Excellent video. I learned a lot. I replaced a booster and master cylinder a couple years ago and almost went crazy trying to get the brake fitting to thread into the hole in the new part. After a lot of wiggling it worked out.
+SK4869 Yes it is a lot of work! But once the bleeders are broken free you don't need to pull the wheels to access them after the test drive, just use ramps and slide underneath.
you always make it look so simple. if only you didn't have to rip half the motor away to get to the Brake master cylinder. but once everything is put back together you are good to go my friend. thanks love watching you show us how it's done. :)
@@speedkar99 BSK Garage my car i20 clutch pedal drops to floor and never return back while driving. Is the master or slave cylinder bad?? How to confirm?
@@speedkar99 BSK Garage my car i20 clutch pedal drops to floor and never return back while driving. Is the master or slave cylinder bad?? How to confirm?
@@speedkar99 BSK Garage my car i20 clutch pedal drops to floor and never return back while driving. Is the master or slave cylinder bad?? How to confirm?
I have the European version of what you call iM in its very first generation...it's basically a Corolla hatchback 2009 model...known as Auris. One week after a transmission repair in the middle of last summer ,the brake pedal started to have no pressure and being spongy...yeah i know it can't be a connection between clutch and transmission with the brake system and brake master cylinder but it was that moment i kept im my mind... Car had 180,000km when the brake problem first appeared and after... I did a few km again for vacations on an island,brakes were normal...came back in my town and brakes started falling again not only in stops but in low speed as well . Driving downhill was a nightmare and ABS engaged most of the times to help the situation .Then in the start of October brakes came back to normal all the way through winter till a week before on April.Now car have 197k I do all services at Toyota dealership and every 30,000km (every second service) they bled brake lines as part of maintenence. Do you think it's a bad brake master cylinder?But how all the winter brakes were normal and now that temperature is above 20 Celsius it happens again?
speedkar99 i only know that they bleed the brake system...at least that's what the full service plan is. Few weeks now brake pedal sometimes goes to the floor if a press it indolently.During the winter brakes were normal like it didn't happen before.
speedkar99 Is ABS system bleed different procedure than brake system bleed? Do you think it could be a bad ABS module since sometimes brake pedal is softer than other times? During winter i had a normal hard brake pedal...
By any chance will you be making a timing belt video? I'm thinking of making an attempt to changing the timing belt while I'm changing the valve cover gaskets and thermostat?
+IXBlackoutXI1 I did a timing belt video last year on my 1MZ-FE: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_c_a-ECaWSU.html Might have to redo the TB/WP next year on my 3MZ-FE Lexus because the water-pump is leaking.
@@speedkar99 BSK Garage my car i20 clutch pedal drops to floor and never return back while driving. Is the master or slave cylinder bad?? How to confirm?
Great video as always. I followed your video and did the bench bleed on car. Any more tips for bench bleeding the master cylinder? I'm not getting any fluid out of the rear port. The front port bled out brake fluid within 3 cycles.
@@speedkar99 Sir, why one output terminal of my car ignition coil gives less sparks than the other terminal. In fact, the 2 terminals are control by a single primary circuit of the same ignition coil!!! The other ignition coil has the same issue. I have checked for all resistance readings of the PRIMARY AND SECONDARY CIRCUITS of each IGNITION COILS which shows normal values. Please kindly help. Thanks.
my suzuki liana, brake padel when pressed apply brakes then moves forward or starts sinking, no sign on oil loss or reduced, further when pump it two three times padel feels perfectly alright. my guess is master cylinder seals are gone, requires your opinion.
Did you find out what was wrong with the MC? My Nissan has similar braking issues and my mechanic thinks it's due to worn rear drum brake pads, which I don't believe...
@@speedkar99 Sir, why one output terminal of my car ignition coil gives less sparks than the other terminal. In fact, the 2 terminals are control by a single primary circuit of the same ignition coil!!! The other ignition coil has the same issue. I have checked for all resistance readings of the PRIMARY AND SECONDARY CIRCUITS of each IGNITION COILS which shows normal values. Please kindly help. Thanks.
