How to Replace All Engine Vacuum Lines | 95 Ford F150 

Jesse, as someone who spent years doing frame off restoration on an Obs , I fully appreciate all u have done for obs community. I know there is so much info that has to be researched and pieced together to have the info you share. Because of the videos you make, you fast track so much for so many. Awesome job.. Thanks for all you have done and do!

Hey Steve just wanted to let you know that I followed your video and started the vacuum lines and already noticed a big difference in the engine performance, while replacing lines I fixed my HVAC default problem and now the dash control works, thanks again for the video I’ll keep you posted when the rest of the lines are replaced keep up with the videos they’re a big help

Man, this video would've saved me hours when I had to replace all the lines a previous owner removed with just my hood sticker as a reference... Best vac line video out there.

Just spent $300 for engine diagnostics and labor, mechanics accurately determined I needed to replace main vacuum harness on my 2001 Ford F-150 4.2 six cylinder. Engine was running with a rough idle, shutting down and/or stalling at traffic lights. OBD scanners I used at auto parts stores was giving conflicting readouts, saying lean idle and misfiring spark plugs but that basically was due to existing vacuum leaks. I first replaced IAC sensor and ignition coil pack before I took it to the shop. Probably could have avoided that but those are fairly easy to R&R. Truck runs like new after the shop work was completed. Diagnostic from an experienced mechanic and an established repair shop was showing scanner codes PO171, PO174. That will indicate excessive air from a vacuum leak. So IMHO it sometimes will be the best choice to take it to a experienced shop rather than throwing money at replacement parts based soley on scanner codes.

Man this video came in clutch. Have had my 92 F150 5.0 for about 2-3 months now and recently resealed the top end (expect for head gaskets) and all those form fitted vacuum lines broke just from the desert heat and with this knowledge I play on trying to hide everything a lot more for a cleaner engine bay.

You were a saint for filming all of this. Thank you. And thank you for the links

I'm only 22, and I bought a 94 f150 and looked under the hood. I straight up thought this guy put a coffee can in my truck as some hill billy mod 😂😂

Pure gold info here. I broke a few testing, my egr valve and sensor.

Thank you 95 f150 extended cab XLT Eddie Bauer 59,878 original miles. OH my hometown is Westchester, PA

I need to do this on my '88 F-150, thanks for the video as a reminder.

I just bought an 95 Eddie Bauer Edition F-150 Supercab that the previous owner removed the vacuum lines. He said it is causing a hesitation sometimes in the throttle. So I will look into replacing all those lines ASAP. I need the truck reliable for longer distance driving. I have not had a chance to drive very far with yet to see what other issues will pop up. Had a new PA Inspection on it when I bought so maybe all is good.

Same truck completely rebuilt my motor bored 30 over big cam dual exhaust deleted all that vacuum crap and ran my own and works like a charm got great heat breaks work fine and I got room for stuff with that vacuum canister gone

Great video didn't know what that can was till now lol new obs owner

Your shared work and efforts are greatly appreciated! I have the same problem with my 96 F150. Very grateful for your uploads on the subject! Thank you! However if I were to share information on a network, I'd make sure not to inadvertently share my home address (on the slip package). Looking forward to see more of your awesome work! Good day!

Found that you can use a Plastic version of the Vacuum Reservoir. Part # 4C3Z-9E453-AA I have read in several places that it does work and the bolt holes line up.

Brake line works great in hot areas

very good call on using the wrong line will collapse very true...

Hey From south jersey area, I just bought a 92 bronco from my neighbor, been sitting for ten years. Got it home put new gas and battery in it and started right up. But it's idling at like 2500 3000 rpm. I noticed the charcoal canister just sitting under the hood. Haven't had much time to look at it I'm hoping that is just the problem. Lol well see

Another great video Jesse

Do you ever notice rainwater entering the engine compartment on both sides of the truck? On the right flooding the actuator valve for the defrost and gets the whole heater blower wet, and on the left side it just runs down the firewall straight onto the computer? Seems like that little guard they have on the firewall is short on both ends and it just lets rainwater pour straight down your firewall.

