Thank you! I've put this off for a few years because it looks so nasty (after 180K miles). I followed your steps and it was quite simple -even did it in the dark. What a difference in steering! Other F150 folks, when your steering gets tough they're going to tell you it's the rack $1200+). I was about to bit the bullet but sprayed my intermediate shaft u-joints down with PB Blaster (I mean soaked them). Took care of it. The, 5-6 years later (I know...) I swapped the shaft. It's like new.
"I'm just gonna get a bigger hammer" 🤣🤣 great video thank you. Looked it up in my haynes and it just says "it can't be done" something needed reprogrammed.. 🤦😖 i knew better. Thank you
I’m having super sensitive steering can almost feel every little bump and there is a little play in the wheel when turning from center I recently had a bad tire which was causing a death wobble in the front end of my truck
what is the next steering shaft part called above that one? i replaced that one,,and i have slop where the 2 connect on top. was told the next shaft part is worn out on the end and needs replaced. do not know the name of part? ? if you can help,,thanks
I've got play in my steering wheel, I've replaces the entire front end other than steering rack and steering shaft, do you think this shaft is more likely causing the excess play rather than the steering rack?
+Home Pro a torque wrench would be required to set the proper tension on the hardware. Thanks for watching. Buy the part in this video on 1AAuto.com: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
So, awesome video. I completed my swap on my 2014 F-150. Only thing is I got everything back together after an hour of fighting, now if I want to drive straight my steering wheel is turned 15 degrees to the right. What's the best way to go about fixing that now?
Excellent video. When I tapped the top of the shaft down on my 2011 the upper shaft came down through the boot by about 2". Does this have anything to do with the telescoping steering wheel? What is the best way to get that upper shaft back to it's regular position? I got the old one off and the new one on the bottom but the new one won't fit(even fully retracted). I just want to make sure I have the upper shaft in correctly.
If it’s bad will it throw off the Advance service track light my fuses are still good but when I tap it with a hammer it loosens it up and it steers again
I did mine on my 2010 F150 I had a hard time to get bottom bolt out after I finished installing shaft I find that my steering wheel is not center and it seem that my steering turns more on one side compaired to other side I think my steering might have turned when I tried to put shaft back on What do I have to do to get my steering wheel back to normal Any help will b appreciate Thanks
Thanks for the video. It would be helpful to illustrate what problem was experienced to require this part to be replaced. "I'm just gonna grab a bigger hammer..." :) Love it, works for me. On the "red" Loctite: Rots o' ruck, G.I. When you need to remove that 1) you have to heat it and 2) you have to remember that that's on there. If the next guy isn't you, he's in for a rodeo.
Would this be the same process for a 2010 Expedition? My symptoms are “sticky” wheel at the 8 and 4 positions on the wheel. Otherwise the wheel turns freely. How to know if this is the problem versus a steering pump? Recently flushed the steering fluid and that didn’t help. Thx!
If you would have removed the air cleaner box and tube one could see the column and associated parts much easier. Not to mention easier to get to the job.
Thank you! Fantastic step by step. Greatly appreciate people like yourself that take the time to share knowledge with the rest of us for vehicle fixes.
Just gonna have to make my own video for the real trucks f250, f350 etc., since they fail at the lower steering shafts rubberized point just above the steering box. Buuuuut you have to buy the whole damn shaft even though its just the link that fails...
+Joe Paolina The part in this video fits your application, and the install should be the same if not very similar. You can pick this part up here: 1aau.to/ia/FDSTC00011
+Mike O This procedure might be different for your application. We do not currently have a how-to video for this particular year, make and model. Thank you for asking! 1AAuto.com
@joeh690 part number you may need is (425-368) at least that’s for my 04 Ranger. it’s the same process, 2 bolts. Just keep in mind how you pull out, the bottom part has a spline , and also for the bottom one, a wrench would be preferable.
@@mikewitdm do you know what would cause my wheel to have a clunk noise coming from it when i turn it. it looks like its coming from the shaft like the u joints or something. i can visually see it when i have a friend turn the wheel. but it happened when i had my rack and pinion steering replaced my a mechanic shop. it never had this noise till then. im getting multiple people saying the shaft itself is bad. But i don't get how it would go bad that quick. or the bearing is gone or worn out, either they forgot to put it back in or used an old one ??
Bungie idea came from Fordtechmakeuloco channel that came out 9 years ago. Your channel or his does not address a rusted system. I live in the Northeast. Bottom bolt rusts to reduced size head which creates a nightmare. No channel addresses this. I am dealing with this now.
Yes it would. I have the same issue and will be replacing mine soon as well. Be aware though, part number 8L1Z-3B676-A can be found on ebay for like 40 bucks. If you click on the a1a auto link it takes you to the page where its for sale for well over 300 dollars. Just a fyi.
@@daveykillz2780 The OEM Ford part is $133.00 in 2021. If you want a Chinese knock-off on your steering column, they're about $30. Good luck with that.
