That bottom "rail" gasket... you didn't get ripped off. The bottom "lip" that you see is actually the oil pan gasket. No problem putting a little bit of RTV down there. I don't recommend doing the grinding on the tab to the oil pickup... while it's on the motor, over the oil pan. All those metal shavings you cut off go right into your oil pan. You also should add oil to the pump before installing it. Then remove the ignition and fuel pump fuses, and turn the key to prime the pump until you see oil pressure. You also went from a stock oil pump to a high volume oil pump. To find the proper o- ring to use, it all depends on the type of oil pickup tube used between straight tube or flared. There should be a "notice" included directing you how to figure out what color o-ring to use . Other things to consider are rod bearings, new oil pickup tube, main bearings, timing chain and of course, always use new gaskets. Make sure to torque all bolts to spec. I will be doing this same thing on my 2006 suburban 6.0 tomorrow. I already removed cv axles, front diff, drive shaft, replaced rod bearings, removed oil pan, baffle/windage plate, Next is main bearings, oil pump, new oil pickup tube and o-ring, water pump, thermostat, plugs, wires, new gaskets throughout. Over all a good video. I appreciate the "rawness" of the video, the honesty of complication, and not making it look "easy" via editing. Whoever does this, just take your time, label things, keep everything clean, watch out for foreign metal shavings and dirt. My suburban has 364,000 miles. An LS motor over 300,000 miles, the high volume oil pump is recommended due to enlarged/ greater clearances ON BEARINGS due to mileage wear and tear. A high volume pump IS NOT recommended for vehicles with LESS than 300,000 miles. The extra volume pressure may cause leaks. Good luck everyone.
everything worked so far i about had massive anxiety when i got to the screw and string part and the screw wouldnt come all the way off I'm kind of pissed i have to buy a Cutting dremel but if it works it works I Guess the seal you're seeing is part of the Oil Pan it needs to be covered with some Gasket maker until you can get to the oil pan itself.
Thanks bud, that's what I'm getting ready to do, my 2000 GMC has almost 300K and the oil pressure gauge is doing the same thing, I replaced the sender while crossing my fingers but, of course that didn't work so here I go. Hey, what's that shirt you are wearing say?
Brand: Somusen 4.5 4.5 out of 5 stars (57) Oil Pump Pickup Tube Brace/Girdle Compatible with LS LS1 LS2 LS3 Engine 4.8 5.3 6.0L This is the tab i purchased after removing the bolt to remove the pump and used the other hole to mout it no grinding or anything
Handy video, others show dropping the pan, a huge job as it involves removing the differential as well. Very clever getting the pick-up tube on, am going to use this method on my 2000 4.8, thanks. Jim
I disagree with the way this guy does stuff if you're watching this video make sure you watch other videos to see where mistakes are made on this one so you do not screw up your motor.
Yup. 1 yr later and you're still helping people out. Diving into my 08escaladeESV awd this weekend. Just prob gonna add the chain & water pump as well. Thank you !
@777trader8 your suppost to remove the oil pan and not finagal anything or pry on anything. O ring can easily get messed up. Also shouldn't be grinding on the tab while the oil pan is directly under it . That *gasket* didn't come with his kit is the whole oilpan gasket he's referring to ... even harder for u and me cause we got awd escalade so in order to remove the pan we have to drop the front differential to get the pan off. Do it right don't try to skip steps your already there. . Also use a new crank shaft balancer bolt .
@@777trader8also tourque everything correctly or it'll leak a year or 2 later I assure you !!! The hot and cold back and forth will expand and shrink the seals then u got winter and summer doing it to . It will leak .