It's great; it is "all business" and shows you what needs to be done. Why discourage someone from making a video like this? You can't expect a professional video for every possible repair on every possible make and model car, and this is exactly what i needed. Thanks for making it!
this process is the same for 1996 dodge caravan 3.3/3.8 l, in replacing the power steering pump, so far it is the best video tutorial , don't complain about it, he is working in the snow, cold, on the floor, he finish the job. great video.
Anyone complaining about the camera angle obviously has never tried to record themselves while fixing something😂 you did great and this video is perfect for an at-home mechanic
Nice video. This took some of the guess work out of my project. Thanks! I changed a PS pump on my 2000 Town and Country 3.8L yesterday. I did modify one thing though. I found that after I removed the bracket that holds the pump on and removed it, I was able to removed a bracket that holds the brake line to the frame. By doing this and by moving the brake line slightly to the left, I avoided having to take off the harmonic pulley (crankshaft pulley). I had enough room to pull the old pump right out. This may be due to the fact it was a Chrysler. Ps. I give you a lot of credit... working on a car in the dead of winter.... I remember those days! Great job! :)
Many thanks, very helpful video. Changed out my rusting / leaking power steering pump today and this video helped. Great hints to where all those hiding 15mm bolts are. Did not want to try pulling the axle or deal with the rusted up cat converter/exhaust.. so tried the 'thru the wheel well' method shown in the video. Only item I did not need to do was pulling off the crankshaft pulley, I was able to rotate the PS pump thru the wheel well opening with the crankshaft pulley still on. I did remove the 1 bolt for brake line in the well opening, so I could slightly move the metal brake line while rotating the PS pump out. This for a 2000 Chrysler Voyager SE w/ a 3.3 Flex Fuel engine. Had to put new pulley on as old one cracked when I tried to remover, so for $50 got re-built PS pump at Auto Parts store and $13 for new pulley, and qt of PS fluid... and then spent pretty much the entire day getting old one out, pulley install and then getting new one back in.... at least no snow on the ground.
Huge help, thanks for posting this; a couple points I discovered that may help others: 1) The lowermost bolt that holds the pump to the bracket is recessed a hair deeper than the other two (it's actually that the bracket has a thicker "ridge" there, but the result is the same); this gives you just a little bit less of the bolt head to get a wrench on, which for me was just enough to keep me from getting a good "bite" without rounding the corners off. I ended up using the serp-belt tool with its shallow-well 15mm socket to get the bolt free, it's just squatty enough to fit under the pulley and it gives you plenty of torque to loosen the bolt easily. I'm mentioning this because you actually don't NEED this tool to get the belt off (though it makes it easier), but you may want to have it handy anyway in case you run into this problem (I had to stop mid-job to get a loaner from the auto parts store). An offset obstruction wrench might also do the trick. 2) You can avoid removing the crank pulley if you remove the power steering pump pulley once the pump is loose (but still "trapped" behind the engine); you actually have a fair bit of room to position the pump for easy access from below with the puller / installer tool. If you're replacing with a complete salvage unit like in the video this doesn't buy you anything, but if you have a reman unit from an auto parts store that doesn't come with a pulley, you'll have to swap the pulley over (or install a new one) anyway. You do need the special tool to remove it if you plan to reuse it, it's plastic and a regular gear puller will crack it right in half (the tool is another common loaner item at auto parts stores). Obviously, you'll also need to place the new pump between the engine and firewall BEFORE installing the pulley on it if you go this route (it's easier than it sounds, my crank bolt was heavily corroded and I didn't want to mess with it). 3) The fill tube that connects to the reservoir is routed between a wiring harness and a fuel line on the right strut tower; there's a mounting lug zip-tied to it that will tend to catch on the fuel line when you go to pull it down and out - be VERY careful not to yank too hard on that line while pulling the tube down, it's connected to a welded-on nipple on the fuel rail and if you break or crack that joint you're in for a major headache.
