Zachary Henning My bad, the camera was off for some reason, you can check the alternate version, jump to 7:20 in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-c4Faum0Ercg.html
+José Faria I am a beginner and I think You are more beginner. 'Cuase: 1. If You use a hot air gun, then You can just pick the component and you don't need a soldering iron: 02:38, 2. Use solder paste: 08:47! I mean not at all harm.
Kamal _88 Thank you for taking the time to comment. Regarding your points: 1. The less time you are heating the PCB, the less damage you are likely to do to the inner layers of the PCB. Give me 1 reason not to use the soldering iron to heat the ground plane faster (remember we're talking about a 6+ layer PCB designed to use the ground plane as a CPU heat-sink). The only way to do it faster is to use very hot air temperatures, which might in turn damage the nearby MEMS microphone, even by conduction (why do you think there are so many on sale for Samsung phones?). If the PCB can take it I use very hot air, like in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-o-33Ury-Qhc.htmlm35s 2. That desoldering wick i smade by Goot, it has plenty of RMA flux inside, the conduction problem was caused by the oxidized tip. The biggest difficulty is trying to work far away from the board to get away from the camera :)
You would have an easier time getting the solder off if you used the leaded solder and resoldered those pads, it will add some flux, get rid of a lot of the lead free crap, which requires crazy amounts more of heat, 185C compared to 227C for most lead free solder. That tip was pretty bad, needs a clean.
spent hours days nights on these now i love to cook motherboards in oven better faster and works ;) but look at him he is a text book guy really nice video
You know, you can use side cutters to cut the four legs, a small blob of solder on the signal pins and the jack will come right off. A soldering iron and a solder sucker will quickly remove the legs from the holes. Takes about a minute.
Joseph, should the 5 pins at the back of the USB port be contacting the mirror image pins which are housed on the board itself, as I cannot re seat the port on the 4 solder points and get the pins to sit on the board. Many thanks.
Soldering flux helps a whole lot in the process of de-soldering and re-soldering... Taking it off with flux shouldn't take you more then a second to do... I have a hot air gun and I dab flux on the connectors and bingo :D.... Quick... Also flux when your using the wick oh boy does it suck it up quickly leaving the holes open and clean... Just use alcohol to remove the residue and reply flux... The hardest part I found with this was installing without a magnifier. But I was successful in the fix....
When using wick to remove excessive solder better to try to "spread" the wick a little bit making it wider before using it, this allows it to suck the thin faster.
You are right, but I only had sharp tips on hand at the time. My soldering station is a Hakko clone, the tips should be very similar, I might order a couple and see if they fit.
Really enjoyed watching it, didn't know that Kaplon tape was used for and now I do and feel confident enough at some time to use it for DIY repairs myself :)
I use kapton when I need to protect the components under it from heat and mechanical stress. It doesn't stop them from getting hot, but I believe it reduces the likelihood of heat damage and displacement.
applying a bit of flux over the desoldering wick would have helped you tremendously ;) not only the solder is absorbed better, but the heat transfer is faster.
Dumitru Ursu I agree on the heat transfer, but that solder wick made by Goot already has a decent solid resin that makes it very easy to wet, that's why I didn't bother :D
Whenever I use solder wick I won't get great results unless I add some electronic-specific paste flux to the wick. The wick is supposed to be impregnated with flux, but there's typically far too little of it to get the wicking action going. Try to use just a tiny dab right at the contact, as the flux tends to flow out when it heats up & liquifies, and can spread over a large area if used excessively. But sometimes the bare wick won't do much to wick any solder away from the contact without a little help. A twenty-five Watt pencil should be more than enough heat to flow the solder. The proper way to do this is to put a tiny droplet of flux on the contact with a toothpick and set the end of the wick on the contact, and heat the wick from the top with the soldering pencil, pressing down gently until the solder melts & flows, then lifting (or carefully sliding) the wick away from the contact. Try to avoid touching any thing other than the contact with the hot wick.
+randolph patterson Have you tried goot solder wicks (Taiyo Electric)? They have a good amount of solid flux that gets fluid with heat. Of course it will not get any worse if you add more, but it is usually good enough. A 25W iron sounds a bit low for some boards, like RF boards with a lot of via stitching, unless it has a very good controller. Who is the manufacturer of your soldering iron?
