How to replace a damaged downtube on your bike - Framebuilding 101 with Paul Brodie 

Mitch and I are just getting going... thanks for watching and helping to spread the word.

They are amazing. I have learned so much since I started watching them.

I was born in the UK, partly why I have a funny accent :)

Thank you. I don't even think that RU-vid was around 20 years ago....

@@paulbrodie Probably not, but I did have the Talbot book...

Marco, thanks for watching and commenting.

That's cool :)

@@paulbrodie where can this be found please?

@@paulgriffin5572 Where can an Excelsior be found?

@@paulbrodie the story of the rebuild?

@@paulgriffin5572 On my website: www.flashbackfab.com

Thank you Justin. Very kind.

Thanks for watching. 54 years with metal :)

Thank you Darksoda 13.

Grinding out lugs sounds like a lot of work!

Anders, that's very cool you aligned you frame and can now ride no hands! Thanks for watching and commenting.

Thank you very much. I do like to do the best job I can. That's what gives me a lot of satisfaction!

Thank you.

Hello Argentina!

Thanks Diego. Mitch has a habit of making me look good.

Well, that's a shame. I'm sorry to hear they got recycled..

Thank you David. It's actually a bronze fillet; I don't use brass because it is so much weaker than bronze.

Thank you Graham.

The Nickel Silver rod also goes by 773. The diameter is 1/16", bare rod. A good welding supply shop will know what you want. All along I have been explaining my brazing techniques; I have talked about the size of the cone, angle of the cone, distance of the cone, sanding silver solder, preheating, paste flux, gas fluxer, oxidizing flame, neutral flame, carburizing flame, backwards brazing, fillet brazing, soaking off flux, heat sinks, fillet thicknesses, heat stains, and more. If you go back and check our videos that have brazing, all that information is in there. Having a mentor to help you learn can be very beneficial. I can offer information in these videos, but you are not getting any feedback... Good Luck!

@@paulbrodie Thank You... Z

It's just a different technique. They are both strong if done correctly. A fillet braze can be more artistic because the lines should flow better.

Practice, practice and more practice. I have been making things out of metal for 54 years now. Thanks for watching!

@@paulbrodie Yeah, I can tell that. So I reckon I should jump off the cliff and see what's going on. Pleasure.

In Framebuilding 101 we purchased from Nova Cycles in CA.

Thanks for watching. I made all my own frame jigs and fixtures.

Not quite sure what you are asking. Hydraulic cable isn't metal, and is readily available...

@@paulbrodie i mean, CABLE LINE in steel frame, for disc brake especially discbrake with hidraulic cable... sorry cz i can't give example for the picture here

@@MasDito Yes it is all possible, but why? To show your friends?

@@paulbrodie of course, i will share ur video to them... and became new subs :D

Hello Greece! I like brazing too. Thanks for liking our videos 😉

Tom, I have not done a lot of work with lugged frames, but I do have a little understanding of what is involved. A cheap, heavy lugged frame is probably easier than a finely made frame with super thin lugs. First step is to cut a section out of the top tube. It would seem obvious to heat the lug and top tube and pull out the top tube. That is the danger. It's very hard to get everything hot enough for a clean separation. Very easy to rip the lug and hurt the frame. Best to cut the top tube very short and carefully grind out the top tube remnants. Very time consuming! Good luck.

Sounds like you had a great grandpa!

Let's say $400 :)

@@paulbrodie thanks for the estimate

I have started wearing gloves for the videos. I was a shop teacher for 9.5 years. I taught Framebuilding 101 at the University of the Fraser Valley. Thanks for commenting.

Thanks for liking our videos 😉

We have two brazing videos, and the torch, rods, and fluxes are all discussed. You get brands and part numbers... Thanks for watching our videos.

Thanks for watching!

My best guess is some form of rust... Thanks for watching!

Thanks. I think it's possible, but it would have to be silver soldered, and you had better choose a well-regarded framebuilder, not a novice.You should never go back the that mechanic, and he should pay for your cost of repair.

No, the frame is steel. Thanks for watching.

what size is the tube, diameter and thickness... , thanks

@@elmadaniboudar755 I'm guessing here, but probably the OD is 1.25" and the wall thickness is 0.9 / 0.6 / 0.9mm.

Thank you.

Brian, yes I can still ride a bicycle and I do get out there. Thanks for watching!

