Thanks so much for this video. It was a hell of a job but it brings peace being able to drive bumpy roads without my steering wheel sounding like a bag of marbles. 😂
Took me 6 hours (3 of which was the final bolt), but I finally did it and the bushing was in fact the issue. I couldn't have done it without your video, I can't thank you enough, saved me from spending $1,500 like the dealership wanted.
Hi Pete. This helped me Immensely mate!! I definitely owe you a drink or some lunch next time I see you at a Qld 86BRZ club meet. Took me about 90 mins start to finish. FYI to anyone doing this, I found it easier to undo the brake pedal bracket to provide more space to remove & reinstall the 14mm long-shaft horizontal bolt. (The brake pedal had 4x 12mm nuts on the firewall, and 2x 12 bolts that are vertical up into the dashboard) Thanks to Peters video, I did NOT accidentally bend the mounting brackets like many other have done. Kudos Peter.
I’ve had this issue for 3 months now, and after scouring the web, I can only find webpages and forums, but no clear-cut videos to help me with doing this myself. You’ve done it! Thank you, thank you! This really helps me! Sorry that this turned out not be your issue, and I hope that you figure it out! From Guam 🇬🇺
Peter. I really really want to thank you for posting this video. I've been trying to figure out this issue for 7 months. I almost didn't want to drive anymore because of all the noise hitting tiny reflectors in the road. I am very pleased to say... this was exactly my problem. I love driving my hachi-roku again. Thanks buddy!
Just finished doing this repair! It was a true pain in the ass since it was my first ever automotive mechanic work. But I fixed it!! Thanks so much! Now I’m going to sell it.
@peter - I’d love to send you some dosh as a thank you for this video, you saved me a LOT of money not having to ask a garage to do this - and your video made this incredibly approachable! Also had the nicest day working on my car with my dad, even if it did take about five hours because of that damn retaining bolt at the back!! Hahaha For the record, we worked awkwardly around the power steering motor without pulling the retaining bolt out fully - it was catching so much on the brake pedal top mounts and we didn’t want to risk pulling that whole pedal out. We managed to just about lift the EPS top off, cleared out the debris with a mirror and sticky tape to lift it all out, then replaced the top and just had a harder time doing up the rear bolt, less than a quarter turn at a time! On the plus side, despite wrenching that retaining bolt a lot in our efforts, we didn’t bend the clamp it sits in, and therefore reinstalling that part was surprisingly easy, with a little wiggling (which is easier with two people!) I managed to get it in and done up within 15 mins. Cheers Peter again for ‘giving me back’ my good old ‘86 which I can now drive with a smile on my face! I have never been so happy to see a road full of potholes in my life !! Hahaha You’re a legend mate Let me know if you have a PayPal I can wire you something towards a slab of beers! All the best Andrew
Just did this today. My rattle is finally gone. I would advise to just remove the driver seat. Laying down was so much better and didnt get the feeling of blood rushes to your head. Thanks for the video.
Thank you so much for this video! I was having the rattling issue in my 2015 FRS and found out that this part might be the issue (and it was). Your video helped a lot when trying to see what parts were which, so thank you!
I groaned when it was not your issue… it was my issue, and your vid was very helpful. It looks like the toyota part is hard plastic with rubber cushion inside.. so when the rubber goes, at least you still have power steering. The all-rubber part I used as replacement will likely disable power steering if it ever disintegrates.
alot of extra stuff going on in the video but very helpful once i got the patience to sit down and watch it all, this job took me 3 hours to do in some very painful body positions
Just finished this! thanks heaps for the video, clear and easy to follow. For those planning on doing it like VL said I removed the brake pedal which made it much easier. Also remove the clutch cables at the same time as the brake cables. Thanks again!
Finally 'finished' after 3 hours and 2 attempts. Pulled my steering column all the way out though, currently about to do a test drive to see how things go. Bushing was definitely busted on mine though
Holy, thanks for the video I’m definitely replacing my tie rods first after seeing your results!!! Vibration noise in my frs seems to be from steering wheel area however so I’ll be back here eventually.
