Just did this repair last night on a 2005 Odyssey. Took me about 2.5 hours, mostly because the flare nut is hard to access and work with and my pressure switch was stuck pretty firmly on the old hose. This video was a huge help, particularly by showing where the brackets are and suggestions for working with the flare nut. Thanks for posting!!
I just want to say good video. I did this yesterday on a 06 Honda odyssey touring. I couldn't find the individual 14 mm crows foot. So I bought a flare wrench which didn't help, the bolt was stuck on there good, I used degreaser but didn't help. So I just broke off the line by bending it back and forth and used a 14 mm socket with 3 inch extension and 3/8 drive to remove the bolt, I could have saved an hr. My hose had cracks all around were the metal fitting connects to the hose. Thanks again man.
Thanks Brian. This really helped me. I actually ended up cutting the metal tube just before the flare nut with a small tubing cutter and removing the nut with a deep 14 MM socket. I couldn't get it off the way you did...but this helped me in putting the new flare nut on. I was also able to reuse the Sensor (new one is way overpriced). Thanks again.
Thanks for the video. Key advice is the crowfoot on an extended ratchet to break loose the fitting at the rack. I used that, then a shorty 14mm crescent from above (my arms are long and skinny) to finish loosening, and most of the tightening on install. Other videos I saw have you removing the hoses and the air inlet above that fitting so you can reach a cheater bar down there. Also good advice I saw elsewhere is to remove the passenger side wheel to get more room to disconnect the pressure sensor.
Was going to make a video on the same model odyssey using the same part number. Now I don't have to, plus saves me the hassle of trying to figure it out myself, thanks!
Nice video. I have a 08 Pilot. The steering is not that light as other Pilots I drove. I changed the pump from 1A auto still nothing. Do you think that the high pressure hose can make the steering stiff even if not leaking?
this part is not that expensive from rockauto... definitely would not recommend using a USED part as a replacement especially given the difficulty of the job
Why on earth would you replace with a junkyard line,who know how it's been sitting in the sun the line is probably dry and cracked i got new one from ebay for 35 bucks shipped
I was wondering how much it would cost to get this done at a repair shop? I replaced the same one on my 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe and let me tell you it was very hard. I have a 2007 Odyssey that I think is leaking and might have to do, if I can bring to shop I would do. Any suggestions?
Follow up. Hard as hell to access. Had to cut the line. Bend off the stub end. Tap a socket onto the lines nut to break the connection. Getting the new hose in proper alignment to get the threads started was probably the most time consuming part. Not fun doing in 90+ degree heat sweating and having fluid drip on you.
I'm about to do this on a 2006 Honda Ridgeline. All the literature says to drop the block about 2 inches for clearance, do you know if that is actually necessary or can I get it passed through without doing so?
I just replaced the high-pressure power steering line on my Civic. After a few days I had a leak at the threaded nut that goes into the rack/pinion. Did I forget to tighten it? it's possible. Is it necessary to use teflon tape or thread locker (blue/red) on the threaded nut? I tightened the nut again but if it comes loose then I will use red locktite.
Great video. So this looks fairly easy. I was told today that our mechanic is going to charge us $430 for this. UGH! Wish we had watched this before we sent it to the mechanic.
Tried this, the part that goes into the rack and pinion wouldn't crack loose, even with penetrating oil. Used the sockets for rounded nuts, still wouldn't grab hold and break loose. Now I am stuck with a rounded off nut and a not working vehicle and no idea what to do.
In that situation, I suggest cutting the hard line off near the rack and getting a socket on the nut. Irwin makes a really good set of sockets for rounded nuts. Sorry you're dealing with that. I've been there, it stinks.
I left a an inch of the cut line on the flare nut just in case this happened and had a last resort plan to cut and attach the new line with high psi hose and clamps to the nipple coming off flare nut. Thank God I was able to break free flare nut.
That flare nut was so seized on there it was a real bitch to get out. In fact, the only way I managed was by breaking off the line and then removing the nut with a socket instead of the crowsfoot.
yeah I have a good feeling mine is seized also. I tried for 7 hours which included running to get a crow foot 14mm. NO JOY ! Since I am currently on 1 car with another car at the paint shop I cannot commit myself to cutting anything. Glad you did Troll ...
Mark Livingstone Just break it off, man. No use fighting with it for so long. I spent maybe 1/2 hr on it and after getting nowhere I figured it's the bad part anyway and I just twisted off the line so I could use a better tool to get the damn thing out. Smooth sailing afterwards.
I don't understand why buy the hose of amazon? When you can buy it local for a lot cheaper and lifetime warranty!!! If its a shop and you're getting paid buy amazon, i guess.
How to Automotive I just see a lot of DIY videos have amazon website, when I have noticed that eBay is way cheaper but auto parts should always be purchased local because of the lifetime warranty.
