Thanks! Just used this video to do a brake job on my 2012 civic si. I had a coupon and got the front brake pads for $20. I already had all the equipment. The dealer quoted me over $500 for pads and rotors.! My rotors were in great condition so I kept them as is. It took me 1 hour to do the job and car is breaking fantastic. You literally saved me $480 and time and gas. THANK YOU!!’
Firestone auto.New front pads and new Rotors.Told me near 400.00.What.Roters still good.Replaced them myself cost 50.00.Cabin air filter 32.00.Labor 20.00.Got part my self 20.00.Told to replace 2 shocks in back of car.Cost maybe near 320.00.Whent to family owned Car repair shop only need 1 .Cost 120.00.Oil change near 60.00 for top grade 100 percent for my car needs.Got oil change in Walmart 52.00.Shop around.Firestone too dam high here.Never. get taken for a high price ride.Thanks for real help video.Save some money for other things.
Thanks for the vid! I just got a torque wrench and new rotors and pads for my Civic; I can feel it shaking when braking so I know the old ones are warped. The simplicity yet focus on the important bits are a very welcome detail! My only recommendation; torque the wheels again after around 100-150 miles. Torquing them down immediately after putting on the wheel is important, but driving subjects the lugs to varying stresses that very slightly elongate the lug, which has the potential to cause the nuts to back out if they're not re-torqued
Anthony Maggio I actually just did the rear brakes but failed to get a video. It's roughly the same procedure, only difference is the calipers need to be turned back in with the brake tool. You can rent the tool needed at auto zone and return it for a full refund. the rear can't be pushed in with a normal C-clamp. Also I found it easier if you remove the bolt securing the brake hose to get a little more slack for removing the caliper. *Do not remove the brake hose from the caliper!* just remove the bolt securing the brake hose to a bracket behind the rotor. Hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
Jeff Mitchell unfortunately I don't drums on the rear on mine, (ex-l model have disc on the rear) I mean I'd rather have disc but I don't have a video haha.
No Vids show where to lift the front, from the frame. Side lips are mentioned are mentioned in the manual for jacking. Jack stand-subframe bolt for backup safety , works for me.
When it comes to the dust boot on slider pins, it's sometimes easier to pry the other end of the boot off of the pin (small screwdriver) and just pull the pin out leaving the boot in place on the caliper. If you pull boot and pin out together, and can't get the boot back in, take it by itself and put a little fold in it so it will fit in the caliper groove...and then put the pin back in through it.
Thanks for that tip. I just saw in another video a guy had trouble getting the dust boot back in because he was trying to put the boot and pin in at the same time. This would have helped him, and it will help me if I have that issue. Thanks!
honestly, i did not learn alot, but i was interested though the whole vid.... i was amused that you push the caliper exactly the same as i do(its what i thought of, not knowing it was an accepted method, yay!) your grease placement was a learned experiance and i always remove by the bigger bolts, never the small housing, i will definitely keep that in mind i assure you, thank you so much... i am now an expert!!! hehehe
'If you knew how my wife drove'. HAHA.... I know this is an old video. Would this be the same for a LX 4 door model? Same year. Brakes Plus did a free inspection (nice of them) quoted me $958.00.....I said I don't have that much, they bought it down to $727.00 but, didn't have that much either. You make it look so easy lol...thanks for the video!!
I think you will find the two screws that hold the rotor/disks onto the wheel hubs are JIS type and not phillips. Using phillips screwdrivers/bits It one of the main causes of rounding out the screw heads. See this info www.motorcycle.com/ask-mo-anything/difference-between-japanese-jis-phillips.html
I couldn't remove one of the lower 12mm bolt; it's real tight and just spins the greased pin around. Is there a special tool that will lock that grease pin down. I noticed there is a quasi rectangular end for gripping on the grease pin.
I've heard of using a flat blade screwdriver and prying the caliper piston back in while it's still on the car. Also a big set of channel locks will work. They make specific tool set just for this you can rent and return full refund from your local auto parts.
My 2012 Honda Civic LX slider pens are different. One has a rubber boot at the end and other doesn't. Does anyone know what pen goes where? Rubber booted, top or bottom? Brakes are grabbing, maybe that's the problem?
Good question because I did this job twice, first time I just replaced the brake pads with the basic 20$ auto one cheap pads and they were worn out in like 15k miles. Also I noticed the brakes catches (from warped rotors) so the 2nd time I went with the Napa gold pads and rotors, it's been great ever since don't skimp on brake pads.
Don’t take advice from this guy he really doesn’t know what he’s talking about. If you are buying your parts from a brick and mortar store like AutoZone or Napa you are being overcharged. Check out the prices on rock auto or parts geek and you will get better quality parts at a lower price. See my other very lengthy comment about all the things he could’ve done better in this video.
Don’t you need to bleed the piston every time you change your brakes?. I heard that you could damage your ABS if you push your piston without bleeding it.
Erica Westover I've never heard that. I do remove the brake fluid Reservoir cap before pushing piston. Not to say some manufacturers don't recommend bleeding the brakes but I've never heard it or found it nessasary unless you get air in the brake system
Great video. I have a honda civic 2014. Do you think i should change the rotors? I only have 60000 miles on my car. How could you tell if rotors need to be replaced?
Junaid Khalid depends on a couple of things. Are the rotors scarred where the brake pad got down to the metal. Are the rotors warped, best way to tell is if the brake pedal seems to shudder when applied, more so at higher speeds. That would indicate that the rotors are warped. If they don't have obvious signs of scarring (be sure to check both sides of rotors) and the pedal is smooth when brakes are applied then I'd say your rotors are good.
It's a sealed system so you don't need to bleed them unless the brake system is opened (replace lines, caliper, etc.) hope this helps, thanks for watching!
Dont you need to push on the brake pedal when youre all done to push the caliper piston back in? Otherwise you would pull out of your drive way and you step on the brake pedal and it wouldnt work until after several pumps?
Technically yes you should but you would know well before pulling out onto the road, it should only take a couple pumps and you would notice immediately when you press the brake to put in gear.
@@Powertool1990 okay thank you so much, im changing my front brakes this morning on my civic. Ive changed them on my motorcycle....just never to my car. So your video is perfect. Thank you so much!
No need to bleed brakes if this system wasn't opened (line removed) not a bad idea to pump pedel once your done so the caliper will compress new pads but no need to bleed system unless a brake line is removed
We only torque head bolts and wheel bolts - everything else is a matter of experience. We develop calibrated wrists and calibrated elbows and we know how tight is ‘tight enough’ based on years and years of experience of doing the same jobs, day in and day out. So no, to answer your question in short we do not torque brake bolts.
You don't need to grease anything, but it helps. The day you have a slide pin seize and ruin your pads you will wish you took the extra 30 seconds to clean and grease the slide pins.
