I am swapping my 94 vette ignition switch right now and out of all the videos and Info you have the best hands down my friend. I didnt have a key at all when I bought the car so I had to find the resistance in the harness to the vats idk if it's going to work but I got my fingers crossed. I havnt seen or heard anyone say you can get the resistance this way without the key so . Appreciate the video brotha!
Not a bad video for the mechanical. Little loose on electrical but a great try. Many people have problems explaining electronics. A side demo would have been nice.
If possible, try cleaning your ignition keys before replacing your ignition lock cylinder. I got lucky and just had to clean and lube my ignition key. I still have both ignition keys from the factory. One key had zero issues and another key would get stuck in the ignition and I couldn't turn off the engine. Luckily, after gently wiggling the ignition/key enough, I was able to turn off the car and remove the problem key. First, I cleaned both of my ignition keys with 99% pure isopropyl and a cloth. I was careful to clean both the teeth and the small grooves. I saw some visible debris transfer to the cloth from the teeth but especially from the grooves. After cleaning the keys, I sprayed some WD-40 Specialist Dirt & Dust Resistant Dry Lube PTFE Spray on a cloth and then "cleaned" the keys again with this. I did NOT spray anything into my ignition lock cylinder. Also, I've read NOT to use normal WD-40 because it can attract dust and grime over time, making the problem worse. Anyway, after cleaning the keys and then wiping them with the WD-40 PTFE Dry Lube, both keys glide in and out of the ignition and I have no problems with my ignition switch. I special-ordered my 1995 Z28 twenty five years ago - 172K miles with original keys and original ignition switch - so there is a chance that you don't have to replace your ignition lock cylinder if I didn't. Maybe I just got lucky but try cleaning those keys first.
Lol you fix things like me although I'm not usually that successful when it comes to electronics. Hey I'm glad your car works again and keep up the great work!!
Thank you so much this was a great video are all data system does not go back that far it's a bootleg version lol so this video helped me tremendously thank you for taking the time and posting this
Alternate solution to dealing with resistors in the keys: delete the whole VATS system. This is done by A. programming VATS out of the PCM (any tuner can do this) and B. taking the yellow and black wire from the TDR and running it straight to ground.
@@2doodsdogamesdude403 OPTION #1: I had a duplicate ignition key made at a Buick dealership. I can't remember the dealership's name, however, it was on RT38 in Westmont, IL. Getting a VAT key made/cut requires you to provide them a copy of your car title and a copy of your birth certificate as I recall (this was 10 years ago). I did not like what he wanted and put up a stink, but he told me it was required by law that way it would prevent anyone from aquiring a duplicate key for someone else's car. OPTION #2: Replace your ignition cylinder. I later had problems with my ignition switch and replaced it. I bought a replacement switch for $30 and installed it myself in about 45 minutes, start to finish. You can also find new ignition switches on ebay for $15-$20. I went to O'Rileys because I did not want to wait 2to3 days for delivery. BTW, you get 2 new keys with your new switch.
Basically, yes it's the same procedure. Some of the parts are a little different (3rd Gens didn't come with air bags for instance) - Great walk through though!
I replaced my ignition lock aswell completely the same only issue I’m having is the vats system new lock don’t have the resister I know the value of the old key Oddly is it normal that my car now ever time I re connect the battery the alarm starts going crazy
How do you bypass the vats system if your key doesn’t have a chip? I can’t get the correct the resistors because I don’t know how much resistance is in my key because it’s literally just a metal key no chip
OK so I have a crank no START issue and think it the vats system when I turn key on security light come on and then goes off then when I crank it over light comes back on what are your thoughts thank u any help would be appreciated
I do not unnerstan.....If the security wires under the dash were already cut and hacked previously, why install the new lock WITH wires attached? why not cut them off since they are useless? seems like more crap in the hole to jam or bind something up... I'm facing the same issue but need to hack the wires AND replace the tumbler which is hanging up intermittently.
He didn’t get into bypassing the vats security system, he just said it was already done, never once said how to install the resistor or which direction they should go. All he did was replace the switch
carl brackett its pretty simple to understand all you do is check the resistance on the old key and then add that resistance to the plug with the purple and yellow/black striped wire but thats only if you want to use the old key that is the bypass
Instead of spending 40 bucks to have a key made you can make your car easier to steal. Yours was already done that way so I wont give you too much guff about it but why not spend the extra to keep it correct and stock? These are a pain and I found the hardest part was running the new tumbler wire thru the steering column. I have a 99 camaro ss so I was very particular about keeping everything stock. Sadly nearly 10 years after replacing it I have to do it again because even the aftermarket tumblers are junk.
You can get keys for 4 or 5 bucks online and take them to a locksmith for a couple of bucks more to cut each key. Otherwise, it's easy to steal your car.
Nothing more irritating than a video that skips over the hard parts and doesn’t give you tips on removing the c-clip. Just “OK, got that off”. Gee, thanks. SMH.