Paul, that's John Tomac, one of the best racers ever!

Yes, I use 6061 aluminum and 1018 steel, which is cold rolled. Have not heard of 1117 until now. For easy machining we have cold rolled with lead. It machines beautifully but is not so great for welding. 303 Stainless has sulphur in it that makes it easier to machine, but is still strong.

@@paulbrodie 1117 is kind of between 1018 and 1215 as far as machining. It’s not nearly as inclined to rust as 1215, though. 1117 case-hardens nicely. This helps with abrasive wear.

I have absolutely no idea what you are talking about. Thanks for watching!

He might be speaking of a trials bike.

You do have to be careful and aware of where the molten bronze is going to go. Good gloves, good boots, fire extinguisher..

@@paulbrodie - You'd probably have to spray me w/ the fire extinguisher before I started welding or brazing.... 😂

It was a bunch of "black stuff". Not really sure what it was. If it was rust, it would have been brown. Can't really give you a satisfactory answer, sorry.

The bike might be safe to ride, or it might not, basically impossible for me to say from this far away... I don't like the idea of welding on those extra pieces you discussed. If you are going to ride it, check it every day for cracks. The cracks will develop slowly, the chances of it "breaking quickly" are remote. Steel will also give you a warning by creaking or making other sounds. So, be careful, and check for new cracks very often. Thanks for watching....

Thank you so much Mr. @@paulbrodie. I'm too too, ocean apart, to send my frame to inspect or repair. Best wishes.

Head tube or downtube?

No, that is the signature part of a frame, where the framebuilder gets to show his or her's artistry. I think cables and cable stops are ugly and boring. Anyone can do that. It takes very little skill. We're Canadian, eh?

@@paulbrodie Thank you for all that you do! I never got to take a shop class and these videos just satisfy some sort of creative urge with bicycles that I never got out of my system ...

Jerome, I probably said "soak off" the flux. Flux is water soluble, and after heating with a torch, it can get quite hard to remove. You can bead blast it, but you might not have a bead blaster, and it does take time. Everyone usually has access to a hot water tap. If you hold the tube / braze / flux under hot water, it comes off in a few minutes. Now, if you have "burnt" the flux (from overheating..) and it has gone black, for that you will need a bead blaster...

Yes, I believe there are still a few builders who like to work with traditional lugs.

@@paulbrodie Thanks so much for taking the time to answer. I really enjoy your videos.

@@dwightbrown2808 Thanks for watching :)

Well, if you want to be picky, that is your choice.

@@paulbrodie I still found the video interesting after watching it.

@@davestambaugh7282 Very good. Thank you.

I think it depends what kind of a Tig welder you are. If you can do a very small, clean Tig weld, then no problem. If you overheat and the weld goes black then the braze will not flow over that... then you will need to sand!

@@paulbrodie thats what i exspected. thanks. i was considering to tack with tig myself some time ago but stayed with braze tacks. would you see any clear upside in welded tacks? i just stumbled over you account and i enjoy watching it even tho i did most of the stuff myself and have my own routines. nice work

@@kokadedru5157 Yes I have stumbled onto videos too. On the front triangle, Tig-tacking is faster, but braze tacks are also fine. On the rear triangle, that's where Tig-tacking starts to shine. Because the heat of the arc occurs so fast, the weld is very quick and spread of the heat zone almost non existent. So, no pulling and pushing on the jig first on one side, then on the other as the first side is cooling. A Tig-tacked frame should come off the jig straighter than a braze tacked frame. That's what I think.

Just found your comment Jim. Sorry to take so long.. I was using a stainless brush but a regular wire brush will work just as well.

@@paulbrodie Thanks Paul!!!

Mitch was in our very last video, "We're Back!" I guess you haven't watched that one...

@@paulbrodie I'm getting old. I may have seen it and forgot. chers

@@paulbrodie I will take a look see now.

@@thinkpadBentnoseTheBlind It's the only video we put out in the last 158+ days. I have a beard. Kind of hard to miss this one...

I like steel too.

I do not know that person sorry.

It's true!

The wrinkle in the tube means that it has been overstressed, and is now weaker than stock.

"complacency"

@@paulbrodie 😁 engineers are not realy known for thier spelling lol

I would happily watch a video off you doing just that. Always happy to learn new things.