Peter, thank you for posting this. If you have a patreon or somewhere to donate, let me know. You saved me so much. Sorry that yours wasn't the issue, but once I got that damned 14m bolt out, i was able to check and found all the disintegrated rubber, and confirmed it was my issue. My symptons were sounding like bad suspension when on cobblestone, and anytime I would go above 83 mph, it would start to rattle and get worse as I sped up. I had two shops look at this and recommended new suspension all the way around because I am at 120k miles. THANK YOU AGAIN!
Glad my video helped you out. I don't have patreon or anything - I just do the videos to help out so I am glad to get some good feedback that it has saved you some $$.
Thanks heaps Peter! Other than the almost two hours spent trying to get the rounded off nuts connecting the column to the chassis off, the rest of the process took 20 minutes.
My 2013 FRS has been making this sound for 1.5 years. I'm going to finish watching and get whatever i need to fix it at home. Thank you! It will be my first mechanical fix. Mine only makes the sound at low speeds. 5-12mph. Based in US. Edit: I've just looked up this exact part and it say it doesn't fit my vehicle 🥲 what are my options? Should i still try it?
Hi, I bought the toyota part shown on here and it fit perfectly just fyi. My dealership also told me it didn't match but I decided to try it anyways and the noise is gone now
Peter, great video. I think I have the same issue, so this is very helpful. Given the extent of 'dismantling' I am a little reluctant to give it a go myself, so just wondering if you are Brisbane based and would interested in doing a job on the side.
I am 3 hours from Brisbane. Give the 86Shop a call in Wacol as I heard they do the job for $200-$300 which is way cheaper than a dealer who will want to replace the whole motor. The86Shop have done heaps of them. the86shop.com.au/
Peter very detailed video! My Clunk sounds like it's coming from under the dash. It only happens going over RR tracks, speed bumps, dips, or severe rough roads. I also suspect something related EPS area. Is there anything else under the dash that could cause the under dash clunk?
I eventually found my rattle by going around my front suspension and tapping everything with a rubber mallet. Just because it sounds like it is under the dash doesn’t mean that it is - sounds can play tricks on you.
@@numbnutsAUSo what exactly was the problem? I've tried shaking, bending pulling, pushing, tightening nuts, with no results. I would hate to buy parts with no success. So far, maybe that EPS Bushing sounds plausible.
@@numbnutsAU I miss a very important step! I forgot to mark all shaft positions. The unit came apart and it must have shifted 1tooth or more. Now I have a ABS/SRS Light. I believe I need a Zero Point Calibration. Have you done it doing the paperclip in the OBD II Conector or by a scan tool?
Thank you for this great video ! Did you have a look at your engine mounts ? I had a clunk on the driver side (passenger side here in France 😊) on big bumps and hard accelerations with traction loss. I changed my coilover top plates, tightened the swaybar, the exhaust too and I ended up changing my engine mounts for TRD ones and the issue disappeared. According to your clunk video, I would also check the steering rack bushings 😉 EDIT : Just read the comments and saw you found your issue 👍
I’ve got a 2014 gt86, and found a 2020 gt86 pro at a scrapyard. How difficult would it be to change the steering wheel and dials in my gt86 for the pros version, so I can have the digital screen and the controls on the steering wheel on my 2014 normal gt86? I really want steering wheel controls and the screen that shows oil temps and power bands etc.
Im currently working on this fix on my frs and I managed to get to the motor and sure enough the bushing was destroyed, I’m so hyped!!! Will I be able to successfully put it back together is the real question🤔
had the same problem... mechanic changed the eps coupler using the equivalent hyundai part... the damage to the part that came out was not apparent initially, but the middle portion had missing "teeth." the rattle had disappeared, and i hope it stays that way... btw, i dont know how he did it, but i did not see him take out the eps. he lowered the steering column, and loosened the eps bolts only far enough to make a gap to remove/ replace the coupler. to avoid any check engine lights after the procedure, DO NOT UNPLUG ANY ELECTRICALS
dear, is there any lights were on after you put things back? I read one of the comments saying "do not unplug cabbles!", the question if it is possible to do the job while all those wires are connected?
