How to replace a Peugeot 206 rear trailing arm bearings 

Brilliant video. It gave me the confidence to do the job. However, and there is always a 'however', my torsion bars were totally seized in their housings and would not come off like the ones in your video. I had to find a six foot long by one and a quarter inch solid bar which I slid over the subframe to be able me to hit the torsion bar housing from behind. I had to really swing a 7lb sledge hammer at full swing to move the bar out of its splines. If in doubt, hit it harder! The torsion bar eventually came out of the subframe leaving the bar still attached to the arm. I repeated the process with a vice on the ground and a car ramp to support my bar in the right position. I then hit the end of the bar with the sledge hammer and after about ten minutes real hard hammering I managed to get the bar out of the swinging arm. It was safer to use the bar to avoid damaging the brake pipe holder bracket. I then cleaned just the rust off the splines with a thread file and ended up with a torsion bar that would slide in and out of its housing. Using the six foot long bar meant I was hammering away from the bodywork and the arm, making the risk of damaging the car or arm less. Yes, I really did swing the hammer hard! Re-assembly was easy and as 'per the video', although I find the inner bearing hard to get in and used a bearing puller kit. Thank you for a really good video.

For me driving the outer bearing in to a depth of 5/8 inch or 16mm allowed the axle shaft to be fully inserted into the bearing when I put the arm back on. Any less will result in the shaft not occupying the full width of the bearing .This measurement will also give maximum spacing between the inner and outer bearings for optimum stability of the arm. How far the arm slides onto the shaft is governed by the torsion bar. It's worth noting that the end seal will also have to be driven in to allow the anti roll bar end plates to insert/locate correctly into the the arm, I drove mine down until they GENTLY met the edge of the bearing. CarAndMechanical could you please pin this vital information where people can see it Thank you for a great instructional video which is so helpful, The Haynes Manual said that the job was beyond the scope of the manual and didn't help at all. Cheers, John ...

informative but missing a few crucial parts. Firstly the removal of the torsion bars are the single most hardest part of the whole job which you didn't cover. You need some powerful gear i.e big blow torch, sledge hammer and a solid steel drift with some good penetration oil to move them. (unless you have an air chisel or a 20kg slide hammer) Also by the state of those bearing 99% the axle pins will have deep grooves in them and will need re machining if you plan to do more than a 1000 miles. if i had any kind of play like that, for the sake of £200 delivered you can have a fully refurbished one. My advice, save up and by a refurbed one.

Wonderful tutorial! Just changed bearings on my Peugeot yesterday. However you really need a blow torch to move some of those rusty screws and as some people mentioned here before, you may really need a big hammer, blow torch and a lot of anger to make that red torsion bar moving. I almost gave up on the whole job having rear end already taken apart :-D

You have saved my day with this lesson thank you so much God bless you in Jesus mighty name amen

I want to thanak you for this perfectly explained video. I change rear axle on my Peugeot 206 sw with this video. All the best.

Excellent video. I need to do this on my 206. I got all the tools and bearings but I only had 4 hours to do it and I did not want to take risks. I use the car 7 days a week. The right side is worst than the left. The right wheel already has some camber. I will give it a go next week.

spot on video ...perfectly explained mate now got the confidence to attack it myself cheers

I want to thanak you for this perfectly explained video. I change rear axle on my Peugeot 206 sw with this video. All the best. 👌👍💪

Far too many experts on here. This lad did OK well done

Good video and after watching it I felt confident enough to tackle the job myself, on hinde sight I wished I never, although it's a good video, theirs a lot missing, main part Ben the removal of the torsion bar.

Well explained especially for DIY mechanics having limited tooling,thankyou.

Absolutely brilliant video everything pinpointed perfectly on how to do it your self. Thank you.

Great video, thanks for putting it online. I've got this very problem, I can easily manage that now I've seen how to do it. Thanks.

Brilliant! Explains how to do this very easily. A life saver. Not a difficult as people say by the look?

Awesome video. I enjoyed watching this. Thanks for the upload !

Best Vid i found about this! Thanks very much and greets from Deutschland

Perfectly done video tutorial ! Thank you !

Thank you for taking time to do this video very helpful indeed

This is only half of the job. yes the bearing are knackered but also the pin where bearing slides onto will be worn also and needs replacing

Excellent video, that will make my life easier, thanks.