Vacuum lines are something I wish was never invented, as I prefer electrical lines for signalling, but alas that's what we have to deal with. Great video. Thanks for posting. What's up with the different location today?

Thanks for posting this man it helped immensely!

I replaced my vacuum canister with one that I got off a Ford ranger. The ranger one is plastic and shaped like a ball and it can be bolted to the inner fender in place of the original. It won't rust like the original style metal one.

Hey man the vaccum line at 5:18 with the blue line where does it go cause mine vroke i cant seem to find it i know there 2 the one that goes to the litle vacum box but the second one i cant find it

Do you know where I can find a diagram? I have a 95 so it’s MAF, but all the diagrams I see have map sensors.

Did the lines collapse at all? I’m about to use the website instead of local parts store.

Hey man I just bought a 1989 ford f150 and also live in Philly. Would love to link up sometime if you’re interested. I’m also restoring it with/for my 17yo son. He didn’t know yet! I’m having stalling issues right now someone said a vacuum leak so going to replace all the lines like you did.

ive got one betyer then that,take metal brake line and bend it to the exact shape you want,cut it to length.paint it.slide it inside the rubber boot ends,you are done with your vaccum likes forever,they will never crack or lrak again,and cannot colapse.

I can’t find that vacuum canister ANYWHERE. Any help greatly appreciated?!

hello question on the list you have put down 4mm BUT you keep saying 5mm? I am about to make an order but want to make sure, thank you for your time and good videos..

Can you show me where the smog pump converter goes on a 1991 f-150 5.0 ????

1990 F150 straight 6. Are all my vac lines the same hose size? Can I just buy a bunch of hose and replace line by line so I know where they all go?

I thought that was the purge valve solenoid? Did you say it was a idle position sensor?

What’s that box under the first ac line you changed

I’d love to see a video like this for a 1990 f250 351w. That’s what I have and it was a mess under the H.O. from people doing things the wrong way. There is so much mom to the vacuum and evaporator system than there is on trucks after 1990. I have looked all over RU-vid and have only seen one or two videos with the same set up as my truck. Especially on the drivers side where the egr control solenoid area is. It’s rediculous. And I know there is still things wrong because my truck just dumps fuel in just from cranking the engine and floods it. Think I have some leaking injectors too

Anyone know where I can get a vacuum canister that will fit into a Ford F 150. I can't find one anywhere. The links provided does not have it available. Thanks,

I'm in the process of doing this now. I replaced a section already to the charcoal cannister - seems to have made a little difference already. I'll have to go around and check all the other areas for cracked vac lines. After that fixing a bucking problem I have. Either fuel/air related or electrical. I replaced the EGR - no difference, replaced the fuel filter, small improvement, replaced Spark Plug wires huge improvement but still bucks and lags and sometimes dies under load. Next is to check for more air leaks, check distributor, modify the EGR and check the cat. Have you run into any of these issues? Thanks

This amount work for F250 5.8L?? Trying to figurte out what i need and how much

Can’t get that vacuum canister anymore. The plastic newer ones are all gone from the junk yards too

my 1992 f150 5.0 has a little bit of a fast idle and hard shifting in transmission. it’s cat/emissions deleted what do you think it could be? i replaced throttle position sensor it helped a little but could it be the map sensor? it also has some vacuum lines and coffee can disconnected.

Can you make a video on how to delete all the emissions crap on these trucks?

great video... but i cant find the can anywhere online.