I wish I knew were one of you fellas were one the ones working on my van I’ve had 5 people all quit on me if any of you are any where near okaloosa county fl please comment this I need a real mechanic
This help me a lot out it was complicated I just did everything in my way I took his and I changed it a little easier for me now I got the power steering pump changed thank you so much on my first time changing it not bad at all
Other instructions say you need to disconnect the exhaust pipe from the manifold, and slide the pump out toward the rear, but removing the crank pulley and pulling the pump out the side, as seen here seems more direct and leaves more room to install it afterward. I'll be doing this job tomorrow. Thanks for the detailed video.
I heard that way after i did this process. I never thought about it and even if it came to my mind I wouldn't attempt to disconnect the exhaust. Good luck tomorrow
Optimized Different Install Procedure: 1. Access Pump, Pump Brackets & Bolts from Engine Bay Top by removing Intake Manifold. SIGNIFIGANTLY EASIER to Accomplish PS Pump for 4 Reasons: A. Access PS Pump from the top of the Engine Bay w/ Intake Manifold removed: A1. PS Pump Bracket Bolts @ Passenger Side between Passenger Chassis & Belt Brackets is 1000% easier to torque & hold the wrench from Top of Engine Bay. A2. PS Pump Bracket Bolt @ the Rear Exhaust Manifold Stud is 1000% easier with the Intake Manifold removed. From the Top of Engine Bay with Clear Visibility of the Rear Exhaust Manifold Stud that holds the PS Pump Bracket has to be removed/installed. A3. Removing, Lifting & Installing the Heavy PS Pump from the Engine Top is much easier than through the Narrow Wheel Well. A4. Torquing the PS Pump Hoses to the Pump from Engine Top w/ Intake Manifold removed is simple & visible. B. I reviewed this video & removed & installed my PS Pump through the Wheel Well as shown in this video. This was most difficult because of 4 Reasons: B1. Accesing & Torqueing the Bolts that hold the Pump to the Belt Brackets was very "Narrow & Inaccesible" through the Wheel Well, between the Passenger Chassis & Belt Brackets. B2. Accesing the Stud & Nut that holds the Rear Pump Bracket to the Exhaust Manifold from the Engine Bay Top around & behind the Intake Manifold, from underneath the Van or through the wheel well area. You cannot see this bolt very well or at all from any of these positions & it is most difficult to fit a wrench or turn the bolt. A3. Lifting the Heavy PS Pump from underneath through the Wheel Well was strenuous & difficult to align the Pump to the Bracket. A4. Torquing the PS Pump Hoses to the Pump through the Narrow Wheel Well or from Underneath. I have accomplished the PS Pump 2 ways: 1. Through the Wheel Well 2. From Engine Bay Top w/ Intake Manifold removed MOST SIGNIFIGANTLY EASIER to accomplish the PS Pump from the Engine Bay Top w/ the Intake Manifold removed. Notes Procedure PS Pump from the Top w/ Intake Manifold Removed: 1. Receipt & install new Intake Manifold Gaskets. 2. Option Replace O2 Sensor Upstream & Catalytic Converter Gasket on the Rear Exhaust Manifold 3. Option to Service Cylinder Heads, Gaskets, Valves, Springs, Rods & Piston Rings. With the Intake Manifold off, you might as well service the Cylinder Heads, Valve Train, Fuel Rail Hose, Injector O-Rings & Piston Rings. 3A. Although cannot do Crankshaft or Camshaft Bearings unless you can Drop the Trannsmission & Drop the Block, which is not as difficult as a DIY Mechanic would be so intimidated to try. With the Tranny out, Heads Off & Pistons removed, my Block was not so heavy and jacked it down & pulled it from the Wheel Well under the Caravan. 3B. Although the Camshaft Bearings require the Lisle 18000 Tool because the Camshaft Bearings are locked in the block & only accesible through the Camshaft itself, requiring that Tool. Note my camshaft bearings had to be replaced as they were signifigantly fractured @ 200,000 miles, worse than any other Bearing in the Tranny or Engine. 