How the heck did you remove the torsion bar I see you took it out one end and left it in the other side your working on. It's the only part you left out of this video it's not the worst job your right. But taking the torsion bar out are almost impossible on the deck. Please don't think am having a go what you did is great but need to know how you got the torsion bar of before I go and buy an axle

Hey mate, mine started to knocking in the rear passenger side but it is only when i hit big potholes. How long did you have it since it was really bad? Im not sure if this has to be done right now or can wait till some months. Thanks!

Brilliantly explained buddy, and much appreciated 🙂

God bless you, my friend I've been looking for this info a lot, I already subscribed to your channel.

Fan bloody tastic!!! About as crystal clear and simple to understand, follow and implement as a Haynes manual is none of these things🤣

GREAT SIMPLE VID VERY WELL DONE NOW I HAVE TO DO MY WIFES CAR????? THANK YOU AGAIN

brilliant video and a very good explained.....thank you

excellent job my man!,clearly put and boring bits sped up nicely...top job:0)

Hi, I am in the middle of doing this job but I am stuck because the driver side trailing arm will not come free from lower roll bar , I have removed the torq bolt and washer which was very very rusted in. I expected the trailing arm to come free from the splines of the roll bar but it won't. I notice in this video that the roll bar comes off with the trailing arm but I think mine is still connected at the other end . either way with the torq bolt and washer out the arm should hammer free from the roll bar shouldn't it ? Any comments appreciated Trevor

Hi , thanks for this I may have to do this very soon , got mot next saturday I have a noise on the same side, a recon axle is about £350 on ebay

Spot on video! A lot easier than i thought! Thanks a lot!

Thank you! Very well explained, that I'm starting to feel like a Pro.

you literally saved my life

you pick a lovely day to do it

Watched this, a Great how to . Thanks

A very good video, I would suggest using a powerful LED floodlight under the wing, esp. when it's sunny, as it's hard to see the details in the shade (your camera is automatically turning the exposure down) My o/s ARB bracket had snapped off completely near the 13mm bolt, as so the wheel was rubbing on the inside of the wheel arch! (rough roads)

so the negative camber of the wheel its caused buy the trailing arm bears ?? or the whole axle. ???

Brilliant, well explained and delivered.

I need to say, its perfect this tutorial, u saved my life! Ty so much.

great help, made the job easy to do with your vedio, thanks

Fabulous. Is this the same way in which you can lower the backend too, Just by changing which tooth the arms latch into?? I need to replace both my arms, I want to drop the back end a little too.

Awesome step by step guide😎

Fantastic, I just discovered the same problem on my 306 estate and the first thing I read online was some doom merchant insisting it wasn't a home job but needed a refurbished axle. Then I found your video and it's plain to see I will be able to do it myself. Thanks for your steady filming and clear advise, I've subscribed!

I try to remove, but the trailer won't come off. I don't know why.

great help using this video. help me loads. keep up the great work.

Can this be the cause of the rear wheels having negative camber?

Cheers mate big help took some stress of my mind anyway

I've tried to follow your steps on how to do the bushes but I can't get the bars out

Nice job . But are you sure that the main axle foley is intact ?? Imean . . . The backbone of this PSA rear axle is a big hollow tube and two smaller ones fitted to one side of that . How can you make sure its not bended or ....

It looked a bit daunting for me, but after watching this i think i might get the wife to do it.

🇨🇱📻👂🎧🎶👋🏻🦕🦖 Gracias Tengo el mismo problema ojalá pueda encontrar esos rodamientos Saludos desde chile No entiendo nada de tu idioma pero esta muy claro el video

Trailing arm stuck due to torsion bar stuck and gonna try with a jack hammer. Should I hammer on the torsion bar or on the trailing arm?

Cheers mate,thank you

What is the triangular rubber thing at the top of the thumbnail? I’m replacing back axle and the metal piece under the rubber thing has rusted and needs replacing.

Its same replacement parts for peugeot 206 2.0 HDI 66 kw 2001 ?

The shaft the trailing arm goes over must be replaced as well. When the bearings looks like that, the shaft will have grooves that causes the new bearings to fail again in no time.

Very helpful. Distance between lower arm and body before bush repair was 220mm but after it was 190mm, both sides. Will this be problematic, e.g. with four passengers?

Great video and something I've got to have a go at. Out of interest, how would you go about doing both sides at the same time? The car I'm working squeaks all the time from both sides?

