How to Replace the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor on Dodge Dakota and Durango 

TortureBot It really is easy. If I can do it, anyone can.

Clint Holland Well I did it, following your directions. I did have to remove the plastic intake air duct to get decent clearance for my ratchet, and extension. It was causing the alignment with the sensor to be off slightly, and I didn't want to break the old sensor. I could also get to it like you did in the vid with no extension, but I only had like a couple of inches to apply some torque, and I felt better using an extension. Also, the old one was torqued down pretty darned tight and the engine was still a bit warm. In the end it was still an easy replacement. My sensor (Duralast from Autozone) had thread compound applied from the factory, so I didn't use the teflon tape, although I had a roll handy. Bad thing is, the old sensor must have been ok. The situation has not been altered at all. I also used a multi-meter on the new sensor before install and then later on the old one to measure their resistance values in a 73 degree room (after they acclimated). They were very close. New one read 10.85 K-Ohm old one read 11 K-Ohm. Starting to suspect my radiator now.

@@TortureBot hey any update? what did you end up having to do to fix it? im having the same issue.

and jon if I remember correctly not long after this I went ahead and bought a new radiator. I installed it myself which took most of a day in sweltering heat, but it turned out great. It ran like a champ for a few months and the temperatures were like they originally were when the vehicle was new. Unfortunately the overheating began again, and I ended up doing a test on the cooling system with one of those kits where you use fluid that changes color if there are combustion gases getting into the cooling system. I confirmed that there were indeed combustion gases getting in there, so that meant my head gaskets were leaking. It wasn't terrible, but it was enough to cause the overheating issues. I took it to a mechanic and explained the problem, and without even working on it he told me he would either buy a used engine or use Blue Devil head gasket sealant. I thought this was strange, since I was trying to give him my business and get him to change the head gaskets out. I did try the Blue Devil, and it is a lengthy process to do all the draining and refilling of the radiator to use it properly, but it did work. Unfortunately the problem came back after a few months again, and I repeated the Blue Devil treatment. It worked again for a few months. Then the problem came back. The particular type of Blue Devil I used is not the quick use type that you can just pour in, this is the more expensive which requires draining and refilling. It cost about $75 each time to buy it. Well, in the end, I ended up having to take it to a good engine shop near my house. After they kept it a day or two and investigated thoroughly, they said at the moment my head gaskets weren't leaking, but the Blue Devil had sealed up so much of my radiator and the rest of the cooling passages in the engine that it was not flowing properly. I was worried about that, because I had heard horror stories. The only reason I agreed to do it was because the man who recommended it was a very well-known mechanic with a good reputation, and my father-in-law told me he could be trusted. I finally got the engine shop near my house to just go ahead and pull the heads and shave them down since they were warped. While they were in there they did a valve job, a new timing chain, and pretty much replaced my entire cooling system which was gummed up including my heater core. After all that was done including replacing the brand new radiator I had put in a few months earlier because of the gunk, I was out $4,000. The good news is I have driven it for about a year and a half and they did excellent work! No problems whatsoever, my cooling system works like the vehicle was brand new. I also have excellent heat when it is cold due to the new heater core and everything. Unfortunately, I think the best thing to do when a person has these recurring cooling issues is to either buy or check out one of the kits to test your cooling system for combustion gases from a place like Autozone. It's easy to use, and it will confirm if those gases are getting in. Hope you don't have to spend as much as I did, but I will tell you I weighed my options and this seems better than buying another used car that I wasn't familiar with for a similar price to these repairs, or beginning the long process of making a payment on a new vehicle. If you consider the savings in insurance I have had keeping this vehicle since I only have to have liability and the savings making monthly payments on a new car, I think I have earned the $4000 back just within the first year of driving the vehicle after the repairs. Good luck!

@@TortureBot thanks so much for the info. Very helpful.

It's not supposed to so yes, yours is probably broken.

Not a lot honestly. Usually the main symptom is that your temperature gauge won't move as your vehicle heats up. This can cause other symptoms like poor fuel economy but your gauge not moving is usually the main one.

