That happened to me last week. I bought a new wheel as the man at my local Cycle repair shop did not have an axle to replace mine with moreover, as my bike was old it is very difficult to get parts for it. Yesterday when i called in for some new brake shoes , he told me he had found a reconditioned one in his junk-bucket , he had cleaned it up for me and gave it to me for £1 ! ( just over $1 !) ......now i have a spare wheel ! Thanks for sharing and your instructions were very clear. Regards.......Abe ( uk )
Awesome! Axles can sometimes be hard to find, and I'm sure the pandemic has only made that worse. Local bike shops are the best for doing those kinds of things!
Thanks for your answer man So what you are saying is that if the spokes are all the same size the tension must be greater on one side.. I replaced a broken hub on my rear wheel and just can't get it to fit the cassette anymore.. And yes.. I did screw in every spoke trying to get even tension and the wheel is close to perfectly fair..
Great instructional video, I have just broken my own rear axle in exactly the same place you did. Just one development point: Your interject on your own instructional flow with liberal use of "You know" and "Sort a". Confidence is good! Don't worry if you're afraid you may be stating the obvious or something, just go with it. Thanks for the upload, one of the brighter uses for home made video! : )
Yes, to get the rim centered, you will have to tighten all of the spokes on the driveside, and loosen all of the spokes on the non-drive side. Also, make sure that you have the right number of spacers on the axle on each side of the hub. There should be much more space on the driveside.
do you know of a video that will show the conversion of the threaded axle to a quick release ? what parts or kit would I need , as I want to get rid of the the nuts and go with quick release. thanks
Very very well done!! Replacing the nut and the dust (the penultimate event) needs to be slowed down a little: but I do understand that you've likely covered in the wheel bearing section.
In some cases it is necessary to remove the cassette. It really just depends on the specific wheel that you have and whether there is enough clearance inside the cassette for the cones to fit through. In my case, after the axle broke, both pieces just came out right away, so I knew I didn't need to remove the cassette. If you have the ability to remove your cassette, it really doesn't hurt to take it off, because it allows you to clean out the cup and put in new grease while you are in there.
Good question. Rear wheels are built differently than front wheels. The wheels are built with the hub not centered in the middle of the axle to allow for the space of a cassette. They are able to keep the rim centered relative to the axle however by making the spokes on the drive-side of the wheel shorter than the other side. This is really only something that you need to worry about if you are building a wheel. If it's a back wheel, the cassette should just fit.
To be honest, although I've done lots of work on both quick release and regular axles, I've never strictly done a conversion between them. However, I'm confident that it is very easy to do. A quick release axle is exactly the same as a regular axle except for two small differences: A quick release axle is shorter and it has a hole through the middle. Knowing this, all you need to do it transfer all of the hardware from one axle to the other and position it so the axle is centered.
Usually QR axels have a slightly different threading and/or diameter then regular axels. So usually you cannot transfer the hardware from one to another.
Can I replace my 3/8" x 179mm axle with a bigger diameter (11mm) and longer (200mm) axle? Provided the cones, lock-nuts and spacer are changed to suitable size for the 11mm. Except for the cups and hubs are left untouched. For your advice, please.
If the cone is damaged, yes it's possible you might hear a ticking sound coming from the wheel hearing when the bike is moving. However, the main way that you would know is just that the wheel won't turn very freely. Have you watched my wheel bearing video? That stuff is better explained there than it is here.
when installing the wheel back onto the frame, is there a way to ensure the wheel is mounted straight? Unlike newer bikes with quick release/rear dropouts you can just put axle all the way in. But it seems like these older bikes with a solid axle and forward dropouts I have to find a sweet spot??
Hey man, good, simple vid there. I've got to do this exact job tomorrow on a hybrid bike and I have a couple of spare axles, but I can't remember if I took them from mtb wheels or 700c wheels...is there a difference between low end mtb or 700c axles? Guess I could Google it but it might be useful to people watching this vid with the same query if someone explains it right here! Obviously I need to find the same width and as close to the same length as possible. And how do you get BOTH cones off?