+José Faria No, I'd never heard of Goot. Thanks for the tip, it's about time to put years of frustration to an end. I got a lot of stuff from the local Radio Shack before it closed, and I have 5 or 6 irons around. I mostly work on handwired audio stuff, vintage amps. I'm not real picky about what I use, if it gets the job done. I was interested for a while in getting a cordless, but it was so long ago I can't even remember what it was called. I don't have a soldering station, and some of the prices seem downright ridiculous to me. But to be clear, I'm fanatical about the quality of the work I do, and I enjoy taking my sweet time. That would never be an asset on an assembly line, to be sure, but that's not why I'm in the game. For example, I got a free set of ancient pa speakers with a bunch of melted connections, dangling circuit boards, and broken input jacks. No parts available from the OEM, no schematic, huge crazy mess of bundled wiring, and no employed repairman in the world would touch this. Right up my alley....
randolph patterson If you ever need to work with lead-free (I only use lead-free, I build prototypes and they need to behave the same as the automated production stuff), give this one a try: www2.mouser.com/ProductDetail/AIM-American-Iron-and-Metal/14111/?qs=M7ZD%2f0QMIQxzdiUSEKYDAw== It's worth every cent, iron set to around 340°C and it's easier to solder than most leaded solder. After trying out many brands of flux, I also think this one is worth every cent: www2.mouser.com/ProductDetail/MG-Chemicals/8341-10ML/?qs=%2fha2pyFadugjDmQk%2fpfUAqZeS3Ct%2fdkCs%2fU5EyLx6u4%3d With that solder and flux combination, I've never missed leaded solder ever since.
Sometimes is much easier to heat underneath rather from the top and the job can be done very effectively.Temperature around 400 and air as much as not travelling the other components.
FYI... If you are concerned about component damage from the clips, just put some heat shrink over the each jaw of the clips, apply heat to shrink in place. The rubber grips well and components are protected.
Hello everyone. Before you go ripping your phone apart are you having connection problems with your USB cable. If you wiggle it on the phone end it works or beeps on and off? Well if so it is a poor connection caused by male/female mismatch. I realized this when my OEM cable worked fine but most others did not and some not at all. So what to do? simple! first I did a test with regular paper and it worked. 1) place the paper in the mini connector or the usb cable (approx 1/4in wide by 1in long) 2 fold the paper over onto the out side of the connector so it sits between the raised points 3) insert the connector into your phone Try your phone For a permanent solution I replaced the paper with duct tape It is a little tight which I expect to get looser over time. I don't think the folded over portion is necessary as their is adhesive on the tape to hold it in place so cut it off after placing the plug into the phone for the first time to get the tape to adhere. At worse you scrap a 3 dollar cable. Good Luck.
Phone works fine Reno, but no charge facility, was just wondering if the 5 pins housed at the center of the USB port connector should sit, (or make contact) with the identical 5 pins located on the mother board, as I never really looked as I was prying the original USB port from the board? Any help appreciated.
Oh my god....you...are you ... Are you god? Be real because iv spent at least 1,000 dollars on micro usbs, infact i came here to get an idea on how i was going to remove the micro usb port and instail a mini usb port(remember mini usbs they never broke because they were sturdy and they wernt bulky at all samsung invented this to break) and then i read the comments and this angel single handedly fixed all my usb cords with a piece of paper. I just want to say im a real big fan of your work god, i especially like stars and i thought gravity was just brilliant, thanks for making us god and being perfect! I hope to see you in heaven mr. god!
Testing solder joints for melt point with a metal point quickly pulls the heat out of the joint. Try bamboo sticks or tooth picks. Have not tried this non metal is the point.
Hot air Piropen (with a nozzle quarter the size) and solder paste are all that's required... and set much hotter than 350c! I wouldn't go near it it with a soldering iron - for either taking the old one off or fitting the new. Two minute job! :-)
+geoffphuket Removal is a two minute job with a good soldering iron. Been doing it for 30 years. Resoldering is also easy with an iron. I was trained by Nintendo on their SMT boards. Hot air station is nice, but not needed for small jobs like this.
when u solder the new component does it matter if u all the connections are touching because it just looks like you are wiping them alll and so wont all of them be touching?
2knackers When you use good quality flux you can use a technique called "drag soldering", where you just drag your soldering iron along a row of pins and the flux prevents them from creating bridges. Watch a couple of drag soldering videos on youtube, it all goes down to the quality of the flux.
Yes, and during, if I recall correctly, with a syringe. A family member asked me to replace the USB receptacle in a Samsung tablet, if I have the time I will try to do another video with more clear steps.
What kind of flux is recommended for both desoldering and soldering new components? I noticed there are three types. I've never really needed flux before because I've always soldered things on large boards but I'm worried about attempting a micro repair.
If you don't do it very often, I would recommend some kind of flux paste, not the watery kind. Buy a good quality flux paste and you will never go back.
