As usual, tools and parts necessary listed in video. If you like my videos please subscribe, give me a thumbs up, and share with your friends and family! Thanks for watching, aloha!
Thank you for this video. I had my car in the shop, and they fixed the heater core. Cause my car was running hot. I get it back, and can still smell coolant. Then I find out when I fill up the coolant its leaking out. So... my natural next guess is a radiator leak
@@someguysfishing Those are the transmission cooler lines into and out of the radiator. "TRANSMISSION cooler lines". Can you figure out what flows through them, motor oil or transmission fluid? Take your time......
@@RoysGarage808 Yeah, on my other cars after draining & replacing fluid from the transmission pan I disconnect the return line, hook up my own clear hose to a bucket, then start the car & drain out 2 quarts at a time (then stop car, replace fluid etc) until all the fluid comes out new. I have an '06 that looks just like this and can see a trans connection on the drivers and passenger side - presumably one is the hot supply line coming from the trans, and the other is the cool fluid going out to return to the transmission. Not sure which is which.
Garen I’m not 100% if the ‘04 & ‘06 are the same but they’re all generally have the same basic concept. Usually if I don’t know which side is which, I disconnect both hoses and put them in a pan and start up the car to see which side the fluid comes out. If you’ve already drained the whole system, you can add fluid then start it up and continuously & quickly add fluid as the vehicle is running and see which side the fluid drains; you can keep doing this until you see that the fluid is clean and reconnect everything and top it off. Just for reference, I go through roughly 14qt. of transmission oil on a average transmission servicing.
@@RoysGarage808 I finally got around to doing that this weekend. I found that the supply line is on the passenger side, and it returns out the drivers side nipple. To replace the fluid I first drained it from the drain bolt, which got out about 4-quarts/1-gallon, then re-filled with new fluid via dipstuck tube. Then I hooked up some clear pvc tubing to the drivers side nipple and clamped it into my catch pan that I dragged all the way next to the drivers side door. Then I started up the car and watched the fluid drain into the pan until it changed color, then stopped - this ended up draining about another 4-quarts/1-gallon. I used old empty milk jugs that I manually marked with 1,2,3,4 quart marks, and filled up with old fluid from my catch pan - then poured new fluid into an identical clean container to the same level to be sure I was replacing exactly what I took out. Anyway, thanks for making this video - I was able to see fairly easily how to remove the plastic shroud and get at the return line by watching what you did here.
That’s a tough question to answer, there’s no general manufacturer specs on how much to fill and difficult to explain. What I would do if I didn’t have the airlift tool is fill it up with antifreeze until it’s full, and with the radiator cap off run the vehicle through the heat cycle (the fan turns on) 3-4 times, fill it up again, and repeat until it’s fully full. I will tell you in advance it will take a really long time, and it’ll be a little difficult. The coolant recovery tank has a min/max amount your put in so that’s that. I hope that helps and if you got any more questions, just let me know.
Note that Nissan specifically calls out for the coolant refill to be performed on this vehicle using a vacuum filling tool, like the AirLift, in order to assure that as much air is evacuated from the cooling system as possible. Some vehicles can be very difficult to evacuate air from without such a tool. Short of that, if you are going to try and manually bleed the air without such a tool (not recommended) I would probably use a Lisle spill-free funnel kit. They are affordable and can be found on Amazon.
Wow, you sure are an asshole. Too bad you don't have the brains to figure out that the bolt diameter and thread pitch will likely be different for radiators manufactured by different companies. The first time I encountered this, I figured it out using a thread pitch gauge in about 5 minutes. Too bad you don't have the skill to do the same, so you resort to insulting this guy and his video. I could tell you what the bolt diameter and thread pitch is for the two fan assembky mounting nuts for the Denso 221-3405 radiator, one of the most popular replacements, since I have installed dozens of them in B15 Sentras. But I won't. Because an asshole's time is absolutely worthless. I'd rather see you struggle.