4. Option Replace Rusted Bolts on the Rear Exhaust Manifold & Catalytic Converter 4A. CAUTION!!! Exhaust Manifold Bolts can BREAK OFF INSIDE THE CYLINDER HEAD! For this reason the Bolts should be replaced every 100,000 miles! If the Exhaust Manifold Bolts are 200,000 miles old then you must have a BOLT BREAKING PROCEDURE if you are going to replace the Exhaust Manifold Bolts! Reason if they break off inside the Cylinder Head! Futhermore if you replace these bolts I suggest you receipt "Quality 10.9 Bolts" from Fastenal or OEM Chrysler. Do not replace with Oreillys Stuff, reason they are not as strong & will risk breaking the bolts in the future so you want to get the Quality 10.9 stuff from Fastenal. 4B BOLT BREAKING PROCEDURE @ EXHAUST MANIFOLD: 4B1. Oxy Acetelyne Torch the Exhaust Manifold to Expand the Metal. Heat the Metal around the Bolt, not the Bolt. 4B2. Turn the Bolt carefully after Torching the Manifold & Do not use an Impact Driver which could break the Bolt off inside the Cylinder Head. 4B3. If the Bolt breaks off inside the Cylinder Head: 4B4A. Option to "Remove the Cylinder Head" 4B4B. Option to "Weld a Nut" on the Broken Bolt, Oxy Torch Expand Metal Procedure & remove bolt 4B4C. Option to Tap & Coil the Cylinder Head where the Exhaust Manifold Bolt broke off inside 4B4D. Option to bring Cylinder Head to Shop & have shop remove broken bolt, Weld or Tap & Coil. 3B3E. Option to receipt New Cylinder Head Overall, I am a DIY Novice Mechanic & I bought a 200,000 mile Caravan with the philosophy of being able to repair it anywhere in the USA at any Autoparts store or any Junkyard. Expect to rebuild the Caravan after 200,000. My transmission failed at 202,000. I dropped & installed the Tranny 4 - 10 times at 3 different junkyards from 4 different Junkyard Caravans in 3 months time. Finally got a good Transmission from a Clean Body Damaged Caravan with about 140,000 miles & drove it 10,000 miles to current. Since then I rebuilt a spare transmission I expect it to be good for another 200,000. Alot of things failed in my 200,000 mile caravan. 1. Power Steering Pump & High Pressure Line Leaking 2. Fuel Pump 3. TPS, IAC 4. Transmission I couldn't have repaired it without the OBD or RU-vid Tutorials. In California its Unfairly illegal for Oreillys/Autozone to do the OBD for you because of some ripoff "California Mechanics Union Law" that banned the OBD Service from Oreillys. Although some California Autozones have a "Legal Workaround OBD" system for your check light.
I have the same model and I wish you showed how you got the nut on the back side of the alternator bottom bolt, when you remove the bolt which was easy the nut just falls down,.... there is no room to get a wrench in there, I used a coat hanger macgyver technic just to get the bolt threading on the nut but how to keep it from spinning when tightening will be my next trick
I tried this earlier this year but not the way you did it. Looks a lot better. Had a shop replace it and they did a crappy job so now it's back to square one with me doing it myself. Wish I had of saw your video earlier. I'm gonna try it!Thanks
Nice video! I wear nitrile rubber gloves and mechanics gloves when working on my '99 Grand Voyager. Keeps the hands much cleaner. One suggestion: If you're going to go so fast without talking the viewer through the process, add the music for Yakety Sax to it. (Yes, that is how it's spelled.) ;)
Thx. My friend suggested removing axle, Im no way. I removed the pulley off the pump first hoping it would come out, but it didn't. Thanks for showing me that by removing the LOWER ALT BOLT and TENSION BOLT the bracket will come out. I think that will give me all the room I need.
