Great video! One suggestion for viewers, ensure that the pipe has a slight angle so the frost free valve has the ability to work per design by letting water drain out of pipe. If the pipe is angled upwards the water will freeze towards the back end of pipe, hence cracking the pipe exactly like the video showed. Cheers!
@@blakewy1 I disagree that he failed. This is exactly what I needed to see. Thank you Lfitkhar Khan! P.S. Blake Yeo, whether your right or your wrong, don't be a douche.
You should have removed the stem first, taken it to hardware store so you could replace it with the same length. It looked funny sticking of if the wall.
I like your video but it is very important to understand the setup different homes have on outside spigots. Yours is a frost free sillcock. Obviously it was threaded into the house water pipe. It CAN NOT be assumed that every home owner has the same setup. Some may have their sillcock soldered in place or the sillcock to pipe thread my be corroded together. In all cases it is better to know what you have.My home has CPVC piping so I knew there was a fitting that needed to be held while I removed the sillcock. i.e. I excised a small hole in the sheet rock of my garage so that I could see the connection. Had I decided to use a pipe wrench to unscrew the sillcock I would have shattered the fitting. Even with the other end being held in place I believe you applied too much force to seat your sillcock. I know you were trying to help. I hope you know that I too am trying. Take care.
Thanks for the video. It may not have been perfect, but thanks for taking the time to try to help others. Rude commenters need to create their own video.
Indeed not perfect but helpful. Rude commenters are mostly smart asses and some didn't even know what they were talking about. For example there was a criticism about the new faucet sticking out too far, by about 1 1/2". Frost proof faucets come in 2" length increments and this is the best he could do, or the new faucet would not be able to reach the inside.
There were comments about problem with "sweat on" faucet. I am not certain if sweat on outdoor (aka frost free) faucet even existed. If they do exist it would be very difficult, if not impossible to replace unless you are the lucky few with inside access to the plumbing behind the wall. I worked on houses as old as 1963 and the outdoor faucets are frost free and NOT sweat on.
Don't do this unless you know it's NOT soldered on the inside. If you do, you'll twist your pipe in two and will have to keep your water shut off throughout the house until it is repaired. I wouldn't recommend twisting this off unless you know it is twisted on!
It was funny, in this cold weather our outdoor faucet froze and burst and water was gushing out, SO I called a couple of plumbers, and they had to repair it out in the freezing 20 degree weather, in the DARK, b/c it was night, plus it was RAINING cold freezing rain on them as they worked, and to top it off, and to top it off, there was a faulty place in our gutter right over the exact spot they were having to work, so literally GALLONS of cold freezing water was pouring down on top of them has they were working. I mean imagine having to work under the conditions of it being 20 degrees outside, DARK, cold rain on you, and on top of that being under a waterfall of GALLONS of freezing water constantly gushing down on you as you're working. I dunno I just thought it was a little bit funny :/ They didn't though.
Please help; When I tried to remove my old faucet (parts are now obsolete) with the wrench it just twisted and split the copper pipe that it goes into. Now its ruined. I cant turn water on or it pours out the brick wall space between bricks. What do I do. Looking at the pipe from inside - its copper and I cant see where it attaches to faucet
At my house it's not so easy. On the inside, behind the basement access panel, the silcock is connected, via a brass fitting, to the PVC pipe. The fitting is too wide to pull out with the silcock, so I have to do a lot more work than is show in 3:20. I recommend to others that they look at a longer video.
Wrong on so many frts. Original piping is usually soldered to inside line, so wrenching off from outside will just snap your copper line. #2. You never leave a 1 inch gap between faucet and mtg surface. You can fill void with and inch of plumbers putty, but besides looking like your child repaired it, that much putty becomes dry and brittle, plus it is not anchored property to the house.
So how do you know that you don't damage anything where it connects. I have the same setup where it goes into the brick/masonry and connects somewhere in the drywall (no basement here). If I just go turning to remove it and then replace it and tighten it back down, how do I know that I don't loosen a sodered joint? How do I know that I am not overtightening? How do I know that I don't have a leak way back in there? The one installed on my home was like this where it was the incorrect length and now it sticks out too far from the wall. I want to make it the correct length and mount it to the wall. I guess, I am going to cut into the drywall to make sure I disconnect it correctly and check for leaks. Last thing I would want is the drywall filling with water because something got loose in there.
My apologies. I reread your post now, and I see that you said "the video helped you" and not "this worked for you". I just wanted to get an opinion from somebody else that tried this. Obviously the author didn't go into these details, and we don't know if his leaked or not.
Title, HOW TO REPLACE OUTSIDE FAUCET, it's the one thing that's needs to be replace more with, IM NOT GOING TO SHOW YOU HOW TO REPLACE AN OUTSIDE FAUCET.
how I supposed to know to get it out? you didn't show show how to get it out you can't just don't show that part someone need know how to take it out too.
You got the pipe too long. Either buy the correct length or cut and rethread the pipe so it won't stick out three inches pat your wall, which is a good way to have it broken off or frozen.
Frost proof faucets come in 2" length increments. He has the option of being 1 1/2" too long and 1/2" too short. The former works and the latter does not.
It was funny, in this cold weather our outdoor faucet froze and burst and water was gushing out, SO I called a couple of plumbers, and they had to repair it out in the freezing 20 degree weather, in the DARK, b/c it was night, plus it was RAINING cold freezing rain on them as they worked, and to top it off, and to top it off, there was a faulty place in our gutter right over the exact spot they were having to work, so literally GALLONS of cold freezing water was pouring down on top of them has they were working. I mean imagine having to work under the conditions of it being 20 degrees outside, DARK, cold rain on you, and on top of that being under a waterfall of GALLONS of freezing water constantly gushing down on you as you're working. I dunno I just thought it was a little bit funny :/ They didn't though.
this would be more helpful if you cut out all the talk and just show us how to remove and replace it. The video cut a lot of the steps out. For example i am not sure what you did to remove the faucet. Most of watching here at DIY weekend worriers so every step is important.
oh, that part was entitled 'then a miracle occurs'. Worthless video and dangerous too if you don't have a threaded pipe - if it's sweated on then you'll be enjoying paying a bag of money for a plumber to come out and fix your twisted broken copper.
Ditto. I can't find a video in which one deals with a connection to copper pipe inside a wall and you don't know if it's threaded or sweated to it. I have a Woodford 14 and there's no way of knowing how it's connected. Even if it's threaded I'm not risking unscrewing it without a wrench on the supply pipe. I guess I'll either have to remove the siding and sheathing on the outside or wallboard on the inside.