Nice Video. A word of advice though. Brake fluid isnt terribly corrosive on car paint. I always tend to loose a lot everywhere and never have a problem. On plastic, especially headlights it will mess them up. One trick I learned to avoid bleeding every wheel is do the bench bleeding procedure, then bleed the brakes from the front two lines several times, and you wont have to bleed out everywheel. Bleeder screws are a pain too. Had to replace 3 wheel cylinders because they got stripped. Best to heat them up with a torch before you open them and use 1/4 ratchet to break them open. Patience. Some cars have pedals that naturally feel soft, like my yaris. I replaced my MC last year with a new aftermarket dorman one, and it failed, so I'm returned it and put back the OEM on.
+AwesomenessIskey Thanks for the tips. Bench bleeding alone will still leave some air in the lines at the point of connection to the MC. Its best to bleed the rest of the air out of the wheels and put fresh fluid in that hasn't been exposed to moisture.
+speedkar99 Thats true, if I were doing a complete flush it would be better, but many mechanics just want to get the job done as quick as possible. I found that my pedal felt the same bleeding the lines from the master cylinder a few times or better.
I wouldn't feel safe leaving that bit of air in the lines. After engaging the ABS a few times on a test drive I was able to get a significant amount of air out of the system which made the pedal much firmer than a regular bleed.
+speedkar99 Mine has no abs. Interestingly enough, different brake systems react differently. My friend had a jeep when we pushed back the caliper, it made the brakes almost non existant, even with the lines closed. After bleeding at the wheels several times, I bled the master cylinder and it made it better than what it was before. Most cars dont push air back when you compress the piston, but some do. Thats why I like to test the brakes when I ever do a brake job for someone
Honestly I don't see what the difference is between bench bleeding and bleeding it with it hooked up to the car. I've had two mechanics say the bench bleed is the way to do it. But those connections leave air in no matter the method. I need to save money and do this myself but its only the 2nd thing I will have repaired and I'm not sure now is the time to take a chance. I followed your power steering fluid replacement video and other than a couple of rookie errors like thinking I could refill the fluid with the gallon jug because I had a funnel there to catch it, it went fine. My slow speed turning is way better than it was previously which I was not expecting. Thank you , +speedkar99
@@speedkar99 Sir, why one output terminal of my car ignition coil gives less sparks than the other terminal. In fact, the 2 terminals are control by a single primary circuit of the same ignition coil!!! The other ignition coil has the same issue. I have checked for all resistance readings of the PRIMARY AND SECONDARY CIRCUITS of each IGNITION COILS which shows normal values. Please kindly help. Thanks.
is bench bleed necessary? can i just bleed from the brake caliper to get the air out from the master cylinder all the way down to the brake caliper, will that work?
+Ray T Technically you can but it will take a very long time to bleed all the air out of the lines, especially since air is compressible. Ive tried it and it took a lot of pumping and refilling to finally get fluid coming out of the caliper.
@@speedkar99 Sir, why one output terminal of my car ignition coil gives less sparks than the other terminal. In fact, the 2 terminals are control by a single primary circuit of the same ignition coil!!! The other ignition coil has the same issue. I have checked for all resistance readings of the PRIMARY AND SECONDARY CIRCUITS of each IGNITION COILS which shows normal values. Please kindly help. Thanks.
Mushy Brakes: According to my understanding, once you get air into the ABS system you are going to need to go to the dealer to bleed the system to get the pedal feel the was it was before you bleed air through the system. Can someone confirm or deny?
+siucbset I have techstream. On my Solara there isn't an option to even get into the ABS ECU. On my Lexus, in the ABS tab there's a brake bleed option but when I click on it it says my vehicle doesn't support it. The best way to get air out is to bleed the brakes, drive on gravel/snowy pavement and slam on the brakes to cycle the abs a few times, then rebleed again. I found doing this took out a good amount more air on the second bleed, and the pedal is now nice and firm.
Have the same mushy feeling brake pedal. How did you diagnose that the master cylinder needs to be replaced? Could it simply have been fixed with a fluid change? Thanks for the vid again. Very helpful.
+Riza Khan I've done a few fluid changes in the past, upgraded and cleaned my brakes, and it was still mushy. So naturally I started thinking about the MC. However, after changing the MC (and then changing it back due to a minor leak), I realized it wasn't my MC, but it was my brake bleed procedure didn't include stomping on the brakes on a slippery surface to engage the ABS. After the test drive, I got back and got a good amount of air from the system, and from then on, the brakes have been nice and firm. I'm now back on the original MC.
