn off and back on while driving. I’m replacing the wiring today but was just curious
@Zachary Mervich . Problem solved. I have a 2016 Silverado 1500 5.3 recently had issues with nav screen glitches, stablelink messages, and jusy a few delayed signals starting my truck. "Meaning turn the key hear starter engage, dash lights up, but no crank for about a blink." That immediately led into a dead battery. Within 3 days. Bought a new battery and had no power what so ever except when I turned the ignition to the off position. I would get my driver side head ti turn on and my interior lights. Combed all the fuses checked for power, checked grounds, and still nothing. So I made the call that I should have made right away. Called the old man. Not even a two sips from the beer he had it diagn osed and a temporary trouble shoot in case I needed my truck until the part came in. If I can figure out how to get pictures on here I will, but what happend is when replacing the battery. I arced the distribution fuse on top of the battery. And it popped the circuit where my 2 Negs connect to the 175v. You can take a wire and connect the main plate, to the bolt where the wires go and it will create the circuit again. What we did is just connect the 2 negs to the 125v breaker and the truck runs like new. The distribution fuse box for my 2016 does not come standard with a mega fuse, and the fuse it self cost around 80 dollars from gm, and is a week plus out. So I don't suggest running your alternator or starter off the 125v connector to long, but it's there if your in a bind. That battery box is on all trucks 2015 to current. It is said to keep those clean because it will cause power issues which cause messages to pop up and other things to go funky. One more thing. It was said to me, that when changing the modern day batteries. Disconnect the Negtive wire on the battery first then the positive, then when reinstalling, place the positive on first then the negative.
Hey, exactly same issue you described with my 2016 4x4 Silverado and the dealer quoted my $900 to replace the cables. Is it a similar set up as in your video to replace? I feel like my acts up after going through the car wash, but definitely locks up when making a turn. Recently lost power on the highway which was scary.
I had exactly same problem with tahoe 2015, i tryed tightening the nuts and compress the ends of the cables before two years, and that solved the problem partially, untill today it shows back, so i guess i have to change the ground cables, my question is, does that solves the problem? Did it show up again, since ur video was from last year.
I have a 2016 Escalade and the same thing did that when I was driving I put the 2 front window up at the same time and my dashboard and radio turn off then came back up and check the black cable on the battery and it was really lose you think if I just tighten it really good it would fix this problem?
How the heck do you get to the bolt by the starter?!?! I can’t get to it from under the starter and I removed the fender and it’s super far to get to, even with an extension
This is a great video but do you have any advice on how to remove the larger cable by the starter on a 4x4? Yours is quite a bit easier to get to but mine looks much more difficult with the xfer case in the way..
Bro I’m having the same issue 2016 Chevy Tahoe. I turned into my drive way and truck started acting exactly how you explained it. It’s currently at the Chevy dealer and they’re talking about gutting my whole inside
Yup they’re probably gonna look at those grounds on the dash but definitely have them change the battery negative cable because out of every fix I tried, this actually fixed it
Hey Buddy. Same issues here. I ordered a new fuse box fir the top of my battery. I have not received it yet, but I am having the same issues after a battery replacement l. They say that fuse can arc and no longer allow the grounds to function. Did you get your issue figured out?
Did your speedometer and odometer start just going up and down too? Also would your lights just randomly go in and out of high beam? Going to take a look at the ground connections tomorrow
We just bought a 2018 GMC Yukon XL and occasionally it won’t start. No instrument lights or interior or exterior lights will come on and the key fob won’t do anything. I disconnect the negative cable to the battery and wait about a minute to reconnect it, then everything works again. We are not sure why we are having this issue. Anyone have any ideas?
Hey, I am having this issue on my 2015 Yukon XL Denali, when I go to buy the part from orileys, it’s saying it won’t fit my car. Is it still universal for my car even though it says it won’t fit?
This particular suv is a 2015 Gmc Yukon so I do not see how it would be different. Best thing to do would be to inspect your current cable and make sure it looks similar to the one I posted. I’m pretty sure it should be the same tho. Worst case scenario just return it if doesn’t look right
Good afternoon great detailed explanation. Just out of curiosity how is the truck doing since the repair. Looks like it’s been about a year. My truck is giving me the same Issue and im about to attempt this repair hopefully it’s the root cause.
You sound like you know what you are talking about. I should bring my 2016 Colorado 2.5 IL to you and help me with it I have the same issues with not cranking, at first it hesitate to crank and then try the 2nd time it crank, later on the day it would not crank. I had original brought to the dealer and they Service man swears they did a the voltage meter check, and nothing wrong with the cable, took it home and later it didn't want to crank, now they say its the negative cable due to corrosion stuck inside from the negative cable to the battery. then said it might be the positive cable, at this point we are guessing and its cost me lots of money. I m disable but I will not give up until I find the issue.
I just replaced this cable and for some reason my battery is draining. Everything worked well for a couple days then the battery is dead. Got the battery checked and nothing is wrong with it.
I didn’t have anything blocking my engine ground bolt. If you’re referring to the trans oil dip stick couldn’t you just remove the bolt that holds the tube and then pull it out?
Not really sure what he moved, or took out, but that bolt next to the starter is not that fucking easy to see. You need to make people aware of this. It's a bitch to get to and take off unless you have other things disconnected. This comment is for everybody who thinks it's going to be as easy as what he just showed you.
