Thanks. As always, pads can be different for a variety of reasons. I think some of these have larger 352mm rotors instead of the 325mm, but the process will remain the same. It's important to cross reference your own application to make sure you have the right parts.
So I have to replace the brakes and rotors on my gf ford explorer. I just wanted to check and make sure it was a standard replacement job. Being from Minnesota I wasn't prepared how upset this video was going to make me watching you tap that rotor off with a gentle little tappy tap.
Ha, yeah we don't have salt or anything on our roads. It's a standard job, but it might be a little more difficult. You can usually rent a puller at the local auto parts. I've also used the catalyzed penetrating lubricant with good success. You just have to be sure to clean everything really well with brake cleaner when you put it back together. Good luck!
Thank you for showing that that star screw had to be removed prior to removing the caliper. I was smashing the heck out of my caliper by watching other people's videos that didn't even cover this, wondering what the heck I was doing wrong... All the while, prior to watching any of these videos I was staring at that screw wondering if that needed to be removed prior to!
Informative, thanks. I'm about to do mine and it's my first time on my current vehicle, same year police interceptor, only difference I believe is it's a slightly larger rotor/pad.
Hello and thanks for the great video. I have exactly the same 2016 Ford explorer sport as yours. I also received some pads (Wagner OEX 1611B) without the clip you mentioned. I was wondering if you have noticed any difference without the clip. Maybe some brake pads are of higher quality and do not need that clip? Please let me know what has been your experience without the clip. Thank you.
They do make a difference I ordered some z28 ceramic pads with those metal holders they have your brakes when they brake they will have a small delay when the oems type when you break they will return back quick I felt the difference.
So you don’t need the brake piston tool to change the front brakes out? I know i needed to rent that tool from autozone to change out the back brakes. A c-clamp wouldn’t work for me in the rear
@@RoadandReel no way man, it’s diversified. It awesome, and it lets you put out content when you can’t get away for a day in the back country. Keep it coming.
@@The-Sound-Explorer Thanks! I should have a fly fishing video out this week that shows the trip where I snapped my rod. It's been tough with all the forest closures and all this stupid heat.
Locktite and drill for the screw? I hope you live in CA or TX because if you live in MA for example next time you changing you rotors you might as well buy a wheel hub
@@RoadandReel I ended up stripping the brake caliper bolt. forgot that it was the other way to loosen. lol got pissed off and put tire back on. Problem for another day. Whatever. Haha Thanks for the reply
@@RoadandReel the head…was turning the wrong way . Haha As my 16 year old looks at me like I’m stupid. I’ll try a vice grips tomorrow. Thanks again for the video
The rear calipers on these need the tool, but not the front. It's usually available to rent at most auto parts stores. I believe the Escape, C-max, Edge, Focus, Flex, and Fusion all need the caliper compression tool. There may be others as well.
I've noticed with this car that the rotors need to be turned with every brake change. Depending on wear, you can turn them 2-3 times before they get too thin. The tire shop or wherever you get them turned will be able to measure them and give you an estimate.
@@RoadandReel 275ft/lbs sounds pretty high. I would say that might be a call out in newton meters. Im thinking about 75ft/lbs. range would be plenty. Lugbolts are usually 90-100ft/lbs. Hope this helps.
@@jasonm1974 If you do new pads with the rotors they will need compressed to fit the new pad due to it being adjusted to the wear on the old pad. So the rear compress just like any other caliper with c clamp but the front has a special spin compress caliper that takes a special tool I bought off amazon.
Is the rotor rusted or the brake pads seized? You don't really need to spin the rotor to get it off. Just remove the bolts holding the brake caliper on and the screws on the rotor. If the rotor is stuck, try hitting it with a rubber mallet or piece of wood going back and forth on each side. That should start to move it.
My goodness he used locktite on a unnecessary screw. Next time you will be drilling that screw out. That screw is only there for the original production of the car
Yeah, you're right. Those are just for production purposes, but removable thread locker won't be a problem to remove and it gives the same security that what was already there from Ford. Thanks for the comment!
How the hell do you know what size rotor you need? There’s 3 different sizes and when you call the parts at Ford with the vin they can only give you the weight. How idiotic
That's bizarre! They should tell you the genuine Ford part number when you call. Your only other option is to take a measurement from outside edge across the center to the opposite outside edge. If possible, you could remove the rotor and take it down there with you to match it up, but I've never had a dealer not be able to tell me the part number. If you can get the part number, then you can use that to reference and source the rotors.