What are the lines that run behind the block that you didn’t do for?

looks like mayfair 🤘🏻

i built a smoke machine to find the vacuum leaks in my 1988 5.8L f250. i found leaks i didnt know i had and repaired them all. there was one leak i couldnt figure out how to fix. it was leaking out of the bottom where the throttle position sensor was on the throttle body. while i was replacing the thermostat i figured out how to seal that throttle body leak at the TPS.. i took the throttle body off and removed the TPS. i sprayed the cavity out with carb cleaner. then used q-tips to wipe it out. then i cut the end off of a q-tip and dabbed RTV around the bearing and the case of the throttle body and around the rod and bearing. i put enought to the outer and inner races of the bearing, then took other q-tips ( with the cotton on it ) and wiped around the shaft and outer race to where there was enough left to fill in around the outer race of bearing and the throttle body case and the rod and inner race of the bearing and let it set up over nite. it sealed that leak up just fine. that little whistle was gone and the iac didnt open and close so much out of the normal function. for faster results you can use the 90 minute RTV and let it set up for 2 or 3 hours then reassemble . hope this helps anyone trying to find that one vacuum leak thats hiding from you. sorry this was so long

Thanks for the video, all of them. Where did you purchase those battery cables?

Hey bro love your channel. I have a 1995 F150 myself and have done a lot of work on it. I’m in Jersey and I see you in Philly. Love for you to check out my truck.

Hey man i just the vacuum thing but does it matter where i plug the the main hose’s? The new one has one connection that says vac and that’s it, and the original one has letters on both connections

AWESOME AS USUAL!

Where did you find the canister?

where did you find the vacuum reservoir?

What are the hose and can next to the coffee can? And what does it do ?

Do you know the sizes of the lines in this kit

LETS GO BRANDEN

Do you have part numbers on those battery terminals?

The last time I eat pinto beans I got a case of the shits

How much did all that cost?

0:32-0:40 you called the part a "vacuum actuated door" is That what it is actually called cause in the winter to get heat im using zip ties. To hold t down for heat and on summer no zip to get A/C so lol i'm on the. Hunt for a replacement but so I've been to AutoZone and Advance Auto Parts both didn't know what it was called and couldn't find it SO IF ANYONE. KNOWS THE NAME. OF THIS PART PLEASE LMK

That surprises me, that you are in business for yourself and you don't have a junk screw, bolt, nut can..

what size vacuum line did you order from them?

I had a real hard time hearing you this time normally I don't have a problem hearing you.

I can’t find that stupid freaking can anywhere lol

I thought that was an old can of beans someone left to cook on the manifold

I got my 96 f150 5.0 302 and it had been sitting in a garadge for at least 10 yrs and only has 130000 miles on it. It stood out to me because the body is in great shape no rust only minor paint scratches but after watching all these vids my engine and accessories look 10 times better than anything ive seen on here.

Great video, wanted to add one note. Later in the OBS years ford changed the soup can vacuum canister to a plastic vacuum tank. I see them at junkyards alot. They are a direct drop in for the old rusty can, they look nicer and will never rust. Mine cost 2 dollars at the local jy. Goes great with new vacuum lines.

I love watching your videos but have you ever consider making a video on how to clean your engine bay

I modify 1lb. propane cylinders. Vent them, drill holes in the center and shrader valve holes. Braze or solder short lengths of brake line tubing.

Did you ever find a better fitting hose size for the actuator line? I'm genuinely curious. I plan on getting my AC fixed on my 95 5.0 and that hose has a few pinholes in it

Great video! Do you know where that one line connected to the T fitting on the passenger side goes to? All 3 are black and the other two seem to go to the blower motor and through the firewall. The 3rd (that looks like you routed up and over the engine) seems to be hiding on my truck

I'm new to you site and needed to know how the start from scratch with the vacuum line especially the ones that have emissions components... my sisters boyfriend ripped out some tunes and rerouted them to the wrong places & my car won't pass DEQ now. I have never had a problem with it passing DEQ since I bought it in 2012 (95 ford probe se)it drives but stalls and Jerks & shacks. The backfiring stopped when I put in a new mass air flow sensor. Is the a schematic a layperson can follow to replace the missing tubes?😢

Hahaha, when I first got my 95 F150 i didn't know what the vacuum cansiters actually were and I just called them the tomato sauce cans

Hey man, looks like that original reservoir is no where to be found now, but luckily a friend of mine at Ford knew the superseded part number they upgraded it to. I made a video about it, and it works very well and it’s a direct fit!

