It’s always that (1) one bolt that’s hard to get to and is stubborn to come off…. Thanks for this great follow up video of the temporary trailer air bag fix to the actual air bag replacement. 👍😎👍
I also put anti seize around the “collar” of the nut as well. Where it passes through the frame rail to help prevent that same seizing situation you had with the other bolt because that damn “access” hole SUCKS!!!
Good video!!, in my humble opinion you need to indicate the torque on the bronze nuts to avoid damage on the thread(that is very important to point out the torques), another case that is very important is that you indicate a safe procedure, and the PPM(Personal protection equipment). I understand, maybe you will say, I am not professional!!!,but if you consider it, you will be a professional and your videos will be more impactful. Blessings!!!
If you keep the same air lines plumbed together you can loosen the leveling valve from the rod then raise the valve then the other 3 bags will blow the trailer right up as far as you need to get the bags out, no jacks.
Thanks for the video , I have been doing airbags on a fleet of dry and reefer trailers for 2 years and lately the 2015 2016 2017 and some of the 2019s need bags they are rotted and sometimes leaking when it shows up with multiple problems , there is 2 other shops DOTing the fleet so sometimes we didn't inspect it ever to prevent a breakdown, we have been getting them in beat to shit and back more often, So its been a lot of work the past year with airbags On our trailers, I like the Aircat 1058VXL on an 1-1/8 socket we use the AS9923 and AS8713 and AS8719 and 1 other I cant remember I see your using an 1-5/16 so larger thread i guess , So far the Aircat has been holding up for 9 months It will shear the frozen fastener on the top the 1/2" threaded stud or the hollow stud, the problem I have is the replacement airbags that we order using the trailers VIN # have way longer hollow mounting studs so you have to hold the socket down and separate the mini impact from the socket with a twisting motion to get your wedged between the frame shit out of there its a lot of work I have the time down to an hour and a halve to 2 hours im not in a big hurry im old man, I change 4 that's indoors with a bumper jack that helps allot if in the shop, I was cutting them off at first 20 or so taking 4 hours that was a pain in the ass then I found these mini impacts that I broke 3 before finding a tough enough mini impact the Astro 1822 that broke the hammers twice then was not repairable 6 months and the astro 1834 blew apart the housing hammering on an airbag nut for extended period of time with an 1-1/8 deep impact because it lacks power , Heating up the nuts all the time probably didn't help the impacts because they would get really hot but really the Aircat 1058 has been doing great no heating up the airbag fasteners it will shear one off 1 out of 10 that may have been cross threaded on or something,I reuse most of the nuts but have new nuts in stock non flanged, the flanged nuts seem better but the non flanged nuts should have a lock washer used with them and hammer them down with the impact no torque wrench needed only for the rookies LOL , I am in the north of Chicago area so I have way more corrosion on everything ,Using oxygen acetylene on torque arms and shock absorber bolts, U bolts on leaf springs, cutting S cams out, Using 140PSI on 1/2" air line hose to make the Aircat rock , Ok be safe
why didnt you just get at it from the open side of the frame? seems like there is lots of access from that side or is it just looking that way in the video?