Would it cause the engine to crank but not start after driving a bit,than after cooling for a while it starts up..? Could this be the issue of no start unless waiting 30 45min after parking? Thanks

@@JA-bx1sh im haveing the same issue did this fix it

I can be driving normal, then my temp gauge spikes in the red suddenly and then settles slowly to normal again. There is no sign of actually overheating. I get code P0117. How can I test if it is the wiring or actually the sensor?

@@JA-bx1sh yes this happened on my 90 d150

Are you sure the vehicle isn't running hot?

Clint Holland well the gauge is at normal level its just the light comes on and off on when im driving and i have enough coolant and i replaced the temperature sensor so do you think maybe the thermostat?

@@christianmaldonado9068 This is my opinion. Get yourself an OBD2 reader that will show live data. You can pick a bluetooth one up on Amazon for $20 that will show you on your phone live data. Use that to read the actual coolant temperature when the light comes on to see if it is in fact running hot or if it's a false alarm.

In general there are 2 ways. First, the easy way. This sensor is cheap and easy to replace so you could just replace it as a test. Some refer to this as the John Deere method but that is another story. The technically correct way is to find the specs of the sensor online and test it with a multimeter. Its resistance varies with temperature and you can verify this with a $10 multimeter.

@@ClintHolland I take it scan and the guy say its not a sensor problem, so I take it clean the radiator and looks like it was the problem, I tested and it wont gets hot

Doubtful this would be the issue. When you say trouble starting, can you explain that a little more? Is the starter turning the engine over ok but it just doesn't seem to start or what exactly? And how many miles do you have on it?

Clint Holland I have 200k and the engine starts but it doesn’t stay on. Kind of like if it didn’t have enough fuel. In the mornings it starts right up. And when it’s cool. But when it’s still at Operating temp and turn it off for a couple mins. It might start weak and I have to rev it. Or sometimes it starts and slowly dies after a couple seconds. I thought it was this because someone said it might be sending too much fuel. If the sensor was bad and thought the truck was cold it would send more fuel that needed. But I kind of think I don’t have enough fuel.

Clint Holland I really appreciate the reply. Thanks a lot. I’m sorry for not checking before. I hope you still see this and reply.

@@panchitoloco7347 So the problem you describe is not common but also not rare. I would definitely focus my efforts on the fuel injection system. There is a good chance there is problem with the injectors bleeding off fuel pressure when the engine is hot and basically causing the engine to be flooded. I would start there. Might need to have a mechanic pressure test the FI system to see if this is the issue.

Almost certainly not. If you are boiling coolant then your engine is actually running hot. Have you made sure you have enough coolant and checked anything else like the thermostat and radiator cap?

It sure does. Practically all vehicles have one as it is what drives the temperature gauge in the dash.

What model Dodge do you have?

Definitely. It may not be overheating but your Engine Computer users that temperature for other adjustments. It could even affect your gas mileage.

+michaelheiland123654 I have. It's actually very easy. Mine was a little stuck but I was able to work it out but it's real easy to get to. Do you know where it's located?

Clint Holland the tool to get the map sensor bolt is hard.

Will a bad cts cause stalling?

If it only happens when it's idling I would check the fan and fan clutch. Pretty easy to replace if it is.

Rev got to go cooper

+Brittany Miller I may be wrong, but I don't think it's the same.

There are many symptoms that a failed engine coolant temperature sensor can cause. While not all of them, the 3 most common ones are: 1. Poor gas mileage 2. Engine overheating 3. Black smoke Is there a reason you suspect yours might be failing?

overheating

juss in the street not in the freeway

If it's overheating on the street and not the freeway I would suspect the fan. The fan is what keeps air flowing when you aren't going fast enough to transfer heat away from the radiator. Have you checked the fan?

2009 dodge ram 1500 4.7litre coolant temperature sensor position

I always disconnect the negative terminal.

I assume you aren't experiencing any symptoms? Have you verified your coolant isn't low? What you may need is a OBD2 reader, they are about $20, to monitor the temperature when the light comes on to see if it legitimate or not.

@@ClintHolland OBD2 ???I buy it and I have to do the test my self???is that easy???I can find other problemswith the obd???

@@HugoHernandez-oh1vd They are super easy to use. You plug them in underneath your dash and they give you either a code you look up online or a text description of the issue. But the real use is to use the realtime feature of them to see what your actual temperature reads to help in troubleshooting the gauge.