For anyone else that runs into the cracking and crumbling line on the max A/C toggle, the vacuum line that you want is 3mm. It will be the perfect size to slip onto the actuator AND if you cut back the sleeve to get access to non crumbled line, it slips over without needing the electrical tape. Just letting anyone know that finds this

thank you for this. My vacuum lines are brittle and old on my 1994 bronco.

I actually bought a kit that was specific to my 95. (Cant remember who made it) . The best thing about it was the lines were size and color specific. So for example, there were red lines. You found the red lines on the vehicle and replaced those, then the green so on and so on. You just had to cut to length. Very little waste.

Steve im having a problem with my truck wich is while Im driving sometimes it shuts off for like 10 minutes and then starts right up and then it will shut off or it will Not its very random any idea of what this could be ? ( replaced fuel pump and fuel regulator ) 🙏

My son bought an unfinished project truck that was a 95 f150 4x4. It came with an incomplete, brittle vacuum system. Where’s the best place to find a complete diagram as we are probably going to have to start from scratch?

Hello!! I can't find the location of my map sensor in my truck it's a ford f150 5.0 96 eddi bauer help!!!! It's not where it's supposed to be

Hello, what fittings did you use to connect the old lines to the new ones? Specifically the 5/32 lonss that you used 4mm line to replace?

Thanks man I had redone most of mine and the line that go to that blend door I had to put tape there like you did to

All my vaccum lines and electrical were burnt this is alot of help thanks

Hey buddy is me again my 95 does not have that canister it has a different set up is there anywere were i can send you pictures

Where did you get the coffee vacuum can from?😅 I been looking but can’t fine it.

Hey, I. warm my pinto beans that way ! Commom man ! LOL !!

Are these brand vacuum lines still doing good?

Great video. I just bought a 96 F350 and used some of the info in your video during my walk around inspection of the truck. I'll be doing these repairs after the truck gets delivered.

What is next to the coffee can? Mine is torn up and would like to replace it. There are two hoses connected to where the drive belts are, they lead next to the coffee can and they have some odd attachments on them. I think they are both filters of some sort?

That is a purge valve solenoid that comes off the charcoal canister and then goes into the tb

Thx for your video and thorough guidance I have been a subcriber of yours. I have the same problem with that white vacuum line at 5:52 I have a 1990 Ford F150 4x4 5.0 liter. You said you cut an inch of black electrical tape so it could hold better. Has it been holding up or has it fallen apart? Or did you come up with a better idea? Thanks your a life saver.

hello the part where you use the silicon tube for the vaccume ac, was that a 4mm? I am gonna purchase this item and do the trick you show to fix my ac that stuck on Defrost. I wanna make sure I purchase the right measurement for the 3.7 vacuum tube and do the electrical tape trick.

Than can has nothing to do with the hvac control strictly for EGR system

I am trying to find a vacuum canister can you help me 88 f150

Where can I order the coffee can? As I has been looking for it on inerternet

What size hose did you have to use for the blend door actuator?

Anyway I could get a step by step from EGR solenoid to intake to egr valve to canister diagram or video from anyone here. Replaced all new egr stuff and get the the vaccum right

assuming all the lines on the site you linked are measured in OD?

Where did you get the Vacuum canister?? I cant find one !!

The last thing that I cleaned out was the vapor line from the fuel tank to the evaporation canister/charcoal canister. Mine was completely clogged and would not allow the vapor to be caught and it built pressure up in my fuel tank, not good. You might check yours and replace the rubber lines and blow out the steel lines.

Jeremy

Quick question at the end you said you bought an extra 5 feet of 5 mm hose but description says 6mm should I grab the 5ft of 5mm or 5ft more of 6mm???? Thank you!