Thanks for you video, exelente me ayudo muchisimo

nice video, have to change the bearings on my pug 206. Is it possible to remove/delete the middle stabilisator bar? will it have big impact on driving experience, cornering etc? I have seen used/repaired rear beams with removed middle stabilizator bar. How about swapping the needle bearings with self lubricating bronze or plastic bushes? especially the outside bearing, where the axle is usually also damaged.

Excellent vid, thanks.

Hi I can t get the plate of the antiroll bar off nor can I get the antirol bar tocome out from the other side what do I do am totoally stuck tried with levers etc

400 quid to replace the rear beam is a very good quote, especially as an Imaxle beam runs about 200 just for the part.

People say that replacing the bearings instead of the whole beam is more difficult and that you can find that the trailing arm bearing housing can also be worn. So is this true? as your video makes it look pretty straight forward.

Hi, great video. Do you know of any resources for removing disk brakes in the same manner you removed drum brake? I'd prefer not having to dismantle all the various parts of the brake and just take the whole thing off in one piece similar to how you did with drum brake. Do you know if that's possible?

how critical is that distance of 220 mm between trail arm and body? In my case it was 190mm . But noted that my damper life was very much reduced, with the dampers becoming 'frozen'. Could the 30mm difference be responsible?

when would you want to undertake this task? what symptoms would suggest this is needed?

The washer in a groove held in by a torx bolt so is it mandatory to get washer off to get torsion bar removed?

I´m looking for replacing the bearing for 206 rear drum brake wheel.

Ive put new bearing on mine but the trail arm stil moves up down lik springy and when driving is knocking the otherside is solid prob ceased on dos this mean the axel is worn be on repair ive hammerd it on as far as poss but stil moves

Does anyone no if this is the same for a Peugeot 206 cc with abs??

Hey again just a quik qusten. Will it make sounds if it's have snaped if it's a think?

Very nice video, thank you!

hi there im just about to replace my bushing but on my peugeot I have rear break calipers not drums are they as easy to take off as drums ?

You must replace the complete set with the bold and the bearing .!!!!!!!!!!!

Muito bem explicado! Está de parabéns! Me ajudou muito! 👍

You my friend are awesome, thanks for this video

Forget it unless your suspension has only just started knocking. Mine was well warn, the bearing had eaten into the axle shaft get a second hand one

hey ..great work...but I have a question..is this repairing way works for the second side (the left side) too. thx :-)

Absolutely dab tutorial, this is my next job so this video is fab, thanks .. I'm a little confused by having to measure the distance of the bar,I think you said it was 220 mm or something,is that because it fits on splines or something? It makes me think that I could get this bit wrong , I'll research anyway but this is a fab video thanks

Truly excellent DIY video. Now how does the brake backing plate come off the axel (10:27)? Just undoing the 4 Torx bolts or did you use a 3-arm puller? Cheers.

thanks, helped massively

Amazing video....well done

How much time did you spent on this? btw great video :)

will do cheers mate thank you good video.

Great video , wondering if it's the same as the citroen xsara n1 ?

amazing video!thank you my friend!

what size drift do you need to tap the outer bearing in i see you used a 38mm socket, whats the outside diameter informative vid btw

thanks soo much for this video, iv subed as its great quality

A good video, however I do a fair number of these in my job as a mechanic and if the bearings have been worn for ages very often the tube that the bearings fit over will be worn as well, sometimes just fitting bearings will not cure the problem unfortunately. but worth the try and as I said a good video.

Which is easier, replacing the axle beam or axle bearings independantly?

Just out of interest, what state was the beam pin in? Got this job to do for next test and it's been said that if the pin is in bad condition that'll need pressing out with a 60 tonne press? Don't mind the arm bearings but don't fancy the hassle of pressing pins out etc!

Did this job last week. No garage would touch it. A recon axle was £200 so bought the bearings and got stuck in. It didn't go to plan. Took about 12 hrs to do. The main problem was that my bearings hadn't collapsed. They had seized then tightened onto the shaft. Car cornered great as it basically had no rear suspension. It took hours of heating hammering using pullers etc to get one axle off the other one was not as bad and came off with less sweat. The stupid washer in a groove held in by a torx bolt idea is an absolute nightmare at the end of the torsion bars. One bolt never came out in the end. Never mind all done now but at one point I almost gave up and just set the car on fire !!

Hi can you do both sides at the same time ?

doing mine in the next week or two

Going to try this on a Citroen Xsara tomorrow. N/S RHD. Will let you know how I get on.

Is it the same for both sides

Thax for the nice vid

Would this just be the same for a 306