I'm not aware of a video that will show you this procedure, I have not made one myself. The only part that you need is the quick release axle itself, which should also come with the quick release skewer and nut. The procedure should be pretty straight forward, it's basically the same as what I have shown in this video, except the quick release axle has a hole through the middle and is shorter. Just make sure all the hardware is centered on it like I showed in this video.
cjhoyle my rear axle bar is push too for the the left from tightened my bearings case because my wheel was shacking too much but idk how to move the axle to the other side so it would be even so my wheel can fit on my bike with touching the frame
I am a regular viewer of your videos and they have been very helpful to me since I started commuting by bicycle. I first saw your video while trying to fix a slanting rear v-brake. After several adjustment and even replacing the brake pads since they were worn off, I still couldn't get it right. Finally I took it to a lbs after I had a puncture and they identified a bent axle. It was quick release type and they did not have a suitable spare. After a week I took it to a different smaller shop and they said they had a spare and sought of hammered the bent axle out with a spanner. They then told me that it was different to the one they had and said they would have to replace the axle with a threaded type. I did not have any option then and they installed a threaded type axle. Is this alright or am I doing it wrong. The cycle seems to ride fine for now although I had a puncture on the way back. It might be unrelated but I just replaced the tube again. Please excuse my longish post and it would be helpful if you can offer any suggestion in this regard. PS my cycle is a Nishiki (not the older type when the brand seemed to be more desirable). It is green and looks a lot like your bike :-) thanks and regards.
A solid threaded axle should be compatible with any bike which previously had a quick release axle. The only difference is convenience. Also, I can't see any way that an axle replacement could be responsible for causing a puncture. Must have just been an unlucky coincidence.
@cjhoyle Thanks a ton, that was prompt :-) you will not believe how relieved I am to hear that things seem fine for now. You just got a new subscriber :-)
This is a video that quite a few people have requested. I need to do this myself for my current commuting bike. Hopefully I can get around to making this video soon.
Thieves will still steal your wheels with a nut axle. I suggest you get a pair of security skewers, they work the same as your quick release, but instead of a lever at the end is a socket for a specially shaped allen key. It is alot harder to steal as you would need a different key for every brand of security skewer. Where as anyone can carry a wrench around. This is the set I have www.ebay.com.au/itm/Rockbros-Anti-Theft-Skewers-Road-Bike-MTB-Black-Wheels-Seats-Locking-Security-/151377026452?pt=AU_Sport_Cycling_Parts&hash=item233ec61d94 Had them on my bike for 3 years, leaving my bike infront of my job for hours on end. I have had people intentionally puncture my tires, but never steal my wheels.
From my experience, rear axles on mountain bikes are all the same diameter, but the lengths of them vary slightly. If you don't happen to have a spare axle of a similar length laying around like I did, my advice is to ask for one at your local bike shop. Just measure the length of the axle you need, and they should be able to find you one that will work. Let me know if this helps.
Yea, I live by the same philosophy. If you're going to lock your bike up somewhere, you don't want it to be something that anyone will want to steal...no matter what lock you buy. Sure I have higher end bikes, but for commuting and running errands I just want something that is cheap and simple, the common components. The only reason anyone would ever want to steal one of my commuting bikes is if they desperately needed it to get somewhere...because after-all, I do keep them very well maintained!
hello I found your video to bring some clarity to my confusion. I was wondering if you could do a quick vid on how would you change your bike's standard axle to the quick release.Is it just that simple? I just gotta see it done. That is the way i get it. thanks for posting.