I changed out a failing master cylinder recently on my 97 camry and bled the system with a Mityvac pump, but it is still not as rock hard like it was from the factory. Granted it is much better and safer than it was, but it's still mushy up until a certain point. Do you think it may be the old brake lines?
+MrSatchelpack Have you driven the car on gravel/snowy roads, engaged the ABS and traction control a few times then rebled the system? I got a lot of air out of the system after that second bleed.
hi speedkar. did you use black gasket maker instead of a new gasket on the master cylinder? I've been looking for a new gasket but have been unable to find one.Thanks
+Melanie Andries Yes. I wasn't able to find that gasket either. Its just an air/moisture gasket, not super critical that it seals. It just keeps moisture away from the booster rod.
@@speedkar99 When issues arose, without depressing the clutch pedal, I changed the position of gear stick from 1 to 5 or R or from any position with engine still running, there seems no sudden movement or jerk or shaking. It's really surprised. However, when it was normal, the car engine stop at any gear changes without clutch depressed. This is ok for every car.
Thanks for the video. I have a Toyota Hilux 1993 pickup truck. I did the same thing and it was working alright. But recently after couple of weeks the e-brake light on the dashboard started flashing while I'm pressing the normal brake (pedal brake not the e- brake).. It flashes once I press the brake hard and turns off after wards. This keeps happening every time. The fluid level is not low and I think the truck does not come with a low fluid sensor.. What might be the reason for this? Plz need a help
+tharakaswalpita I went to a technician. He said the problem is with the power booster vacuum. That's what indicates the light. It's a Diesel engine so later on I'll have to replace it.
how did you know your master cylinder was bad? it could be your fluid was hyper bad or you had air in the system; did you actually bought a new master cylinder or rebuilt the old one or just cleaning it? why did you have so many master cylinder around? which part or what has to be done to rebuild one? so you are from and in Canada? insulate your garage to keep it warm and keep the videos coming during winter pleeeease. I moved from vehicle repair videos to programming and ee tutorials but watch now and then for relaxing take care and an advice, lose the round head ratchet and I think gearwrench 120xp and milwaukee 3/8 right angle wrench would be better to use
+nhz013 My brake pedal was mushy even having bled it a few times. I got a few MC from the junkyard and experimented with them. One was from a 4 cylinder car that doesn't bolt up, the other was seized and the other I replaced in my car. Turns out the one I replaced was a bit leaky at the connection, and the pedal was sometimes spongy and sometimes hard. So I pulled the piston/seals from it and put it in my existing cylinder and bled the brakes again, this time twice after having engaged the ABS on a test drive to get more air out. Now the pedal is nice and firm and I feel like I have brakes now. I'm comfortable with my tools right now, if I need something I'll go out and buy it. I do have a set of ratcheting wrenches that I rarely use but come in handy in tight spaces, and of course an air ratchet. Yes I'm in Canada. Not much room in the garage and poor lighting for videos, but I've got a few smaller indoor projects lined up for the winter. One of them - since you're into programming - is a sequential turn signal mod. Wanna help me with the circuit for that? :)
your accent is weird, sometimes you sound canadian or american, othertime mexican or central/south-american, and some times ever european. its odd. I cant place you. Nice vid though ,thanks. I'm studying to become a mechanic and this video helped me quite a bit
I have a Toyota Corolla nze and the master cylinder is a aisin 13 /16 . If I have to rebuild it what size and brand of seals will I have to buy. Thank you.
you have too many dirt in your fluid....there maybe a debris that got into the seals making the cylinder leak internally....is your replacement a used one from a junkyard? i used one from a junkyard last year, its looks like it is starting to fail now....rebuild master cylinders are mostly not good.....better buy brand new
+EvendimataE Yes mine was from the junkyard. Didn't pay too much for them so if it lasts a year, fine, I'll rebuild it myself next year or get a cheaper aftermarket new one.
check the one you removed.....sometimes the gaskets are still good but there are just some dirt causing it to have internal leak....i tried to look for repair kit, did not find any...i think its not available for that model.
Okay my "new" MC is starting to drag the brakes....lugs are getting hot, car is feeling sluggish, burning smell of brakes.... Pedal is nice and responsive in traffic, but gets spongy after a highway run. I'm guessing the piston is too slow to retract all the way during stop and go traffic. Gonna have to tear this down yet again...