Better microscope should have been used to satisfy the viwers. It seemed like using a mobile phone camera for video recording of micro soldering procedures.
I think I had mine set at 370°C, but it is not calibrated and the real temperature was less than that. It has a small tip with very low mass, that's why it needs high temperatures. Note that if you are soldering sensitive components at such high temperatures you have to be very quick, avoid more than 1 second at that temperature.
Hey, next time try ChipQuik. Port would be off in 1minute with SAFE temperatures as low as 150C no damages to pad or neighboring components. It will be like magic!
Never used it, but it is really expensive, they use alloys with metals like indium and gallium. It also feels like it will probably not work on stuff like BGAs or connectors with large pads soldered to ground planes, did you try it in those cases?
Hello, the one in the video is a really cheap Atten 858D, they cost around 50 USD+shipping, pretty good value for money. You can find lots of them on aliexpress or ebay. My favorite cheap soldering station is a Pro's Kit SS-989 that I bought in a local store, it costs about twice as much but it is significantly better. These are my recommendations for budget equipment, however, if you can afford it, buy something from a proper quality manufacturer, you won't regret it.
Hey José wondering if you can help me :) I'm currently using an xiomi mipad, and the charger port is on its last legs :( the mipad is an unpopular device so there are no repare parts selling for it :( can I use any charger port as long as its the right size?
VideosWithNexus You will have to bodge it , but microUSB receptacles are very similar and mostly nearly interchangeable. The most obvious difference I've seen is the outer shield, some have pins that need to go though holes in the PCB (like the one in the video, and they are mostly like this), others just have pads that don't need an hole to be soldered. You should look at yours and buy one that resembles it, check the product images, there is a good chance it will fit.
i have 2 question in what heat is the solderind iron and what the hot air ? where can i buy capton tape? (the orange tape that i saw to protect the other compoents from the hot air ?) a link from ebay would be much appreciated!
I usually set both the iron and hot air at around 350°C You can buy kapton tape from many online retailers, but I usually buy on aliexpress, it's usually cheaper than eBay: www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&SearchText=kapton+tape
+abdulrazack oketona Hi, those are all personal preference, you should use what you find most comfortable, I used 15mm kapton tape and 1.27mm soldering wire.
I'm wondering if you could have used your heat gun together with your wick to remove the excess solder after removing the old port. Instead of using your soldering pencil I mean......
panther105 Probably would have helped if I had the hot air nozzle helping the iron, but I was afraid it would overheat something. I don't think that if I was only using hot air the solder wick would get close enough to the PCB without the soldering iron pressing, but I actually never tried, I might try it soon.
I've ripped my tracks a bit for the data and power, the leads don't line up anymore, some of the remaining track is barely visible. is there a suggested method to repair?
If you have patience, you can solder the new USB receptacle and then use thin copper wires to replace the missing tracks and pads like in this tutorial: www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/99 In your case it will be a bit more challenging because the USB pins are very close together and the solder will have a tendency to bridge, but with plenty of flux and a small amount of solder it is definitely doable, I've bodged plenty of wires in TQFP packages, so with a bit of patience you can do it. Just make sure you don't have shorts circuits between pins.
if is thake soo much to replace this what happens if u have some pad removed? and if in near is plastic. this is for that people what dont have to do whit his time
lissete mata The USB receptacle I used had little pins in the shield that needed to go inside the holes in the PCB, that's why I was trying to clear the holes, so that the USB socket would fit perfectly before I tried to solder it. I don't know if you could fit it properly without cleaning the holes, the ground plane of the PCB was dissipating a lot of heat, it had a lot of via stitching, I was afraid that if I used hot air it would damage the plastic bits in the new USB socket before the solder in the ground plane melted. Note that if you use solder wick, it's very important that you make sure you don't pull the solder wick from the PCB very hard, be very careful and lift it very gently or you might lift the PCB tracks if it's not hot enough. Regarding the flux, I use this one: www.mgchemicals.com/products/solder/fluxes/no-clean-flux-paste-8341/ It costs around 9 euros on Mouser. It's a bit expensive, like most high quality flux, but it works beautifully. There are plenty of good quality flux around from several manufacturers, I just tried this specific one, liked it and I didn't look any further. I also have flux pens and brushes, but I find they evaporate a bit too quickly (it is easier to clean, however).
i would've wicked/sucked away the ground plane solder before proceeding with hot gun, and the gun might be calibrated, but if you hold it so far away, it wont heat up much
Kaisser Nobleza It's lead-free solder, there is no lead; it's mostly tin, it melts at higher temperatures. There were 11 pads, personally I find it easier to just use hot air.
now i dont really get some of parts you do like with that orange cable thingy. but would it be okay if I directly solder the new port on the board to the gap of the old port?