My Fr-s is making noises coming from the steering wheel and it’s really annoying I already took it to the mechanic and said they can’t find the problem. Y’all ever had the same problem?
Ive got ABS /Traction lights after the replacement, wheel leans a little to the right now. A lot of posts say the abs needs to be replaced/clock spring possibly. Is it possible i just didnt place my wheel back in straight, and if i taie it off again later tonight i could tix the whole thing without going through the hundreds of dollars replacement for the sensors?
I'd say you should be OK to try and realign the steering wheel. Don't need to replace the clock spring so if the wheel realignment doesn't work you or a workshop should be able to do a reset on the steering angle and clear the code with a decent scan tool.
Finally got the time to go back in and realign the wheel. After about 3 tries I finally got it right. Had to remove those 2 bolts and keep realigning it. ABS and traction lights are off now as well and everythings good to go ❤️ thanks a ton for the video again
I did find the issue thanks. Passenger side sway bar endlink. I found it using a rubber mallet and just going around tapping things until something rattled. it was a slightly loose nut on where the endlink attaches to the sway bar and not a loose turnbuckle. it felt tight but wasn't tight enough it seems. rattle also sounded like it was in the drivers side.
I noticed you removed the steering wheel badge. How did you do that? I recently scratched mine and don't really want to put a sticker in on top. I would like to remove the badge before putting the sticker one on.
I wonder if this is what mine is dong? I have checked EVERYTHING and its all tight. new coilovers and tie rods end links etc... sounds like a metal clunk over uneven terrain in the center area of my frs.
If you've recently done suspension work I'd be triple checking your suspension components are tightened to factory specs. My issue was a loose passenger side sway bar endlink that sound like it was coming from the drivers side footwell. Noises in cars have a strange was of projecting themselves around the car to confuse the source.
They are for sure tight, gave them a good shake to no clunk from them. It could be because I didn't attach the sway bar with the suspension loaded up and the end link is making contact with either the lca or inner upper fender. Gonna find out this weekend.
My son has a FR-S and swear it's the clunkiest suspension I've ever dealt with. Changed out shocks, front tie rods, sway bar links and rear camber links and it still rattles and clanks. I guess the next step is a full bushing kit and possibly something on the steering column assembly. It just never ends.
Is there any extra unused wiring socket under the steering wheel? after i change the EPS bush, my ABS & VSC is light up. i dont know how the mechanic do it like that, i just saw under the steering wheel have extra socket wire is unplug.
there shouldn't be any sockets that are unplugged. it is pretty easy to take the underside of the dash apart and check per my video. or take it back to your mechanic.
Yep, loose passenger side swaybar endlink. Noise sounded like it was coming from drivers footwell so didn't look at anything on passenger side. Noises in cars have strange ways of travelling around to sound like they are coming from places they are not lol.
@@numbnutsAU thanks for the fast reply. Ordered my part this morning, pretty sure we established mine is this(I hope). When I move the wheel left to right quickly it makes some noise, so we're really hoping this is it
@@numbnutsAU couldn't get the 2 column bolts removed at 19:31. Also mine are 14mm. But I can't them off for the life of me think I'm about to have to start putting it back togetherb
@@numbnutsAU nevermind looks like you used a breaker bar later in the clip. Can't get mine off for the life of me even with one. Looks like I'll be needing to do this after my road trip 😭
@numbnutsAU what sway bar links you running I got the same issue after installing my whiteline sway bar kit I'm thinking it's the sway bar links too as I've checked over everything nothing visibly loose or hitting metal to metal
