Good video, yes 95ft lbs on my 2010 dodge charger as well. Had clunking too but I would replace the sway bar bushings first if you got slight clunking…. Then I did my inner and outter tie rods which was my main problem …. Lastly I did my sway bar end links to complete the front end suspension. Lower and upper ball joints are needed to be replaced but waiting a little longer on that since I gotta take everything off lol😂 good accurate video !
I have a 2014 2wd Chrysler 300 I don’t have a jack or lift I do have ramps I used for oil changes is there tension on the sway bar links or can I replace the links with the car just being on the ramps?
Word to the wise. Don’t order cheap parts. I bought amazon parts to do this job, but I knew eventually I’ll have to replace it with oem or better quality sway bar links. After 4 months and retightening the nuts (they loosen overtime if you don’t retorque them after 500 miles) I figure I’d get Quality sway bar links. I purchased duralast from autozone and this could be done without removing the tire. I used lots of loc tight this tight so the nut wouldn’t loosen because not sure why they would become loose overtime . But anytime you work on suspension I believe after 500-1000 miles, you should retorque all the suspension parts you replaced/fixed.
@@AutoTechWorld_DIYlol I’m not skinny and I weigh about 250 lol😂 I did this job 3 times already using cheap Amazon parts, but 4th time, I use auto zone duralast parts and lots of Loc Tight due to but becoming loose on the last ones, and I raised the car enough so I wouldn’t have to take the tire off lol😂😂😂 And my car is lower then the 300, I did this on my dodge charger 😂
Oh no. See if there is warranty and then do the new ones to 50 ft lbs or where you feel it's tight enough. 95 is what the computer said. Better humane then lawful. 😉