Short answer: don't do it unless access to a soldering station is absolutely impossible, there is a big chance of lifting the USB pads and vias. A a last resort you could try and melt the solder on the data and power pins with the soldering iron and lift them from the PCB with a blade, if successful you could then try and heat the shield all at once by placing the soldering iron on top of the shield and, after the solder hets up, remove it with tweezers.
Temp too low, he should have that sucker off in ten seconds. Also don't prod with metal to see if solder is metling , that acts as a heat sink . You will see the solder flow when it's ready to part company. Put some flux on work BEFORE heating.
Great video. Unfortunately I think the processors are way to close to the port on an xperia t main board and now i'm thinking spare battery and some sort of off-board charging rig. Hey I will pay you to make that for me !!!! Contact me and name your price!
José Faria its a cheap soldering iron i bought for 5 dollars. i cant change the temperature and im not sure how many grades it has. and no im not using hot air :(
If you are into hobby electronics, I would recommend a temperature controlled soldering station, even if it is a cheap one, it's so much easier to work with than a regular soldering iron. If you can afford it, go for a good brand like weller, hakko, jbc, etc. They cost a significant amount of money, but if you use it regularly you won't regret it: they will last longer (especially the tips and even more so with lead-free solder), they will have better/smarter temperature controllers and always have spare parts available. If you can't afford a good brand go for a clone, they are very reasonable (this video was done with a cheap station). If you are on a budget go for something like this: www.aliexpress.com/item/Best-Selling-220v-ATTEN-AT8586-2-in-1-SMD-Rework-Station-Hot-Air-Gun-Solder-Iron/540587582.html or this: www.aliexpress.com/item/DHL-Freeshipping-110V-220v-KADA-852D-Rework-Welder-Station-SMT-Hot-Air-Soldering-Iron-SMD-Solder/1847753385.html There are also lots of those on eBay, but if you can afford it go for a good brand, they are worth the higher prices. With that out of the way, it's not impossible to do it with just a soldering iron (although I'm not sure about a low power one like yours), but it's not recommended at all, what people do when they have to do that in "emergency" situations is connect all the usb pins with a blob of solder, then heat the connector shield until the shield's solder in the PCB is melted and then quickly heat the first blob of solder so that all pins and shield get hot at the same time. If all goes well the connector will lift of the board, however you would need a very hot iron to do this and it is very likely you would do damage to the PCB, either lifted tracks and pads because of the mechanical stress or delamination of the PCB caused by overheating.
Make sure the pins are properly soldered and there are no solder bridges between them. Is there damage to the PCB tracks? Does that charger work on other mobile phones? Can you send me a macro photo of the USB receptacle?
No, I bought a generic one on eBay. Check the picture of the USB connector on sale and see if the footprint matches the one you need to replace. If you want to buy it locally, your local distributor should have a catalog so you can check the drawings and see if the dimensions match.
I bought mine on Amazon www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GGGVMLS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It will take about 1 to 2 weeks to arrive with free shipment from China.
Yes. I first didn't wanted to pay someone to change me that part because they asked $50 for it. Later I wanted but most of people will not work with soldering. Now I just need right tools and I will do it by myself. I'm tired of charging batteries externally.
+Mocha_Top You can get it on eBay, aliexpress or other retail websites, just search for your model number + USB port. You can also probably buy one on a local phone/laptop repair shop.
+ilias boubout Unless that smoke is flux, yes, you are probably burning the epoxy in the PCB. Even though copper and fiberglass can resist high temperatures, the gas you are releasing will probably cause the PCB to delaminate and cause failures.
joseph castro Kapton tape. It's a polyimide film that most people refer to by it's trademarked name kapton. You can search by either name and you will certainly find many results.
Search on your favorite online retailer like eBay or Aliexpress. Search for your model number, like this: "i9505 replacement usb". If you don't want to lose time soldering the USB port, buy the complete board, it's a bit more expensive but it will save you time.
@@toshavhaeir6791 Hot air, 350°C, it is used to melt the solder under the nozzle at the same time so you can solder and dessolder parts with many pins. I use one similar to these: www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&SearchText=hot+air+station+ Mine cost less than 50USD and is still working fine after 6 or 7 years, now they appear to be even cheaper.
I'm assuming you have a problem in that equipment's USB socket. If that's the case, you will have to find a way to open the device and take out the motherboard, after you do that the replacement procedure should be identical to this one.
Is kobo arc I need a new replace of the USB port. Or try to charge the battery from other resources, but if I move the mother board which isn't hard what I will find. To charger my tablet. Thanks for answer back..