Good video couple mistakes pulley for crank could come up first serpentine pulley doesn’t have to come apart. Comes off as one unit. Best video overall. I’m on my 99 grand caravan.
Alternatively, you can take the exhaust loose at the catalytic converter input, pull it all back, and take the pump out that way. It takes a little more "wiggling" with the pump (hint: rotate the pump in the hole so the pulley comes out last), but it's a lot less parts to remove/lose/damage. Be sure to flush and clean the reservoir (the filter in the bottom gets filthy) and flush the old fluid from the system before refilling and bleeding the system or it will still be noisy and hard to steer.
Just an observation. If you're going to remove the crankshaft pulley anyway you might as well remove it before working on the other parts so you have more room to work and swing the wrenches. I would also change the crankshaft seal while you're at it since it'll be right there except for older models equipped with the 3.0L.
+Inokea good observation but i wasn't planning on removing it, I wanted to see if i could take the pump out without removing the pulley and to remove the seal there in this case you have to take a lot of things out.
+Fritz Madness Actually I wasn't really telling you since you already completed the work but was just hoping to help someone that might follow this procedure. Good job and good alternative way to do it.
The best way to replace this pump is to remove the pulley after you unbolt it from the bracket with the special tool that is required making sure not to jam the pulley up between the bracket and the engine as you're doing it then you can remove it through the bracket and the frame area but you must remove the front axle on that side to do this otherwise you're supposed to pull the exhaust and move the catalytic converter and header pipe over to the left as far as possible you can do it by removing the entire bracket but that's a lot more work this is definitely a job for highly skilled technician
Fritz Madness actually I had to have somebody else rescue me because I had some kind of a shade tree mechanic try to fix it and totally jacked it up I had to have it towed to a legitimate place a business only to find out they totally jacked me for $1,036 just to get my van legal. I will never make the same mistake twice.
The worst part of this job is the lower alternator bolt (on mine, the rear nut spins. If the bolt went into a threaded housing flange it would have been MUCH easier) and the upper cast aluminum power steering bracket bolt that is directionally aligned front to rear with the vehicle. Both are near impossible to get to and both are hard to turn so it takes a while. I had to remove the upper alternator bracket to get to it. It took me about 35 minutes just to fully back that bolt out and it's in a very tight spot so your arm will fatigue a lot. I might try to squeeze a 1/4 drive socket wrench in there putting it back on but it's 15mm so kinda big for 1/4 drive sockets. The rest of it is just your usual PITA auto repair. You do not have to remove the fluid reservoir....just pull the hose off at the pump. Save 5 minutes
Wow - you did this in ice and snow. I'm in the middle of it on a warm Floriday (at the start of February), and it's a royal pain. I have the 2000 DGC 3.3L, nothing like my old V8 motors where everything's up front. It's also nothing like what they say in the Haynes manual. I didn't think you had to remove the tensioner pulley, which I did, or the alternator, which I did, and the plate that holds these two pieces on, which I did. Instead, they said to remove the catalytic converter, I assume, to get the pump out the back, instead of through the wheel well. It might have been easier, for what I'm seeing. I still don't have the pump out. Just stopped in to see if I'[m doing this right. This is the way I'm doing it, so I can't be far off. I think the mount bracket has to come out, but you don't mention taking it out, so maybe the pump will come out without having to do that - I'll try. Also, there is a nut on the back of the lower alternator bolt, which I can't get to, so that's a problem. Thanks for the video!
+Robert Mertens I had to undo the top alternator bolt as well to access the nut on the lower bolt, the alt will pivot back far enough to let you get at it.