Hi. So sorry I do not know how to address you. My name is Derek, and I'm a Canadian who lives in Laos located in Southeast Asia. I liked your (9 year old) video: How to replace a wheel axle on a bike and love all your bike related videos. I wish that I could command your presence for just a few hours, but my teleportation device has malfunction recently! Where to begin. For the last year, the wheel axel of my 2011 Specialized Sirrus Elite 700c masterwheel with 32 spoke holes has been loose. I delayed repairs for so long as I have no one around who has knowledge about bikes. A couple of days ago without measuring (despite what you recommended) or paying attention to any dimensions at all (I hadn't viewed your video yet), I foolishly dismantle the entire rear tire axel to tighten the axel and then decided it might be a good time to clean up and grease bearings as well. Now, I'm unable to correctly reinstall it, especially after a dust cap dropped off when I wasn't paying attention. I've searched RU-vid thoroughly and cannot find any schematics or a video with a similar type wheel axle and hardware, demonstrating step-by-step reassembly. There are no bicycle shops to assist me here in remote northern Laos. Especially during covid lockdown, when cycling is one of the only pleasures I am afforded. Is there any way you can assist either by providing a schematics diagram of a standard masterwheel axel or by lending personal advice. I would greatly appreciate any assistance you may offer. Hope to hear from you soon. Best regards, Derek. 🙂 P.S. sorry that I must use one of your videos as a platform to communicate. You don't happen to use WhatsApp or Messenger do you?
Hi Derek, there isn't exactly a standard that I'm aware of. Most wheels that I've worked on are a little bit different from one another. If you can email me a photo of all the hardware that you took off your wheel, I can do my best to guess what order they go together. My email address is on the About page of my RU-vid channel.
+Charlie Fowler Unfortunately since making this video I discovered that some bikes use axles which have slightly different diameters and thread patterns. This means that the axle hardware (cones, locknuts, and spacers) aren't always interchangeable. You should be fine to switch to a different diameter of axles, but just keep in mind that your existing axle hardware will not fit, so you'll need to replace that as well.
Do you have a video that shows how to covert over from a solid axle to a quick release axle? My new quick release skewer is much thinner than the original axle that's on my old 10 speed bike.
+DougFLA123 Unfortunately I had a similar discovery the one time that I attempted to convert between a quick release and non-quick release axle. Prior to that I was under the impression that all axles had the same standard diameter and thread pitch. That doesn't mean that you can't convert between them easily, it just means that you can't reuse your old cones and lock-nuts on the new axles, you need to find cones and lock-nuts which fit on your new axle.
You've probably go this sorted by now, but to help others in the same situation, a quick release axle consists of two parts - a quick release skewer, which is what you're referring to, AND a replacement axle which is hollow - it has a tube down the centre into which the QR skewer fits. The axle should be the same diameter and thread, but shorter than the solid axle it's replacing. That's because you don't need the axle to protrude beyond the frame of the bike as you're not securing it with a nut at each end. You fit the bearings, cones and spacers exactly as for a solid axle, and then you push the QR skewer (with springs) through the centre tube in the axle. You tighten the skewer to secure the wheel to the frame.
hey man hope u can give me some advice on this i'm really struggling for a few days and you seem to know your stuff. Q: How do you manage to fit the cassette on one side of the wheel and still keep the wheel centered on the frame? Hope you don't find my question stupid THUMBS UP :D
Unfortunately it's impossible to make an instructional video that will appeal to everyone that watches. There will always be a differing amount of knowledge on the subject. But with 94% likes on this video, I think I'm at least targeting the core audience. Thanks for watching.
you missed just the waterproof cap reposition, the very detail I came to your vid for.... what a shame, it seems to get stuck, I dont get if it's supossed to rotate or get fixed...
Good Video. I just bought a new Mountain bike Schwinn but it only came with a quick release for the front. Can I convert my rear wheel to a quick release? Thanks.
To be honest, although I've done lots of work on both quick release and regular axles, I've never strictly done a conversion between them. However, I'm confident that it is very easy to do. A quick release axle is exactly the same as a regular axle except for two small differences: A quick release axle is shorter and it has a hole through the middle. Knowing this, all you need to do it transfer all of the hardware from one axle to the other and position it so the axle is centered.
Hi! The screws of my rare axle are in a really bad condition, so I would like to change the axle. How ever, the axle is 15mm and I don't seem to find the exact size anywhere. Does it matter if I replace it with a 14 or 13mm one? Thanks for the video!
Most bikes use a standard thread pattern, so they are very interchangeable. However, they are available in different lengths, so you want to make sure that you get one which is approximately the same length as your old one.
