Question, my Camper will run off the Box at Campground. But only my fridge and plug-in works. I’ve replaced my battery. And my lights and air conditioner everything worked. But only for few months. Till I having keep recharging my battery. Would you say it’s the Converter I need to replace. I haven’t heard fan almost since it started not working. I own a 2007 Four Winds 36ft pull camper. Does it matter what kind of converter I buy. Camper runs off 110volt on the box. And advice I would appreciate it
Hello, great videos. Just wondering if you could provide more details about connecting the DCC to the converter. Are you placing it between the batteries and shore power to properly charge the lithium batteries? I want to do something similar but I'm not sure how to connect it. Thanks!
Hi Mario, unless you plan on hooking up solar panels, you'd be better off just sticking to a standard WFCO. Otherwise, if you're interested in hooking up everything, please check out our other two videos that include detailed wiring instructions and a diagram: bit.ly/har-lithium-install , bit.ly/har-solar-wiring , and bit.ly/har-solar-install
@@HomeARoam - Thanks for the links. I do plan on adding solar to the camper. I'm trying to account for the shore power charging at this point and wanted to avoid a converter upgrade if it was needed. I don't think that I would need the DCC to charge my batteries while driving but it's a nice to have for shore power/solar charging because it's a single device. Thanks again!
Hi Jerry, if we didn't have the Renogy DCC50 (which already has a charge controller) then that would have been necessary. The raw converter (which costs about 1/2 as much as a full converter with lithium charge controller) just feeds raw voltage to the DCC the same way a vehicle alternator would. Then the DCC controls that current to the appropriate charge profile. Hopefully that makes sense. 😀
Good question! No, our setup is a bit different. Since we already have the Renogy charge controller, I actually used what is basically just a power supply and then ran it to the charge controller that actually charges the batteries. If you don't have an appropriate charge controller already then yes, something like the WFCO would be the right choice.