+Scott Smith I can't think of anything on that plate that wasn't undone. I had the plate out and in my hand (in order to get the bracket out). It's done now, but what a mess. I spent five days on this, mostly getting the new pulley on. I went through three pulleys, and still didn't have it flush with the surface when I was done. I even took it to a mechanic and he could only get the pulley halfway on - thanks to Advance Auto and mismatched parts. Eventually, I put the pump in the freezer overnight and put some propane on the pulley i the morning, and got it within 60 thousandths. And now, the new pump makes noise, but it comes with a lifetime warranty, so I'm going to run it until it dies. The last two days, it got cold again. I don't know how you did it in that winter weather - I saw you didn't even wear gloves.
Not that anybody still has a first (1984 - 1990) or second (1991 - 1995) generation Chrysler minivan, but if you do, you can avoid removing the bracket and the crank pulley. I pushed my pump to the rear of the sub-frame in front of the firewall and it dropped out. Wouldn't this work in a third, fourth, or fifth generation van?
I just replaced my alternator on my 2000 Caravan and was curious how easy the PSP was to get to from the alternator opening when it's out? I didn't' pay much attention to the PSP when I was replacing my alternator.. Thanks!
Make your life easy. Remove the Alternator and Harmonic Balancer first thing. It will make it so much easier to work on. There is no need to remove the fill vessel. Also, with the Alternator out, you can get at the rear spark plugs for replacement
@@FritzMadness I just did this, and mine is a 1998 3.8L Grand Caravan. Once the Alternator is out, then you can get to all the pump hoses and hard to get at bolts.
Hey Fritz. Thank you for taking the time to make a great video. I have a question and wondered what you think. I just need to change the power steering pulley on my 2000 Caravan as it's damaged. Do you think there's enough room for me to remove & replace just the pulley without removing the whole pump? Thanks again.
I have to do this now :-( Fortunately, I live where it never snows and usually in January February the days are in the mid to upper 70's Factory Service Manual says remove the Exhaust system. THAT is something I want to avoid. If this procedure works for me I'll be grateful to you. Working on the ground....snow and ice all around......the wind whipping about..... Man, I don't envy what you must have gone through. The metal was right at 32 degrees. Could it have waited until spring or summer?
I have to replace a leaking P/S pump, belt tensioner too. If I also move the alternator out of the way, do you think I can get to the pump and its support bracket from above without pulling the crank pulley?
@@FritzMadness I've replaced the alternator before and it isn't hard getting it free from the bolts. Might only have to push it a little toward the driver's side. I've replaced the tensioner from underneath the back of the engine, and maybe could do it from the top with the alternator moved. I have to replace it because the belt is squeaking and running over the edge of the pulley.
@@jamesmskipper I myself replaced the alt also and yes It gives room but never tried to pull the Pump but i am sure with the bracket off then you got room to pull the pump out. Let me know how it works.
@@FritzMadness Ok. I'm not sure when I'll get to it though - I've already put it off about a year. It's my back. I'll need to subscribe and save your channel. I also have a channel with some repair videos.
I'm putting the new pump back in, and I'm having a really hard time getting the bolt holes on the bracket lined up with the pump.... Any tips? I'm pretty sure I have the pump the right way because the reservoir line is coming straight up out of the top
Yes I know, It takes time to line them up, it took me awhile because there no much room to work around but what i always do I try hand start 1 bolt first and keep going with the next one. if it doesn't work it might not be the right pump but i doubt it. Let me know how it goes.
I just changed my power steering pump in my 99 T&C. I'm getting a loud humming sound sometimes it makes the noise after driving for a while other times as soon as I start the van. Also as I'm reversing out the driveway, as soon as I put it in Drive the wheel locks up for a few seconds then I'm able to turn it. Any ideas....???? Please help
+DjGuyFox242 We would normally assume that you put new fluid in after changing it out. You may have to run it a few seconds and put more fluid in. Sure hope the new one didn't break.