Changing the USB port is more convenient than taking the battery out every time you need to charge it. If you are not confident that you can do it yourself, take it to a computer repair store and ask for a quote, it should not be too expensive.
+csaba87021 Hi, if you want a cheap station to have in a small shop to make ocasional repairs go with one of the cheap stations like this one: www.aliexpress.com/item/ATTEN-858D-SMD-Hot-Air-Rework-Station-Solder-ATTEN-AT-858D-AT-858D/32624896324.html Regarding flux and solder, don't buy low quality ones, even if you only use it once or twice a year. More than the quality of the tools you are using, good solder and flux have the most impact on how easy your work will be. Among good quality products, it really goes down to personal preference, but I highly recommend these ones: Flux: eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/MG-Chemicals/8341-10ML Solder: eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/AIM-American-Iron-and-Metal/14111 Note that, regarding the soldering station, if you have a reasonable budget go for a quality brand, they are worth it if you can afford them, some examples: www.jbctools.com/ (I never found someone who regretted buying JBC tools, really expensive but amazing tools and available pretty much anywhere) www.weller-tools.com/en/Home.html www.kurtzersa.com/electronics-production-equipment.html www.hakko.com/
I would, but I don't have an electrically operated suction pump. I never had overheating problems with ground plane pads, but it's easy to avoid that, instead of using high temperatures, a short length of desoldering braid with a high thermal mass iron should not damage pads.
Hi, the short answer is no, unfortunately. Now for the long answer: standard microUSB connectors only have 5 pins, ground, 5v, ID and two data lines, USB-C has several more signals, usually around 24 pins (many of them duplicate because the plug is reversible), but it would be very hard to fit such a large connector and wire all the required signals inside such a small phone, then you would have the problem of holding it in place so that it doesn't break when inserting or removing the cable.
It's still too small for it to be solid, you would have to use a breakout board and it would have to fit. Maybe on some tablets you could make it work, but I don't see it happening easily on a phone. Also, remember that even if you could fit a USB-C connector you would only be able to use old chargers, you wouldn't be able to use the new, proper USB-C chargers, they require additional communication to negotiate the charging voltage and current, you would need to use something like this: www.tindie.com/products/ReclaimerLabs/usb-type-c-power-delivery-phy-breakout-board/
That looked like a story that I was once told about that had a monkey and a football. There is no need to clean the solder from the traces, you could have laid down the new jack right onto the already flowed solder. And do you have some wind blowing on the board? That's why it wouldn't flow the solder. That's also why your wick stuck to the board and wouldn't come off even with a soldering iron firmly pressed against it.
No wind, just a ground plane with lots of via stitching and a cheap low thermal mass soldering iron. I cleaned the traces because I was soldering it with the soldering iron, not hot air or IR.
When I hand solder multi-pin devices with a soldering iron on old PCBs, I find I get better position accuracy when I clean the pads; and since it's very quick, why not? Just habits, I guess :)
Not to drag this out but.... Why not? Because it's not quick. It's cumbersome and time consuming and since you'll need to turn around and reapply solder, it's unnecessary. You spent several minutes getting the solder up to temp and flowing and now you cool it and fumble around with physically applied heat from a soldering iron that quite often damages traces. You yourself warned that one must be careful not to rip the trace from the board (when it sticks to the wick) but it's actually more common to damage the trace from fumbling around with a soldering iron and trying to get the trace/solder hot. Much easier to just lay the new jack down on the already flowed solder without ever removing the heat gun. Voila! Cuts your entire video/process in half.
I hand solder new prototypes for a living, so I only use new PCBs, the phone in the repair video is from a friend, it was the first micro-USB plug I've replaced, so yes, since I don't do this for a living it is very quick to clean 5 small SMD pads. I also have some experience with solder wick, that significantly reduces the likelihood of damage. Regarding the positioning, that USB socket had 9 contact points with the PCB, I don't see how you could solder it with perfect Z-axis accuracy using only a soldering iron without cleaning at least 8 of those points first. I'm not trying to correct you or anything like that, I'm just giving you my point of view, I guess we all have our methods.
man I wish you fixed my phone instead of the people I took it to. the entire port was wiggly and loose and broke within 2 days. wasted $80 on the so called "repair".
10:40 So....why not just display another one? A bit frustrating to watch a "how to" video and instead I find a "been done" video. Mind you, the skills demonstrated in this video are really sharp, but credibility is lost when the parts we want to see are not there.
+Fletch Hasues Sorry about that, that was probably one of the biggest complaints in the comments, I tried to be more detailed in my latest videos. But thanks, constructive feedback is always welcome!