No. Just a cone wrench and an adjustable wrench. The full instructions of how to perform that task is in my video: How to Rebuild and Repair a Wheel Bearing on a Bicycle
I took my rear gears off and installed a singke speed cog but i took out the axle and i put back properly and tight but ehen i. Try too tighten it to the frame it turn Can yiu help me
There are some many possible things on a bike that could be causing a clicking noise. If you know that the clicking noise is coming from your hub/axle, then my "How to Rebuild and Repair a Wheel Bearing on a Bicycle" is what you're looking for.
To be honest, although I've done lots of work on both quick release and regular axles, I've never done a direct conversion between them. However, I'm confident that it is very easy to do. A quick release axle is exactly the same as a regular axle except for two small differences: A quick release axle is shorter and it has a hole through the middle. Knowing this, all you need to do it transfer all of the hardware from one axle to the other and position it so the axle is centered. Let me know if this helps.
i think i need to oil my wheel bearings as well, to do that do i HAVE to take the cassettes off, or can i change wheel bearing without taking cassette?
In most occasions, removing the cassette is necessary. Alot of cones have a thin metal ring which is pressed onto the outside of them which is used to cover up the inside of the bearings and block dust or dirt from getting inside. However these metal rings make the overall diameter of the cone significantly larger which makes it too large to be pulled through the cassette. In the situation in this video, my cone did not have one of these rings, so it was possible to skip that step.
i have a bent axle but when my rear wheel is rotating you wont notice a thing so until now im still using a bent axle because i just changed it and the same day it bent again i probably tighten the quick-release too much haha
Based on your description, it could be either. Probably the easiest way to tell for certain that it's broken is to just simply take the wheel off the bike. If the axle is broken it will fall apart as it did in my demonstration here. If it turns out that the wheel is untrue, I have a video explaining how to fix that too. Let me know if this helps. Thanks!
I bought a used mountain bike and it has two cylindrical tubes attached to the rear axel. They are 4 1/2” long and an 1 1/2” in diameter. Can you tell me what these are and what the purpose is? I tried to upload an image of it but it wouldn’t let me. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you!
Thank you so much for this video of it is definitely helping my situation and with all this Corona stuff going on I was wondering if axle shafts in the back wheel on mountain bikes I have a mongoose and it broke the axle shaft and I have a different one off of one that has a derailleur gear on it anyway I put an engine on there took it for a ride three times then the axle shaft broke but this is a wide tire Mongoose mountain bike my question to you can I use an axle shaft from another mountain bike it has the gears with the derailleur because mine does not have that please answer the question appreciate it thank you thumbs up
In terms of compatibility, what matters is the length and thread pattern. As long as your replacement axle is long enough and has the same threads as the one you're replacing, it should be compatible.
Hey. I got a bike and i was taking the front tire off to air it up. When i got it. The front wheel fitted perfectly but now it wont fit. When i tried to put it on, The nut to the axle was in the way of the fork and it wouldnt fit. What can i do?
For future reference, you don't need to remove the wheel to put air into it. With the problem that you're described, it's most likely that the fork spacing is just slightly more narrow than your wheel is. This is not something you would have noticed when removing the wheel. You should be able to force the wheel back onto the forks by spreading the forks apart slightly.
I've fixing my spindle in exactly the same way as you did here, I have ordered a new spindle of eBay. I noticed in the wheel bearing video that you said you had to remove the rear cassette, but in this video you don't appear to do that. Could you please explain?
In most occasions, removing the cassette is necessary. Alot of cones have a thin metal ring which is pressed onto the outside of them which is used to cover up the inside of the bearings and block dust or dirt from getting inside. However these metal rings make the overall diameter of the cone significantly larger which makes it too large to be pulled through the cassette. In the situation in this video, my cone did not have one of these rings, so it was possible to skip that step.
cjhoyle Thanks for the response, I will check mine out, I suspect it doesn't have a ring either as there was loads of water and gunk in there with the wheel bearings. I'm just trying to figure out if I need to buy any other tools like the FR-5 freewheel remover ( I just realised from another video that I have a freewheel not a cassette).
