I'm a very skilled carpenter both rough and fine finish and electrician and as such I can really appreciate very good work when I see it. Your work is extremely neat, clean lines and so functional and precise and I take my hat off to you. BRAVO Chef!
Very helpful also it could be possible to do 3 valves then merge the station pipes together I’ve done it before at my house so that it’ll be one valve less to maintain overtime. Just another thought I wanted to share too. You are very helpful and a lifesaver thank you very much 😁👍👍👍 I always love watching your videos
Hi John. Yes I have used a doubler. It's a good way to solve the problem of a bad wire to sprinkler valves without the expense of trenching in a new timer wire. Basically the doubler will run 2 valves from one good timer wire. For the 2nd part of your question you do get friction loss through bends in zone lines. The fewer angles the better.
Unfortunately Rain Bird has discontinued the 100DVFUU valve which by the way was my favorite valve. You can still get the 100DVF valve with threaded or slip connections.
My only experience with jar top valves is with Hunter valves. The valves I worked on were leaking where the top half of the valve connects to the bottom half of the valve with a collar you tighten. In my case the collars wouldn't tighten enough to seal off the valves. When I bought new valves and replaced the top half parts & the collars the valves sealed off. I think it's because where I live there are below freezing temps & over time that affects the collars.
Automatic drains = automatic fail points. In all these videos, i never see pea stone used under the valves. While you dont have to do it, it gives a nice bed if you ever need to bleed the valve or do work by the valves. It just looks so clean.
Kerry, This is yet another great video in your series! Very informative, well explained and demonstrated! This piping looks great also! Pity it has to be covered up! Have you done a video on connecting into the main or one of the spicket lines and also a video on the installation of the back-flow restrictor required by so many municipalities? If so could you provide links in your reply? Thank you!!
I have 2 videos on backflow preventers, here are the links: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cOPUaMQezUw.html, and ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-C14OsLQQkTk.html
Very informative! I'll be installing a system with 8 zones. All valves will be at different locations(not in the same valve box) to maximize pressure to each zone. How would you recommend wiring this system? Thanks in advance..
Did u have to blow the entire lines with air b4 u cut the pipe just so all the water doesn't back fill into the area where ur manifold is suppose to go?
Very useful video - thanks! What is the manifold brand, and where can I get it? Is it better than building one? I am interested because it looks like schedule 80.
Old post, I know... but if you have those automatic drains AFTER the valve - isn't it wasting water every time you water? Wouldn't the entire volume of the pipe from the valve to the sprinklers be wasted?
Hi kerry have u ever used a doubler it will make to valves work off 1 zone and do u get a lot of fric loss by using a lot of bends on the dis to the sprinklers from the valvs i allways thout that the shortest dis btween 2 points is a str line
i have a question. the auto release valves open up when pressure is reduced and let the water out of the system. i understand the valve on the pressure side of the zone valves, but the auto release valve would release after each run of the zone on the non pressure side of the zone valve and empty the entire zone of water. that makes no sense
If the auto drains are installed in low spots throughout the sprinkler system they do drain a bit of water each time a zone shuts off but they prevent freeze damage when the system is shut down for winter.
Hi again, another great video, I was curious though if you have to use pvc pipe on the manifold when the rest of the system is polypipe? thanks in advance
Hi Kerry! Thank you for your thorough, educational videos. A question that has popped time and again during your install videos is this: it is absolutely necessary to install automatic drain valves if we live down here in FL? Temp has dipped into the upper 20s 4 or 5 times in the last 7 years here in the Tampa Bay area and never for more than 36 hours. Thanks in advance!
Automatic drains are good for sprinkler systems in colder weather climates. Where I live if a system doesn't have automatic drains homeowners will often have the system blown out in the fall with compressed air. If you haven't had any freeze damage on your system over the last several years I don't think it is necessary to install drains. My experience is the temperature needs to get to the low 20s and stay there for a few days before it does freeze damage to a sprinkler system.
hi Kerry I love all your videos I am working on a irtrol spk 700 2 inch valve it is not opening I put a new solined on it and cleaned it out when I turn the soiled it won't open even if I try with the timer I am thinking of getting a kit 4 it bit a kit is about 50 $ any ida
Most sprinkler valves for residential applications are 1". The supply line to the valves in this video is 1" so it's easier to just stay 1" when building the manifold. The existing zone lines are 3/4" so I need to reduce from 1" at the manifold to 3/4" on the zone lines.
Hi John, I bought a line locator a number of years ago. It cost $900. Basically you put a tone on the timer wires and it will find a timer wire break. You can also locate hidden/buried valves with it also.
I open them one at a time but each one just barely drools water out. At first I thought I might just need to flush the valve but then when I tested the other valves they all do the same thing
Hi Kerry my name is John I 00have a question I am doing a retrofit from a index valve 2 in line valves with a new goulds ft 15 pump what size valve shuld I use the out let of the pump is 1/5 I was going 2 use PGA 1 in rainbird valves or dv100 f rainbird valves is it OK to go from 1.5 down 2 1 in 4 the valves .any help.will b appreciate
If I'm understanding your comment correctly your pump has a 1-1/2" outlet. It's fine to go from 1-1/2" to 1" feeding the valves. You could either install a 1-1/2 x 1" bushing in the pump outlet and run 1" pipe from the pump, or run 1-1/2 pipe to the valve manifold and bushing down to 1" there.
iScaper1 so all those pipes have drains on them but something is different about the pipe on the far left it looks like it has one of the knobs of the drain on it connected up to the grey pipe at 7:04 whats that?
If you buy a Rain Bird ESP-Me timer it comes with 4 stations in the base unit. If you need more stations you can simply add a 3 station or 6 station module.
If you have one wire opening two valves at once, couldn't you skip using the extra valve entirely and just run additional pipe to a valve? This would save money and installation headache of installing an unnecessary valve.
It's called piggy backing man it won't hurt anything. Golf courses do it all the time with valve-in-head set ups. I've seen it in residential systems as well and it's usually because of what happened in this video (not enough wires). Not the end of the world, just poor planning during the installation.
