Excellent video off to do my golf ,great real world commentary ,and camera work without any assistance , assuming all was ok after , changed them before and they started cracking again after 200 mile always wondered were my mistakes were not correct torque ,tks again
Try removing the hub bolt inserting a 20mm long M12 hex Bolt into the hub and then replace the hub bolt.Tighten slowly and the CV joint will come away from the shaft. Nice video 👍
Great job mate. The bottom arm bolt was a pain in the ass to push down! Had to beat the shit out of the outer part to get it loose. Video quality could be better, got the idea anyway, thanks alot! Cheers from Finland :)
yo good stuff man. I got a 96 a4 that got a ripped boot but im not taking a chance just doing a boot even if its a low mile car. God bless and happy new year 2024
Hi, nearly done and I've come stuck, cannot get the lower wishbone in! Anyone else got this, any advice, have turned fully to right on right wheel, it's like the wheel hub needs tilting back to get in?!
Just had an idea, going to get a ratchet strap and try and pull the hub in from the other side of car... maybe the wheel, will give it a go tomorrow when I get back from work. Let me know if you have any other/better ideas please.
Just done mine on a 2007 passat 1.9 tdi BXE. Getting the old joint off i wound the old bolt all the way in and popped the joint free, Wound most of the way in then put the car in first gear to stop the shaft rotating once I met resistance. Think you worked on my car in the past, the stretch bolt was way under torque lol.
4min 5 secs in - the plastic shim, make sure you fit it the correct way round - my one that's had a replacement CV had the plastic shim fitted the wrong way by my garage last time. Sebs one is correct.
Nice video. but for people watching this, this was a really easy cv joint to remove . some of these can be a bastard to remove and refit. Ive done a number of them as im in the trade. I think the more wear on the clip causes problems and also when non genuine parts are used.. but there still a bad principal by vw and i do like the vw as a hole
Same as engine head bolts - long wrench, then three grunts and a fart? No, the spec for the spindle bolt is a torque of 148 ft ilbs, and then an additional 180 degrees turn. You may have been lucky not to have the bolt come loose, but I sure as hell don't want to be driving along the same roads as you! The bolt should be replaced every time as it is designed to be stretched when refitting the hub. I found it necessary to disconnect the engine end of the shaft to get the shaft out of the hub - this requires a good 10mm triple square socket, On the right hand side you may need to take off the alloy protector(s) for the inner joint (one on the B5 and two on the B5.5) which is very fiddly and needs a long 6mm hex key - I cut down an allen key for this. Note before starting to have available a very good 18 mm ring spanner for the steering links. In case you need to undo the top links (I did on my B5.5 as the bottom ball joints refused to part) you need both 16 and 17 mm sockets and a g-clamp to get them back into place. On the right hand side you may need to take off the alloy protector for the inner joint (one on the B5 and two on the B5.5) which is very fiddly and needs a long 6mm hex key - I cut down an allen key for this. I would also strongly recopmmend using a Loctite or similar engineering glue on the threads of al the nuts you remove. Torques - lower ball joint 45 ft lbs, spindle 148 ft lbs plus 180 degrees, 10mm triple square bolts 51 ft lbs, wheels 89 ft lbs.