Turns out I do have a ring, but luckily the cone fits through it so I don't need to remove the freewheel which also explains why it doesn't do a very good job of stopping the dirt. Thank you for your help.
I've taken apart a few axles before, but always struggle taking off the last cone (which is usually pretty tight) since the axle is cylindrical and I have nothing to stabilise it. Any advice? Cheers :)
Separating the final locknut and cone can be tricky indeed! It's especially tricky because cone wrenches are so thin and unstable. If you are able to fit an adjustable wrench in to grip the cone, that definitely helps. Failing that, you can always put the locknut in a vice to stablize it and spin the cone off with the locknut fixed in position.
great video. thank you. i'm trying to use some wheels from a different bike on my new (old) frame. the dropouts are narrower on this bike. instead of cold-setting/bending the frame can i change the axles?
Well changing the axles won't help you, but depending on how much of a sizing difference it is, you might be able to make it work by rearranging some of the spacers on the axle. Does the wheel you are trying to make narrower have very much extra space on the drive side between the smallest chain ring and the locknut? If so, you could take your axle apart, and put a smaller spacer in that will effectively move your locknut closer to your smallest chainring. If you do that though, make sure you also change to a smaller spacer on the non-drive size so that you will keep the wheel centred.
cjhoyle great thanks. i've tried taking one spacer of the non-drive side, it's the perfect width, however, the tyre now rubs against the frame. perhaps i change the spacers on both sides? thanks ever so much.
The wheel nuts usually use 15mm. The lock-nuts are often 17mm. The cones vary from one bike to another but the most common in my experience is 15mm. The cones require a special 'cone wrench' which is narrower than a standard wrench.
It sounds like you have your cones adjusted too tight. Please refer to my video titled "How to Rebuild and Repair a Wheel Bearing on a Bicycle" for understanding how to set them correctly.
I don't think the spacing and stuff matters for me cause I ordered it with the hardware 2 star review though you chatted a lot but did go step by step or get the the point however you did cover the main parts
+Manuel Perez It's a ratchet handle with a 15mm hex socket. I have a video titled "How to Remove the Rear Wheel of a Bicycle" which shows all the different options for doing this.
Check the alignment. It could just be that one of the nuts has come loose and the wheel is rubbing against a side arm. Its the same symptom you get when the axle gets bent or has already snapped. The first is easier to fix the second is what this video is all about.
TheAltoGamer Your local bike shop should have them, or at least be able to order one. Bring in the broken one to show them exactly what you need. They're usually $10 or less.
Sometimes you can get away with removing the axle without first removing the freewheel. It depends whether or not the drive-side cone has seal on it or not. Another challenge with not removing the freewheel is that it's very hard to clean the drive-side cup and apply new grease.
Please refer to my video titled "How to Rebuild and Repair a Wheel Bearing on a Bicycle". That will show you how to take the bearing apart, clean everything, and re-install so that it won't be too tight or too loose. Please let me know if this doesn't teach you what you need to know.
This video is WHY bikes are not made with freewheels anymore. Cassette hubs were invented to overcome bent and broken axles. Most people are not riding a dinosaur bike one that was made over 20 years ago. All modern bike hubs are made with cassette hubs. As for the front axle I don't know too many people that bend or break a front axle. Also why THROUGH AXLES were invented to overcome front axle breakage either 15 or 20 mm through axle fronts are standard on high end mountain bikes.
Added security tip. Write on a piece of blue or red duct tape your name and info and tape to the inside of your tire, if you get it stolen and find the thief with it and sometimes a cop is available to witness this arguement of who's bike it is. You have info about the bike that only you know & where it's located, inside the tire, deflate and there's the the facts.
Bending can happen too, but if you regularly carry lots of weight on a rear cargo rack, the axle will actually break. I've broken 7 or 8 axles over the last 5 years.
A lot more people depend on using a bike to get around but do not have enough cash to purchase a high-end bike with modern cassette and hubs. If my bike gets stolen I'm out $100 and not $300.
This is something that I mentioned in a video I made about bike locks. There are these things called security skewers which can be installed in place of the regular quick release skewer to make the wheels much harder to remove.