I guess you can rebuild it, you might have to get your pump out and see if you can open it with regular tools and put it back together the same as factory or it would be a no point for you to rebuild it. I paid $30 for used pump and pulley and I don't have any leakage so far. That's a lot better than paying small fortune to a mechanic.
if the belt is running off the side of it. what causes that? i seen a lady ask ya about it, but cannot read spanish. could u translate to english please
Usually water does that to me, check the belt route as well. Also make sure the belt groove fit perfectly with the grooves in the pulley itself and lastly make sure the belt has no grease and the tension is right.
Recently I replaced the rack and pinion, got the new one from autozone, to remove feeding lines were a pain in the ass, but now I got a bigger fluis leak than it has before. Can you tell me, in the rack itself, what threaded hole is for pressure line and wich one is the return line? I think I messed up reversing lines. Nice vid by the way..
juandrf as far as I am concerned they have different fitting so couldn't messed it up what I am thinking is that you didn't put the seal/gasket back on.
well, guess what the problem was? the new rack from autozone was defective, as one of the lines was loose. One more day to remove the whole thing and then tight the screw line, then put it back.
La mecanica la se en ingles pero no en espanol pero ya entendi lo que dices, sabes que puede ser que lo hallas puesto mal, fijate el routing de el belt que esta en el frame por donde se cierra el hood, si no es eso es la tension asegurate de que la belt encaje bien en los pulleys que tienen grooves, si no es ninguno de esos entonces no podria ayudarte pero eso a mi me pasa cuando le cae agua o grasa asegurate de que todo este seco especialmente los pulleys que son lisos espero que te ayude amigo! gracias por ver el video
Oh my goodness! where are your jack stands dude!..........you put a lot of faith in your jack!............all it takes is one second and the entire weight of the front end is crushing down on your chest...............I'll continue watching now, whew! you scare me to death!
Joe's Garage yeah man, tell me about it, mine is leaking somewhere right now and I hope it’s just the hose because I don’t feel like replacing that pump haha not with that Canadian weather anyways 🥶🇨🇦
@@FritzMadness the hose is only marginally easier than the pump. The racks close proximity to the firewall makes it quite difficult to get any sort of wrench on the fittings.
the boat on the bottom of the alternator to be able to get that break it off right above the tension pulley bolt at the bottom of the alternator is just free spinning after I loosened it is there a bolt behind it that I need to put another wrench on?
I know, I thought about going that way but I changed the axle seal not long ago and I didn't wanna go through that process again so I decided to go different way to change the pump which it was fun too.
It might work, I replaced the alternator not long ago and it was difficult to come out from the top and more difficult to put it back on and align the holes, specially the lower bolt.
just go under the van locate the bolt for the tensioner and use those swivel adapters and with the 15MM socket and extension and use an impact wrench. I replaced the tensioner like that not long ago.
i have a 96 dodge caravan when i get under it to find the leak i see fluid dripping from the pulley shaft when the van isnt even running is their a hose on top of the pump that would cause it to look like its coming from the pulley
From 2:47-2:50 is the end of the "Remove the power steering pump hoses" and you touch the hose on the back with the screw clamp on it. But you don't show how you removed it. I have completely loosened the screw clamp, but I am having great difficulty separating the rubber line from the nipple by trying to pull it off (it's very difficult to get my hands in there and get any strength to pull it off). I can't tell what tool you are using to help you at 2:49. Any suggestions?
+Fritz Madness I am going to try to disconnect the hose at the other end (where it connects to the the rack?). I bought a 2 ft replacement line that is supposed to be cut to 15 inches. I already kind of shredded the end a bit.
I used the open end of a box wrench (14mm?) that was just larger than the end stop of the nipple and wedged it up against a structural piece of the van underneath. I was then able to put both hands on the little L piece coming out the back of the pump and pull for all I was worth--lost some knuckle skin, but the victory cry could be heard in the next county \o/ . What the video didn't show was how you put the harmonic balancer (crankshaft pulley) back on! None of the aftermarket rental kits designed to re-attach it come with the correct M10x1.5 adapter. One guy mentioned using a block of wood and a mallet to get it started, then to stack a bunch of washers on there and use the crankshaft pulley screw to push it back on flush. What did you do and how?
Damn, You said the same shit that was saying. He needs to be honest when uploading important information like this. I got started and now I need a mechanic. FUCKING SHIT man. I'm gonna put this shit back together and find some real help. Be Cool ...
@flow8252 I just changed the power steering pump and pressure hose on my 2003 Dodge caravan and it was a real pain in the ass to do. But I got it done with hand tools, socket wrenches, crow's foot wrenches, torque wrench and other hand tools.
sometimes when i drive my steering wheel gets stuck for about 5 secs..very dangerous..Cant turn the wheel ,I wonder is this has something to do with it? this only happens when it rains..water must be getting into it
+Fritz Madness I think it an electric problem because when it happens I cant turn the wheel at all.Amd i heard a screech sound where the belt is..I'm going to kill myself in this thing
+toofine9 Assuming you have a Caravan like the one in the video, your power steering's not electric, but if you had a problem with your belt it could cause electrical symptoms too (battery light flicks on for a second or two, for instance) because the same belt also drives your alternator. The fact that it only acts up in the rain is a pretty strong clue to a slipping belt; it could just be worn out, they stretch as they age and there's a point where the automatic tensioner can't take up the slack anymore; the belt ends up just barely gripping under normal conditions, and water splashing on it acts as a lubricant and makes it slip. Severely worn belts get frayed and lose pieces of rubber, causing the same problem. It could also be that the tensioner is weak or seized up so it can't keep proper tension on the belt...there are lots of videos here on checking serpentine belts and tensioners, I would start there (just remember to NEVER let anything get near the belt while the engine's running! They're a lot stronger than they look, even a slipping one can take a finger in the blink of an eye). If those both check out then I would make sure excess water isn't getting diverted onto the belt / pulleys. Again, assuming you have a van like the one in the video, the lower splash shield (that Fritz removes at 0:37) is more important than it looks in keeping water and snow off the belt drive; if yours is broken or missing, repair or replace it. Lastly, there is cowl drain tube directly above the alternator pulley (you can see it disconnected while Fritz unbolts the alternator at 3:16, leaning against the strut tower); if this tube is broken our disconnected, half the water running down your windshield when it rains will get dumped right onto the belt. It's easily visible without unbolting anything, you just have to look under the cowl because it's tucked back a bit. There are theoretically other "oddball" issues that could be in play (a failing accessory bearing placing excess drag on the drive, for example), but these would generally cause additional problems...the stuff I mentioned above is far more likely.
Yeah very strange learning video for me bro. It’s like you’re on steroids lol. I’m sure you know a lot about fixing cars but a lot of us do not. Talking and taking your time when showing how to do something is more helpful at least for me it is. Any way thanks for the effort, if nothing else is out there I’ll use this.
Fritz Madness thanks man! Yeah I think I found a couple but I will use all three that I felt were of use and yours is one of them so thanks for sharing it.
+Erica King It won't come out the side with the crankshaft pulley in the way. Anyway, it gave me a chance to replace the crankshaft seal, and now my oil leak has gone away as well.
Came here to see how it was done and the video was in like hyper speed the whole time and you didn't say a word about what you were doing when you were doing it except for your limited instructions on screen… video was no help
davemaster001 I guess I don't, you might have to watch the video carefully because I did step by step and some of them are not needed to show. Thanks for your comment :)
Great vid but it was in high speed. Talking your audience through the process would have been helpful. You made it look 2 easy. Your hoses fell off, but mine are still stuck (All Day Long). I tried to use the video as a reference but I'll have to find a more realistic video. You Cheated. Sorry for the thumbs down.
took out the reservoir from the top. jacked up car, blocked it, pulled wheel well cover, took out the 3 bracket bolts. the pulley is hanging there. CAME IN n found YOUR video, it is THE BEST ONE. but why do i have to loosen the bottom alternator bolt?
